I have just returned after being to Changu Narayan temple, taken a shower and with a cup of coffee am writing about it. Earlier I had made a futile attempt to visit this temple, my driver got confused about the direction and we lost our way. Wish I had seen it at that time. The recent earthquake has damaged this ancient temple a lot.
The temple still stands tall and majestic supported on wooden planks, though the surrrounding building and reliefs have been badly destroyed by the earthquake of April 2015.
A 20 minute drive from Bhaktapur on the winding road up the hill of Dolagiri or Changu at 1541 meters and we see the first glimpse of the temple's pinnacle.
After buying the ticket, a small lane passing through Changu village, leads to the temple premises.
The beauty of temple mesmerizes you for a moment and you want to absorb everything at one go.
Built during the Licchavi kingdom in 3rd to 4th century it is a World Heritage listed site. Changu Narayan (चाँगु नारायण ) temple is the oldest temple in Nepal dedicated to Lord Vishnu. The two-storied temple is a perfect example of Newari style architecture. There have been continuous additions to the complex by ruling kings. It was destroyed sometime in the 17th century after which it has been rebuilt. The temple, as it now stands, is made of gilded copper sheets on its top most roof, while the lower one has a tiled roof.
The overhanging roof is supported by beautifully sculptored wooden struts with 10 avatars of Vishnu carved onto them.
You enter the temple through the eastern gate. The temple premises are filled with small temples and bas-reliefs from 5th to 13th century and that gives the temple its characteristic look.
There are four doorways with decorated torans or exquisitely carved crest over the entrance. The doorways are protected by a pair of griffins, mythical winged lions, snow lions and elephants.
I plan to encirlcle the temple and will paste my pictures in that order.
On turning towards the right towards the north-east I see a set of four beautiful Vishnus.
A set of Lord Vishnus on the side of plateform. A Shivlinga is seen nearby.
Another Vishnu stands in front of a headless figure. In the background is seen the Shiva temple.
And another extremely beautiful 10-armed Vaikunth Vishnu.
The temple courtyard has small shines of Lord Ganesha, and Lord Krishna.
North facing entrance:
The next entrance to temple is guarded by mythical winged lions.
One very small easy to miss stone tablet with Vishnu, Durga and Shiva carvings in front of this entrance.
Lord Vishnu has four arms and holds a mace and Chakra in his raised arms. Eight armed Goddess Durga has a sword, damru, a trident, and also chakra or disc, her one leg placed over the lion, her mount.
Lord Shiva has four arms with a trident, damru in his raised arms and a pot in one arm and the other raised in varad mudra (blessing posture). He has a Shivlinga in front of him.
The other entrance, as we turn towards the western side, is the main entrance.
Garuda:
A 5th century Garuda with snake around his neck sitting in anjali mudra, a posture of salutation. This is said to be oldest Garuda in Nepal.
Metal statue of Bhupatindra Malla:
King Bhupatindra Malla and his queen in a gilded cage in front of the main entrance.
Just near the pillar of Chakra is the inscriptions pillar.
It is said to be the oldest written document in Nepal.
Kileshwar temple:
The Shivling in this two storied temple of Kileshwar Mahadev is said to have appeared to protect the people and the hill.
This 11-12 th century Narsimha Avatar, the half man and half lion avatar of Vishnu, who killed Hiranyakashyap to protect and support his devotee, Prahlaad.
Shiva temple:
Shiva temple damaged by the earthquake. Shivlinga lies in the center of temple. Nandi, the mount of Lord Shiva still sits unadhered.
Beautiful stone work lies on side, probably to be used in reconstruction.
Jalnarayan Vishnu:
Vishnu Vishwaroop or Viraatrupa:
Many stone relics existed pre-earthquake and this is one of them. I saw its replica at Kathmandu airport, have taken its photo shot and am putting it here.
The 5th- 6th century, universal form of Vishnu image known as Viraatrupa () or Vishhwarupa () is a masterpiece.
