Budhaneelkantha, Kathmandu, Nepal

Approximately half an hour drive from Kathmandu at the foothills of Shivpuri lies the relaxed form of Vishnu called the Budhaneelkanth (बूढ़ानीलकण्ठ)

Lord Vishnu at entrance

main door to the temple complex

Here, old does not reflect to the chronological age but refers to ancient. How and when did the idol come here is not clearly known.
It was built during the seventh or eighth century during the reign of Vishnugupt of Licchavi period. It was brought and located here.
There is another famous legend which mentions that a farmer while tilling his land accidentally struck the deity. Blood started coming out from the ground. The idol was then relocated to its present location.

The moment you set your eyes on the deity, a sense of peace fills you. A five meter Vishnu reclines cross legged peacefully on the coils of the King of serpents, Shesh Naag (शेषनाग ), in a thirteen meter water body. Sheshnaag's 11 hoods form a canopy over Vishnu's head.
He is also referred as Jalakshayana (जलक्षयन ), jal water and shayana sleeping. So, Vishnu sleeping in anantsagar (अनन्तसागर  ) or the cosmic ocean.

close up of reclining Lord Vishnu with silver crown

The name Budhaneelkantha has no association with Buddha. Let me dissect the word and tell you the meanings. Budha (बूढ़ा) means ancient and neelkantha (नीलकण्ठ ) means "blue throat". So it comes out to be "ancient blue throat".

However, "Blue throat" god refers to Lord Shiva. According to the legend, during the cosmic churning of ocean, many things came out along with nectar of gods and poison. Everyone wanted to have the nectar but no one wanted to have the poison. Lord Shiva obliged by drinking that poison. As soon as the poison touched his throat it started burning.

With burning throat, Shiva went to the north of Kathmandu and struck his trident on the ground. As soon as the trident hit the ground, water started coming out. Shiva drank the water to calm the burning. The lake came to be known as Gosaikund. The water in this pond is said to be the water of Gosaikund.

On the right side, Lord Vishnu holds Sudarshan Chakra and a lotus.

On the other side mace and conch can be seen.

Lord Vishnu's feet

Everyone can see from above but only Hindus are permitted to go down to touch the deity's feet. King Pratap Malla, one of the famous rulers of Kathmandu had a prophetic vision. According to it, death would come to any King immediately after he visits this temple.

All successors to the throne refrained from paying homage at this temple. However, it is said that King Birendra Bir Bikram Shah Dev defied this convention and paid a visit to this temple. He and his entire family were soon assasinated, thus ending his lineage. Thanks to Mr. Kumar who updated me on this incident.
A replica of this temple also exists in the Royal Palace which is not open to public viewing. Another sleeping Vishnu resides at Balaju Gardens, in Kathmandu.

Lord Ganesha temple

Shivalinga and yoni just outside Ganesha temple

On the side sits Nandi facing a golden entrance door to Vishnu's temple.

Lord Vishnu on the side of main entrance door

Nandi sitting outside, facing the entrance to Lord Vishnu's door.

Nandi is the mount and devotee of Lord Shiva and this is a Vishnu temple!

It is of course known that Lord Vishnu was worshipped in the 6th and 7th century but then Shaivism took over till the 12th and 13th century.  Vaishnavism was revived during the rule of King Jayasthi Malla in the 14th century.
Was the idol of deity lost during the brief period and later found in a field?

Lord Vishnu rests on Sheshnaag whereas Naag encircles Lord Shiva's neck. Some Shaivites claim that they see a replica of Shiva under Vishnu. Is there a meshing of the two forms?

According to the holy scripture, Ramayana, the major temple at Rameshwaram has been dedicated to Shiva by Lord Ram who was the incarnation of Vishnu.

Even, Tulsi Ramayana is said to have been narrated by Lord Shiva to his consort Parvati.
In that context, do we really find any difference between Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu? The debate can be unending, but for me I am happy to pay obeisance to both in the same way.

Candi Shiva, Prambanan temple

This post is in continuation of  Candi Prambanan, Yogyakarta . The post was getting too long so I have split it in parts. Since, Prambanan is primarily a Shiva temple, I shall focus on the Shiva temple in this post.

Ruins of Shiv temple

 Shiva statue

This 37x37x47 meter east facing temple is the highest and biggest temple in the Prambanan complex. This is also the only structure which has entrances in the 4 cardinal directions and also houses 3 other small temples.

entrance to Shiva temple

The "Prambanan panel" with Kinnars at entrance. I have written in detail about this in my earlier post,  Candi Prambanan, Yogyakarta

Makars on either side of entrance

Shiv temple, other entrance

One doorway with an ascetic meditating under Kaal

Kaal at one of the entrances of Shiva temple

Before you reach the main sanctum sanctorum or the garbhgriha (गर्भगृह) or the chamber which houses the main deity, turn to the left. The balustrade and walls are adorned with reliefs from Ramayana, the story about Lord Rama and his wife Sita. It is absolutely impossible to put all the pictures in this post. I am uploading just a few of them.

