Thursday, February 25, 2016

Candi Vishnu and Candi Brahma, Prambanan temple

In my earlier post Candi Shiva, Prambanan temple, I had written about Candi Shiva. In this one, I shall write about Candi Vishnu or Wisnu stands on the left side of Candi Shiva and Candi Brahma is on its right side.
Both these temples are east facing and  are exactly identical in their structure and measurements.



Here too the entrance to the temple is guarded by makars on both sides. The temple measure 20x20 square meters and is 33 meters high.

Kaal mukh at the door with makars on sides

Vishnu standing on lotus over a yoni

The four-armed God has a Sudarshan chakra in one hand, a conch in the other and mace and lotus in the other two hands.

a kaal mukh and makar while descending the stairs

Bas-reliefs:
As in the Shiva temple, there are reliefs on balustrades and on walls. One thing I noticed was some of the panels were not in order and did not match with the ones they were fitted with so had a little difficulty in understanding and identifying them. Most probably during restoration, they just fitted the stones into places.
There are many panels portraying the life of Lord Krishna also.

Rama

Brahma

Vaahan temple:
Garuda is Vishnu's mount and he probably occupied the west facing temple in front of Candi Vishnu. Why I say probably is that there is nothing inside the single celled chamber. It has either been plundered or as some archaeologists believe that there never was an idol inside and it was just an empty chamber.


Candi Brahma:
This temple is exactly similar to Candi Vishnu measuring 20x20x30 meters. There is one entrance which leads to one chamber of deity.



pictures of the state at which the temple was found


Many rishis in meditating postures form the upper panel of this temple just above the Prambanan panels at the ground level.

Brahma
The beautifully sculptured idol of Brahma with his 4 heads stands on a lotus over a yoni. He holds a kamandala, book of vedas, a lotus and a aksmala in his hands.

Bas-reliefs in this temple:
Many Rishis from Vishnu Purana can be seen in this temple


Rishi Ved Vyasa
Rishi Ved Vyas wrote Mahabharata, another epic of Hinduism.

 Brahma on the left (unfortunately the two panels do not blend)

Vishnu lying on Sheshnaag or Anant

Sheshnaag is the 7 hooded serpent on whom Lord Vishnu rests.

 Lord Krishna killing Kaliya, the giant serpent

Krishna slaying a demon

Vaahan temple:
Brahma's mount is a swan or angsa. Similar to the Garunda temple, this west facing temple is devoid of any idol. There is just an empty chamber.

Decline and restoration of Prambanan temple:
The temples soon began to decline after construction in the 9th century. They collapsed during a major earthquake in the 16th century and remained neglected for decades after that.
They were discovered in the early 19th century after which many of the stones were carted by people for building their houses. Restoration started around 1918.


 Piles and piles of stones waiting to be put in their proper places.

so much more to assemble

The temples again suffered heavy loss during the 2006 earthquake and many temples were closed for quite some time.
Again in 2014, the temple remained closed due to the volcanic eruption of Mount Merapi which led to accumulation of volcanic ashes over it.
Merapi comes from a combination of two words: Meru (मेरु ), which is a sacred mountain and considered as the center of all physical and spiritual universes and Api (अपि) which means fire. So Merapi means the "fire spitting mountain".

It is not easy to re-built the grandeur of the temple, nor is there  a will to do so. It needs strong determination, time and money. We can only pray that Mount Merapi is also kind enough not to erupt and destroy whatever is remaining.






pictures from the information board

There are many other temples in that area. 



Candi Lumbung:
Very close to Prambanan is Candi Lumbung. Just follow the signs and the temple stands there.


The 9th century Buddhist temple 

 Surrounded by Pervara temples most of them damaged

Then, there is Candi Sewu another Buddhist temple and a little further is the Candi Plaosan which I have heard is very beautiful. As for me, I was dead tired and could not think of going further.


 a deer park on way to exit

 what better to quench your thirst with?

