Bach Ma temple, Hanoi

One of the very important temple in the Old Quarter is Bach Ma temple. It is said to be one of the oldest temple in Hanoi and is one of the four guarding temples. The four guarding temples in four directions including Bach Ma temple are  Quan Thanh temple, Kim Lien temple, Voi Phuc temple. They protected Thang Long(ancient name of Hanoi) from evil spirits.

Bach Ma temple is the protector of east direction.

The temple has been renovated many times. During the French colonists, because of the belief of people, the French colonists in the 19th century dared not ravage it. For this reason, the temple still retains the grandeur of the Nguyen architecture.

 

Again, during the US-Vietnam war, B52 bombs were hurled in the North of Vietnam. This brought about a lot of destruction in Hanoi. Most of the Old Quarter was destroyed but this temple remained unscathed. This further strengthened the beliefs of people in this temple.

 temple seen across the road

Legend and History of the Bach Ma temple:

In the 9th century, during Tang dynasty, a Vietnamese Mandarin, Long Do helped people fight against domination by Cao Bien, General of China's Tang died. People in his memory decided to build a temple.

The temple was named Lon Do and changed to Bach Ma.

In 1010, during the reign of Emperor Ly Thai To (A huge statue of his stands opposite Hoan Kiem lake in Hanoi) who ruled from 1009 to 1028 decided to shift his capital for Hoa Lu to Thang Long. Many attempts to build the citadel were unsuccessful as the walls kept on falling down. The emperor one day dreamt in which he saw the deity telling him that a horse would come out of the temple. He would wander around the city and leave tracks along which the citadel's walls should be built.

The King followed the instructions and the citadel was constructed.

After this, King Ly Cong appointed god Long Do as the protective deity of Thang Long. The white horse became a sacred symbol of Bach Ma temple.

The temple is believed to be so sacred that the French colonialists in the 19th century did not have the courage to vandalize or even relocate it. Since then Bach Ma has made a special place in Hanoi.

main entrance with a three-door gate

The one floor temple's roof of temple is decorated with yin and yang in center flanked by golden dragons.

 

 

layout of temple

ceiling of temple

The ceiling is beautifully decorated with golden dragons.

 drum near the temple

stone stele hidden by the drum

 

 beautiful bonsai with pomelos

 

mountain lion

 Nghê

dragon on the opposite side

Mountain lion and dragon on either side of temple  entrance are seen almost in every Vietnamese temple. Is there any significance or is it just for aesthetic sense?

The mountain lion, sometimes seen as Nghê or mythical lion at places are temple guardians placed at entrances to protect against negative energies

The dragon on other side represents supreme power, and is linked to water, rain in agricultural beliefs.

The placement of each on either side, represents a balance between flying dragon (sky and water) and lion (earth), this making sure that the place is safe and secure from all sides.

Inside the temple:

There are 3 halls each behind the other.

entrance to 1st hall

 a bronze incense burning urn

The first hall is the Shrine of White Horse.

 

 

offerings on table

Shrine of White Horse

The white horse which led to the location of shrine is also worshiped here.

Two bronze crane on turtle symbolizing the harmony of yin and yang stand on both side of the horse.

 ancient weapons

Legend of the White Horse:

The shrine of the White Horse is the most important one, no doubt the name of the temple says that. Bach Ma means the "White Horse". It is the same horse who guided King Ly Thai to the location as the city walls would give away everytime it was constructed.

 Every year Bach Ma temple Festival is held on the 13th day of the second lunar month. A procession is taken out of the horse, Bach Ma on the palanquin on which it stands.

 the white horse

gong rack 

traditional dragon at the ends

bell at temple

Shrine of Long Do:

The second hall is dedicated to Long Do God. Long Do is the god of Long Do mountain, one of deities of Vietnam.

It is also believed that Long Do is a mysterious character who appeared in front of Cao Pian, who was 9th century Chinese Mandarin and Cao Pian built this temple of Long Do to please him following a bad storm.

 2nd hall, shrine of Long Do

shrine of Long Do, sadly only the throne was there

The image is said to be carved from wood and is painted gold.

3rd room at the back

Shrine of Mau Thoai:

The third shrine is dedicated to Mẫu  Thoải who is the goddess of heavenly water palace.

3rd room, Shrine to Mẫu Thoải

the altar was dark so couldn't see anything inside

red lacquered palanquin

The wooden beams inside the temple is exquisitely decorated.

Like the beams, wooden pillars too are carved

While exiting, there is one stone stele which looks very similar to the steles in Temple of Literature.

 

Opening hours: 8:00 AM to 11:00 AM and 2:00 PM to 8:00 PM throughout the week

Entry fee: there is no entry fee

Dress code: This is an active temple, hence like all temples, visitors are expected to dress modestly. Shoulders and legs should be covered.

Terrace of Elephants, Angkor Thom

The Terrace of Elephants served as a ceremonial platform. It was built by King Jayavarman VII toward the end of the 12th century, with later kings adding to the structure.

The terrace is believed to have once supported wooden pavilions and viewing galleries, from where the king and his court could observe public ceremonies, processions, and parades. These wooden structures, however, could not withstand the passage of time and no longer survive.

This ceremonial U-shaped place runs for a distance of 300 meters north to south. 

Structural plan of terrace:

The terrace has five projections, or perrons, spaced at intervals along its length. The central perron is positioned directly in front of the Royal Palace.

Grand entrance to Royal Palace or the central perron:

Of the five perrons, the central one is the largest and most prominent, aligned with the Royal Palace. A grand staircase, guarded by lion sculptures, leads up to this perron. The staircase opens onto a terrace that forms part of the Royal Palace complex behind it.

