Wat Chedi Luang Wora Viharn translates to "large chedi" and was built by King Saen Muang Ma to enshrine the relics of his father Ku Na. The chedi which started in 1385 finished by 1402, work being carried on after his death by later kings.
The chedi when completed was the largest chedi in Chiang Mai measuring 85 meters in height and 44 meters at its base. There are four niches at the top and in each sits an image of Buddha. In 1468, the famous emerald Buddha was installed in the eastern side and remained there for almost 100 years. An earthquake hit the spire of this chedi in 1545, severely damaging and reducing the height to present 60 meters.
A brief history about Emerald Buddha:
I would be mentioning emerald Buddha many times so I thought why not give a little history of its origin and its long journey.
The Emerald Buddha made of jade is just 1 foot and 7 inches. Green in Thai is emerald hence the name "Emerald Buddha" commonly known as Phra Kaeo Morakot.
It was made in 43 B.C. in Pataliputra (now Patna) which was the capital of Magadh kingdom in India. Nagasena made the image in jade and it remained there for almost 300 years. To protect it from a civil war, it was sent to Ceylon ( Sri Lanka). Being there for 200 years, a request was sent by the King of Pukam (now Bagan in Myanmar) granting the permission to give it to them with the purpose of spreading Buddhism there.
The image was sent by sea and on way was hit by a storm. The wreckage landed in Kampuchea (Cambodia) where because of a flood, the jade statue was sent to a town in Angkor Kingdom. Thais attacked Angkor in 1432 and took the Emerald Buddha away to Ayyuthya, capital of Thai Kingdom then.
From Ayyuthya, it reached Chiang Rai by 1391 after being at Wachira Prakan Kingdom ( Kamphaeng Phet in central Thailand). The ruling king plastered and hid it in a stupa. A lightening struck Chiang Rai and the image was exposed. Since it was covered in plaster, everyone mistook it for any Buddha image and kept it in a vihara. Sometime later a part of the plaster fell off the nose of Buddha revealing a green stone inside. It remained in Chiang Rai for 32 years after which it reached Chiang Mai.
In Chiang Mai, the ruling king had given his daughter in marriage to the king of Laos. He died in 1551 without an heir so the crown prince of Laos, Prince Chaiyachetta was called to sit on the throne. An year after the King of Laos died and there was a struggle for throne. Prince Chaiyachetta had to return to Laos so he took the Emerald Buddha along with him on the pretext of providing his people a chance to worship him. The King returned to Luang Prabang which was the capital of Laos and could not come back to Chiang Mai after that since he was replaced by some another person.
The Emerald Buddha remained in Luang Prabang for 12 years.
Burmese came to power and it was a threat to Luang Prabang so the capital was shifted to Vientiane, the present capital of Laos. It remained here till 1779 when Thailand attacked and brought the Emerald Buddha to Thailand.
Bangkok became the capital in 1782 and Buddha (Phra Kaeo Morakot) was housed and continues to be in Wat Phra Kaeo which is in the compound of royal palace.
side view
replica of emerald Buddha
reclining Buddha
Buddha in "bhumisparsh mudra"
Buddha under a canopy of Muchalinda
Sala tree
The chedi when completed was the largest chedi in Chiang Mai measuring 85 meters in height and 44 meters at its base. There are four niches at the top and in each sits an image of Buddha. In 1468, the famous emerald Buddha was installed in the eastern side and remained there for almost 100 years. An earthquake hit the spire of this chedi in 1545, severely damaging and reducing the height to present 60 meters.
A brief history about Emerald Buddha:
I would be mentioning emerald Buddha many times so I thought why not give a little history of its origin and its long journey.
The Emerald Buddha made of jade is just 1 foot and 7 inches. Green in Thai is emerald hence the name "Emerald Buddha" commonly known as Phra Kaeo Morakot.