There are plenty of shops with reasonably priced food. After so much walking one is bound to feel hungry.

 souvenirs to take home

Before I conclude my post, I would like to thank Jack and Gwenelle for sharing their pictures with me.

How to reach Prambanan temple:
  • Since these temples are just half an hour drive from Yogyakarta, reaching there is not difficult. If you are close to Malioboro and want to travel in low budget then Trans Jogja has green colored public buses. They ply on that route also.
  • Apart from that, taxis are quite reasonably priced. Booking taxis in advance is helpful. The hotel staff should also be able to help you with this.
  • If you plan to visit Borobudur and Prambanan then it is economical to buy a combined ticket. The entry ticket for foreign nationals is different from the residents.
  • Entry ticket to Prambanan is $18 and that of Borobudur is $20, but if you buy a combined one then you pay $30.
  • The validity of this ticket is spread over two consecutive days. If you are not in a rush, then do one of them the other next day.
  • The office provides free water, coffee or tea to visitors. Ask for it, they forget to offer that.
  • If you are in no mood to drink that, empty your cup into a bottle and you can sip it later on.
  • The sun is very hot, and it shows no mercy ! you get sunburnt easily. Slather sun screen liberally. Also carry a cap.
  • Refeshing towels are very welcome.
  • Also take plenty of water, there is no place you get water once inside the temple complex.
  • Carry an umbrella especially if visiting during rainy season. The clouds just open and start pouring.
Can Borobudur and Prambanan be done in a day?
Both Borobudur and Prambanan can be done in a day but if you do it over two days it will be more relaxed. Keep certain things in mind. You need an early start. Just to give an idea I am writing a schedule which we followed.

Plan on visiting Borobudur and Prambanan within the same ticket. Combined ticket is cheaper. Single entry to Borobudur is $20 and that of Prambanan is $18 but one ticket applicable to both is $30. Visit Borobudur in the first part of your visit. With this ticket, you can visit Borobudur on one day and Prambanan the next day.

combined ticket

8:00 am                                  leave hotel after a good breakfast (because you will need all the energy                                                  during the day!)
9:00                                       reach Borobudur
9:00 - 11:30 am                    see Borobudur and back at parking lot  (if you don't mandear amongst the                                                shops)
11.30 am - 2:00 pm               proceed to Prambanan, have a quick lunch enroute
2:00 pm                                 reach Prambanan (go around and see as much as you can, take advantage                                                of the train that plies in the temple compound).
4:00 or 4:30                           finish and return to your hotel.

Most of the cars are hired for 8 hours, so if you have that constraint then leave Prambanan by 3:30 pm so you are just in time to reach the hotel.

I now will start writing about Candi Borobudur, Indonesia.


Tuesday, February 16, 2016

Candi Shiva, Prambanan temple

This post is in continuation of  Candi Prambanan, Yogyakarta . The post was getting too long so I have split it in parts. Since, Prambanan is primarily a Shiva temple, I shall focus on the Shiva temple in this post.

Ruins of Shiv temple

 Shiva statue

This 37x37x47 meter east facing temple is the highest and biggest temple in the Prambanan complex. This is also the only structure which has entrances in the 4 cardinal directions and also houses 3 other small temples.

entrance to Shiva temple


The "Prambanan panel" with Kinnars at entrance. I have written in detail about this in my earlier post,  Candi Prambanan, Yogyakarta

Makars on either side of entrance

Shiv temple, other entrance

One doorway with an ascetic meditating under Kaal


Kaal at one of the entrances of Shiva temple

Before you reach the main sanctum sanctorum or the garbhgriha (गर्भगृह) or the chamber which houses the main deity, turn to the left. The balustrade and walls are adorned with reliefs from Ramayana, the story about Lord Rama and his wife Sita. It is absolutely impossible to put all the pictures in this post. I am uploading just a few of them.

