Bach Ma temple, Hanoi

One of the very important temple in the Old Quarter is Bach Ma temple. It is said to be one of the oldest temple in Hanoi and is one of the four guarding temples. The four guarding temples in four directions including Bach Ma temple are  Quan Thanh temple, Kim Lien temple, Voi Phuc temple. They protected Thang Long(ancient name of Hanoi) from evil spirits.

Bach Ma temple is the protector of east direction.

The temple has been renovated many times. During the French colonists, because of the belief of people, the French colonists in the 19th century dared not ravage it. For this reason, the temple still retains the grandeur of the Nguyen architecture.

 

Again, during the US-Vietnam war, B52 bombs were hurled in the North of Vietnam. This brought about a lot of destruction in Hanoi. Most of the Old Quarter was destroyed but this temple remained unscathed. This further strengthened the beliefs of people in this temple.

 temple seen across the road

Legend and History of the Bach Ma temple:

In the 9th century, during Tang dynasty, a Vietnamese Mandarin, Long Do helped people fight against domination by Cao Bien, General of China's Tang died. People in his memory decided to build a temple.

The temple was named Lon Do and changed to Bach Ma.

In 1010, during the reign of Emperor Ly Thai To (A huge statue of his stands opposite Hoan Kiem lake in Hanoi) who ruled from 1009 to 1028 decided to shift his capital for Hoa Lu to Thang Long. Many attempts to build the citadel were unsuccessful as the walls kept on falling down. The emperor one day dreamt in which he saw the deity telling him that a horse would come out of the temple. He would wander around the city and leave tracks along which the citadel's walls should be built.

The King followed the instructions and the citadel was constructed.

After this, King Ly Cong appointed god Long Do as the protective deity of Thang Long. The white horse became a sacred symbol of Bach Ma temple.

The temple is believed to be so sacred that the French colonialists in the 19th century did not have the courage to vandalize or even relocate it. Since then Bach Ma has made a special place in Hanoi.

main entrance with a three-door gate

The one floor temple's roof of temple is decorated with yin and yang in center flanked by golden dragons.

 

 

layout of temple

ceiling of temple

The ceiling is beautifully decorated with golden dragons.

 drum near the temple

stone stele hidden by the drum

 

 beautiful bonsai with pomelos

 

mountain lion

 Nghê

dragon on the opposite side

Mountain lion and dragon on either side of temple  entrance are seen almost in every Vietnamese temple. Is there any significance or is it just for aesthetic sense?

The mountain lion, sometimes seen as Nghê or mythical lion at places are temple guardians placed at entrances to protect against negative energies

The dragon on other side represents supreme power, and is linked to water, rain in agricultural beliefs.

The placement of each on either side, represents a balance between flying dragon (sky and water) and lion (earth), this making sure that the place is safe and secure from all sides.

Inside the temple:

There are 3 halls each behind the other.

entrance to 1st hall

 a bronze incense burning urn

The first hall is the Shrine of White Horse.

 

 

offerings on table

Shrine of White Horse

The white horse which led to the location of shrine is also worshiped here.

Two bronze crane on turtle symbolizing the harmony of yin and yang stand on both side of the horse.

 ancient weapons

Legend of the White Horse:

The shrine of the White Horse is the most important one, no doubt the name of the temple says that. Bach Ma means the "White Horse". It is the same horse who guided King Ly Thai to the location as the city walls would give away everytime it was constructed.

 Every year Bach Ma temple Festival is held on the 13th day of the second lunar month. A procession is taken out of the horse, Bach Ma on the palanquin on which it stands.

 the white horse

gong rack 

traditional dragon at the ends

bell at temple

Shrine of Long Do:

The second hall is dedicated to Long Do God. Long Do is the god of Long Do mountain, one of deities of Vietnam.

It is also believed that Long Do is a mysterious character who appeared in front of Cao Pian, who was 9th century Chinese Mandarin and Cao Pian built this temple of Long Do to please him following a bad storm.

 2nd hall, shrine of Long Do

shrine of Long Do, sadly only the throne was there

The image is said to be carved from wood and is painted gold.

3rd room at the back

Shrine of Mau Thoai:

The third shrine is dedicated to Mẫu  Thoải who is the goddess of heavenly water palace.

3rd room, Shrine to Mẫu Thoải

the altar was dark so couldn't see anything inside

red lacquered palanquin

The wooden beams inside the temple is exquisitely decorated.

Like the beams, wooden pillars too are carved

While exiting, there is one stone stele which looks very similar to the steles in Temple of Literature.

 

Opening hours: 8:00 AM to 11:00 AM and 2:00 PM to 8:00 PM throughout the week

Entry fee: there is no entry fee

Dress code: This is an active temple, hence like all temples, visitors are expected to dress modestly. Shoulders and legs should be covered.

Terrace of Leper King, Angkor Thom

Another place visiting in Angkor is the Terrace of Leper King! or Preah Ponlea Sdach Komlong. This terrace has been named after a statue with an umbrella.

the whole stretch of wall carved

Terrace of the Leper King. Some Key Facts

Location:

• Hidden within Angkor Thom, the Terrace of the Leper King is one of the site's most intriguing monuments, located just north of the Terrace of the Elephants.

