The Nepal earthquake on 25th April, 2015 has taken not only thousands of lives, brought down houses but has demolished the cultural heritage of Nepal. Nepal has three major old cities, Bhaktapur being the oldest followed by Patan and Basantpur. All three are part of a vast UNESCO heritage site. The Kings in these places built many buildings and temples. Most of these temples were congregated at the Durbar Square in each of these places. The purpose was that the public did not have to go to far off places to pray. It also served a place where the King could view his public and also address them. Significant sentiments of people are attached to all these places.
Some of the temples in the three Durbar Squares may not be active, that means they are valued more for their architecture and beautiful carvings. Apart from Durbar Squares there are many temples all over Nepal and two famous Buddhist stupas, Boudhnatha and Swayambhunath. All these places have suffered heavy structural losses.
The pictures before the disaster have been taken by me but after the shocks, I have taken snapshots from newspapers, CNN, Hindustan Times, BBC, The Himalayan and Kathmandu Post. The tragedy is that around 15 UNESCO heritage demarcated temples have perished. I have already written about the following monuments in my earlier blog posts, Bhaktapur, Nepal , Durbar square, Basantpur,Durbar square continued, Basantpur, Patan Durbar Square, Nepal
I would be writing about two major stupas of Nepal, Boudhanatha and Swayambhunatha in my upcoming posts.
What I show below is just a small portion of the destruction caused, the actual damage has been far more extensive with many more old structures damaged or totally destroyed.
BASANTPUR AND HANUMAN DHOKA DURBAR SQUARE:
Commonly known as the Kathmandu Durbar Square, this place had a plethora of beautiful temples. Some temples were built around 300 years back. The temples are a reflection of Malla and Shah Kings. I visited all three Durbar Squares on my last visit to Nepal in August 2014. Many temples and buildings have either been badly destroyed or have been razed to ground.
Kashtamandap:
The 400 year old three-storied Kashtamandap after which Kathmandu takes its name has been completely razed.
The building has collapsed but notice the stone Shivalinga and Buddha remain untouched.
Pratap Malla column:
A part of Hanuman Dhokha Durbar Square, King Pratap Malla column faces the Taleju Bhawani temple, the clan deity of Malla kingdom.
In the above picture, King Pratap Malla sits with his family facing Devi Taleju Bhawani temple. After the quake, King Malla's statue lies on the ground.
Trailokyamohan /Dasavatar temple:
I took the above photo in August 2014. I have placed arrows to the temples /monuments destroyed. The first arrow points to Hari Shankar temple, then you see Yoganarendra Malla column. The third temple Char-Narayan which perished is a little behind Hari Shankar temple and cannot be seen in this photo.
Yoganarendra Malla column:
King Yoganarendra Malla sits with his two queens facing the Goddess Taleju temple.
Hari Shankar temple:
This beautiful 3-tiered temple fell to the wrath of the earthquake.
Bhumikas, lotus and umbrella destroyed
Swayambhunatha Stupa:
Pratappur tower destroyed
Two towers, Pratappur and Anantpur built by King Pratap Malla in the 17th century stand on either side of the Swayambhunatha Stupa. Pratappur tower was earlier damaged by lightening in 2011. It was renovated but this time it succumbed to the tremors of earthquake.
This view welcomes visitors from the other entrance
Lord Buddha sits calmly surrounded by rubble. Source: The Hindustan Times
stone elephant from Fasidega temple
old temple bell, Source: The Indian Express
beautiful carving of Krishna on wood
Nepal has a vast treasure of beautiful things that would fetch a very high price in the international market. It is very easy for people to succumb to such a temptation and unfortunately there are many of that sort. Let us pray that Nepal's great cultural heritage can be prevented for being stolen and sold off to rich collectors around the world.
Some of the temples in the three Durbar Squares may not be active, that means they are valued more for their architecture and beautiful carvings. Apart from Durbar Squares there are many temples all over Nepal and two famous Buddhist stupas, Boudhnatha and Swayambhunath. All these places have suffered heavy structural losses.
The pictures before the disaster have been taken by me but after the shocks, I have taken snapshots from newspapers, CNN, Hindustan Times, BBC, The Himalayan and Kathmandu Post. The tragedy is that around 15 UNESCO heritage demarcated temples have perished. I have already written about the following monuments in my earlier blog posts, Bhaktapur, Nepal , Durbar square, Basantpur,Durbar square continued, Basantpur, Patan Durbar Square, Nepal
I would be writing about two major stupas of Nepal, Boudhanatha and Swayambhunatha in my upcoming posts.
