Altun Ha-- the jewel of Belize, Plaza B

Everytime I start writing a post, it seems to become so long that I am forced to split it into two. I feel like sharing whatever I have seen or learnt on my visits. As we move to plaza B which is the highlight of Altun Ha, writing a separate post became a must.

Plaza B:
This plaza is quite different from Plaza A . Apart from B4 or the Temple of Masonry Altar which was the place where most excavation was done, not much is known about other structures in this plaza or they need more excavation.

structures of plaza A and plaza B from top of Temple of Masonary Altars

Temple of Masonry Altars or the Sun God's Temple:
This is the most important and imposing structure in this plaza. It was the center and several tombs were discovered in this temple. This is the structure which is associated with Altun Ha in most pictures.

Temple of Masonry Altars 

temple on BZE$ 2 bill and beer 

The temple rises 54 feet from the ground. Its construction probably began in 550 A.D.and the last addition to it was made in 600-650 A.D. Excavations prove that the temple was modified or altered eight times. There are stairs on the side for those interested in going to the top.

Climb up the stairway to get a wonderful view of Plaza A.

view of Plaza A structures

Pyramids in Maya structures:

Two types of pyramids or temples were made during Mayan times. Both had steep steps to climb and were built for ceremonial purposes or for the Gods. Both had platforms at top.

One type had steps for the priest to climb up to make ceremonial sacrifices to gods. They were steep but not that they could not be climbed. There would be an altar or some place to conduct religious ceremonies.

The second type had even steeper steps and could be climbed with a lot of effort. They would be reserved for gods only.

Here, in this temple we see the first sacrificial place with a round altar at top.

the altar where ceremonial services and bloodletting were done

In the center of terrace is a round ceremonial altar. Mayans believed in nature worship and performed rituals. Jade and copal (incense wood) used to be thrown in blazing fire. Most of these rituals took place high above for people to see and only the high priest or people of importance were permitted to climb up.

Apart from this ritual, the altar was also used for bloodletting and human sacrifices. Common methods of sacrifices performed were removal of beating heart from a living person of a virgin girl, child or enemy and their blood was allowed to flow down the steps of the temple.
Also the practice of shooting victim with arrows, decapitation, disembowelment, putting the subject into a sinkhole were also followed. Sometimes self-sacrifice, in which the person volunteered and used stingray spine for blood letting was conducted.

Kinich Ahau or the Sun God:

 Kinich Ahau on side of temple

 on right side of temple

 somewhat visible Kinich Ahau in the center

on left side of temple, the upper figure is much clearer

The temple also served as a burial place but for only high priest or people of high social order. Seven such tombs were found here, most of them empty, probably looted and filled with soil but one tomb revealed unusual finds.

The crypt in which was found Kinich Ahau and stairs leading to top on left of picture

view of crypt from above

the other crypt

pictorial representation of the tomb

Inside the crypt was found a tomb  of an elderly priest or a Mayan King dated 600-650 A.D. along with Belize's priceless treasure --- a six inch high, ten pound, jade head of the Sun God, Kinich Ahau! This has been the biggest find of any jade object of Mayan art as yet.

It was placed on the right side of the skeleton. Other objects along with this were pottery vessels, flints, shell beads, bracelets, beads. 

What is Kinich Ahau? The word in Mayan means "Sun face Lord"
Kin: sun
Ich: face
Ahau: lord

The word in Mayan means "Sun face Lord"

So, Kinich Ahua was the Sun God who would make the sun rise everyday for Mayans in morning and bring down the sun in evenings. He visited them everyday and would come down in the form of a parrot to take offerings from them.
He was the god of healing.

graphical representation inside the crypt

side view of jade Kinich Ahau

The original jade head is kept in a vault at Belize Central Bank.

It is said to be a made of one large solid piece of jade. Belize is not home to jade and it was imported from Motagua River Valley region of Guatamala.

Also jade is not a soft stone, so it must have taken a long time to etch out the features. The fact that jade was precious used in ceremonies indicates that the person must not be an ordinary one.