This form of Vishnu is his supreme form which he revealed to Arjun, one of the brothers of Pandavas during the battle of Mahabharata.
The whole universe is said to immanate from him and within him.
In this form, Vishnu has 10 heads and 10 arms.
In his hands, Vishnu holds weapons associatd usually with him as conch, mace, chakra.
All around him, conch shells have been etched.
Garudasan Narayan:
In the northwest corner of the temple is the 7 century statue of Vishnu sitting on the back of Garuda, Garudasan Vishnu ( गरुड़ासन विष्णु ).
Vishnu holds a chakra wheel and a long mace club in his raised hands and a conch in the hand on his lap.
Notice the above relic adorns the center of the 10 rupee note issued by the Nepal Rashtra Bank.
South entrance:
This entrance is flanked by a pair of elephants on either side.
The center strut is the varah avatar (वारा अवतार) or the boar avatar.
The temple is guarded by two snow lions.
I have circled the temple and have come back to the starting point.
On the way, lots of souvenir shops.
Changu Narayan temple was considered as sacred as the Pashupati Nath temple. The proximity of the later to the city makes it easily accesible by people and it is therfore more crowded. Changunarayan is a little further from Kathmandu and on a hilltop, making it less frequented.
This is a beautiful temple and masterpiece carvings exist in this temple. It has been rebuilt four timess already and sadly the time has now come to rebuild it again.
The temple still stands tall and majestic supported on wooden planks, though the surrrounding building and reliefs have been badly destroyed by the earthquake of April 2015.
A 20 minute drive from Bhaktapur on the winding road up the hill of Dolagiri or Changu at 1541 meters and we see the first glimpse of the temple's pinnacle.
After buying the ticket, a small lane passing through Changu village, leads to the temple premises.
The first view of temple roof
The overhanging roof is supported by beautifully sculptored wooden struts with 10 avatars of Vishnu carved onto them.
You enter the temple through the eastern gate. The temple premises are filled with small temples and bas-reliefs from 5th to 13th century and that gives the temple its characteristic look.
There are four doorways with decorated torans or exquisitely carved crest over the entrance. The doorways are protected by a pair of griffins, mythical winged lions, snow lions and elephants.
I plan to encirlcle the temple and will paste my pictures in that order.
The eastern entrance
On the left side of this entrance is Chinnamasta temple, a small Ganesha temple. On its right side is a plateform.
Shiva temple:
A Shiva temple on the right side of entrance.
East facing entrance:
the temple entrance as you see on entering the temple premises
What you see is not the main entrance to temple, it is the east entrance and is guarded by a pair of griffins, a mythical figure with head and wings of eagle and body of a lion.
Torana has Vishnu in the center and Lakshmi and Garuda on either side
I turn my attention to the right side, a short video might give an idea about the placement of small bas-reliefs surrounding the temple.
Vishnu in the center holds a long mace in one hand and chakra in another. He rides the Garuda. The ones on the sides, hold a mace and chakra.
In the last one, Vishnu stands under the umbrella of Sheshnaag, the eternal serpent.
And another extremely beautiful 10-armed Vaikunth Vishnu.
Close up of the above
Four-armed Vishnu stands on Garuda holding a chakra and conch in his raised arms and a lotus and mace in the other two arms.
Eight-armed Vaikuntha Vishnu:
In the north-east corner, a 16th century 10 armed Vaikuntha Vishnu with goddess Lakshmi, his consort on his lap. The Goddess sits in lalit asana (where one foot lies on top of the other thigh and the other foot dangles).
Vishnu has 4 heads including two lion (Narsimha) on each side and one above the head in the center. He is seen riding 3- armed Garuda. Vishnu's one avatar is Narsimh where he has the head of a lion and body of a man.
Eight-armed Goddess:
Eight armed Durga on the east side near the platform. The features were not very clear.