What I show below is just a small portion of the destruction caused, the actual damage has been far more extensive with many more old structures damaged or totally destroyed.
BHAKTAPUR:
Built in 12th century, Bhaktapur is the oldest city of the old Nepal Kingdom. It was earlier devastated in the 1934 earthquake, where after it was built again. The buildings in the old city have to comply with the norms of municipal council. Outside the walled city, one is free to build houses as desired but inside the old city the construction must be as in antiquity. Below are some temples which were destroyed in the earthquake.
As soon as you enter the Durbar square, on to the right side are replicas of Chardham (four holy places) which a devout Hindu visits during his lifetime. Above is the Shiva temple, a replica of Kedarnath. The top has been destroyed.
Vatsala Devi Shikhar temple:
Built in 1696, the 300 years old Vatsala Devi temple is a Goddess Durga temple. It was rebuilt earlier as it was destroyed in the 1934 earthquake.
In the above picture, Taleju bell is safe but the beautiful temple has completely shattered.
All praise for the public of Bhaktapur who have now come forward to sort out the wreckage with bare hands. They do not want the cranes or a bulldozer to clear up as they say it is not simple debris. They are sorting the mound for artifacts and antiques, making sure they are not broken further. They plan to rebuilt this temple. Lot of care needs to be taken so that the precious artifacts do not get stolen or destroyed.
Built in 12th century, Bhaktapur is the oldest city of the old Nepal Kingdom. It was earlier devastated in the 1934 earthquake, where after it was built again. The buildings in the old city have to comply with the norms of municipal council. Outside the walled city, one is free to build houses as desired but inside the old city the construction must be as in antiquity. Below are some temples which were destroyed in the earthquake.
Picture of Bhaktapur taken in 2014
Shiva temple:
As soon as you enter the Durbar square, on to the right side are replicas of Chardham (four holy places) which a devout Hindu visits during his lifetime. Above is the Shiva temple, a replica of Kedarnath. The top has been destroyed.
Vatsala Devi Shikhar temple:
Built in 1696, the 300 years old Vatsala Devi temple is a Goddess Durga temple. It was rebuilt earlier as it was destroyed in the 1934 earthquake.
Temple as it stood
a snapshot from another angle
The Bhupatindra Malla column stands firm.
In the above picture, Taleju bell is safe but the beautiful temple has completely shattered.
All praise for the public of Bhaktapur who have now come forward to sort out the wreckage with bare hands. They do not want the cranes or a bulldozer to clear up as they say it is not simple debris. They are sorting the mound for artifacts and antiques, making sure they are not broken further. They plan to rebuilt this temple. Lot of care needs to be taken so that the precious artifacts do not get stolen or destroyed.
Fasidega temple:
Fasidega temple was a Shiva temple and is badly damaged.
BASANTPUR AND HANUMAN DHOKA DURBAR SQUARE:
Commonly known as the Kathmandu Durbar Square, this place had a plethora of beautiful temples. Some temples were built around 300 years back. The temples are a reflection of Malla and Shah Kings. I visited all three Durbar Squares on my last visit to Nepal in August 2014. Many temples and buildings have either been badly destroyed or have been razed to ground.
View of Basantpur Durbar Square. Source: The Himalayan
Kashtamandap:
The 400 year old three-storied Kashtamandap after which Kathmandu takes its name has been completely razed.
The building has collapsed but notice the stone Shivalinga and Buddha remain untouched.
Pratap Malla column:
A part of Hanuman Dhokha Durbar Square, King Pratap Malla column faces the Taleju Bhawani temple, the clan deity of Malla kingdom.
In the above picture, King Pratap Malla sits with his family facing Devi Taleju Bhawani temple. After the quake, King Malla's statue lies on the ground.
Trailokyamohan /Dasavatar temple:
Trailokyamohan temple, built in 1680 was a Vishnu temple. You can see Garuda, Vishnu's mount, sitting in front of the temple. Plenty of vegetable vendors used to sit near it. The post-earthquake picture shows the temple totally destroyed. Only Garuda still stands in its place.
Majudeval temple:
Three temples Majudeval, Vishnu temple and a small Kamdeva temple perished. Built in 1690, Majudeval was a Shiva temple. It was also a very favorite point for tourists and local public. Sitting at the top of stairs one got a very good view of the ground below.
The above is a screen shot which I took from CNN gallery. The picture really gives a perspective of the massive destruction that took place there.
Krishna temple:
Majudeval temple:
Three temples Majudeval, Vishnu temple and a small Kamdeva temple perished. Built in 1690, Majudeval was a Shiva temple. It was also a very favorite point for tourists and local public. Sitting at the top of stairs one got a very good view of the ground below.
