Monday, August 20, 2018

South Gate, Angkor Thom, Siem Reap

Angkor Thom was a square city surrounded by 8 meter high laterite wall.   A 100 meter wide moat which is crossed by a causeway.
According the Hindu epic, cited in Mahabharata, Vishnu Purana and also Bhagwat Purana, the ocean was churned by the devas and asuras to obtain the amrit or the elixir of life. Vasuki, the King of serpents volunteered to be used as a rope for churning. Mount Mandara or Meru became the center around which the serpent wound himself. The devas were on one side and the asuras on the other.
Avalokiteshwar face tower, viewed from inside Angkor Thom
Most of the tourists coming from Siem Reap pass through this gate to enter Angkor Thom. It is one of the most popular place visited.
The central tower of the gate is more than 23 meters and has two smaller towers on its side. Faces on the tower look at the four cardinal directions which are supposed to represent Avalokiteshwara but also show similarity of Jayavarman VII who followed the Devraja cult (देवराजा) where King is supreme and represents God.
At the base of gate are seen three-headed elephants on each side.
The moat served as a barrier to any approaching army of enemy.
The wooden door of entrance was closed at night
On top of the elephant (Airavata or Airavan), Indra is seen sitting.

Above Indra are seen images with folded hands
city wall surrounded by moat
Entering the gate through a causeway, over a moat, are figures on balustrade on both sides. On left are 54 images of devas (guardian gods) and on the right are the same number of asuras (demon gods). They seem to be in the process of churning the ocean.
The devas are holding the body of snake,Vasuki.
Here, probably either Bayon or the gate itself represents the Mount Meru.
In the center of Angkor stands the beautiful Bayon temple or Prasat Bayon.


Above the four faces are three prasats or temples. The central one is the tallest. All the towers end with a lotus flower.
devas side, well made feet still intact
asurs on the other side, all holding Vasuki
Asuras in the opposite side of causeway hold the tail side of Sheshnaga. They have a frown on their face and have huge round eyes. They are stout and wear a different headdress.

North gate:
North Gate or Thvear Ta Nok of Angkor Thom is very similar to the South Gate.

Similar to South Gate, here also the gate is flanked by tri-headed elephant (Airawat)
so beautifully depicted headgear, in between the faces is a single devta figure



Seated above Airawat are three figures, center one being Indra. Above Indra are figures with folded palms.
The devas have calm and serene expressions and wear a conical headdress.


Entering inside the Angkor Thom, one is awestricken by the temples in it. The wooden houses of the city have long gone but the temples remind us of the past.

Friday, August 10, 2018

Bas reliefs at Angkor Wat, Siem Reap

Bas relief is a sculpture slightly raised in a wall giving a 3-d effect. The bas reliefs in the ground level gallery of Angkor Wat run all around and cover 1,200 square meters of etched work in sandstone. It is said to be the longest sculpted work on wall in the world. The height of these reliefs is around 2 meters from ground to ceiling.

A beautiful representation of the gallery with themes in the map below. I could not help myself not putting it. I added directions to the map which gives a better perspective of the order one takes.
Turn left and proceed in the direction of arrows. Made some changes to picture taken from other site.

Since, Angkor Wat has been confirmed to be a funerary, the entrance is from the west. The correct order to take is to turn left or anti clockwise and start appreciating the work.

The area near the reliefs are cordoned to protect the beautiful work from touching. The bas reliefs in the first level of temple are made on the inside wall of gallery and columns stand on the other side so that there is good viewing by sunlight.

As you can see in the map above, each side of the wall is divided into two displaying a theme mainly from Ramayana and Mahabharata
cordoned gallery
1. Battle of Kurushetra, Mahabharata, West gallery, Southern part
Since, at the time of construction, the region was highly influenced by Hinduism, you see bas reliefs from Hindu mythology as Mahabharta depicting scenes of the famous battle of Kurushetra between the Kauravas and the Pandavas.

In this panel, which runs to almost 160 feet depicts the battle of Kurukshetra between Kauravas and Pandavas. Kauravas are seen advancing from left or the northern direction. By the middle of panel wall, Pandavas are seen facing each other.
Kauravas advancing from left
Arjuna, one of the Pandava brothers progressing from right with his bow, Gandeeva. Krishna is the charioteer.
a scene from Mahabharata, Bhishma lying on a bed of arrows, Arjuna sits by his side

During the Battle of Kurushetra, Bhishma was the chief of the Kaurava army. He had a boon of dying at the time of his choosing. He was waiting for an auspicious time ( Uttarayana: उत्तरायन ) to leave his body. Arjuna made a bed of arrows for him and when Bhisma wanted water, he pierced the earth with his arrow in such a way that a stream of water came out and went straight to Bhisma's mouth.
Pandavas from Mahabharata
Pandavas who were righteous five brothers in Mahabharata and Krishna sided with them during the battle.

