Pilgrimage to Muktinath, Nepal

I have frequently been visiting Nepal and in every visit I would plan going to Muktinath knowing fully well how treacherous the route is. Finally, in this visit I have been able to do it.
An unforgettable trip for me, maybe because of the fact that I might never go there again in my life time.

Muktinath (मुक्तिनाथ) Mukti- salvation, nath- god or Muktichetra (मुक्तिक्षेत्र ) Mukti- salvation, chetra- area to Hindus and Chhumi Gyarchha (छुमि  ग्यार्छ) meaning 108 waters.

It is situated at an altitude of 3,750 meters, half of Mount Everest (8,848m) at the base of Throng La (pass) in the Mustang region of western Nepal. It is sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists.  Only 20 kms north-east of  Jomsom, this region opened for tourism in 1992. The pagoda styled temple is said to be 2000 years old.

Considered holy by Hindus who worship Vishnu as Mukti Narayan or the Narayan or Vishnu of salvation and by Buddhists as Avalokiteshwar. Among the Hindus, it is said that one should visit this place after paying obescience at the Chaardhaam (चारधाम) or 4 holy places: Kedarnath, Badrinath, Rameshwaram and Dwarka.

I wanted to go all the way by road but was told that it was not a good idea at all as there were many bus changes involved and also given the constraint of time, which I always have. The program satisfied me as it enabled me to see the countryside while saving time.

We planned on flying all the way to Jomsom (Dzong-Sampa or Dzong-Sam in Tibetan) and then proceed to Muktinath by road.
I shall write a separate post on my trip from Pokhara to Jomsom. In this one, I shall just focus on writing about the Muktinath trip.

Annapurna permit

Since, the region comes under Annapurna Conservtion Area, a permit needs to be obtained before you venture on this journey.

The route map from Jomsom to Muktinath

The black arrows was the route taken on jeep and then we trekked from Ranipauwa to Muktinath, highlighted by the red arrow.

bridge in Jomsom

Our journey began from Jomsom where we were staying. Since, there is no bridge over Kali Gandaki river (one is being constructed) you need to cross using the woodden pedestrian bridge and take transport from the other side to Muktinath.

Bus and jeep station at Jomsom

It took us around 20 minutes to reach the bus station from our hotel.

Our jeep ticket

The jeeps are very paricular about loading passengers to maximum capacity, so you might end up waiting for more passengers to turn up.
After the vehicle filled up, we started our journey.

our trip, full of adventure, begins on this road

another jolt to the backbone!

need to hold my breath!

I just crossed it

Ekele Bhatti

Ekele is one and Bhatti is a drinking place. Earlier, this was the only place where people could come to drink hence came to be known as Ekele Bhatti or "one place bar".

Time to stretch our legs

Leaving a huge trail of dust behind.

It is not easy to live in such arid and harsh climate. Nothing grows here, all supplies come from far on mule back and now on jeeps or buses.

For a moment I thought that they were yaks but was told by a co-passenger that they are zho and zhomo, a hybrid between a yak and cow. They are domesticated for milk and meat.

In between Kagbeni and Jharkot, you see ridged mountains with small holes. They are actually caves which were inhabited by people of Mustang almost 2700 years back. I have put arrows to show them. The picture above shows them in the background.

A little ahead of Jharkot, the vehicle journey ended and the walking begins.

passing through Ranipauwa on way to Muktinath

Shaligrams amongst the souvenirs.  Shaligrams (ammonite) are considered as incarnation of Vishnu and are worshipped by Hindus.

After twenty minutes of walking, I see the first gate.  I jumped in excitement thinking I had reached my destination but on passing through the gate way, saw no signs of the temple. Still more to climb!

on path to God, you travel alone

Another twenty minutes of walking, feeling breathless we reach the second gate, and again my hopes rose about having reached my destination. But no, still way further.
This is the entrance to the temple premises.

A white wall surrounds it.

helipad just outside Muktinath premises

A bell on the side

Prayer wheels on the other side

huge bell outside

temple layout

 another prayer wheel just beside Samba Gomba

 Final steps to the temple through the tree lined track.
Trees have been planted and taken care inside the temple complex.

Vishnu paduka temple

Vishnu paduka or Vishnu feet temple is a small shrine on the right side while climbing up the last leg  of this journey.
Do not lose hope, just few more steps to go.

gushing water flowing into Gandaki river at the back of temple

The flight of steps at the back lead to temple and the one with bell leads to Jwalamai temple

water driven prayer wheels on right side before climbing the final steps

First sight of the temple

The three-tiered temple is not huge, then why do most Hindus have an ardent desire to visit it once in a lifetime? Hindus believe in rebirth and the fruits of what you do in this birth are given in next birth. The cycle continues till you achieve salvation. This temple is said to break this cycle and grant the devotee the boon of getting rid of this cycle of rebirths.

