Jomsom, a secluded paradise

Jomson, the capital of Mustang district of Nepal was going to be our home for the next four days and our base for the jouneny to Muktinath. Known as Dzong-Sam or Dzong-Sampa in Tibetan, it is around 2700 meters above sea level.

Our much awaited journey to Muktinath began from Pokhara to Jomsom and then to Muktinath.

With boarding pass in hand, we had decided to take the first flight to Jomsom so as to continue our journey to Muktinath the same day.

Passengers waiting for the boarding announcement

The aircraft was small and we boarded the plane quickly. I so often hear from people who think that these small aircraft are not safe nor are they stable. I found the pilots quite capable in handling the plane. It is not easy to steer the aircraft, especially in the weather conditions and the winding path between the mountains. The pilots are totally confident with their controls. Mishaps can happen any time so I can only say that if you plan to visit those regions, feel free to go without any inhibitions.

I enjoyed watching the pilot with his controls

All eyes focus on scenes to be clicked

As soon as the aircraft took off, looking down was Seti Gandaki (सेती गंदकी) or the white Gandaki. The water is said to be white in contrast to the Kali Gandaki whose water is black due to the black silt it carries with it.

First view of snow capped is always a pleasure for the eyes

Kali Gandaki flows below

Welcome to Jomsom airport

Since everyone is busy taking pictures, the security makes it a point to hustle them away from the tarmac. The flight goes back to Pokhara in 5 minutes so it is time for the passengers to board.

Dhaulagiri (धौलागिरी ) in the background as seen from the airport. It is the seventh highest mountain in the world. Nestled below Nilgiri and Dhaulagiri is the small town of Jomsom. Kali Gandaki, famous for its Shaligrams, flows in the world's deepest gorge below.
An aircraft lost control whilst flying over it two years back and all the passengers succumbed to the crash.

walking the street to our hotel

The local residents of this region are Thakalis.

Our home for the next four days

View of the main street from our room

Early in the morning before sunrise, vegetable sellers sit with bags full of apples, beans, greens, cabbage, carrots, packets of dried apples, Marpha brandy bottles and dried herbs.

There was severe shortage of jambu, known as jimbu in Kathmandu. I was told by people that since I was travelling to Jomsom, I would get very quality of this herb there.

Jimbu is a hybrid of two onion species, Allium hypsistum and Allium przewalskianum . Allium is the botanical name for onion family. Packed with medicinal properties jimbu is used not only in Nepal cuisine but also forms a very important and precious ingredient in Kumaon cuisine where it is known as jambu. The dry grass does not smell special but once tempered in ghee, the aromatic infusion imparts an unparallel taste to any dish ranging from meats, vegetable or be it the poor potatoes.

The arid cold terrain of Mustang supports in producing the best quality Jambu. The vegetation is that region is totally dependent on snow fall as there are no rains throughout the year.

I was talking to the locals in Jomsom and they said the snowfall was little so the production has been very less. Moreover, the herb is hand picked for which people climb up the mountains in search of jambu. The herb is thrashed and dried. If you dry in sun which is faster then it loses its green color so it is dried inside which takes a longer time but the final result is better.

Being a Kumaoni, I was thrilled to see the packets. The seller refused to budge from his price inspite of my saying that I might take a lot if the price is good. The price, I noticed has soared immensely over a period of years.
I have used this herb in Aloo ke gutkey

A welcome breakfast before we embark on our journey to Muktinath temple

After Muktinath visit, the next day we thought of going around the place. We climbed to a small Shiva temple close to a museum. The view below was beautiful. Deep blue clear sky devoid of any pollution was treat to our eyes.

When you look down the sleepy satisfied town, you feel it is not worth running and struggling back home.

Shiva temple with Nandi sitting outside

Inside the temple

The region is famous for apples. Apples of Marpha area are supposed to be of  very 

good quality. Visitors take bag loads to Kathmandu where they are almost double the price.

Apple brandy is also made in the region

A unit of Nepalese Army is stationed in Jomsom. Just opposite to this unit is a 

small Saraswati temple. School going children pay their respects to this goddess of learning.

"Welcome to climbing school" is seen on the mountain behind the Nepalese Army Unit. I,

 of course could not have taken a picture of the area.

We had heard that one could find Shaligrams on the river bed. With an optimistic mind set, we ventured on our expedition. I had liberally applied sun screen but my husband thought otherwise. Yes, he was badly tanned :(

The Kali Gandaki river bed is almost a quarter of a mile wide so, finding suitable Shaligrams was not going to be easy. There was a grould of local girls finding their luck and they indeed were lucky as they showed me some of their treasure saying that they would fetch good price in the market.

For us, we turned stones for almost three hours. Many Shaligrams were fractured as they are broken by collectors to check the "Chakra" formation inside. Many of them were not to our liking. Definitely, finding Shaligrams in this vast place is not easy.

Around 11 am, dust and high gusty winds start blowing and it becomes impossible to proceed. This is the main reason why the flights take off and land for a short period of time in the morning. They land, off load passengers, board another group and take off. Once the winds start blowing, it is impossible to land and take off.

It is a common sight to see wood stacks on roof tops. Higher the pile, richer the person is supposed to be. The wood supplies fuel during the winters for keeping the house warm.

The small video was taken by my husband while I was watching an aircraft take off.

Jomsom airport

Bidding adieu to Jomsom from my aircraft window

Taking last glimpse of Dhaulagiri and praying that I revisit this place sometime in my life.