An aerial view of the destroyed Durbar Square
The above is a screen shot which I took from CNN gallery. The picture really gives a perspective of the massive destruction that took place there.
Krishna temple:
The octagonal Krishna temple completely devastated.
Temple near Taleju Bhawani:
A small temple near the Taleju Bhawani gate could not withstand the tremors and collapsed.
PATAN DURBAR SQUARE:
Patan Durbar Square completely reflects the architecture of Malla Kingdom. The exception is the Krishna temple which is a shikar style temple.
Patan Durbar Square completely reflects the architecture of Malla Kingdom. The exception is the Krishna temple which is a shikar style temple.
Hari Shankar and Yoganarendra Malla column
Day after the earthquake. Source: The Himalayan
Yoganarendra Malla column:
King Yoganarendra Malla sits with his two queens facing the Goddess Taleju temple.
Hari Shankar temple:
This beautiful 3-tiered temple fell to the wrath of the earthquake.
The Taleju bell where I have put an arrow is undamaged. The elephants still sit undeterred. Around 12-15 people perished in this calamity. It was one of the favorite places of people to sit around and talk.
Char-Narayan / Jagannarayan temple:
Char-Narayan means four Narayans or Vishnu. It was visited by people to appreciate the beautiful wooden carvings.
Notice a toppled snow lion where I have put a red arrow.
Boudhnatha Stupa:
My post on Boudhnatha and Swayambhu Stupa is still in the draft folder. When I visited these places last year, I missed taking some pictures which I desperately wanted to put on my blog.
I visited them with renewed vigor two days before the earthquake struck. It was somehow impossible to believe when I saw the state of the monuments in newspaper the next day.
Since I am writing about the earthquake destruction, I will paste pictures before and after the quake. Maybe, next or the week after I shall write a full post on these two beautiful Buddhist monuments.
My post on Boudhnatha and Swayambhu Stupa is still in the draft folder. When I visited these places last year, I missed taking some pictures which I desperately wanted to put on my blog.
I visited them with renewed vigor two days before the earthquake struck. It was somehow impossible to believe when I saw the state of the monuments in newspaper the next day.
Since I am writing about the earthquake destruction, I will paste pictures before and after the quake. Maybe, next or the week after I shall write a full post on these two beautiful Buddhist monuments.
Bhumikas, lotus and umbrella destroyed
Top of side stupa destroyed
Swayambhunatha Stupa:
Swayambhunatha seems to have suffered the maximum damage. Since it is located on top of a hill, the impact of tremors was intensified.
Two towers, Pratappur and Anantpur built by King Pratap Malla in the 17th century stand on either side of the Swayambhunatha Stupa. Pratappur tower was earlier damaged by lightening in 2011. It was renovated but this time it succumbed to the tremors of earthquake.
Damaged Pratappur tower. Source: The Indian Express
Taking care of a statue
Monastery:
The Karma Raja Maha Vihara Monastery suffered damages on both its sides but the one next to another monastery could not withstand the tremors.
one of the damaged stupa
PRECIOUS ARTIFACTS AND ANTIQUES:
The biggest challenge now for the Government of Nepal and the Archaeological Department is the security of these precious masterpieces. It is near impossible to duplicate such old pieces.
An idol of Lord Ganesha half buried in debris, Source: The Hindustan Times
Nepal has a vast treasure of beautiful things that would fetch a very high price in the international market. It is very easy for people to succumb to such a temptation and unfortunately there are many of that sort. Let us pray that Nepal's great cultural heritage can be prevented for being stolen and sold off to rich collectors around the world.
But with the courage and endeavor of Nepalese, I am sure that the temples would soon return to their past glory.
I just hope the people are able to protect the statues and carving from getting to the wrong hand who will then sell to art dealers around the world not thinking its not just the theft of one master piece but the Nepal heritage
ReplyDeleteI am very grateful for this, have searched a lot to get more info on which temples have actually been damaged. Have visited Kathmandu many times and am almost afraid to go back now having to witness the destruction. Still, I have many friends in Nepal and their suffering and hardhips is always there. This part of the earthquake sadness, the destruction of history and art, is overwhelming as well. So thanks for the hard work that must have been put into assembling this post - one of the best I have found on the subject.
ReplyDeleteThanks Eric for encouraging and appreciating the post. It gives me a great deal of pleasure and confidence.
ReplyDeleteThis is so sad. The vast heritage destroyed
ReplyDelete