Monday, May 30, 2016

Wat Suan Dok Mai, Chiang Mai

Every wat I have so far visited in Chiang Mai is so different and has a character of its own. Wat Suan Dawg or Suan Dok is situated just on the side of Suthep road a little further on the west of the old city.
What you see in front as you enter is a congregation of white chedis some small and some big.

Built in 1373, by King Kue Na of Mengrai dynasty, the wat gets its name from the royal garden which was present at this place. Suan Dawg" means "golden flower".

Purpose behind building this wat:
I have already mentioned the legend of white elephant in my post on Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. I am in that case briefly writing about it.
Monk Sumana came to Chiang Mai along with Buddha relic bone, the King built this place for him to stay.The bone split into two. The smaller piece was enshrined in the golden chedi at this place and the larger piece was enshrined in Wat Phra That Doi Suthep.



Large number of white colored chedis are seen on entrance. These contain ashes of members of the Chiang Mai royal family. So, it is a royal cemetery.

board outside the chedis

mosaic work on top of chedi near the golden chedi

golden chedi
This 48 meter golden bell shaped chedi is made in Sri Lankan style and enshrines the holy relic (small piece of Buddha).


An important feature in this wat is that the chedi is open on all four sides and is guarded by nagas at entrance. The doorway has makars on either side.

another entrance


On top of the golden chedi is a square plateform (harmika) with mosaic work. Above the square plateform just below the umbrella Buddha images surround the shaft.

imposing standing gilded Buddha at ubosot facing the chedi

This wat is the center of Mahachulalongkorn Rajavidyalaya Buddhist University where monks pursue their studies.

Points of interest:
  • collection of white chedis
  • huge golden chedi
  • beautiful ubosoth
  • entry free
Wat Chedi Luang, Chiang MaiWat Phra That Doi SuthepWat Umong, Chiang Mai, ThailandWat Sri Suphan, Chiang maiWat Jed Yod or Ched YodWat Phra SinghWat Chiang Mun, Chiang Mai, Thailand

Friday, May 20, 2016

Wat Chiang Mun, Chiang Mai, Thailand

Built in 1296, Wat Chiang Mun is Chiang Mai's one of the oldest wats, the first temple to be built inside the city walls.  It was the residence of King Mengrai till the city got constructed. It is also very important as it houses two very old and revered diminutive Buddha images.

Main viharn:
As you enter the temple, a beautifully crafted Lanna style viharan is seen in front. This main viharn was renovated in 1920 by monk Khru Ba Srivichai.

 Lanna style Viharn


Entering inside the temple, is the image of Buddha under a mondop. It is probably the oldest dated statue.
At the base stand two golden deer. Buddha images stand with black bowls in hands.

Ubosoth:


closed ubosoth


In front of ubosoth is a stone stele on which is inscribed the oldest known record mentioning founding year of Chiang Mai.

The stone slab mentions that the ubosot was built during the time of King Mang Rai dyansty and it was well maintained. It was restored in 1571 by Phaya Saen Luang.
In 1805, in the time of King Kawila a new building was erected. Further, it says that Chiang Mai was founded in 1296 by King Mengrai and also that the King stayed here.

Chedi Chang Lom:
This is the oldest structure in this wat. The chedi called Chang Lom or the elephant chedi so named after the elephants which decorate and surround the stupa.
The elephants stand on a square platform on top of this is a relic chamber under a golden pinnacle.

the Chedi


The niches on top of the elephants contain small images of Buddha all around.

steps supported by naga balustrade


What it says in the insciption slab:
In  B.E. 1839 ( Buddhist Era) or 1295 Christin Era King Mengrai built residence and sleeping quarters at this site. It also says that the construction of the new city of Chiang Mai and wat also began. After the city was fully constructed, this chedi was built and the sacred hair relic of Buddha enshrined here.

naga at entrance

There were pieces of sugarcane placed on elephants trunk and I found it very intriguing.


New viharn:
The small vihan also built in the Lanna style is home to very old diminutive images of Buddha.

golden nagas guard the vihan entrance

On the side is a stele giving information about the Buddha images.
                        Crystal Buddha                                                               Marble Buddha (Phra Sila)
These two images are on two sides of entrance. I have put them together.


entrance to viharn
Beautifully decorated door of viharn.


