Tuesday, February 28, 2023

Wat Traimat, Bangkok

Wat Traimit is a very old temple which was known as "Wat Sam Jeen Tai" earlier.  It is a Royal temple and houses an enormous gold image of Buddha.
History of wat:
Located in the China Town of Bangkok, Wat Traimit Withayaram Wora Vihara was originally built in 1832. It was called Wat Sam Chin or Jeen (Three Chinese Temple) after three Chinese donated their property to build the temple. The temple is often referred as Wat Trimitre, meaning three friends.
In 1929, the name was changed to Wat Traimit Witthayaram and it became a royal temple in 1956.

Origin of image:
The origin of the image is not known but is said to have been cast in India since it is made of nine pieces which fit together. It is said to have a key which helps in easy assimilation of parts.
Moreover, the face is oval in shape in contrast to round face which were made later.

It was cast during Sukhothai period which thrived in Northern Thailand between 1238 and 1438. After its fall and rise of Ayutthaya Kingdom from 1350 to 1767, the image was relocated in a temple there.
When Burma invaded and destroyed Ayutthaya (1765-67), the Golden Buddha was covered with a plaster so to protect it from being stolen.
Soon after, assuming that the image was made of plaster, it was ignored and forgotton.

In 1737, King Rama I established the Chakri dynasty and made Bangkok its capital. He got all the valuable Buddha images from Sukhothai and Ayutthaya to Bangkok to prevent the looming threat of Burma. It was at the same time when the Emerald Buddha was shifted from Chiang Mai to Bangkok.

The image arrived in Bangkok still covered with stucco during the reign of Rama III (1824-1851).

Image installed:
  • The stucco covered image which was painted and covered in glass pieces was shifted to Wat Chotanaram or Wat Phraya Krai in Bangkok.
  • Soon, this wat started crumbling, the image was so huge that no one was willing to welcome it. The abbot at Wat Traimit decided to build a place to house it. 
  • It was moved to Wat Traimit in 1935 still covered in plaster but since it was so huge, it was kept under a tin shed. It remained there for almost 20 years.
  • In 1954, a new vihan was made to install the huge image. In 1935, while the image was being lifted, one of the ropes broke, part of the plaster came out revealing the golden image inside.
  • In 2008, the present building of three floors was made to house the gold image.
The building has three floors:
  • first floor has a museum and since the wat is in Chinatown, it tells the history of Chinatown and the Chinese immigrants in Bangkok.
  • the second floor has a museum which walks you through the history of Golden Buddha. Pieces of coating or plaster are on display.
  • the third floor has Phra Maha Mondop which houses the image of Golden Buddha
Features of Golden Buddha:
  • The main image Phra Maha Suwan Patimakorn or Luang Pho Thongkham or Phra Sukhothai Traimit is of pure gold and is said to be biggest solid gold Buddha image in the world.
  • The statue is 3.01 meters wide in lap size and is 3.91 meters tall.
  • As already mentioned above, the image is in 9 removable parts, maybe that made transportation from India easier.
  • The body is 40% gold but the face is 80% gold.
  • the top knot on Buddha's head is 45 kg which is 99.99% gold.
  • the image sits in bhumisparsha mudra, that is calling the earth to witness his enlightenment.
The complex has a learning school, ubosot and also a public school, "Traimit Vidyalaya"
entrance ticket to Maha Mondop. In case, one decides to see the museum, additional ticket for 100 Baht needs to be bought.
The museum is closed on Mondays, sadly the day we visited :(

Gable of Maha mondop

richly decorated windows and corners
Bronze reliefs:
There are two bronze reliefs on either side of stairs on the second floor.
Top part of the relief shows Phra Mae Thorani or Mother Earth Goddess(Dharini) wringing her hair to drown Mara, who tried to distract Buddha in his meditation. Buddha requested Mother Earth to come to his rescue.
On the side is Garuda with seven-headed Nagaraja who holds on to a woman who is getting washed away by the flow of water.
The bottom part of relief shows Airawat or Irawan with Indra.
The other relief shows subdued Mara with her army
bell pavilion
Phra Maha Suwan Patimakorn or Luang Pho Thongkham or Phra Sukhothai Traimit

