One of the very important temple in the Old Quarter is Bach Ma temple. It is said to be one of the oldest temple in Hanoi and is one of the four guarding temples. The four guarding temples in four directions including Bach Ma temple are Quan Thanh temple, Kim Lien temple, Voi Phuc temple. They protected Thang Long(ancient name of Hanoi) from evil spirits.
Bach Ma temple is the protector of east direction.
The temple has been renovated many times. During the French colonists, because of the belief of people, the French colonists in the 19th century dared not ravage it. For this reason, the temple still retains the grandeur of the Nguyen architecture.
Again, during the US-Vietnam war, B52 bombs were hurled in the North of Vietnam. This brought about a lot of destruction in Hanoi. Most of the Old Quarter was destroyed but this temple remained unscathed. This further strengthened the beliefs of people in this temple.
temple seen across the road
Legend and History of the Bach Ma temple:
In the 9th century, during Tang dynasty, a Vietnamese Mandarin, Long Do helped people fight against domination by Cao Bien, General of China's Tang died. People in his memory decided to build a temple.
The
temple was named Lon Do and changed to Bach Ma.
In 1010, during the reign of Emperor Ly Thai To (A huge statue of his stands opposite Hoan Kiem
lake in Hanoi) who
ruled from 1009 to 1028 decided to shift his capital for Hoa Lu to Thang Long. Many attempts to build the citadel were unsuccessful as the walls kept on falling down. The emperor one day dreamt in which he saw the deity telling him that a horse would come out of the temple. He would wander around the city and leave tracks along which the citadel's walls should be built.
The King followed the instructions and the citadel was constructed.
After this, King Ly Cong appointed god Long Do as the protective deity of Thang Long. The white horse became a sacred symbol of Bach Ma temple.
The temple is believed to be so sacred that the French colonialists in the 19th century did not have the courage to vandalize or even relocate it. Since then Bach Ma has made a special place in Hanoi.
main entrance with a three-door gate
drum near the temple
beautiful bonsai with pomelos
mountain lion
Nghê
Mountain lion and dragon on either side of temple entrance are seen almost in every Vietnamese temple. Is there any significance or is it just for aesthetic sense?
The mountain lion, sometimes seen as Nghê or mythical lion at places are temple guardians placed at entrances to protect against negative energies
The dragon on other side represents supreme power, and is linked to water, rain in agricultural beliefs.
The placement of each on either side, represents a balance between flying dragon (sky and water) and lion (earth), this making sure that the place is safe and secure from all sides.
Inside the temple:
There are 3 halls each behind the other.
entrance to 1st hall
a bronze incense burning urn
The first hall is the Shrine of White Horse.
Shrine of White Horse
The white horse which led to the location of shrine is also worshiped here.
Two bronze crane on turtle symbolizing the harmony of yin and yang stand on both side of the horse.
ancient weapons
Legend of the White Horse:
The shrine of the White Horse is the most important one, no doubt the name of the temple says that. Bach Ma means the "White Horse". It is the same horse who guided King Ly Thai to the location as the city walls would give away everytime it was constructed.
Every year Bach Ma temple Festival is held on the 13th day of the second lunar month. A procession is taken out of the horse, Bach Ma on the palanquin on which it stands.
the white horse
gong rack 
Shrine of Long Do:
The second hall is dedicated to Long Do God. Long Do is the god of Long Do mountain, one of deities of Vietnam.
It is also believed that Long Do is a mysterious character who appeared in front of Cao Pian, who was 9th century Chinese Mandarin and Cao Pian built this temple of Long Do to please him following a bad storm.
2nd hall, shrine of Long Do
shrine of Long Do, sadly only the throne was there
The image is said to be carved from wood and is painted gold.
3rd room at the back
Shrine of Mau Thoai:
The third shrine is dedicated to Mẫu Thoải who is the goddess of heavenly water palace.
red lacquered palanquin
The wooden beams inside the temple is exquisitely decorated.
Like the beams, wooden pillars too are carved
While exiting, there is one stone stele which looks very similar to the steles in Temple of Literature.
Opening hours: 8:00 AM to 11:00 AM and 2:00 PM to 8:00 PM throughout the week
Entry fee: there is no entry fee
Dress code: This is an active temple, hence like all temples, visitors are expected to dress modestly. Shoulders and legs should be covered.