Right in front is a seated Buddha image. Behind this image on noticing carefully is seen two very small seated revered Buddha statues inside a double grid enclosure. It is very easy to miss them.

two images of Buddha

On the left is a black crystal Buddha called Phra Setangamani and on to the right is a marble statue Phra Sila.
Phra Setangamani or Phra Sae Tang Khamani, the crystal Buddha or Phra Kaew Khao is 10 cm in height and was made about 2,500 years back in India. The golden base and canopy was a later addition in 1874.
Phra Sila is a bas relief in stone sculpted in India 1,800 years back. Sila means a stone. It shows a standing Buddha with his right hand over an elphant, "Nalagiri". This bas relief is said to have power to give rains and hence holds a very important place in the Sangoran festival, at the end of dry season and before the advent of rains.

On the sides are images of Buddha with gold leaves on them. This is done to gain merits by the devotees.

murals on the walls


more murals decorating the viharn walls


bird in cages
This is commonly seen in majority of wats. The imprisoned birds are bought by devotees and released to gain merits.

Points of interest:
  • entry is free
  • the elephant chedi
  • do not miss the opportunity of seeing diminutive Buddha images in the new viharn.

Saturday, May 7, 2016

Wat Phra Singh, Chiang Mai

Situated in the old city, Phra Buddhasihing or Phra Singh was built by King Pha Yu of Mengrai dynasty in 1345 with the purpose of honoring his father King Kham Fu's ashes. It was named Wat Li Chiang Phra. In 1367, image of Phra Singh Buddha was brought here and the name was changed to Wat Phra Singh.

After some time, viharn and other additions were made to the wat. It is the largest wat in the city of Chiang Mai.
Viharn Luang:
Phra viharn Luang
Viharn Luang was rebuilt in 1925
front view
entrance flanked by naga on both sides

Phra Chao Thong Tip
A large gold and copper Buddha called Phra Chao Thong Tip majestically sits at the end of viharn in Bhumisparsha mudra. Bhumi: earth, sparsh: touch, mudra: posture). Mara, the demon came to distract Buddha from meditating, Buddha touched the earth with his right hand to beckon mother earth. Mother earth came in the form of a woman, wringed her hair drowning Mara.
the abbot's throne
Hor Rakhang or bell tower
The ringing of this bell summons monks for services.

Viharn Lai Kham:
Walking between trees lined path, you reach viharn Lai Kham.

viharn Lai Kam

The beautiful assembly hall or vihara or viharn was built to install the image of Phra Singh Buddha in 1367. The teak wood viharn is made in red and gold and is a perfect example of Lanna architecture.
beautifully decorated entrance to viharn
Phra Singh Buddha
The pillars and the walls behind Buddha are painted in red and gold giving it a royal look.
a close up
Phra Singh Buddha is said came from India via Sri Lanka and was housed here. The head of original Phra Singh Buddha was apparently stolen in 1922 and has been replaced by a new one.

Every year during Songkran festival which is held in April, the statue is taken in a procession through the streets of Chiang Mai and people sprinkle water over it
window panel inside the viharn
 another panel
murals covering the walls dating from 1820s
On the right side of viharn is the golden stupa.
Phradhatluang (chedi)
This is the oldest structure in this wat and contains the ashes of King Pha Yu's father. The golden chedi has a square base from which emerge golden elephants. On top of it stands a bell shaped chedi.
The whole chedi rests on a rectangular white base.
A small chedi stands just beside the golden one.
small chedi
Ku Lai (chedi)
The five-tiered chedi is just behind viharn Lai Kham. It was built by King Mueangkaeo and contains ancient relics.
Moving straight ahead and we reach the temple of reclining Buddha.
reclining Buddha
devotee applying gold leaf
Ubosot:
Retracing our steps back do not miss to see the Ubosot.
If you enter from the viharn side then it is the south side. This side is for monks to enter. The entrance on the opposite is the north side and is designated for the nuns.
Phra uposatha or ubosoth
As soon as you enter, you see a huge mondop or mandapa with beautiful spired roof. Four almost realistic statues of monks sit deep in meditation. For a minute I thought they were real. They would put Madame' Tussaud's to shame !
The end towards the monk has an image of Phrasingh Buddha.
north side of ubosot
This side has statues of nuns sitting with a replica of emerald Buddha on the mondop. The original emerald Buddha is in Wat Phra Kaew in Bangkok.

Points of interest:
  • Statue of Phra Singh Buddha
  • murals in Viharna Lai Kam
  • golden chedi near it
  • ubosot
  • reclining Buddha
  • entry is free
Wat Sri Suphan, Chiang maiWat Chedi Luang, Chiang MaiWat Phra That Doi SuthepWat Umong, Chiang Mai, ThailandWat Jed Yod or Ched YodWat Chiang Mun, Chiang Mai, ThailandWat Suan Dok Mai