Buddhist prayer flags flutter in the background.

Vishnu on the torana with Saraswati on his right and Lakshmi on left

Gold idol of Vishnu adorns the main temple. Vishnu sits under the umbrella of sheshnaag or the eternal serpent. On his left side stands Saraswati and on his right side is devi Lakshmi.
The place is also a Shakti Peeth as Devi Sati's temple fell here.

There are three metal statues of Buddhist deities in yellow and orange.

A perfect co-ordination exists between the two religions. Morning and evening puja and prayer are conducted by the Hindu priest. After this is over, it is handed over to the Buddhist nun who handles the services for rest of the day.
Buddhist nuns here are considered as a symbol of Dakinis or celestial dancers who transported the souls of dead to sky.

Buddha is also considered as the last incarnation of Vishnu hence this place is very much revered by Buddhists. That is why you would see many prayer flags around the temple.

Bells hang all around the temple

On the side is a room where yak butter lamps are lit by Buddhists

a small Ganesha shrine just behind the main sanctum

Shiva temple

There is a wonderful co-existence of Vishnu, Ganesha and Shiva in the same temple complex.

Gandaki river is fed by melting snow. Freezing water enters through the 108 cows mouth (gaumukh- गौमुख) arranged in a semi-circle behind the temple.

Diffferently shaped cows mouth.

Muktidhara (मुक्तिधारा) or the stream of salvation

Bathing in muktidhara (मुक्तिधारा) or at least splashing with it is said to bring salvation. Buddhists believe that Guru Rinpoche ( Padmasambhav) meditated here and got enlightenment before going to Tibet in the 12th century. Bathing under this water is considered to ward off all sins.

A devotee filling his bottle with holy water.

Bathing in the two ponds ( kunda- कुण्ड ) in front of the temple is said to remove past sins. Freezing water flows from the water spouts.

We went during Shraddh (श्राद्ध) or the period dedicated to remembering ancestors - a fifteen day period. we saw people doing special prayer rituals for them.

They come here praying that their dear departed ones seek salvation.

I am rewinding my memory and thought of highlighting a few points which I feel I missed or came to know after I had already made my visit. It might come useful to pilgrims making a trip there.

• a word of caution for people who have backaches or travel sickness. the journey from Jomsom to Muktinath is physically very challenging.
• carry a cap and dark glasses. The sun is very strong so applying sun screen helps. My husband ignored it and by evening he was all sun burnt.
• the wind is dry so a lip balm is useful
• popping a couple of aspirin before the commencement of journey helps in thinning blood. The high altitude and rarified air makes one breathless very fast.
• wear comfortable footwear but also keep in mind that they would become very dirty with the fine dust.
• take short steps and breathe deeply. If option is available, avoid going up steps. You gain altitude fast by walking up steps.
• keep on taking small sips of water. The empty bottle becomes useful in bringing back the holy water.
• carry some snacks. Nothing is available at Muktinath.
• take a change of clothes if you plan to bathe (and a plastic bag to carry back your wet clothes).
• the journey from Jomsom to Muktinath is a little over one hour. Wear clothes, which if needed, can be discarded. They get badly spoilt.
• For those, who do not walk all the distance, there are mules available near the jeep terminus. They take the pilgrims for some fee. Also, motor bikes ply for that distance.
• People have experienced supernatural things at Narsimha Gompa or Mharme Lha Khang Gompa. If you are spiritually inclined pay your respects to Padmasambhava. He meditated at Muktinath. I would be writing in detail about this gompa in my next post.
• We were told there is no proper place to stay at Ranipauwa. But we saw few hotels there. If, you are not particular about food, break your journey. Attend morning and evening aarti at Muktinath. You will have to walk almost 30 minutes to reach the place.
• The last jeep and bus leave at 4 PM so plan your journey that way, but in case you miss your transport, there is a very basic Dharamshaala ( a place for pilgrims or travellers to stay) near the jeep terminus. It has been made under India-Nepal Economic Cooperation  Program (picture in my next blog post)

Having bathed in the freezing water and paying my respects to the deity, and praying that I make another visit some time, we return back to Jomsom.

There are many temples in Muktinath. My next post would be Places to visit in Muktinath, Nepal