Along with Kinich Ahau, two other gods of importance: Chaac (god of rain) and Yum Kax (god of corn) were also found.

model of jade Kinich Ahau which was found here at the museum 

This find has become a symbol on all bank notes of Belize dollars.

coming down the stairs from B4 or temple of Sun God

Past the souvenir shops we make our way out.

Much excavation needs to be done as is evident by the number of mounds in and around the place. Maybe generations to come might see things more exquisite and beautiful temples unearthed.

Entrance fee: BZ$10, locals and residents BZE$ 5
Timing: 0800 hours to 1700 hours. Most of the sites remain open on public holidays as well.

Wat Rachaburana, Ayutthya

Very close to Wat Mahathat, is the wat with the most beautiful prang. Infact, it is just across the road. It has one of the most beautiful preserved prangs.

main prang as seen from Wat Mahathat

Some historical background:
King Intharacha ruled Ayutthya from 1409 to 1424. After his death, there was a duel between his two elder sons over succession to the throne. They fought each other and were both killed. Prince Sam Phraya was the next on line and so sat on the throne and was given the title of King Borommarachthirat II. He built the monument on the site where his brothers were cremated.

Viharn:
As soon as one enters the wat premises, only the walls of viharn are left to be seen. According to records the viharn and ubosot were a much later addition to the wat.

walls of the viharn

an image of dismembered Buddha sits in viharn

Gallery:

Building of a gallery surrounding the main prang was prevalent at that time. The gallery used to be closed and had Buddha in sitting posture facing the prang.

gallery with fragmented images

broken pieces and dismembered figures

Ubosoth or the ordination hall:

Ubosoth like the viharn was a much later addition to the monastery. It lies on the west of monastery whereas viharn is on the opposite direction.

sema stones visible

one of the many chedis in the wat complex

 another chedi

stucco work still visible

Prang:

The most beautiful attraction to the monument is the prang. It was influenced by Khmer architecture. The main or the pradhan prang is surrounded by four small chedis in four cardinal directions forming a quincunx.
The monastery was earlier surrounded by water. Thus, the central prang represented Mount Meru being surrounded by ocean.

The small surrounding chedis are bell shaped in Sri Lankan style.

The prang stands on a platform and above that the base of prang is indented. The prang was covered by scaffolding and renovation was underway when we visited. Taking good photos was a challenge.

On the four corners above, in line with the smaller prangs, sits garuda on a multi headed naga. On the sides are seen dwarpalas.

The garuda above lacks the naga, probably has been damaged.

On all four sides there are steps leading to the prang. Because of renovation we went around the prang and fortunately the south end was clear. Right in front of us stood an image of Buddha under a projected porch.  It is similar to the ones used in Hindu temples where images of deity are placed.

image inside the porch

I tried to shoo away a pigeon which was persistently sitting on Buddha's hands. The color of the robe has partly sustained and witnessed time.

view of ubosoth and gallery

Entrance to crypt:

This is the highlight of Wat Racha Burana and is considered one of the most unique type of crypt architecture.

There are three entrances to the crypt. North, South and East. West obviously did not have any entrance as it signifies the setting sun and also death. Unfortunately for us, only the east entrance was open.

Once you enter the room, there are steep steps leading to the crypt. I could not gather the courage to go down these steps. It would soon become claustrophobic as the room is very tiny without any light. But, if you are not bothered by small confined spaces, I would suggest you definitely go down.

There are beautiful murals and fresco, though some are not in very good condition.

Just behind the way to steps is a small room which has pictures of what was found in the crypt. The room smelt of bats and you could hear them squeaking.

In 1956, the Fine Arts Department excavated the central prang of Wat Mahathat and found plenty of artifacts. Thinking on the same line, some looters made their way into the crypt of Wat Rachaburana in 1957 and escaped with a huge booty. They were apprehended by police. Some of it was reclaimed but most was lost.

Later, the Fine Arts Department undertook the task of restoration in 1958 and discovered more valuables. They are now placed and can be seen at Chao Sam Phraya Museum in Ayutthya.

entrance fees:
50 Baht
timings: 0800 hours to 1700 hours

Other wats worth a visit: Wat Yaichai Mongkol, Ayutthya, Wat Sri Sanphet,Ayutthya, Wat Mahathat, Ayutthya, Wat Chaiwatthanaram, Ayutthya