Doleshwar Mahadev, Nepal

A 45 minutes drive from Bhaktapur on an unpaved road takes you to Sipadol, home to Doleshwar Mahadeva temple.  It is believed to be the head part of Kedarnath. The torso of Lord Shiv is worshipped at Kedarnath.

entrance to temple premises

It is believed that after the victory of Pandavas over Kauravas in the battle of Kurukshetra, the Pandavas were overcome with guilt of being the cause of so many lives lost, they renounced their kingom and went to Mount Kailash, the abode of Lord Shiva to ask his forgiveness.

Shiva was unwilling to pardon them and to get away from the Pandavas, took the form of a bull. Pandavas, on realising that bull was none other than Lord Shiva, tried to stop Him by holding on his tail.  The head suddenly got separated, flew away and Pandavas could not trace it.

temple with Nandi sitting outside

The torso is worshipped at Kedarnath whereas the head is at Doleshwar. Let me not go into the archaeological similarities between the sculptures at both places.

lighting lamps and incense

Doleshwar Mahadev

The devastating floods in Uttarakhand, India in June 2013, caused severe damage to the temple at Kedarnath. A puja was organised here for those who died in the disaster.

View from the temple

roadside shops

Mankaamna devi temple by the road to Doleshwar

My next post is about durbar square in Patan and few temples I visited in Lalitpur, Patan Durbar Square, Nepal

Prasat Banteay Srei 2, Siem Reap

The causeway between Gopura IV and III leads to the second enclosure through a beautifully carved entrance or gopura III.

 map of second enclosure, not to scale

Eastern gopura III:

eastern gopura of the temple's second enclosure

Between the gopura III and II lies the moat. Moat around temples is a representation of the cosmic ocean, anantsagar (अनन्तसागर )

moat and passage leading to eastern gopura II

laterite blocks

Eastern gopura II:-

On entering this enclosure (east inner), on the pediment is GajLakshmi (#5) with elephants on either side of her. Gaja: elephant

Gaja-Lakshmi

On this pediment, Lakshmi, the consort of Vishnu is showered with water by two elephants holding a pot in their trunk.

Garuda, the mount of Vishnu on the lintel

Entering through the gopurams are seen Shivlinga yonis (#6)

empty Shiva yonis

A stone lotus flower, which is a representative of creation and is used to symbolize Vishnu, Brahma and Lakshmi.

straight ahead is entrance to central sanctuary

Since Shiva was the main temple deity, Nandi is seen sitting outside just in front of entrance.

Crossing the gopura #7, a damaged Nandi (#8 ), the mount of Lord Shiva is seen in a sitting position.

Nandi (badly damaged)

other view

Before the inner enclosure towards the south gallery, Shiva devouring Kaal can be seen on the lintel.

south gallery entrance

work on tympanum

 lintel showing Shiva devouring Kaala

After this, we enter the innermost enclosure.

contd. to Prasat Banteay Srie 3, Siem Reap

Prasat Banteay Srei 1, Siem Reap

One of the most beautiful temples in Angkor is Banteay Srei. It is 25 kms off track from the line of main temples in Angkor but it is definitely worth a visit.

Built in Angkor, Banteay Srei is a Shiva temple but surprisingly has been named Banteay Srei which means "Citadel of women". Srei is girl or women in Khmer so it is the temple of lady. It was built to honor female deities. But it is primarily a Shiva temple.

I fail to understand why a Shiv temple would be named so. Many interpretations have been considered since ages. Some saying that the work is so delicate that it could have been done only by female hands. I have seen very fine work done by men. 

Another theory suggests the standing devkanyas being the reason. Apart from these there are consorts of Shiva and Vishnu, maybe that was the reason. Whatever may be the reason for naming the temple, it has one of the most beautiful and intricate carvings on sandstone in Cambodia.

Some features of the temple:

• Most of the temples in Angkor have been built by ruling kings. Banteay Srei is the only temple which was not built by any king. It was built in 967 A.D. during the rule of King Rajendravarman II by his advisors Yajnavaraha and Vishnukumara. That means the construction of temple took place at least 150 years before Angor Wat!
• The temple was originally named Trilokbhuvaneshwara (त्रिलोकभुवनेश्वर), meaning the God of the three worlds( heaven, earth and hell) and in midst of a city called Ishvarpur(ईश्वरपुर) meaning the city of gods.
• It was primarily a Shiva temple facing south . Vishnu occupies the northern side.
• It seems to have been revered till 1303A.D., after which for reasons not clear it was abandoned.
• It was rediscovered in 1914 but the restoration started very late in 1930s.
• It is said to be the first temple in Angkor to have used anastylosis, which is a restoration technique used in archeology.
• One important feature of this temple is that complete scene from Ramanyana and Puranas have been depicted on pediments, which are triangular arches over a door.
• Made in red sandstone, the material is soft to etch but can withstand weathering for a long period. No doubt the temple still stands majestically .

Time line of various monuments throughout the world

red sandstone temple stands on the same color ground

rear view of temple surrounded by moat

After passing by a lotus pond and walking over red colored path we reach the eastern entrance of the temple. This is the main entrance. Just few interesting facts about the temple architecture.