Rama goes into exile with his wife, Sita and brother Lakshman

Hanuman burning Lanka with his tail

 Sita sitting in Ashoka Vatika on the right side 

fight between Bali and Sugreev

Rama kills Bali

Making bridge (Setu) to cross the Indian Ocean to reach Lanka

Apart from these, there are Lokpalas, or celestial guardians of the eight directions.

One of them is Kuber (in the picture above) who is associated with the planet Venus.  Kuber is the god of wealth guarded by fierce looking dwarpaal or guardians.

Reliefs on the temple wall

The main chamber :
A 3 meter high, 4- armed Shiv, or Siwa as he is known in Indonesia, stands on a lotus over a yoni supported by a naag (serpent), on the north side of pedestal.

It is very dark inside and taking a picture was a daunting task.

He has a crecent moon on his head (Chandrakapala), a crown of tousled hair ( jatamukuta), third eye on his forehead (trinetra). He holds prayer beads (aksamala),  a trident (trishul).

   Shiva standing on a lotus                                      Shiva yoni supported by a Naag head

Shiv's standing on a lotus is considered as the intermingling of Hinduism and Buddhism.

Some historians believe that Lord Shiva is a depiction of King Balitung. 

This practice of personification of King in a God or Devraaja has been common practice in South-East Asia.

In Angkor Wat, the huge Vishnu is said to be King Jayavarman VII.

Rishi or Sage Agatsya:

Moving in a clockwise direction from Shiva chamber is the temple of 
Sage Agatsya.

Sage Agastya

He was the teacher of Lord Shiva. He holds prayer beads in one hand and kamandal in the other. Kamandal is an oblong pot made of dried gourd or coconut shell used mainly by Hindu ascetics.

Lord Ganesha:
Ganesha, the son of Shiva and Parvati is seen sitting on a lotus in the west chamber.

Lord Ganesha

He is the obstacle remover and full of wisdom. Here at the temple, the trunk is turned towards the left and into a bowl of sweets. This means that worshipping him will provide us material prosperity.

Durga as Mahisasurmardini:
Moving further towards North is goddess Durga depicted as Mahishasurmardini or the slayer of the demon Mahisasur. The 8-armed deity holds a weapon in each arm which were given to her by gods to slay the demon.

It is said that there is a likeness between the Rakai Pikatan's wife Pramodhawardhani and the deity Durga. Pramodhawardhani later got Candi Plaosan constructed which is just a few kilometers away from this temple.

Goddess Durga

Lord Vishnu gave his Sudarshan Chakra, Shiva gave her his trident (trishul), Indra gave his thunderbolt (vajra). Other than this she holds a conch, bow and arrow, sword, lotus. In the top right hand, she does not hold anything and blesses her devotees.

Mahisasur was both a buffalo and a demon, that is why in the above picture you see Durga's victory over the buffalo by standing on top of him and that of demon by holding him by his hair.

Nandi temple or Candi Nandi:

How can Nandi not be present where his master is? Nandi is not only the mount of Shiva but also his ardent devotee. He sits outside the temple waiting for his master's orders.

Candi Nandi facing Shiva temple

The retoration of this temple was completed  in 2009 afterit was damaged by an earthquake in 2006. Behind Candi Nandi, you can a Kelir temple. This west facing temple is 15x15 square meters and is 25 meters high.
The panel at the base of the temple are clearly visible.

Nandi

The single chamber is occupied by a huge monolith sitting Nandi.

Nandi sits inside the temple with Chandra (moon)  and Surya (sun) at the back

Behind Nandi, there are two idols. On the right side is Chandra and to the left of Nandi is Surya.

Chandra, the Moon god stands on a carriage pulled by 10 horses. He holds special significance as Lord Shiva holds moon or Chandra on his head.

Surya or the Sun god also stands on a carriage drawn by 7 horses. He holds a lotus in his hands.

reliefs on outside temple wall

more reliefs

After coming down, I turn to the temple of Vishnu and then go to the right of Shiva temple to see the Brahma temple.

I continue to next post on Candi Vishnu and Candi Brahma, Candi Vishnu and Candi Brahma, Prambanan temple

Jomsom, a secluded paradise

Jomson, the capital of Mustang district of Nepal was going to be our home for the next four days and our base for the jouneny to Muktinath. Known as Dzong-Sam or Dzong-Sampa in Tibetan, it is around 2700 meters above sea level.

Our much awaited journey to Muktinath began from Pokhara to Jomsom and then to Muktinath.

With boarding pass in hand, we had decided to take the first flight to Jomsom so as to continue our journey to Muktinath the same day.

