Friday, March 31, 2023

Tam Chuc Pagoda, Vietnam

The largest pagoda in the world, Tam Chuc pagoda is 1.5 hours drive from Hanoi. Located in Ha Nam province, the pagoda has been rebuilt on the grounds of ancient Tam Chuc of Dinh dynasty in the 10th century.
Inaugurated in 2019, this pagoda is largest pagoda to date covering an area of 5,100 hectares. I have so many pictures that I am in a dilemma which ones to chose.
History:
Around 20 years back while surveying the Tam Chuc lake, workers found wooden pillars and other remnents of ancient Tam Chuc Pagoda. The temple was dated back to 1000 years.
The present temple is built on the foundation of the ancient pagoda.
Pagodas as seen from road
Exterior gate, going inside the complex, couldn't take a proper picture
view from inside
The exterior gate is the entry to Tam Chuc complex. The gate has entrances. The top has architecture similar to pagodas in the complex.
The distance from parking lot to pagoda is 5 kms so there are two ways one can reach the pagoda-- by electric motor van or by boat. The van is much faster.
The boat takes about half an hour to reach inner gate. But, that way you get to enjoy the fresh breeze. Also, visit a temple dedicated to queen of Dinh dynasty- Duong Thi Nguyet. People come and pray here.
Architecture of Pagoda:
  • The west facing pagoda has Luc Nhuc lake in front and That Thinh mountain behind.
  • The Cong Tam Quan or the internal gate has three arched entrances.
  • The largest building is Dien Tam The which is at the highest end and houses 3 huge black bronze Buddha images.
  • Coming down from Dien Tam The is Dien Phap Cu which has a single image of Buddha.
  • Further down is Dien Quan An with an image of Quan An.
  • Between the internal gate and Dien Quan An is a garden of 32 pillars.
  • This pagoda is very similar to Bai Dinh Pagoda in Ninh Binh province.

ferry approaching
ferry closer to wharf
passengers get off the boats
Interior gate or Tam Quan Gate:
On getting off the wharf, is the three arched gate.
The gate is located on the Shinto axis, that is the axis between celestial poles. It is similar to Mount Meru or Kailash which forms the center of universe.
Reclining Buddha or "Thich ca thap niet ban" in Vietnamese under the center gate
Images of reclining Buddha are rarely seen in Vietnam in contrast to Thailand where one sees this posture of Buddha in almost all pagodas.
temple guardians on both sides of the hall
Most visitors after the internal gate go to Dien Tam The and then come back visiting  Dien Phap Chu and Dien Quan An temples.
A road goes up towards the Ngoc or ruby pagoda. It is a steep and long climb.
We decided to go to Diean Tam The first, then walk and climb up to Ngoc pagoda and come down seeing Phap Chu and Dien Quan An temples.

Dien Tam The or Main Hall of Buddha of three times:
This biggest temple in this complex is at an altitude of 45 meters above sea level.
The temple has 3 curved roofs.
The corners of roof curve upwards with a dragon mouth open towards inside and tail going up like tidal waves. In the center is the blazing sun with the center of yin and yang.
After taking off shoes and passing through huge wooden doors, one enters a large hall which is 5,100 meters and can accomodate upto 1,500 people.
The three Buddhas: Amitabha, Gautam and Maitreya
In the center of hall are three colossal black bronze Buddha images in three different poses or mudras. Each image weighs about 80 tons and has gold plated Bodhi leaf with small leaves inside.
Tam the Buddha means Buddha of three times: past, present and future. so, it is always worshipped in a set of three. Tam the Buddha is the most worshipped statues in Vietnam.
The past represented by Amitabha Buddha, present is Sakyamuni Buddha and the future is Maitreya Buddha.
back side of each leaf of image
An image of Boddhiattva of compassion, Quan An behind of the images
The hall has reliefs in stone all around the hall. They depict the life of Buddha. There are said to be 12,000 reliefs in the hall.


Kaal chakra or Wheel of time
Three huge reliefs at the back of three statues:
Three huge wall to wall reliefs decorate the back of colossal images. 
Angels and fairies can be seen above the meditating or preaching Buddha.
abhay mudra(do not fear) or even the blessing or var mudra
Buddha in dyaan mudra or meditative posture
Buddha in preaching posture
huge bell inside the hall
The courtyard:
Going down the stairs is a huge courtyard.


an incense burning urn flanked by cranes sitting on turtle
crane with a lotus in its beak symbolises purity and longevity
This image of crane sitting on top of turtle is very frequently seen in Vietnamese pagodas and also in Chinese temples.
I was never able to figure out the significance of this posture earlier.
Both, crane as well as turtle are a symbol of longevity and together they represent a long and healthy life.
According to a folk tale, many years back Vietnam was flooded and a crane flying up could find no dry place to land. A turtle swimming in water, came out and offered its back to the bird. Many years later, the country was struck with a bad drought and there was no water for the turtle. This time the crane flew down and carried the turtle to a lake thus repaying his debt.
These two are thus always displayed together. They also signify helping those in need.