• The temple has a main entrance to the east which leads to an enclosure surrounded by a moat. This entrance leads to another enclosure which further leads to the innermost or the sanctum santorum.
• Each entrance has a gopuram (which in simple term can be said to be a gateway which has either a tower or structure on top of it).
• Though the temple of Banteay Srie is not big as compared to the other temples of Angkor but the intricate etching on sandstone obtained from nearby Kulen mountains is one of the finest and a marvel to behold. A typical gopuram has a colonette which are the columns on either side. Then there are lintels which are horizontal beams on top of the gate. On top of the lintel is pediment which are usually triangular. The etching on a pediment is called a tympanum. I shall be mentioning these terms often in my post. Banteay Srie has the finest work on its pediments. 
• All of gopurams have a pediment which depicts a scene either from Ramayana or Mahabharata,  the two great epics in Hinduism.

Entering the temple:
We now move towards the temple. There are four enclosures and we enter through the outermost or the fourth enclosure.

Laterite and brick wall enclosing the temple with moat surrounding the temple. The picture shows the innermost or the third enclosure.

Eastern gopuram IV:

As is clear the temple entrance faces east. I have marked the points of interest in this enclosure.

map made not to scale

east side entrance

The pediment (#1) shows Indra on three headed Airawat or Erawan, his mount.

pediment on eastern gopura or entrance

Indra on three headed Airawat

how beautiful the carving is, naag with makar on side

close up, Indra on Airawat at the entrance pediment

a view of all enclosures

A causeway(#2) leads to eastern gopura III, straight ahead in the above picture. On the sides are rudiments of columns which once stood.

These columns enclosed the corridor leading to the temple. The columns probably got damaged by elephants roaming in that area.

On the right side (southern gallery) of causeway, the pediment shows Shiva and Uma on Nandi(#3).

Probably Nandi sat at the entrance

bas-relief on a tympanum called Uma-Maheshwar, showing Lord Shiva on Nandi with his consort, Parvati

a close up of Uma-Maheshwar

The face of Parvati or Uma has been damaged.

On to the left of causeway (northern gallery) is a scene of Narsimha, an avatar of Vishnu who is half lion and half man slaying the demon Harinyakashyapu, the father of Prahlad, a great devotee of Vishnu, (#4)

According to Vishnu Purana, one of the Hindu religious texts, Prahalada was a great devotee of Lord Vishnu. His father Hiranyakashyapu wanted to avenge the death of his brother, Hiranyaksh who was killed by Varahavatar, the third incarnation of Vishnu.

Hiranyakashyapu pleased Lord Brahma by his penance. When asked for a boon, Hiranyakashyapu asks for being immortal, which is not possible, so he asks he not be killed by any animal, human, inside or outside his house, during the day or night, neither on land or in sky, nor by any weapon. Brahma agrees to this. Fully assured that no one can kill him now as his conditions are impossible to fulfil, Hiranyakashyapu now forbids everyone in his kingdom to stop worshipping God and accept him as the Supreme.

His son, Prahlada is a great devotee of Lord Vishnu which is not tolerated by the father. When inspite of making him understand, Prahlad cotinues to worship Vishnu, he tries to kill his son in various ways by poisoning him, throwing him from mountain top, being trampled by elephants. When nothing worked, he asked his sister Holika to help him. Holika had recived a boon that she would not to be burnt by fire. So, Prahalada reciting his Lord's name sat on his aunt's lap on the burning pyre. To  great surprise, Holika got burnt and Prahalada is saved by the grace of his Lord. That day when Holika was burnt is celebrated as Holi amongst Hindus. It signifies the power of God's name and victory of good over evil.

Prahalada refused to accept Hiranyakashyapu as Supreme and kept on chanting the Lord's name. Tired one day of his son, Hiranyakashyapu asked his son, "Where does your Lord live?"  Everywhere, the son answered. "Does he live in this pillar?" and the son replied in affirmative.

Angered by now, Hiranyakashyapu strikes the pillar with his mace. With a huge roar, out comes Narsimha, the fourth incarnation of Vishnu.
Narsimha avatar is a form with the body of a human and face of a lion so is neither a human nor an animal. The pillar is in the courtyard which is neither inside or outside the house. The time is twilight which is neither day or night.
He takes Hiranyakashyapu on his lap which is neither land nor sky. With long claws which is no weapon, he tears his chest and slays him. Strange are the ways of God and whatever we may do, He finds a way to do his will.

damaged part of tympanum with Lakshmi

A lintel with Varun, son of sage Kashyap and God of ocean /water lies on the ground

a tympanum being assembled, makar on the side

Walking the rest of causeway leads to east gopura III. A boundary from this enclosure surrounds the moat and inner enclosures.

contd. to Prasat Banteay Srie 2, Siem Reap

Candi Shiva, Prambanan temple

This post is in continuation of  Candi Prambanan, Yogyakarta . The post was getting too long so I have split it in parts. Since, Prambanan is primarily a Shiva temple, I shall focus on the Shiva temple in this post.

