Swayambhunatha

Kathmandu valley is said to have been filled with a lake some 2,000 years back and a single lotus bloomed in it. The Bodhisattava, Manjusri emptied the water with his sword, the lotus settled where the stupa is now and formed into a stupa, hence the name Swayambhu (Swayam, self and bhu, place), a self arisen place.
This place is commonly also known as the Monkey temple as hordes of monkeys can be seen. The mythology says that Manjusri was so deep in meditation and his hair grew and soon got head lice. The lice transformed into monkeys and have been living in this area since then.

Unfortunately, like many monuments, this stupa could not escape the onslaught by Muslim invader Shamsuddin Illyas Shah of Bengal in 14th century. Suspecting lots of treasure hidden beneath the stupa, he destroyed it but found nothing. The stupa was renovated around 22 years later.

Swayambhunath (स्वयंभूनाथ) :

Panoramic view of Swayambhunatha

Entrance to Stupa

This is the main entrance from the eastern side and walking up 365 steps takes you to the Stupa. One step representing each day of the year. Notice on top of the gate, two deer and the dharma chakra. I have mentioned the significnce of it in my post on Boudhanatha Stupa, Nepal

There is another entrance to the south which has less number of steps to climb, I had taken that route earlier. This entrance is usually preferred as the car park is situated at this end.

But, this time, I decided to climb up the main entrance on the east and exit the other way. I would be pasting a picture of that entrance later in my post.

View in front of this entrance

Two huge Lord Buddha statues guarded by two snow lions at the enterance.

This 12 feet prayer wheel is on the right side of entrance.

It takes at least two people to turn the wheel. Turning the wheel gives merits.

Climbing up, you see plenty of stones inscribed with the sacred mantra, Om Mani Padme Hum

a close up

Monkeys everywhere, one needs to be careful of these primates. They are quite harmless if left alone  but do not try to provoke them.

The place is aptly named the Monkey temple!

The climb is interesting and many scenes can be seen on the sides.

Maya devi, the mother of Gautam Buddha.

These two images were actually on either side of the climb but I have put them together.

Lord Ganesha and his sibling Kartikeya. Again, these were separate which I have displayed as          one.

Shila lekh on slate

The stone carvings force you to stop. Commonly known as 'Shila Lekh', (shila, stone and lekh writing), beautiful patterns are etched on graphite or slate slabs using just a chisel.  A hammer may be used at times. The pattern is sketched on a tablet and the gentle hammering produces a beautiful piece of art. A mistake cannot be undone so the artist has to be very careful while making it.

woman concentrating on carving out a piece

Chaityas

souvenirs for sale

Beautiful things like the singing bowl, wooden masks, prayer flags, prayer beads are common things on sale.

still a long climb ahead :(

a close up

entrance ticket

As you are about to reach the top, on the left side is the ticket counter.

front view of Vajra

A huge Vajra or thunderbolt placed by king Pratap Malla guarded by snow lions on its either side welcomes one on entering. A Tibetian calendar with zodiac signs is just below it. You can see dog, pig and mouse here.

a close up and side view

In the above picture, the Tibetan zodiac animals, ox, tiger, hare,

panoramic view giving the layout of Swayambhunatha

Anantpur and Pratappur towers

Anantpur and Pratappur are two bullet shaped towers on either side of the stupa. These towers or shikhars were built by King Pratap Malla in the 17th century in memory of his wives, Ugratara and Vajrayogini. Unfortunately, Pratappur tower succumbed to the wrath of earthquake in April 2015.

Prayer bells and butter lamps surround all across with Buddha in niches at the base of stupa

Buddha statues in niches at the base of stupa

A lot of maintainence is needed to restore them fully.

A monk performing Kora. Kora is a Tibetan word and means circumambulation or going round a holy place. Hindus circumambulate around the temple deity and call it Pradikshana. While performing Kora which is always in clockwise direction, a devotee rotates the prayer wheels in a clockwise direction. 

He may have also have prayer beads in hands thus meditating while going round. It is thus a method of meditation. Some people might be seen turning the hand held prayer wheel also.

Dhyaani Buddha, Vairochana and Akshobhaya.

Around the stupa can be seen statues of five Dhyani Buddha--- Vairochana, Amitabha, Amoghsiddhi, Ratnasambhava, and Aksobhaya and also their consorts. 

