Thursday, February 25, 2016

Candi Vishnu and Candi Brahma, Prambanan temple

In my earlier post Candi Shiva, Prambanan temple, I had written about Candi Shiva. In this one, I shall write about Candi Vishnu or Wisnu stands on the left side of Candi Shiva and Candi Brahma is on its right side.
Both these temples are east facing and  are exactly identical in their structure and measurements.



Here too the entrance to the temple is guarded by makars on both sides. The temple measure 20x20 square meters and is 33 meters high.

Kaal mukh at the door with makars on sides

Vishnu standing on lotus over a yoni

The four-armed God has a Sudarshan chakra in one hand, a conch in the other and mace and lotus in the other two hands.

a kaal mukh and makar while descending the stairs

Bas-reliefs:
As in the Shiva temple, there are reliefs on balustrades and on walls. One thing I noticed was some of the panels were not in order and did not match with the ones they were fitted with so had a little difficulty in understanding and identifying them. Most probably during restoration, they just fitted the stones into places.
There are many panels portraying the life of Lord Krishna also.

Rama

Brahma

Vaahan temple:
Garuda is Vishnu's mount and he probably occupied the west facing temple in front of Candi Vishnu. Why I say probably is that there is nothing inside the single celled chamber. It has either been plundered or as some archaeologists believe that there never was an idol inside and it was just an empty chamber.


Candi Brahma:
This temple is exactly similar to Candi Vishnu measuring 20x20x30 meters. There is one entrance which leads to one chamber of deity.



pictures of the state at which the temple was found


Many rishis in meditating postures form the upper panel of this temple just above the Prambanan panels at the ground level.

Brahma
The beautifully sculptured idol of Brahma with his 4 heads stands on a lotus over a yoni. He holds a kamandala, book of vedas, a lotus and a aksmala in his hands.

Bas-reliefs in this temple:
Many Rishis from Vishnu Purana can be seen in this temple


Rishi Ved Vyasa
Rishi Ved Vyas wrote Mahabharata, another epic of Hinduism.

 Brahma on the left (unfortunately the two panels do not blend)

Vishnu lying on Sheshnaag or Anant

Sheshnaag is the 7 hooded serpent on whom Lord Vishnu rests.

 Lord Krishna killing Kaliya, the giant serpent

Krishna slaying a demon

Vaahan temple:
Brahma's mount is a swan or angsa. Similar to the Garunda temple, this west facing temple is devoid of any idol. There is just an empty chamber.

Decline and restoration of Prambanan temple:
The temples soon began to decline after construction in the 9th century. They collapsed during a major earthquake in the 16th century and remained neglected for decades after that.
They were discovered in the early 19th century after which many of the stones were carted by people for building their houses. Restoration started around 1918.


 Piles and piles of stones waiting to be put in their proper places.

so much more to assemble

The temples again suffered heavy loss during the 2006 earthquake and many temples were closed for quite some time.
Again in 2014, the temple remained closed due to the volcanic eruption of Mount Merapi which led to accumulation of volcanic ashes over it.
Merapi comes from a combination of two words: Meru (मेरु ), which is a sacred mountain and considered as the center of all physical and spiritual universes and Api (अपि) which means fire. So Merapi means the "fire spitting mountain".

It is not easy to re-built the grandeur of the temple, nor is there  a will to do so. It needs strong determination, time and money. We can only pray that Mount Merapi is also kind enough not to erupt and destroy whatever is remaining.






pictures from the information board

There are many other temples in that area. 



Candi Lumbung:
Very close to Prambanan is Candi Lumbung. Just follow the signs and the temple stands there.


The 9th century Buddhist temple 

 Surrounded by Pervara temples most of them damaged

Then, there is Candi Sewu another Buddhist temple and a little further is the Candi Plaosan which I have heard is very beautiful. As for me, I was dead tired and could not think of going further.


 a deer park on way to exit

 what better to quench your thirst with?

There are plenty of shops with reasonably priced food. After so much walking one is bound to feel hungry.

 souvenirs to take home

Before I conclude my post, I would like to thank Jack and Gwenelle for sharing their pictures with me.

How to reach Prambanan temple:
  • Since these temples are just half an hour drive from Yogyakarta, reaching there is not difficult. If you are close to Malioboro and want to travel in low budget then Trans Jogja has green colored public buses. They ply on that route also.
  • Apart from that, taxis are quite reasonably priced. Booking taxis in advance is helpful. The hotel staff should also be able to help you with this.
  • If you plan to visit Borobudur and Prambanan then it is economical to buy a combined ticket. The entry ticket for foreign nationals is different from the residents.
  • Entry ticket to Prambanan is $18 and that of Borobudur is $20, but if you buy a combined one then you pay $30.
  • The validity of this ticket is spread over two consecutive days. If you are not in a rush, then do one of them the other next day.
  • The office provides free water, coffee or tea to visitors. Ask for it, they forget to offer that.
  • If you are in no mood to drink that, empty your cup into a bottle and you can sip it later on.
  • The sun is very hot, and it shows no mercy ! you get sunburnt easily. Slather sun screen liberally. Also carry a cap.
  • Refeshing towels are very welcome.
  • Also take plenty of water, there is no place you get water once inside the temple complex.
  • Carry an umbrella especially if visiting during rainy season. The clouds just open and start pouring.
Can Borobudur and Prambanan be done in a day?
Both Borobudur and Prambanan can be done in a day but if you do it over two days it will be more relaxed. Keep certain things in mind. You need an early start. Just to give an idea I am writing a schedule which we followed.

Plan on visiting Borobudur and Prambanan within the same ticket. Combined ticket is cheaper. Single entry to Borobudur is $20 and that of Prambanan is $18 but one ticket applicable to both is $30. Visit Borobudur in the first part of your visit. With this ticket, you can visit Borobudur on one day and Prambanan the next day.

combined ticket

8:00 am                                  leave hotel after a good breakfast (because you will need all the energy                                                  during the day!)
9:00                                       reach Borobudur
9:00 - 11:30 am                    see Borobudur and back at parking lot  (if you don't mandear amongst the                                                shops)
11.30 am - 2:00 pm               proceed to Prambanan, have a quick lunch enroute
2:00 pm                                 reach Prambanan (go around and see as much as you can, take advantage                                                of the train that plies in the temple compound).
4:00 or 4:30                           finish and return to your hotel.

Most of the cars are hired for 8 hours, so if you have that constraint then leave Prambanan by 3:30 pm so you are just in time to reach the hotel.

I now will start writing about Candi Borobudur, Indonesia.


1 comment:

  1. I have been reading your blog for a long time, they are always so informative and a real pleasure to read them
    keep posting

    ReplyDelete

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