Dikpalas in Banteay Srei, Siem Reap

I had thought of adding the information about the guardian gods of four directions in my last post but it became so big that I am making a separate post on this.

Dikpalas (दिकपाल ) or the guardian gods of directions:

According to Hinduism, each direction and sub-direction is occupied by a certain deity who act as guardian. The direction and sub-directions are still followed in Vaastushatra, science of architecture and construction. Dik is direction and palas: guardians. Since there are eight directions and sub-directions, the guardian gods are known as ashtadikpalas, asthta: eight and dikpalas; the guardians of directions.

There are four main directions and four sub-directions making a total of eight directions. There are two more one above the place of gravity and other below, but they are not considered in everyday use.

Not only in Banteay Srie, but in other temples also the gods of only four directions are highlighted. The precision regarding the gods facing directions has always been kept in mind.

Main dikpalas:

the four guardians of directions or the 

Kubera, faces North:

Kuber is the God of wealth and prosperity. He sits on a throne, Pushpak carried by his mount, a man. He faces north. He is depicted on pediment of north side of northern shrine.
Kubera observed strict penance and Brahma, the creator blessed him with plenty of riches and asked him to become the lord of wealth.

It is said the Kubera holds a golden mongoose in his hand who throws out gems every time he opens his mouth. Mongoose has enmity with snakes who are said to carry gems (mani) on their hoods. He is the only god who rides on the back of a human signifying how we have become a slave to wealth. Infact, there is a proverb in Hindi where a person if gets rich all of a sudden is asked if has got Kuber's treasure!

Yama, faces South:

Yama seated on water buffalo

Yama on pediment and lintel

Known as Yamaraja or the God of Death always faces south. He rides a water buffalo. Since, south is considered the direction of the departed soul or death no auspicious rites are performed in that direction. In Hinduism, the departed person is placed with his face towards south before and during cremation.
In Banteay Srie, Yama is seen both on pediment and lintel on the south face of southern shrine but if observed closely, one is the front view and the other side view.

Indra, faces East:

Indra is the King of Heaven and the other gods. He is also the God of Rains.

His home is mount Meru or Sumeru. He rides on a spotless white elephant, Airavata who is sometimes shown with one head sometimes three and even having five heads. Airavat or Erahwan came out during the churning of ocean. Elephant signifies power or strength.

Varun, faces West:

Varun is the guardian for west and rides on makar, which is part fish and part crocodile. Sometimes he is shown on a crocodile. Here, in this temple he is seen seated on geese supported by makar. Varun is the God of oceans/water and hence makes the rains and rivers.

Prasat Banteay Srie 7, Siem Reap, Northern Shrine

To the north of central shrine is the northern shrine. Vishnu is the deity who was worshiped here. It is said that a huge Vishnu image once stood at the entrance.

Northern shrine:
It has three faces depicting different illustrations on its pediments.

East appearance (#A):

east face of shrine

temple guardians, Garuda

above the entrance to shrine

I am not clear what it shows in the pediment, seems the top is damaged.. Lintel depicts Indra seated on Airavata or Airwana

North face of north shrine (#B:

north face of northern shrine

pediment and lintel

On the pediment is Kubera, the god of wealth seated on his vehicle, Pushpak, carried by a man. Kubera's head is missing.

On the lintel is a scene from Mahabharata. Bhima, the brother of Arjuna and one of the Pandavas ripping Jarasandha in half.

West side of shrine (#C):

west face of northern shrine, north library behind

The pediment has Varuna, head missing seated on three swans or rather geese. Lintel shows Vishnu on his mount, Garuda.

Southern Shrine  in next post.

Candi Pawon, Yogakarta, Indonesia

A very small but impressive temple is Candi Pawon between Borobudur and Candi Mendut. Some may not find it worth visiting as well.  The temple originally was not this small, it was damaged badly in an earthquake and was renovated finally in 1904.

Built during the 8th-9th century during the reign of Sailendra dyansty, the temple is located in Bajranalan village in Central Java Province.

Etymology of the temple name:
Pawon came from Per-awu-an, meaning a place where dust or ash is kept. It generally means kitchen which comes from the word awu or dust in Javanese so a place where dust or ash was kept. It also points to a place which served as a tomb or mortuary where the ashes of cremated king were kept. I might not be right but maybe that is the reason it faces west direction.

The temple base is square and has eight corners.

source: Wikipedia

The three Buddhist temples, Borobudur, Mendut and Pawon are all in a straight line. This temple is in the center with Borobudur in the east and Mendut on its west.

Candi Mendut

I passed through this temple while going to Borobudur and thought of doing it while coming back but got delayed and hence missed the chance of seeing Mendut from inside :(

The fact that these three Buddhist temples are aligned in a straight line suggests that it was supposedly a holy route with a pilgrim starting his journey towards Borobudur from west would first visit Mendut then Pawon and then pay visit to Borobudur.

 sign board outside the temple

The information board mentions that a statue of Bodhisattva was placed inside the central cell of the temple for honoring King Indra of Sailendra dynasty. Based on Karangtengah (a district) inscription of 824 AD, the statue emitted "vajra" or light so it is presumed that it was made of bronze.

According to Poerbatjaraka who was a Javanese philogist, Pawon is a part of Borobudur as there is a lot of similarity between Pawon, Mendut and Borobudur scriptures.

 west facing entrance of temple

Kaal and makar above the entrance

The kaalmukh is without any jaws.

The stairs on either side again have a kaalmukh on either side and makar in the bottom. There must have been one more makar on the other side but that too seems to have been damaged.

kaalmukh with jaws just near the entrance to temple room

makar, close up

Kubera

Kubera( God of wealth) stands in a niche on the north of entrance. There must have been one on the south of entrance which probably got damaged.

The temple walls on outside have bas reliefs.

bas relief on south of temple

bas relief on the north side of temple

back of temple

The bas reliefs are the same all around with a Kalpavriksh or Kalpataru (कल्पतरु), (wish yielding tree) flanked by Kinnar and Kinnaris (half bird and half human). Near the tree are two flying celestial beings.

On top of the tree is a pitcher containing the elixir of life with supposedly green leaves in it.
On the sides are Boddhisattava and Tara.

There are two vents above the bas relief, probably meant for ventilation of inner chamber.
The inner chamber contains absolutely nothing so can it also be hypothesized that the central chamber served as a place for exhuming of the King and the vents served as an outlet for smoke?

The roof of the temple has five dagobas or stupas. A large dagoba with four small ones around. As with other temples of the area, this temple too is made with the black volcanic rocks.

The temple does not attract a lot of tourists but if you have time, it is worth a visit.

Entrance ticket:
3,500 IDR (Indonesian Rupiah)