2.  Suryavarman II: South gallery , western part
Suryavarman II was the King who built this temple. The bas-relief on this wing is dedicated to him. The reliefs portray his battle, scenes holding court.

This is the royal court of Suryavarman II.  He is sitting on a divan, the legs of which are naag like. He is surrounded by parasols and fly-whisks.
The scene depicts Suryavarman II addressing ministers.
Suryavarman II in the center of his royal army
royal procession of King Suryavarman II
the royal procession
The battle procession march scene of Suryavarman II against the Chams which extends 90 meters

3. Heaven and Hell: South gallery, eastern part
In Indian Buddhist mythology, there are eight degrees of hell where a man after his death goes to depending on what he has done in his physical world.
Yama or Yamaraja or Dharam Raja is the Lord of Justice and death.  Yama, sits with Chitragupt by his left side. Chitragupt is Yama's divine assistant who keeps an account of the actions taken by a human being during his lifetime on earth. He at the time of demise of a person gives the details to Yamaraja who sends the person to heaven or hell.

The topmost tier in the panel is heaven and the bottom is hell.

The righteous are sent to heaven and sinners to hell where they are subjected to tortures depending on the sins committed by them.
inscriptions on the panel
The inscriptions probably say that there are 32 hells and 37 heavens.
Yamaraja, the god of death on water buffalo at the entrance of panel
Yamaraja, the God of Death
Yama, the God of Death on his mount, water buffalo
Yama has multiple arms and holds a staff in his hand

torture in  raurava hell

This is the raurava hell or the fourth hell. "The Screaming Hell", where people scream, and beaten with hammers. 
Maharaurava (महारौरव) or the "Great Screaming Hell" is the fifth hell where the person is suspended from a hook and nailed in all parts of the body. There is screaming everywhere.

4. Churning of Ocean of milk: East gallery, southern part
This 150 meter long is one of the most important relief work in the temple. It is said to be incomplete as it is speculated that the work stopped after Suryavarman II died.
Churning of ocean for getting the elixir is one of the most popular mythological legends. from Bhagwada Purana.  It was decided to get the elixir or the nectar of immortality by churning the sea.


The devas and asuras started churning the ocean. Vasuki, the king of serpents and who is seen around Lord Shiva's neck was as the churning rope. Mount Mandaar or Meru was used as the churning rod around which the snake wound himself and the pulling started.

Asuras opted to hold the head of serpent and on Vishnu's advice who knew that the snake would be emitting poisonous gases and venom (alakatoom), devas took hold of the tail end. Alakatoom had the power to wipe-out the entire creation. Holding the head denoted power and supremacy and the asuras were thrilled by this.
Mount Mandaar rests on Kurma, an incarnation of Vishnu
Kurma

This is the center of the scene, with churning of sea with demons (asurs) on one end and gods on the other to get the elixir using the giant serpent Vasuki as a rope and Mount Mandaar as the center.
Vishnu here appears in two forms: on top he is seen as Chaturbhuja (चतुर्भुज), having four arms. Two arms holding the snake and chakra and sword in the other two.
As Mandaar had no support, it started sinking so Vishnu came in the form of a turtle, Kurma (Kurmavatar: कुर्मावतार ), which supported the mountain.

The churning of sea produced large amount of heat which caused fire in forests of mountains. To extinguish this fire, Indra who is also the God of rain began to shower water. At the top of panel is Indra producing rain.

The poison and gas emitted by Vasuki reduced the physical power of asuras but the process of churning continued.
Apsaras fly in sky
devas pulling from tail end
There are 88 devas from the tail side and is said to correspond to the number of days between the spring equinox and summer solistice.
They wear a sort of conical cap and have a peaceful expression.
Asuras or demons pulling from head end
The 92 asuras sport a big moustache, long hair and have a three spiked crown or cap.