Passengers waiting for the boarding announcement

The aircraft was small and we boarded the plane quickly. I so often hear from people who think that these small aircraft are not safe nor are they stable. I found the pilots quite capable in handling the plane. It is not easy to steer the aircraft, especially in the weather conditions and the winding path between the mountains. The pilots are totally confident with their controls. Mishaps can happen any time so I can only say that if you plan to visit those regions, feel free to go without any inhibitions.

I enjoyed watching the pilot with his controls

All eyes focus on scenes to be clicked

As soon as the aircraft took off, looking down was Seti Gandaki (सेती गंदकी) or the white Gandaki. The water is said to be white in contrast to the Kali Gandaki whose water is black due to the black silt it carries with it.

First view of snow capped is always a pleasure for the eyes

Kali Gandaki flows below

Welcome to Jomsom airport

Since everyone is busy taking pictures, the security makes it a point to hustle them away from the tarmac. The flight goes back to Pokhara in 5 minutes so it is time for the passengers to board.

Dhaulagiri (धौलागिरी ) in the background as seen from the airport. It is the seventh highest mountain in the world. Nestled below Nilgiri and Dhaulagiri is the small town of Jomsom. Kali Gandaki, famous for its Shaligrams, flows in the world's deepest gorge below.
An aircraft lost control whilst flying over it two years back and all the passengers succumbed to the crash.

walking the street to our hotel

The local residents of this region are Thakalis.

Our home for the next four days

View of the main street from our room

Early in the morning before sunrise, vegetable sellers sit with bags full of apples, beans, greens, cabbage, carrots, packets of dried apples, Marpha brandy bottles and dried herbs.

There was severe shortage of jambu, known as jimbu in Kathmandu. I was told by people that since I was travelling to Jomsom, I would get very quality of this herb there.

Jimbu is a hybrid of two onion species, Allium hypsistum and Allium przewalskianum . Allium is the botanical name for onion family. Packed with medicinal properties jimbu is used not only in Nepal cuisine but also forms a very important and precious ingredient in Kumaon cuisine where it is known as jambu. The dry grass does not smell special but once tempered in ghee, the aromatic infusion imparts an unparallel taste to any dish ranging from meats, vegetable or be it the poor potatoes.

The arid cold terrain of Mustang supports in producing the best quality Jambu. The vegetation is that region is totally dependent on snow fall as there are no rains throughout the year.

I was talking to the locals in Jomsom and they said the snowfall was little so the production has been very less. Moreover, the herb is hand picked for which people climb up the mountains in search of jambu. The herb is thrashed and dried. If you dry in sun which is faster then it loses its green color so it is dried inside which takes a longer time but the final result is better.

Being a Kumaoni, I was thrilled to see the packets. The seller refused to budge from his price inspite of my saying that I might take a lot if the price is good. The price, I noticed has soared immensely over a period of years.
I have used this herb in Aloo ke gutkey

A welcome breakfast before we embark on our journey to Muktinath temple

After Muktinath visit, the next day we thought of going around the place. We climbed to a small Shiva temple close to a museum. The view below was beautiful. Deep blue clear sky devoid of any pollution was treat to our eyes.

When you look down the sleepy satisfied town, you feel it is not worth running and struggling back home.

Shiva temple with Nandi sitting outside

Inside the temple

The region is famous for apples. Apples of Marpha area are supposed to be of  very 

good quality. Visitors take bag loads to Kathmandu where they are almost double the price.

Apple brandy is also made in the region

A unit of Nepalese Army is stationed in Jomsom. Just opposite to this unit is a 

small Saraswati temple. School going children pay their respects to this goddess of learning.

"Welcome to climbing school" is seen on the mountain behind the Nepalese Army Unit. I,

 of course could not have taken a picture of the area.

We had heard that one could find Shaligrams on the river bed. With an optimistic mind set, we ventured on our expedition. I had liberally applied sun screen but my husband thought otherwise. Yes, he was badly tanned :(

The Kali Gandaki river bed is almost a quarter of a mile wide so, finding suitable Shaligrams was not going to be easy. There was a grould of local girls finding their luck and they indeed were lucky as they showed me some of their treasure saying that they would fetch good price in the market.

For us, we turned stones for almost three hours. Many Shaligrams were fractured as they are broken by collectors to check the "Chakra" formation inside. Many of them were not to our liking. Definitely, finding Shaligrams in this vast place is not easy.

Around 11 am, dust and high gusty winds start blowing and it becomes impossible to proceed. This is the main reason why the flights take off and land for a short period of time in the morning. They land, off load passengers, board another group and take off. Once the winds start blowing, it is impossible to land and take off.

It is a common sight to see wood stacks on roof tops. Higher the pile, richer the person is supposed to be. The wood supplies fuel during the winters for keeping the house warm.

The small video was taken by my husband while I was watching an aircraft take off.

Jomsom airport

Bidding adieu to Jomsom from my aircraft window

Taking last glimpse of Dhaulagiri and praying that I revisit this place sometime in my life.