Four dhyaani Buddha behind gilded copper work face in the four cardinal directions- Amoghsiddhi to the north, Ratnasambhava towards south, Akshobhaya to the east and Amitabha towards the west. Vairochana is supposed to be in the centre so he is placed slightly left of Akshobhaya.

Amoghsiddhi behind the mesh

Vairochana in white denoting space

Ratnasambhava in orangish yellow denoting earth

The other dhyaani Buddha Akshobhaya is clothed blue denoting water, and Amitabha in red, a symbol of fire.

In between the dhyaani Buddha are their consorts. 

beautifully carved work over the dhyaani Buddha

You see the same features as in Boudhanatha, Boudhnatha Stupa, Nepal. Here, instead of square bhumis or steps, they are round. Harmika has the same features along with an umbrella on top.

The squiggly nose which is number one in Nepali script denotes one way to enlightenment. The compassionate eyes of Buddha who sees and blesses everyone. The third eye represented by a dot is the eye of enlightenment.

a close up of the compassionate all seeing eyes 

There is still so much to write but I just realized, I have been going on and on. The post seems to be getting too long.

I shall continue in my next post where I shall write about monasteries and temples surrounding the stupa.

Boudhnatha Stupa, Nepal

In my earlier posts on Nepal, I have written about Hindu temples. Nepal has as many Bouddh temples as the Hindu ones. Yes, Buddhism came much later but its impact has been significant.

There is a complete and harmonious intermixing of the two religions in Nepal.

I visited two big temples in and near Kathmandu. One was Boudhanatha and the other Swambhunatha. Both are UNESCO heritage sites.

At the time of writing this post never in my weirdest thoughts did I think that soon I would be posting pictures of the same monument, damaged to a great extent.

Boudhnatha and Swayambhunatha stupas, which I am going to write about, are of Kadampa style. This style differs from Kalachakra (wheel of life) style. Let me briefly shed some light on the main features of Kadampa style stupa. In this style:

• The base which is usually square represents the earth or universe
• The dome represents water
• On top of dome is a square area called harmika which forms a fence around the spire. Here, the spire is represented by the thirteen steps or bhumis. So, harmika sort of forms a fence around the tree of enlightenment.
• The harmika has a pair of eyes, a nose and also a third eye.
• On top of harmika are placed 13- steps or bhumis which are symbols of fire.
• On top of bhumis is an umbrella which is a representative of Nirvana or enlightenment
• Then topmost is the pinnacle, which represents space.

Boudhnatha (बौद्धनाथ):

This stupa a little distance away from the center of Kathmandu and is among the largest stupas in Nepal. It dominates the sky line and I could see it from my hotel window too. Boudha means Buddha which means wisdom and Natha means God so, Boudhantha is God of wisdom.

The vastness of the stupa or chaitya overpowers you once you come close to it.

Entrance gate to Boudhnath taken from inside the temple

Boudhnatha Stupa with Goddess Harti Devi in front

When you look at the above picture, you see three plinths or levels which represent the earth.

The dome is a representation of water.

The 13- steps are symbols of fire, the parasol or umbrella symbolizes wisdom and the topmost pinnacle is the space.

Devotees paying respect

The base has sixteen sides and has frescos of 108 Avalokiteshwar all around in the niches with prayer wheels in between.

Prayer wheels

Om Mani Padme Hum- the sacred mantra- is inscribed at the base near the wheels. Spinning the wheel clockwise and also circumbulating the stupa in a clockwise direction gives merit.

At the four corners are the four Dyaani Buddha, the fifth one is said to be enshrined in the center (under the dome). Next is a dome which has 108 niches with Buddha placed inside.

On top of the dome, is a rectangular structure which is called harmika. Harmica is a small square platform with a fence located at the top of a stupa. It has an umbrella or a canopy on top as a symbol of honor and respect.

Above the harmika are the thirteen steps or bhumis. Here, in Bodhanatha they are square in pattern. These bhumis are the obstacles faced  in attaining enlightenment. It decreases in size as it goes up and is a representation of fire. Crossing of each step takes us closer to Nirvana. Nirvana does not mean death, it means enlightenment. Above the 13 bhumis, you see an umbrella or a canopy which signifies air and on top is space.

Prayer flags can be seen tied to the sides. The fluttering caused by air carries the mantra inscribed on the flags and purifies the places it goes through.

enlarged view of the eyes

Within the harmica, one sees the magnetic eyes of Buddha on all four corners of stupa. It means that whatever lies below the eyes is worldly. According to Nepalese beliefs, the eyes of Buddha on the four corners observe the activities of everyone. It is also believed that peace would prevail where ever the eyes would look. Look closely and you see a third eye which represents the eye of enlightenment.