Rama goes into exile with his wife, Sita and brother Lakshman

Hanuman burning Lanka with his tail

 Sita sitting in Ashoka Vatika on the right side 

fight between Bali and Sugreev

Rama kills Bali

Making bridge (Setu) to cross the Indian Ocean to reach Lanka

Apart from these, there are Lokpalas, or celestial guardians of the eight directions.


One of them is Kuber (in the picture above) who is associated with the planet Venus.  Kuber is the god of wealth guarded by fierce looking dwarpaal or guardians.


Reliefs on the temple wall

The main chamber :
A 3 meter high, 4- armed Shiv, or Siwa as he is known in Indonesia, stands on a lotus over a yoni supported by a naag (serpent), on the north side of pedestal.



It is very dark inside and taking a picture was a daunting task.
He has a crecent moon on his head (Chandrakapala), a crown of tousled hair ( jatamukuta), third eye on his forehead (trinetra). He holds prayer beads (aksamala),  a trident (trishul).

   Shiva standing on a lotus                                      Shiva yoni supported by a Naag head

Shiv's standing on a lotus is considered as the intermingling of Hinduism and Buddhism.
Some historians believe that Lord Shiva is a depiction of King Balitung. 
This practice of personification of King in a God or Devraaja has been common practice in South-East Asia.
In Angkor Wat, the huge Vishnu is said to be King Jayavarman VII.

Rishi or Sage Agatsya:
Moving in a clockwise direction from Shiva chamber is the temple of 
Sage Agatsya.


Sage Agastya

He was the teacher of Lord Shiva. He holds prayer beads in one hand and kamandal in the other. Kamandal is an oblong pot made of dried gourd or coconut shell used mainly by Hindu ascetics.

Lord Ganesha:
Ganesha, the son of Shiva and Parvati is seen sitting on a lotus in the west chamber.


Lord Ganesha

He is the obstacle remover and full of wisdom. Here at the temple, the trunk is turned towards the left and into a bowl of sweets. This means that worshipping him will provide us material prosperity.

Durga as Mahisasurmardini:

Moving further towards North is goddess Durga depicted as Mahishasurmardini or the slayer of the demon Mahisasur. The 8-armed deity holds a weapon in each arm which were given to her by gods to slay the demon.

It is said that there is a likeness between the Rakai Pikatan's wife Pramodhawardhani and the deity Durga. Pramodhawardhani later got Candi Plaosan constructed which is just a few kilometers away from this temple.


Goddess Durga

Lord Vishnu gave his Sudarshan Chakra, Shiva gave her his trident (trishul), Indra gave his thunderbolt (vajra). Other than this she holds a conch, bow and arrow, sword, lotus. In the top right hand, she does not hold anything and blesses her devotees.

Mahisasur was both a buffalo and a demon, that is why in the above picture you see Durga's victory over the buffalo by standing on top of him and that of demon by holding him by his hair.

Nandi temple or Candi Nandi:
How can Nandi not be present where his master is? Nandi is not only the mount of Shiva but also his ardent devotee. He sits outside the temple waiting for his master's orders.

Candi Nandi facing Shiva temple

The retoration of this temple was completed  in 2009 afterit was damaged by an earthquake in 2006. Behind Candi Nandi, you can a Kelir temple. This west facing temple is 15x15 square meters and is 25 meters high.
The panel at the base of the temple are clearly visible.

Nandi

The single chamber is occupied by a huge monolith sitting Nandi.

Nandi sits inside the temple with Chandra (moon)  and Surya (sun) at the back

Behind Nandi, there are two idols. On the right side is Chandra and to the left of Nandi is Surya.


Chandra, the Moon god stands on a carriage pulled by 10 horses. He holds special significance as Lord Shiva holds moon or Chandra on his head.



Surya or the Sun god also stands on a carriage drawn by 7 horses. He holds a lotus in his hands.

reliefs on outside temple wall

more reliefs

After coming down, I turn to the temple of Vishnu and then go to the right of Shiva temple to see the Brahma temple.

I continue to next post on Candi Vishnu and Candi Brahma, Candi Vishnu and Candi Brahma, Prambanan temple