To the west of Bayon is a three-tiered temple, the Baphoun. Standing at 34 meters height, it symbolizes Mount Meru.
History:
The temple of Baphuon was built in mid 11th century, around during the reign of King Udayadityavarman II (1050-1066) who made Yasodharapura his capital. This was used as a state temple by him. It was dedicated to Lord Shiva with a golden Shiva linga at the top.
In 15 century, Buddhism became the dominant religion of Khmer kingdom and the temple was converted to a Buddhist temple with a 70 meter reclining Buddha at its west side.
It was soon abandoned in the 16th century.
Like most of the temples, it was abandoned sometime in the 16th century.
The size of temple is ranked second in the world after Angkor Wat.
Chinese visitors and travellers have called this temple the "Golden Mountain". Parts of this temple were covered with bronze or gold
Etymology:
What does the word Baphoun mean? The word Ba Phoun might be a Khmerization of Sanskrit word, "Brahm Bhuvantilaka" ( ब्रह्म भुवनतिलक). Brahm means the supreme.
Bhuvantilaka is made of two words, Bhuvan (भुवन ): meaning, world, universe or palace. If you again break the word, then bhu means earth, so a place on earth.
From its mythological meaning, bhuvan means a place for Lord Shiva or Vishnu to live.
Tilaka (तिलक ): in architectural language means a crown.
So, from architectural point of view, Bhuvantilaka refers to a temple architecture which is elevated with layered tiers and concentric galleries.
We again go back to the root word, and the word Bhuvantilaka fits in with the Khmerization of Baphoun.
- It is the abode of Lord Shiva
- is made in layered tiers
- has concentric galleries
Architecture:
- It was built to represent Mount Meru, the mythological abode of Hindu gods.
- It had very steep, vertical stone stairs.
- Built on receding three-tiered platform, it has steps on all its sides. But now, narrow and steep wooden stairs have been put.
- The172 meter walkway from entrance gopura to third enclosure was via a sandstone walkway supported on cylindrical pillars
- above the third enclosure, another steep platform and on top of it the first enclosure.
- the place was covered with bas-reliefs, some of what still remain
- when the state religion became Buddhist, stones from collapsed part of the west side was used to make a 70 meter long and 9 meters high reclining Buddha. Being unstable, the reclining image could not be completed.
- Which king converted Baphoun to a Buddhist site is not clear but it was some time in late 15th century.
- Baphoun had already collapsed by the time restoration began in the early 20th century using anastylosis. It was a mammoth task. Labelling and putting block of stones around 300,000 was not easy.
- In 1970, a civil war brought the work to a standstill and even the labelled stones were destroyed during Khmer Rouge
- Another attempt to restore the place started in 1996 and finally it was opened to public in 2011.
What lead to temple collapse?
- the temple was built on land filled with very soft soil and the foundation could not take the burden of this massive structure. It started collapsing very soon.
western side of gopura
surviving devta carving on west side
devtas on either side of gopura
Immediately a 172 meter terrace begins from here with water on both sides. Apparently, the bridge was flanked by naga balustrade and I can imagine how beautiful the causeway must have looked. The bridge was destroyed during the Khmer Rouge so that the temple could not be protected.
On the south, is a rectangular laterite lined basin. What could have been the purpose of having a basin beside a temple? It was probably used by priests and royalties to wash and purifying themselves before entering the inner sanctum.
The terrace connects with another gopura
part of remaining pilaster
leaves on this column
The three tiered temple has three enclosures. Outermost is the third enclosure, then the second and just below the prasat is the first enclosure.
Third enclosure:
The third enclosure must be galleried earlier but only the pillars remain. It had entrances on all four sides.
south library and remains of a southern shrine
library
The passage is galleried in sections. Most of them have not survived.
surviving vine scroll on archway
Second enclosure:
Steep wooden steps lead to second enclosure. I was not prepared for the climb and pondered whether I would be able to do it.
The steps are not only steep but are narrow as well
Reliefs of Hindu mythology:
Very easy to miss, the bas-relief panels are outside the temple walls of second encloure.
The above panel shows an episode from Ramayana
Middle section: fight between Bali and Sugreev
Last section: slaying of Bali by Rama
war scenes from Ramayana
animals on bas-relief
more animals on panel
First enclosure:
Oops, another flight of steps! On reaching the second enclosure turn southwards and again there are steep steps leading to first enclosure. Honestly, it is a daunting task to climb up. You have to focus on how and where you put your feet. One misplacement and you go tumbling down. But, I had to do it or else I would have regretted not climbing up throughout my life!
going up to first enclosure
the first enclosure has only standing pillars
gopura in the first enclosure
view of gopura in the second enclosure
remains of covered corridor
view of temple grounds
gopura in the third enclosure in center
Single sanctuary prasat:
On the top is a platform measuring 42 meters by 63 meters. It is single sanctuary and nothing much of it now remains.
It is said to have a golden Shiva linga. The platform had gopura on all its four sides.
though there is a way to go up but the access is cordoned off
Not much remains of prasat on top except for a surviving door frame
Unfinished reclining Buddha on the west side:
After coming down, walk towards the west side. The reclining Buddha is not very clear so one has to stand and focus to see the features of face.
I took this picture when I visited the place the first time
the next time I went, I had a problem focussing, maybe the stones have fallen more
The reclining Buddha is not complete and one sees only a part.
Gopura on the west side:
Running along the wall is a gopura, which is not in a very good condition.
side view of gopura with naga on side. The rest is all broken.
west gopura
There are small reliefs of animals, vines, flowers. In the center stands a dwarapala or temple guardian
blocks of stone
Restoration of Baphoun:
The temple when "discovered" in sixties, was in a very bad shape with fallen blocks of stone, temple taken over by vines.
It was first decided to demolish the entire structure since restructuring it would have been a lot of work. But, demolishing such a huge temple takes a tough decision, so it was decided to start separating the stone block and numbering them.
After around 3,000 stones had been numbered, Khmer Rouge put an end to its repair and again any effort to reconstruct Baphoun was left. The hard part that all the work done so far was destroyed.
In 1995, the work of restoration again began and finally in 2011, the temple was thrown open to public to visit.