Then you see a squiggly nose which looks like a question mark. It is actually the Nepali way to write number one. It signifies that there is only way to God realization.

the view in front of the entrance

Stone carved Hindu deities with offering of flowers, vermilion and rice. They are placed near the entrance at the ground level or the base. Above this level, begin the three plinths.

Lord Ganesha at entrance

Giant prayer wheel on the side of entrance

prayer wheels on the side of entrance

Harati Devi or Ajima Devi temple

In between the entry and exit doors is the Hindu Goddess Harati Devi temple. She is also known as Goddess Ajima and also Sheetla Devi.

The Goddess Harati Devi

The Goddess has long been revered as the protector of children as she removes all small children's diseases, especially small pox and other communicable diseases in children. Mothers come with their small children to seek her blessings.

On top of the Goddess's pinnacle is a lotus on top of which a double sided Vajra. The Dharma Chakra and the golden deer can also  clearly be seen.

Incense burning urn

Entry beyond level one is prohibited. On either side on this level are two people mounted on elephants. The features look very close to Mongol features. I don't have the correct answer but since the monastery opposite the stupa is a Tamang Monastery, probably it also has a Mongolian influence.

Tamang Gompa or Guru Lhakhang Monastery:

Commonly also known as Boudhanatha Monastery, it lies just opposite the Stupa.  This two storey monastery is beautiful and a must see. Gompa is monastery in Newar.

Monastery

Tamangs are a very small Tibetan community in Nepal and follow Tibetan Buddhism. This gompa or monastery has mainly Tamangs as their followers, in addition to others.

There are three schools in Buddhism- Hinayaana, Mahayaana and Vajrayana, which is said to be an off shoot of Mahayana which soon became an independent school. Vajrayana is more popular in Mongolia, Bhutan, Nepal, Tibet, India (Ladakh and Sikkhim), with very few followers in China, Korea, Japan. 

Since, Tamangs are Tibetian descendants, they practice Vajrayaana.

Let me write few lines on Vajrayana.

It is called Vajrayana (Vajra is thunderbolt or Dorji (Tibet) and Yana is vehicle) because of the use of Vajra in their spiritual practice.  I have mentioned about Vajra in my earlier post Some beliefs and rituals in Bhutan

Also, important are the bell which is used in conjunction with vajra, prayer beads and prayer wheel.

It is also known as Mantrayan (because of the Mantra they recite, Om Mani Padme Hum),

It's also referred as Tantric Buddhism because a lot of fresco or images or paintings are shown with angry, fierce forms. The wrathful expression shows the protection of dharma teachings.

The role of Lama (Tibet) or Guru (India) is very important.

Huge bell at entrance of Monastery

Tibetan golden deer with Dharam Chakra on top of Monastery

Why are deer on sides of Dharmchakra? Honestly speaking, I was intrigued by this for I had seen this only in Nepal.  I researched a lot and finally I was able to piece my puzzle together. The reason is when Lord Buddha gave his first sermon at Deer Park at Sarnath, called the Dharmachakra Parivartan,  it was so powerful that even all the birds and animals came to listen to it. The deer was also in the audience. According to Tibetan tradition, any monastery which has both the direct teachings of Buddha (Kanyur) and commentaries (Tengyur) will have this symbol of golden deer on both sides of Dharma Chakra (Dharma wheel) on top. The Dharam Chakra has eight spokes which refer to the Noble Eight fold Path.

Fresco on wall

Painting on roof

Entrance to prayer room

Fresco representing the wheel of life

the other side of entrance to prayer room

The above frescos show the influence of tantric tradition in Buddhism.

Vajrasatva 

The prayer hall has many golden idols along its wall. I have taken and pasted some pictures.

          Sakhyamuni Buddha                  Shanta Rakshita                                   Dharma King                                                                   

     Amitabha Buddha                         Maha Guru                             Singhmukhi Dakini

taking blessings from monk

view of Boudhnatha from my hotel room

All around the stupa, there are shops which sell prayer wheels, beads, thankha paintings etc. Its exciting to see all the stuff. Further ahead, there are shops selling grains, pulses, spices.

It saddens me that portion of this magnificent stupa were damaged during the recent earthquake on 25th April. I have posted some pictures on the damage to this stupa in my earlier post on Recent loss of cultural heritage of Nepal