The 30 ton bronze Pho Minh cauldron is 4 meters high and has famous spiritual landscapes of Vietnam sculplted on it.
Zen Master Ngyun Minh Khong
He was one of the Zen Masters who was the ancestor of Bai Dinh pagoda and contributed to the development of Buddhism in Vietnam.
Tam Chuc Pagoda- Ha Nam
Trang An Pagoda--- Bai Dinh
Bai Dinh Pagoda-- Ninh Binh
On the sides are images of Buddha in different mudras or hand gestures

Bodhi tree, a sapling of which came from Sri Lanka and said to be from a 2, 125 year old Bodhi tree in India.
We made our way to Jade pagoda or Ngoc Pagoda. After visiting that pagoda, we come down to see Phap Cu, Dien Quan An. That, I shall be covering in my next post.

Thursday, March 23, 2023

Doleshwar Mahadev, Nepal

A 45 minutes drive from Bhaktapur on an unpaved road takes you to Sipadol, home to Doleshwar Mahadeva temple.  It is believed to be the head part of Kedarnath. The torso of Lord Shiv is worshipped at Kedarnath.
entrance to temple premises
It is believed that after the victory of Pandavas over Kauravas in the battle of Kurukshetra, the Pandavas were overcome with guilt of being the cause of so many lives lost, they renounced their kingom and went to Mount Kailash, the abode of Lord Shiva to ask his forgiveness.

Shiva was unwilling to pardon them and to get away from the Pandavas, took the form of a bull. Pandavas, on realising that bull was none other than Lord Shiva, tried to stop Him by holding on his tail.  The head suddenly got separated, flew away and Pandavas could not trace it.
temple with Nandi sitting outside
The torso is worshipped at Kedarnath whereas the head is at Doleshwar. Let me not go into the archaeological similarities between the sculptures at both places.
lighting lamps and incense
Doleshwar Mahadev
The devastating floods in Uttarakhand, India in June 2013, caused severe damage to the temple at Kedarnath. A puja was organised here for those who died in the disaster.



View from the temple
roadside shops
Mankaamna devi temple by the road to Doleshwar
My next post is about durbar square in Patan and few temples I visited in Lalitpur, Patan Durbar Square, Nepal


Monday, March 20, 2023

Mariamman Temple, Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam

Mariamman temple also known as Chua Ba Mariammanwas built for the Chettiyar community from South India who came as traders long time back. Chua is a temple in Vietnamese. It is said to be built in the early 20th century. Goddess Mariamman or Parvati is worshipped here.
The temple is believed to have miraculous powers.
The temple deity is worshipped as fertility goddess. In North part of India, she is worshipped as Parvati and Durga, whereas in Bengal is venerated as Kali.
entrance to temple
The temple when built was just a small place which was covered with a corrugated iron sheet. From 1950-52,  the temple was renovated to its present form.
Building materials along with statues were imported from South India built by Tamil craftsmen.

The temple is very close to the Ban Thanh market and is easily noticeable by the multicolored painted sculptors on top of the temple. Before the entrance, shops sell offerings of coconut, flowers etc.
gopuram of temple
The most attractive feature of the temple is the three-storey gopuram or the entrance tower of temple. The colorful gopuram is decorated with sculpture and carvings of themes from Hindu mythology.
The temple has five (odd number) kalasha on top.
inside the temple
On entering the temple, your eyes fall on the temple deity. A Shivlinga stands in front of the goddess.

main shrine
The area is cordoned off and permits only those who come to pray or make offerings. Casual visitors are not permitted inside the area.
cordoned area
Just above the main altar is Goddess Mariamman with her sons--- Ganesha and Kartikeya or Murugan
close up of goddess
Inside compound wall of temple has images of Lakshmi, Vishnu, Krishna.

Lord Ganesha and Murugana, sons of Mariamman are placed on her right and left side inside the temple respectively.
offerings on table
The temple is said to have great miraculous powers and is reverred not only by Hindus but by ethinic Vietnamese and Chinese also. Offerings are made of coconut, fruits, bottles of oil and flowers.
On either side of Goddess Mariamman, are two small temples in which are two deities. The black-painted stone statues are Maduraiveeran to her left and Pechiamman to her right. These two are said to be her guardians. They are called "Co" and "Cau" in Vietnamese.
roof of guardian temple
Simha Vahanm
Simha: lion and vahanam: vehicle or mount. Every autumn,  the Goddess is placed on this lion and taken around the city on ashtami, the eighth day of the nine day festival of navratris.


Temple timings: 0700 hours to 1900 hours, lunch break-- 1200 to 1300 hours
Admission fee: free
Shoes need to be taken off before entering the temple.

A beautiful temple and worth a visit.