The tiers of platform:

The first platform has carvings of Garuda alternating with standing lions. Naga platform forms a balustrade throughtout the whole length of terrace.

The second platform which rises 1 meter has asuras and devas.

The third platform again rises slightly has two lions on its side.

The fourth level has nothing much left.

base of first platform with garuda and lions with naga balustrade

first tier with garuda and lions, two lions sit on each side

The second tier is decorated with asuras and devtas

the second platform with asuras and devas

first and second platform, asuras and devtas on this platform

After few steps, the platform rises by 1 meter for the third platform. It again rises slightly after few steps.

third platform, sides of steps are flanked by standing lions. Straight in front is the east entrance to Royal Palace.There must have been scuptures in this area but with time, only big stones are witness to time.

fourth level, nothing remains now, partial remains of naga balustrade

entrance to Royal Palace in front of fourth terrace

naga balustrade, terrace looking to Victory Gate

Purpose of the terrace:

The Royal Palace stands directly behind the terrace, and the ruling king is believed to have come here regularly to appear before his subjects.

Parade grounds:

The vast open grounds in front of the terrace served as a venue for games, ceremonial processions, and festivals. They were also used to honor victorious armies returning from battle.

As an Audience platform:

The terrace likely supported a wooden roof, which has not survived the passage of time. From this elevated platform, the king addressed the people, heard petitions, and resolved the concerns of his subjects.

Lesser perron or south perron

Flanking the central perron are four smaller ones, each with a staircase leading up to a raised platform.

Three large elephant heads project outward from the wall. Their trunks extend downward to form pillars reaching the ground. These sculptures closely resemble the elephant heads seen at the South gate at Angkor Thom.

Large elephant heads protrude out of wall

Elephant head sculptures:

Large elephant heads project outward from the wall. These elephants represent Airavata, the divine mount of Indra.

The trunks of these elephants touch the ground to form a base. Their heads have an ornamental piece suggesting ceremonial elephants.

Carvings of Garuda and lions:

The terrace walls are richly carved with figures of Garuda alternating with lions, adding to the monument’s symbolic and ceremonial grandeur.

alternate lion and Garuda carvings

alternate garuda and lionstanding Garuda and lion carvings along the wall

Naga balustrade:

The entire length of the platform is bordered by a naga balustrade, enhancing the terrace’s ceremonial and symbolic character.

Elephant carvings on Southern grand staircase or South Peron:

In one section, the wall is decorated with a series of elephant sculptures carved in relief.

 

In another section, a elephant head protruding along with cavings

elephant head coming out of the wall

The place is so named as the wall has many elephant carvings on the eastern side. It extends from Baphuon in south to Terrace of Leper King in north.

On careful observation, you can clearly see mahout on elephants, hunting scenes, elephants fighting.

Northern Grand staircase or North Peron:

This platform near the terrace of Leper King is perhaps the grandest of all the staircases. On the side wall are beautifully sculpted features.

The peron has two lions on either side.

On the lower side are three trunks of elephants coming out of wall. On both sides, are carvings of apsara and garuda.

Garuda and lion grace the lower tier, whereas just above them are apsaras.

numerous carvings of Apsara

steps leading to upper side to the lotus seat from the side of Terrace of Leper King

South to the Terrace of Leper King, are a flight of steps leading to upper floor, guardians on side

side wall

sculptures on side of stairs

The sculptures portray men wrestling, chariots, and scenes of everyday life.

Upper side:

The centerpiece here is a high rostrum with three elephants heads on either side of a lotus seat. The terrace face east towards the Victory Gate.

lotus seat in center, two three headed elephants on sides

The lotus seat suggests that an image was placed here. The image is missing. Was the image that of Buddha or some other God?

broken pieces on floor. Are the holes in stones made for parasols for Kings?

The elephants here are slightly different.

The three large elephant heads project from the wall. Their trunks are adorned with ornamental bands, suggesting the golden headpieces traditionally placed on ceremonial elephants, bells hang from their neck and each trunk hold lotus buds.

On either side of the elephants, the walls are sculpted with apsaras.

carvings with apsara and kalmukha below the lotus seat

In between the three-headed elephants, is seen a kalamukha surrounded by a collection of devtas, apsaras. 

On the side stand standing apsaras

naga balustrade

floor pf terrace

Prasat Sour Prat:

How can one miss not seeing tower like structures in front of the Terrace of Elephants and Terrace of the Leper King?

These are series of 12 laterite towers on the east of Royal Palace or one can say on the opposite side across the road. No archeological evidence, inscription, stele or any information has been found of these towers. It is believed to be built probably around 12th-13th century.

Prasat Sour Prat on either side of road to Victory Gate

The Victory Avenue divides the row of towers into two parts with 6 towers on its each side.

Purpose and construction of Prasat Sour Prat:

The architecture of these towers is very different than temple, so they obviously did not serve as a place for worship.

The size of tower diminish in size as it goes up.

All towers have one big window and  doors face the west. The door in each tower open into a single room with one big window. The doors face west.

The purpose and even the exact name of these towers is still not very clear.

Divine Judgement:

It is supposed that these towers served as a place to make peace between two people. Whenever two people had a disagreement, they would be forced to sit with each other in one of the towers for four days.

During this time, the person who had wronged would start feeling sick from stomach issues, cold and fever. The person who was right would remain healthy. The purpose does not seem logical but it is said to be closest reason.

There are so many places to take pictures. Any number of photographs taken always feels less. A place worth visiting.