Friday, July 15, 2016

Weekend at Bokor, Cambodia

Depending on the traffic, Bokor mountain is around three hours from Phnom Penh. The casino also provides an ideal weekend getaway with a resort. The clouds come low and it is fun walking through them.

Around 40 kms before Kampot, a huge gate on right side with golden statues welcomes visitors to the entrance. A fee of $5 is needed to be paid there.

Golden statues at entrance


Flanked by bouganivillas on either side of the road, the drive starts becoming pleasant.


Newly constructed in 2010, the 29 meter high Lok Yeay Mao is seen on right side of the road. A Buddhism and Brahanism form in Cambodia, she is the protective deity for travellers in the coastal areas. The reason might also be that after this place, the road starts climbing and there are sharp turns. It is the highest and biggest Lok Yeay Mao statue in Cambodia.
There is also an area just opposite for those who would be interested in grabbing a quick lunch. The  road is very good but one needs to be careful specially of bikers who love to take risks on the road :(

History of Bokor:
Cambodia was a French colony till it gained independece in 1953. Bokor was a hill station established in 1925. Apart from Bokor, Kep was another favorite spot for the French to spend vacations in.
It was abandoned twice, once during World War II and later in 1970 during Khmer Rouge.
Khmer Rouge took over the control overthrowing King Sihanouk, and Bokor became their favorite place till 1993. The defiants were thrown down the cliff thus supressing opposition.

In 1979, Vietnamese forces and Khmer Rouge fought here at Bokor mountain. The palace hotel and casino was the hide out of Khmer Rouge whereas Vietnam secured a post above the old cathedral.
The resort place lead an isolated existence till 2008 when the place was converted to a National Park and Sokimex, the giant business company of Cambodia, took charge of converting the place into a casino and hotel.


Thansur Bokor Highland Resort:
This resort owned by the Sokimex group is the only place to stay. On weekends it bustles with energy. Adults hoping to take huge booties back from casinos, children enjoying under the rain arch outside. It has something for all ages.

going up the stairs

 Jin Chan or Chan Chu

The toad with a coin in its mouth is a sign of attracting and protecting wealth. With a casino next to the hotel, it obviously has to be present there.

hotel at night
Taoist temple:
Next to the Thasur Resort is the Chinese Taoist temple or the Gong. These brightly colored temples are easily identified by a pearl in between the two dragons in the center of temple roof. Pearl symbolising prosperity and longivity.

temple from outside

 pearl between two dragons

side roof of temple
Mythical creatures decorate the side of temple roof.


incense sticks burning urn

dragon pillars and the deities

Taoist sanxing

Sanxing or the three stars are Taoist deities. They are arranged in an order from right to left as is the Chinese way of writing. When you see the above picture, Shou Xing is on your left side, in the center is Lu Xing and Fu Xing on your right.
Shou is identified with longivity, Lu with status, prosperity and Fu with good fortune.


dragon inside the hall 

tiger

Dragon and tiger are two very important animals in a Taoist temple.

The old Catholic church:
Driving towards the old casino from Thansur resort is an old church which can be easily missed on right side of the road. Built in 1920s, the church is a sign of French influence on Bokor mountain area.

church as it stands today

hole in a side wall
During Khmer Rouge, all Kampot region including Bokor and Kep witnessed heavy fighting between Vietnamese and the Khmer Rouge people. In the above picture, a side wall bears the brunt of this seen even today.


The church is not functional and is deserted except for few images which have been kept there.

Old Casino:

Driving down the road is the old Bokor palace hotel or the old casino. Nothing remains of the lively casino now.

Old or the Black palace:
After the French granted independence to Cambodia, the ruling King Nordorm Sihanouk built a palace or villa there.  He would come to spend time during the summers. It is now only a ruin.


Wat Sampov Pram:
Driving just before the Chinese temple on road to 500 rice fields is the wat Sampov Pram. Sampov means boat and Pram is number five in Khmer. There are 5 rocks which look like boats hence giving the wat its name. Built in 1924 by King Monivong, the still functioning wat offers spectacular view of Gulf of Thailand below

I could not stop myself from clicking this picture in the hotel. Situated at 1,075 meters, the wat is said to be the highest in Cambodia.

entrance to wat
Steps with naga balustrade leading to temple.

our friends, Bharti, Ana and Nishant

a dry pond

entrance to wat

inside the temple

murals on the walls
I have seen painted murals on walls, but these were raised and gave a 3-d effect.


The four columns on the side of temple, probably a sign of an unfinished construction.

stupa behind the wat

stupa and wat

a monk sits on a cliff in solitude, behind him in the distance is the Old casino

Gulf of Thailand at dusk

Paddling in the Bokor moutain lake:
There is a small lake a little distance from the hotel. The signs to the lake are clear in the beginning but later start getting confused as there is a lot of development and people are buying a lot of property there.
After getting lost a bit we finally reached the lake.


The breeze welcomed us once we were outside. Paddle boats were lined and all of us chose a boat. Its relaxing and fun to paddle in the almost deserted lake.


 Julia and Aadya paddling their way

a family picnic

Cambodia has a very family oriented cultur and it is a common sight to see families getting together and sharing food.

Visit to see field of Nepenthes or the pitcher plant:
We had to return back to Phnom Penh and had not given any thought to visiting this place. While we were checking out, Bharti suggested that we visit these fields. I backed her and off we went to these fields.

Turning towards 500 rice fields on the right is entrance to these fields. The entrance fee I thought was quite high. $3 per person.

entrance ticket



Since Bokor hills are at a height so the clouds come down and all of a sudden they engulf you.

notice for no plucking flowers, clouds in the distance

jungle of pitcher plant


Such pockets of the plant are seen all over on the arid sandy land. 

close up of plant

plant with closed lid

lid open


These are wrongly referred as "flowers". If you look at the above picture closely, you would see that these are extensions of leaf. Nature adapts itself and the purpose of these plants is to procure nutrition. How do they do this? Inside the cup or funnel deep down is a liquid. When the lid is open, insects fall into the trap and cannot escape. The lid gradually closes and the mild acidic liquid starts working on the victim. It dissolves it and the nutrients are absorbed by the plant. The exoskeleton or the hard outer body is left behind.

Stacked stones:
On the way, on either side you would see such stack of stones. I have seen such a thing in Muktinath and mentioned about it in my post Places to visit in Muktinath, Nepal as well and no one could tell me what the purpose of this is. I am not still very sure but have researched a lot and few things seemed sensible to me.

  • the monks have been stacking the stones maybe as a sign that they have crossed this path.
  • it is a religious practice where a a devotee asks for blessings and good fortune for him or his family.
  • each  stone represents a wish.
  • if a stone falls down then it means that the wish has been or would be answered. Maybe, that is the reason why they are "built' where the wind is strong.

There is a waterfall nearby but if you happen to visit the place during the rainy season then it is majestic. During the dry season, the fall is just a trickle. We decided to skip it for that reason.

With weekend coming to an end it was time for all of us to return to Phnom Penh. Thanks a lot Sandeep, Ana, Nishant and Bharti for giving us a great time at Bokor.