Historiacal background:

• The terrace was built approximately in the late 12th century, during the reign of King Jayavarman VII, a period which was marked by immense architecture and deep spiritual symbolism.

Origin of the name:

• The monument takes its name from the mysterious Leper King statue that once stood on the terrace and this gave the terrace its name.

But, Who is the “Leper King”?

• The statue’s white, patchy appearance led to the belief that it portrayed a king afflicted with leprosy—an interpretation that would shape its identity for centuries.
• Later identified by some scholars as Kubera, the God of Wealth
• But, the most widely accepted interpretation today:
• Dharmaraja, the King of Justice who is associated with Yama, the God of Death
• The name Dharmaraja is inscribed at the base of the original statue.
• The original statue is now in the National Museum in Phnom Penh, the statue on the terrace today is a replica

Discoloration mystery:

• The statue’s appearance may be due to mold and centuries of weathering
• The “leprosy” look may not have been intentional

Architectural significance

• The terrace represents Mount Meru, the cosmic center of the universe in Hindu and Buddhist belief
• Stretching approximately 25 meters, the terrace walls are richly covered with intricate sculptural reliefs, making the site as visually compelling as it is symbolic.

Unique structural feature

• It consists of both an outer wall and an inner wall
• The inner wall is older
• It was buried for centuries and rediscovered later in 1960's, revealing remarkably preserved carvings
• The carvings include multi-headed naga, demons, royal figures, apsaras. 
• The outer walls however are different, it has scenes of palace life, a sword swallower, Shiva holding a trident.

Why it stands out

• Combines myth, symbolism, and archaeology
• One of Angkor’s most mysterious and visually striking terraces

The Story of the Terrace of the Leper King

• Hidden within Angkor Thom, the Terrace of the Leper King is one of the site’s most intriguing monuments, located just north of the Terrace of the Elephants.
• The terrace was built in the late 12th century, during the reign of King Jayavarman VII, a period marked by ambitious architecture and deep spiritual symbolism.
• The monument takes its name from the mysterious “Leper King” statue that once stood on the terrace and immediately captured the imagination of visitors and scholars alike.
• The statue’s white, patchy appearance led to the belief that it portrayed a king afflicted with leprosy—an interpretation that would shape its identity for centuries.
• Over time, many theories emerged about who the figure actually represents:
• Some believed it depicted King Yasovarman I, rumored to have suffered from leprosy.
• Others identified it as Kubera, the Hindu God of Wealth.
• Today, the most widely accepted view is that the figure represents Dharmaraja, the King of Justice, also associated with Yama, the God of Death.
• This identification is supported by the name Dharmaraja, which is inscribed at the base of the original statue, now preserved in the National Museum in Phnom Penh. The statue seen on the terrace today is a replica.
• It is also likely that the statue’s discolored appearance was caused by centuries of weathering and mold, rather than depiction of disease.
• Beyond the statue, the terrace itself holds deep symbolic meaning, representing Mount Meru, the sacred mountain believed to be the center of the universe in Hindu and Buddhist cosmology.

outer wall

sculptings on outer wall

multi-head Naga on inner wall

multi-head Naga on outer wall

outer wall

The lower tier has celestial beings with lotus in their hands

sword swallower

Lord Shiva

On the side, if you notice carefully, are sculptings of marine life as fish, crocodiles. Did this area ever serve as a pool?

This side has scenes from day today life. On the side are two women doing some house chore. In the center is a sword swallower, a man beating a drum and next are two women talking to each other.

Apsara carvings on inner wall

view of the inner wall from above

Inner wall sculptures:

The Leper King:

On the terrace sits a lone statue of The Leper King.

The statue has white colored patches which gives an impression of its having leprosy.  But whom does it represent?

It was earlier believed to be a former King as Yasovaraman I had leprosy. It was then believed to be of Kuber, the God of Wealth. The most suited description fits with Dharmaraja, the Dharma King or Yama, the God of Death. The name Dharmaraja is etched at the bottom of original statue which is now in the National Museum in Phnom Penh. This one is a copy of the original. Maybe, probably with time the stone has collected mold giving it a discolored look.

The statue sits with its right leg raised, the other knee touching the ground. His left hand rests on his left knee. Its body is draped in a yellow cloth. There appears to be space in its hands, as though it once held an object. If this figure represents Yama, the Hindu "God of Death", it should be holding a mace.

Due to tropical weathering and the effect of lichens on stone, the statue became discolored due to corrosion. This gave the effect of a skin disease. Moreover, since the direction is north, it is assumed to be a person of royalty. The Leper King was thus born and the statue came to be known popularly as the "The Leper King"

The hair is knotted, and the figure sports a prominent moustache. Its canine teeth protrude slightly, lending it a fearsome appearance.

But why would there be a statue of Yama in this place? It stands to the north of the Royal Palace, a direction traditionally reserved for royal cremations. Val Prah Men is a pavilion prepared for funeral pyres. Could this site mark the pavilion where royalty were cremated? The grounds below would have allowed the public to gather and pay their last respects to the deceased.

Was the area supposed to publicly punish the criminals? The exact reason for this terrace still seems not very clear.

view of Terrace of Elephants from here

view of terrace from car park

Moving south from here is the Terrace of Elephants.