North facing entrance:
The next entrance to temple is guarded by mythical winged lions.
sculpture on side of entrance
another on the other side
Notice the torana is different
Lord Krishna playing flute on the torana in this side of entrance
Ornately decorated temple door
Lord Vishnu has four arms and holds a mace and Chakra in his raised arms. Eight armed Goddess Durga has a sword, damru, a trident, and also chakra or disc, her one leg placed over the lion, her mount.
Lord Shiva has four arms with a trident, damru in his raised arms and a pot in one arm and the other raised in varad mudra (blessing posture). He has a Shivlinga in front of him.
The other entrance, as we turn towards the western side, is the main entrance.
Full view of the temple from the main entrance
The sides of the temples have two columns, one having a conch and the other the chakra.
Beautifully carved Vishnu on wooden struts
Heavily gilded main entrance guarded by snow lions
gilded doors of the main entrance with Lakshmi, Vishnu and Garuda on torana
Garuda:
Metal statue of Bhupatindra Malla:
Just near the pillar of Chakra is the inscriptions pillar.
The inscriptions provide information from the Licchavi kingdom (Buddha's mother was a Licchavi princess) and also about the history of Nepal.
The column rests on a tortoise. The conch has Aum inscribed on it.
Kileshwar temple:
entrance to temple
Shivlinga inside the temple
Narsimha avatar:Shiva temple:
Shiva temple damaged by the earthquake. Shivlinga lies in the center of temple. Nandi, the mount of Lord Shiva still sits unadhered.
Beautiful stone work lies on side, probably to be used in reconstruction.
Jalnarayan Vishnu:
Also known as Budhaneelkantha, a replica lies here in this temple. I had earlier written about this in detail in my earlier post,Shiva and Vishnu (Pashupatinath and Budhaneelkantha)
Vishnu Vishwaroop or Viraatrupa:
Many stone relics existed pre-earthquake and this is one of them. I saw its replica at Kathmandu airport, have taken its photo shot and am putting it here.
This form of Vishnu is his supreme form which he revealed to Arjun, one of the brothers of Pandavas during the battle of Mahabharata.
The whole universe is said to immanate from him and within him.
In this form, Vishnu has 10 heads and 10 arms.
In his hands, Vishnu holds weapons associatd usually with him as conch, mace, chakra.
All around him, conch shells have been etched.
Garudasan Narayan:
Vishnu holds a chakra wheel and a long mace club in his raised hands and a conch in the hand on his lap.
Notice the above relic adorns the center of the 10 rupee note issued by the Nepal Rashtra Bank.
Nepal 10 rupee note
South entrance:
On the torana, Vishnu sits on Garuda with a chakra and mace in his hands
multi-armed deity on wooden struts
a close-up
Chinnamasta temple:
Chinnamasta temple which is dedicated to Chinnamasta Devi, who beheaded herself offering her blood to feed hungry Dakini and Varnini. The temple is guarded on one side by an elephant.
A small Ganesha shrine is seen on one side.
On its other side, the Shiva temple has been destroyed by the recent earthquake.
Girl doing the Tankha painting
Lots of tankha paintings can be seen on side of the street leading to the temple. A small painting can take a month to finish and a larger one around 3-4 months by the artist working 8 hours a day.
preparing for winters
Winters would soon be approaching and in the absence of fresh vegetables, people dry corn and use it during the winters.On the way, lots of souvenir shops.
getting the wooden masks ready
masks for sale
Kumar in front of a house
The Newar community in Nepal worship Kumar or Kartikeya, brother of Lord Ganesh. Every house has the symbol of Kartikeya outside.
hiti
The above hiti or water spout is said to be in existence since the times of Licchavis.Changu Narayan temple was considered as sacred as the Pashupati Nath temple. The proximity of the later to the city makes it easily accesible by people and it is therfore more crowded. Changunarayan is a little further from Kathmandu and on a hilltop, making it less frequented.
This is a beautiful temple and masterpiece carvings exist in this temple. It has been rebuilt four timess already and sadly the time has now come to rebuild it again.