It was made in 43 B.C. in Pataliputra (now Patna) which was the capital of Magadh kingdom in India. Nagasena made the image in jade and it remained there for almost 300 years. To protect it from a civil war, it was sent to Ceylon ( Sri Lanka). Being there for 200 years, a request was sent by the King of Pukam (now Bagan in Myanmar) granting the permission to give it to them with the purpose of spreading Buddhism there.
The image was sent by sea and on way was hit by a storm. The wreckage landed in Kampuchea (Cambodia) where because of a flood, the jade statue was sent to a town in Angkor Kingdom. Thais attacked Angkor in 1432 and took the Emerald Buddha away to Ayyuthya, capital of Thai Kingdom then.
From Ayyuthya, it reached Chiang Rai by 1391 after being at Wachira Prakan Kingdom ( Kamphaeng Phet in central Thailand). The ruling king plastered and hid it in a stupa. A lightening struck Chiang Rai and the image was exposed. Since it was covered in plaster, everyone mistook it for any Buddha image and kept it in a vihara. Sometime later a part of the plaster fell off the nose of Buddha revealing a green stone inside. It remained in Chiang Rai for 32 years after which it reached Chiang Mai.
In Chiang Mai, the ruling king had given his daughter in marriage to the king of Laos. He died in 1551 without an heir so the crown prince of Laos, Prince Chaiyachetta was called to sit on the throne. An year after the King of Laos died and there was a struggle for throne. Prince Chaiyachetta had to return to Laos so he took the Emerald Buddha along with him on the pretext of providing his people a chance to worship him. The King returned to Luang Prabang which was the capital of Laos and could not come back to Chiang Mai after that since he was replaced by some another person.
The Emerald Buddha remained in Luang Prabang for 12 years.
Burmese came to power and it was a threat to Luang Prabang so the capital was shifted to Vientiane, the present capital of Laos. It remained here till 1779 when Thailand attacked and brought the Emerald Buddha to Thailand.
Bangkok became the capital in 1782 and Buddha (Phra Kaeo Morakot) was housed and continues to be in Wat Phra Kaeo which is in the compound of royal palace.
On the left of entrance is a huge gum tree and a small building which houses the city pillar or "spirit of the city" (Sao Inthakin)
building housing the city pillar
Sao Inthakin or city pillar
very close to this monument are three gum trees (one in the picture above) which supports the city pillar to protect the city and till the time the tree is not cut, the city shall remain safe.
The city pillar (Lak Meuang) of Chiang Mai is known as Sao Inthakin. Every year in May a festival is held to honor the pillar which is inside. It is the home of city's guardian spirits.
The entrance to the shrine is flanked by yaksha or dwaarpala( temple guardians).
The entrance to the shrine is flanked by yaksha or dwaarpala( temple guardians).
Wat Chedi Luang
On the right side of this monument, is the viharna which was built in 1928.
The tall black with silver pillar over which is red and gold roof gives this viharan a very royal look. A row of chandeliers hang from the roof. Straight ahead is standing Buddha (Phra Chao Attarot)
Phra Chao Attarot
Buddha stands in Abhay mudra, with one hand raised in blessing and dispelling all fear. Bhay: fear, abhay: no fear
The image made of brass and mortar is said to date 14th century. The inside has been renovated in 2007.
Chedi Luang:
Behind the impressive viharana is the huge chedi.
Elephants surround the middle platform all around. One can imagine how majestic it must have looked with elephants standing midway on the platform.
Now, just few stand, their impression showing their existence. Also notice the temple bells or hor rakhang.
The chedi has niches in all four cardinal directions with an image of Buddha placed inside each. A ramp with beautiful pair of nagas sit on either side.
intricately crafted nagas
Niche on the eastern side has a replica of Emerald Buddha. It used to occupy this place before it was moved to Luang Prabang.
Lanna style ornately detailed viharn
Keep walking around the chedi. Different postures of Buddha are seen on the side. One of being the famous Buddha in reclining posture.
Points of interest:
- Buddha in four niches on the chedi
- replica of Emerald Buddha in the eastern niche
- beautiful nagas
- reclining Buddha
- city pillar
- free entry
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