We planned on going to Wat Umong first as this place is situated very close to the base of the mountain. Oo mong can literally be translated into tunnels in Thai. The full name of this Wat is Wat Oomong ( Oo mong) or Umong Suan Puthatham.
This 13th century wat was made by King Mengrai, first ruler of Lanna Kingdom. It has tunnels under the mound of its bell shaped stupa. It gets covered with moss and vines specially during the rainy season.
The narrow path leads to monks quarters, take the other path to reach temple entrance.
Dvaarpalas (Dvaar: a door, Paal: protector) or temple guardians who protect the place inside. They are usually fierce looking demon like figures but sometimes may also have an average human like figure. They hold a weapon, usually a mace, in their hand.
The presence of dvaarpalas is very commonly seen in the temples of India, Sri Lanka, Bali, Java, Cambodia and Thailand.
There are three entrances, a big one in the center and two small ones on either side. A replica of Ashoka pillar at Sarnath, India stands with its symbol of 4 lions facing back to back on an inverted lotus and the wheel of Dharma on top and below.
lions for power, the Dharm chakra with 24 spokes on top signifies that Dharma or righteousness
[not religion] is always at top.
The 700 year old temple was made by King Mengrai to honor a monk (in the picture above) who wanted to get away from the hustle of city and go off into forests for days to meditate in the quiet surroundings. The King built this temple with tunnels apparently painted to resemble forest to keep the monk give a feel of forest and solitude. The restoration and plastering over a period of years makes it impossible to see any of those now.
While going down the tunnel, you see niches on the sides with small Buddha images kept inside. They apparently were places to keep lamps in the times when there was no electricity.
Exit the tunnels and turning left leads to Chedi or stupa.
A flight of steps with mystical naga leads to chedi.
Passing through the chedi, walk to the end, go down the steps and keep walking straight past the end of tunnels, follow the trail and on the right side is a black stone Buddha.
It pains to see the emaciated image of Buddha in this stage. Gautam Buddha in the last days of his life not only renounced world but stopped eating as well. He became weak and bones showed through his body. But deep in meditation, he did not worry about anything.
This Lanna style of architeture existed for a very short time and there are very few remaining examples now.
On the sides are the monks living quarters, walk towards that and turn to your right. A huge collection of damaged Buddha statues is seen there.
As I have already mentioned, it is objectionable and improper to keep a Buddha head so this place apparently was started by a devotee who rescued a Buddha head from a nearby place. Since you cannot worship or throw the damaged piece, he decided to keep it under a tree. Over a period of years, it became a practice for people to put their damaged or broken Buddha images here.
Points of interest in this wat:
This 13th century wat was made by King Mengrai, first ruler of Lanna Kingdom. It has tunnels under the mound of its bell shaped stupa. It gets covered with moss and vines specially during the rainy season.
steps leading to temple
On the sides of these steps, are fierce looking Dvaarpalas or temple guardians.
Dvaarpalas (Dvaar: a door, Paal: protector) or temple guardians who protect the place inside. They are usually fierce looking demon like figures but sometimes may also have an average human like figure. They hold a weapon, usually a mace, in their hand.
The presence of dvaarpalas is very commonly seen in the temples of India, Sri Lanka, Bali, Java, Cambodia and Thailand.
Ashoka pillar replica
The symbols signify:lions for power, the Dharm chakra with 24 spokes on top signifies that Dharma or righteousness
[not religion] is always at top.
inscription stone near the pillar
Ashoka, the great Mauryan dynasty king ruled India in 3rd century BC. He was a devout Buddhist and helped in spreading Buddhism across the Indian subcontinent and Sri Lanka. There were many of these pillars erected by Ashoka which were inscribed with Buddhist teachings. Very few of them remain now.
view of the three tunnel entrances
entrance to center tunnel
The tunnel leads to an altar on which sits a golden Buddha.
Image of Buddha at the altar
The two tunnels open to the rear side and criss cross the central tunnel.
Buddha image at the end of one tunnel
There is also a mat just in front of each image for devotees to sit and meditate.Exit the tunnels and turning left leads to Chedi or stupa.
close up of naga
bell shaped Chedi
This Lanna style of architeture existed for a very short time and there are very few remaining examples now.
On the sides are the monks living quarters, walk towards that and turn to your right. A huge collection of damaged Buddha statues is seen there.
damaged seated Buddha
more damaged pieces
more of these...
small pieces kept under a tree
Very close to the exit gate is a rest room. Notice that you need to remove your footwear there and change into slippers provided.Points of interest in this wat:
- Entry is free
- Criss cross tunnels at the end of which are images of Buddha.
- Ashoka pillar
- bell-shaped chedi covered with plants at places
- black emaciated Buddha statue
- a congregation of damaged Buddha statues
- for those interested, a pond where to feed fish.
I think not may people are aware to not keep the head of buddha . I have seen just the head of buddha being sold in the market and people using them as a showpiece in their garden
ReplyDeleteTruly agree
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