Batu Caves, Kuala Lumpur

The first thing you hear when making an itinerary of Kuala Lumpur is the Batu caves. Situated in Gombak, Selangor, approximately 15 kms, around 45 minutes drive from the city center, this is a must place to visit not only for its temple but also for the vast mesmerizing caves inside.

About the deity:

The presiding deity in this temple is Lord Murugan or Kartikeya or Skanda, son of Lord Shiva and Parvati and brother of Lord Ganesha.  Known for his strength, power and protector of dharma, also revered as Subramanyam, he is seen mostly with a vel(a sort of spear) which was given by his mother, Parvati with all her powers in it.

He later slayed many demons with his vel. To name a few Tarakasur or Soorapadam, Krauncha, Banasur were all killed by Kartikeya.

 

He is seen sitting on a peacock which signifies destruction of bad habits and killing one's ego.

In North India, he is a bachelor whereas in South India, he is accompanied by his two wives: Valli and Devasena or Devayani or Deivanai.

 

History of Batu caves:

Batu, which is a Malay word for rocks. So, it can be translated to rock caves. The formation inside the caves including the stalactites and stalagmites are enough to convey anyone of its 400 million age.

There used to be a limestone quarry sometime back but the mining has been stopped as the vibrations would damage the formations inside the caves.

Long before the temple was built, it was used as a shelter by indigenous people of the place. By 1860, Chinese settlers started harvesting guano for fertilizer purposes.

In 1890, K. Thamboosamy, who was a wealthy businessman, and founded the Sri Mahamariamman Temple near China Town in Kuala Lumpur,  decided to dedicate the place to Lord Murugan.

From 1892, the festival of Thaipusam has been celebrated every year.

 

Thaipusam:

This temple though is busy throughout the year but on the second full moon day in January, it comes to life to celebrate Thaipusam. It marks the gifting of vel by Parvati to his son. Lord Murugan is said to be born from the flame of his father, Shiva's eye of wisdom.  It is a massive celebration with thousands of devotees attending it.

 

Entrance fees: there is no entry fee for visiting the main cave temple. However, if one wishes to visit other caves, there is an entry fee.

 

Dress code: This is a religious place and an active temple, no one is permitted to go up if inappropriately dressed. Women should wear dresses below their knees and have their shoulders covered. No shorts permitted for women. For men, shorts below their knees is acceptable.

One would need to take off shoes if they plan to enter a temple.

limestone hills 

The golden statue of Lord Murugan:

Its impossible to miss the huge gold statue of Lord Murugan near the climb. Standing at 42.7 meters (140 feet) high, it is the tallest statue in Malaysia and one of the tallest in the world.

statue of Lord Murugan by the side of stairs

Details of construction of the image:

• time period of construction: It took almost three years to built the massive image with the help of 15 sculptors from India
  
• cost: a whooping amount of US$ 529, 940
• materials: it used 350 tons of steel, 1,550 cubic meters of concrete and 300 liters of gold paint

 entrance point

Since, this is an active temple, proper dress code needs to be adhered to. No short dresses or shorts for women. A woman was called down as she was wearing shorts. These people are handed out sarongs here, you wear it and return when going out. Some, however escape the sharp eyes of guards.

climb up the stairs

 the entrance

On the top of temple entrance are Shiva and Parvati with Lord Ganesha and Murugan. Beneath them can be seen Murugan with 6 heads with peacock and Valli and Devayani by his side.

 

Climbing steep stairs:

The brightly painted stairs provide an incentive for anyone to climb up. Initially made of wood, they soon broke down and were replaced by concrete steps in 1940. In 1918, each set of steps were painted in different bright rainbow colors. After a set of every 15 steps, the 16th is broader which gives a place to rest. This also gave me a wonderful opportunity to take some pictures😄

When painted, the stairs started a controversy with Malaysian heritage board but the temple's organizing committee were of the view that those rainbow stairs would attract a lot of tourists. Moreover, I think it wears off the boredom on climbing plain stairs. Sure enough it worked and the colorful stairs have become synonymous with Batu caves now.

entrance to mouth of temple cave

the entrance gate has peacocks, the mount of Lord Murugan on both sides. Macaques everywhere provide amusement to tourists. Many stop to take pictures of them playing pranks🙉.They are not at all aggressive and I was surprised because most of them attack visitors at times. But then also one needs to be careful of them.

the entrance has an image of Lord Murugan in the center with two peacocks by his side

entrance

Temple cave:

On reaching the top, one is wonderstuck at the size of cavern. Saying it is huge is an understatement.

the ceiling is said to be more than 90 meters(295 feet) above us.

Lord Shiva family in between the rocks

Sri Idumban temple:

On the right of entrance, is a small shrine of Sri Idumpan. Idumpan is a devotee of Lord Murugan who guards his temple. It is said that before worshiping the Lord, one needs to venerate the temple guard.

souvenir shop at site

small snack and a flower shop

Shiva in center with Parvati on his left and Murugan with folded hands. In the next image, Murugan sitting in the center.

Soon is seen a huge space with a big Hindu shrine on the left, surrounded by smaller ones by the cavern wall.

stalactite formation on one side

model of temples

Lord Shiva, Parvati, Ganesha and Murugan on Mount Kailash

ceiling letting in light at small places

 

Sri Velayuthar temple:

The main shrine on the lower cavern is Sri Velayuthar temple where Lord Murugan is the presiding deity.

In accordance to all Hindu temples, shoes need to be taken off before entering only if you wish to go inside. Those who wish to look from outside do not need to take off their footwear.

small shrine on left side before entrance

wooden door of temple

shrine of Lord Ganesha, the brother of Lord Murugan

Lord Murugan, the presiding deity of this temple

Vel of Lord Murugan on extreme left

 

On the side is silver image of Lord Murugan, probably used in procession during Thaipusam

Below the image of Lord Murugan is peacock, his mount, which represents devotion. The peacock is seen with a snake in its claws which represents our ego and illusion and the materialistic pleasures. Only by surrendering ourselves at the feet of God, can we get out of this web.

Baby Murugan with vel in his hand

Shoes are permitted in this part of cave outside the boundary of shrine

Kartikeya (Murugan) flanked by Valli and Devayani in front of the main temple shrine

 

Sri Valli Deivanai( Devayani or Devasena) Murugan temple:

From this cavern, a flight of stairs leads to the top cavern which was the site of where the first temple was built.

stairs leading to second cavern

entering the second cavern

view of first cavern from top

flight of stairs to second cavern

The top of cavern has broken or fallen off, and it lets in plenty of sunlight. The edge of the opening is lined by trees giving it a majestic appearance.

Stalactites and stalagmites form the walls of cavern.

temple of Lord Murugan, Valli and Deivanai

  Lord Murugan with Valli on left of image and Deivanai on right of image

devotees seeking blessings

Nataraj and Parvati by the side of temple

small shrine of Shiva and Parvati in a small cove

the shrine

stalactites touching the floor

massive stalactite formation

Coming down on the side temple, you can see Nandi, the mount of Shiva who sits on the roof of another temple

Durga temple on the left of image and Shiva temple on to the right

flowers and garlands for offering to God

There are plenty of shops to buy sweets for offering to God or to kill your hunger.

As I write this, I just read that after the Thaipusam festival on 25th January this year finishes, the Batu caves committee plans to install an escalator for people who cannot climb or are unwilling to climb 272 stairs.

Apart from the main temple, there are many more temples in the complex. I am going to visit those temples.