Ruins of Shiv temple

 Shiva statue

This 37x37x47 meter east facing temple is the highest and biggest temple in the Prambanan complex. This is also the only structure which has entrances in the 4 cardinal directions and also houses 3 other small temples.

entrance to Shiva temple

The "Prambanan panel" with Kinnars at entrance. I have written in detail about this in my earlier post,  Candi Prambanan, Yogyakarta

Makars on either side of entrance

Shiv temple, other entrance

One doorway with an ascetic meditating under Kaal

Kaal at one of the entrances of Shiva temple

Before you reach the main sanctum sanctorum or the garbhgriha (गर्भगृह) or the chamber which houses the main deity, turn to the left. The balustrade and walls are adorned with reliefs from Ramayana, the story about Lord Rama and his wife Sita. It is absolutely impossible to put all the pictures in this post. I am uploading just a few of them.

Rama goes into exile with his wife, Sita and brother Lakshman

Hanuman burning Lanka with his tail

 Sita sitting in Ashoka Vatika on the right side 

fight between Bali and Sugreev

Rama kills Bali

Making bridge (Setu) to cross the Indian Ocean to reach Lanka

Apart from these, there are Lokpalas, or celestial guardians of the eight directions.

One of them is Kuber (in the picture above) who is associated with the planet Venus.  Kuber is the god of wealth guarded by fierce looking dwarpaal or guardians.

Reliefs on the temple wall

The main chamber :
A 3 meter high, 4- armed Shiv, or Siwa as he is known in Indonesia, stands on a lotus over a yoni supported by a naag (serpent), on the north side of pedestal.

It is very dark inside and taking a picture was a daunting task.

He has a crecent moon on his head (Chandrakapala), a crown of tousled hair ( jatamukuta), third eye on his forehead (trinetra). He holds prayer beads (aksamala),  a trident (trishul).

   Shiva standing on a lotus                                      Shiva yoni supported by a Naag head

Shiv's standing on a lotus is considered as the intermingling of Hinduism and Buddhism.

Some historians believe that Lord Shiva is a depiction of King Balitung. 

This practice of personification of King in a God or Devraaja has been common practice in South-East Asia.

In Angkor Wat, the huge Vishnu is said to be King Jayavarman VII.

Rishi or Sage Agatsya:

Moving in a clockwise direction from Shiva chamber is the temple of 
Sage Agatsya.

Sage Agastya

He was the teacher of Lord Shiva. He holds prayer beads in one hand and kamandal in the other. Kamandal is an oblong pot made of dried gourd or coconut shell used mainly by Hindu ascetics.

Lord Ganesha:
Ganesha, the son of Shiva and Parvati is seen sitting on a lotus in the west chamber.

Lord Ganesha

He is the obstacle remover and full of wisdom. Here at the temple, the trunk is turned towards the left and into a bowl of sweets. This means that worshipping him will provide us material prosperity.

Durga as Mahisasurmardini:
Moving further towards North is goddess Durga depicted as Mahishasurmardini or the slayer of the demon Mahisasur. The 8-armed deity holds a weapon in each arm which were given to her by gods to slay the demon.

It is said that there is a likeness between the Rakai Pikatan's wife Pramodhawardhani and the deity Durga. Pramodhawardhani later got Candi Plaosan constructed which is just a few kilometers away from this temple.

Goddess Durga

Lord Vishnu gave his Sudarshan Chakra, Shiva gave her his trident (trishul), Indra gave his thunderbolt (vajra). Other than this she holds a conch, bow and arrow, sword, lotus. In the top right hand, she does not hold anything and blesses her devotees.

Mahisasur was both a buffalo and a demon, that is why in the above picture you see Durga's victory over the buffalo by standing on top of him and that of demon by holding him by his hair.

Nandi temple or Candi Nandi:

How can Nandi not be present where his master is? Nandi is not only the mount of Shiva but also his ardent devotee. He sits outside the temple waiting for his master's orders.

Candi Nandi facing Shiva temple

The retoration of this temple was completed  in 2009 afterit was damaged by an earthquake in 2006. Behind Candi Nandi, you can a Kelir temple. This west facing temple is 15x15 square meters and is 25 meters high.
The panel at the base of the temple are clearly visible.

Nandi

The single chamber is occupied by a huge monolith sitting Nandi.

Nandi sits inside the temple with Chandra (moon)  and Surya (sun) at the back

Behind Nandi, there are two idols. On the right side is Chandra and to the left of Nandi is Surya.

Chandra, the Moon god stands on a carriage pulled by 10 horses. He holds special significance as Lord Shiva holds moon or Chandra on his head.

Surya or the Sun god also stands on a carriage drawn by 7 horses. He holds a lotus in his hands.

reliefs on outside temple wall

more reliefs

After coming down, I turn to the temple of Vishnu and then go to the right of Shiva temple to see the Brahma temple.

I continue to next post on Candi Vishnu and Candi Brahma, Candi Vishnu and Candi Brahma, Prambanan temple