The huge image of Buddha sits on a white lotus in Bhumisparsha mudra, his right hand touching the earth and the other on his lap.
On his either side is a seven headed naga.
praying in front of image
door of vihan
rules to be followed

Naga and elephant headed lion or Yali at entrance
another bell tower on the other side
richly decorated entrance and gable
Ubosot:
Across the mahamondop is ubosot.

ubosot in background
The principal Buddha image here is "Phra Buddha Dhosapholyan". Devotees pray and make a wish with a jasmine garland.
It is a stucco image which is lacquered and is covered with gold leaves. It is commonly called "Luang Pho To" or "Luang Pho Wat Sam Jeen"
King Chulalongkorn or King Rama V once paid a homage to this place.
I had never seen a such a long plantain flower along with fruit earlier.

It was an afternoon well spent and we enjoyed the quiet environment of the place.

Tuesday, February 14, 2023

Quán Thánh Temple, Hanoi

While walking back from One Pillar Pagoda and Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum to Tran Quoc pagoda, we saw this temple. While taking a note of places to visit in Hanoi, I probably missed Quán Thánh Temple. I am happy I went inside.
It is an old Taoist temple dating back to 11th century.
Taoist temple
History:
  • Made in the 11th century, Quán Thánh Temple also known as Tran Vu Temple is a Taoist temple in Hanoi.
  • It is dedicated to Xuan Wu or Huyen Thien Tran Vu in Vietnamese, who is one of the principal deities in Taoism.
  • Situated near West Lake, this is one of the Four Sacred temples of Hanoi situated in four directions. Quan Thanh temple protects in the north, Voi Phuc temple in west, Kim Lien temple in south and Bach Ma temple in the east.
  • Emperor Lý Thái Tổ who was the founding emperor of the Ly dyansty ruled from 1010-1028.
  • he shifted the capital to Hanoi got the temple constructed dedicating it to Trần Vũ. It was moved to its present position in 1474.
  • Quán Thánh temple has been renovated may times and reflects the different time periods.
Outside the main entrance are four pillars decorated by phoenix on top of central pillars and nghe on side pillars. Embossed tiger adorn below rahu images on both sides.
pillar in front of the temple with Rahu, an influence of Hinduism during that period
3-gate entrance which was built on large stone slabs
The central archway is the biggest flanked by two smaller arches on the sides. On top of the central archway is Rahu, the Indian god to protect people who enter the temple

side of entrance has image of trees

large courtyard with kneeling elephants on both sides
large courtyard shaded by trees

incence burning urn
dragon at entrance to main altar
tiger on the other side
Inside the main shrine:
The inside of temple is richly decorated in hues of red and gold.
cranes guarding the shrine
guarding cranes standing on tortoise, a famous animal symbolism in the temple
Writing in ancient Chinese due to Chinese rule over Vietnam for a very long period
Master sculptor, Trum Trong who made Tran Vu statue
Tran Vu with altar offerings
In the main shrine is a big black bronze statue of Huyen Thien Tran Vu, shortened to Tran Vu. His feet are bare, his hair pulled back. He has a square face.
Cast in 1677, this statue has been recognized as a national treasure in December 2016.
In his right hand, he holds a sword with a snake coiled around it. The tip of the sword rests on top of a turtle. The former stands for protection and turtle for wealth
The statue measures 3.96 meters and weighs 4 tons, sitting on a marble base.
Tran Vu is particularly revered by martial artists and that is why students practice martial art in the compound.
two of the four Marshals in temple
another pair of Marshals on opposite side
artifacts used during that time
artifacts which have now become a national treasure on display
decorated pillar
Richly decorated pillars and doors are an added attraction
Boots of Ttan Vu
carved wood, a traditional Vietnamese work still present in the Red river delta region
oven for burning fake notes
The temple is frequented by devotees specially on Tet (Vietamese Lunar New Year)ar and on the first and fifteenth day of each lunar month, that is new and full moon. They pray for health and happiness.
roof of temple
stele house, banyan tree on the side
stele house
The stone stele recorded all restorations. The last record was made in 1894 by Hoang Cao Khai, a viceroy under King Thanh of Thai dynasty.
As it is a sacred place, visitors should dress up properly.

Opening hours: 8:00 am to 5:00 pm
entrance fee: 10,000 VND

The temple though not very big but has plenty of interesting things to see inside.