Airawata or Airawana or Irawana also appeared during this process. Indra asked for the white elephant which was given to him.
 gajamatsya makara
Gajamatsya makara ( Gaja: elephant, matsya: fish) is an imaginary or mythological fish  which has a snout of an elephant's trunk. This is seen among the fish.
another mythical animal, a lion
King Bali, who was the King of asuras holds the head of Vasuki
Lot of poison was spewed by Vasuki in this churning. No one wanted to partake it but it had to be consumed or else the entire creation would have been wiped out. Lord Vishnu pleaded Lord Shiva to do something and on the latter agreed to take it which scorched his throat and left a permanent blue mark on his throat.
There is another serpent near Vasuki. I do not know the reason behind the presence of this one.

Sugreeva,  who was the King of Monkeys takes control at the tail end.

5. Vishnu conquers asuras:
Vishnu has taken many incarnations to bring an end to the oppression by asuras.


6. Krishna kills Banasura :
There has always been a clash between gods and asuras who on account of their superego became arrogant and pompous.
I have already mentioned about Hiranyakashyapu and Prahalada in my earlier post on Banteay Srie

Hiranyakashyapu
Prahalada
Mahabali
Banasura

Banasura (बाणासुर), was the son of Mahabali who is said to be the most generous and benevolent of the kings who ruled in the state of Kerala. So intense and undaunting was his generosity that Vishnu himself came in the form of Vaman avatar to test him and break his ego.
Hiranyakashyapu's son was Prahalada, the ardent devotee of Lord Vishnu. Prahalada's son was Mahabali. Mahabali or Bali took control of Vasuki's head from asura's side in the churning of ocean.

Krishna, an incarnation of Vishnu on Garuda
Above, Banasura has multiple hands and  rides a chariot driven by a rhinoceros

Banasura was a devotee of Lord Shiva and when asked for a boon, Banasura asked Shiva to always protect him and got thousand arms. Having got this, Banasura became not only over confident but also egoistic. He asked Lord Shiva to send someone with whom he could fight. In answer to this, Lord Shiva gave him a flag and asked him to put it outside his palace and the day the staff bends down, that would be the day someone matching your strength would come to fight you.

Years passed and Banasura's beautiful daughter, Usha grew up and one day dreamt of a handsome man with whom she fell in love. Usha's friend Chitralekha painted the face of the person after getting the details from Usha. It turned out to be Aniruddha, son of Pradyumn, and grandson of Lord Krishna.
Chitralekha had immense powers so she got the sleeping prince to Usha and both fell in love with each other.
When Banasura found about this, he imprisoned Aniruddha for which Krishna waged war against Banasura who of course lost in the battle. As Krishna was about to sever all his hands, Lord Shiva appeared and Banasura asked for forgiveness and was pardoned.

7. Battle of devas and asuras:
Devas and asuras have equal mastery over religion, powers. The only difference being that devas worship the only one almighty and are virtuous. The asuras or daitya follow unethical practices grown over a period of time fanned by their ego.

Many battles have been fought between the two. One was after the immortal elixir which was obtained by the churning of ocean. Both keen on just having a sip.

Vishnu on chariot
Also can be seen Varun, god of water riding on naga by the side of chariot.
fierce battle
battle creating havoc
Skanda or Kartikeya on peacock, his mount
Skanda or Kartikeya is the son of Lord Shiva and Parvati and brother of Lord Ganesha. He is the god of war and victory and also the commander of army of devas. He is very much revered in South of India.

8. Battle of Lanka: West gallery
This section of bas relief illustrates the battle between Lord Rama and Ravana, the King of Lanka.


While putting this picture, I found that the same style of picture with Lord Vishnu and Garuda has been put above!
Here, Lord Rama is being carried by his fondest devotee Hanumana who is carrying Sumeru mountain in his one hand.

Rama surrounded by arrows stands on the shoulders on Hanumana who has Sumeru in his hands. Lakshman, Rama's brother stands nearby.
 Rama and his brother Lakshmana

Ravana on chariot driven by mythical lions
attending to wounded soldiers
Hanumana confronts Ravana

Hanuman fights Indrajeet
Indrajeet, as the name says a person who has defeated Indra. The name was given to him by Brahma. He was the son of Ravana and was popularly called Meghnaada.
Ravana with eight arms and multiple heads
Ravana
Nala standing on heads of two lions
Neel and Nala were two brothers who helped Rama built the bridge to Lanka. In the above relief, Nala is seen stnading on heads of two lions.


Hanuman attacking Ravana
With this side over, we come to the end of the world's largest and longest bas relief.

These are just a few shots. There are many more and understanding and deciphering may take a lot of patience and time.