Candi Borobudur, Indonesia

I had been to Jakarta earlier but could never get a chance to go to Yogyajakarta to see Borobudur. This time our planning was better and I have come back with vivid memories of the majestic Borobudur.

Since traffic in Yogja can be bad at times, plan the trip on a weekend or leave early to avoid getting delayed. The road to Borobudur is quite good and there it's a 4 road at places. It takes almost an hour from Magelang, where we stayed.

After having bought the tickets we started walking, and all of a sudden you see the majestic monument. The first glimpse leaves you speechless. It takes sometime to imbibe the glory of this beautiful monument.

Time was short as I was bent upon seeing as much as possible, clicking pictures to be reviewed later. The strong sun at times makes it even more difficult to take the pictures. The pictures turn out to be blurred.

Before I start writing and sharing some pictures, there are so many things that intrigued me. Let me share those first.

Some facts about Borobudur:

• First the name Borobudur has been derived from sanskrit. Spliting them, Bara means Vihaar ( a monastery or religious retreat) and Bedhur is above. So a "monastery above"
• The east facing monument is 300 years older than Angkor Wat in Cambodia. It was built between 8th and 9th century AD during the Shailendra dynasty, whereas Angkor Wat was built in the 12th century.

• The name of the person who designed this monument it is unknown as there are no written records available but it is said that the architect of this monument was Gunadharma.
• The Kedu plains where the structure stands was a lake and Borobudur stood out like a lotus in a pond.
• It is made at the confluence of two rivers Ilo and Progo, symbolising the Ganga and Yamuna in India.
• It has been constructed following a mandala.
• Refer to my earlier post Candi Prambanan, Yogyakarta on the etymology of the word Candi.

Plan picture taken from wikipedia

picture courtesy: http://places-city.blogspot.com/2015/03/beautiful-place-in-indonesia-borobudur.html

Looking at the mandala plan and the picture below that would give a very good idea about the way it is built

Temple structure:

•  from the base the temple has six platforms, on top of which are three circular platforms.
• the size of the platforms keep getting smaller with height
• the first set of panels begin from the third level towards the wall
• after this level panels are adorned with the bas-reliefs on both sides. So you pass through corridor with reliefs on either side.
• These platforms are decorated by 2, 672 relief panels and 504 Buddha statues in different mudras (hand positions). Lower terraces have 432 Buddha statues and the upper circular has 72, making a total of 504 statues.
• the topmost circular platforms have rows of concentric bell shaped stupas all around.
• on top of these circular platforms is the main stupa or dome which is 35 meters above ground.
• the elaborate relief panels make the temple one of the outstanding Buddhist construction.
• Located very near to Mount Merapi, Indonesia's most active volacanoe, the construction is believed to have taken 75 years to built.
• There are 108 seated Buddha in alcoves on each side of the monument.

If you are wearing shorts, you shall be given a sarong to wear at the ticket counter. You return that on your way back.

first view of Borobudur

looking up to the top of Borobudur

Buddha statues in each alcove

The statues of lions (Simha) are always placed at the entrance of a Candi, not only in Indonesia but at other places in Nepal, Cambodia and India.

lions guarding the entrance

Makars on either side of entrance

close up of Makar

Makars are mythical beasts which are placed on either side of not only the entrance but also in combination with Kaal. I have written about Kaal and Makar in my earlier post Candi Prambanan, Yogyakarta

side view showing all levels

The base of the stupa is 118 meter square.

In Buddhist philosophy, like Hinduism, the universe is divided into 3 zones or spheres or groups.

Kamadhaatu , parallel in Hinduism being Bhuloka or Bhurloka

Rupadhaatu, Bhuvarloka in Hinduism

Arupdhaatu, corresponding to Swarloka or Swargloka in Hinduism

Kamadhaatu:

This is the lowest level and shows the world of passion and desires where humans are bound by lust It also represents the laws of Karma where one gets the result of their actions. It comprises of all animate or inanimate things such as animals, birds, mountains, rivers etc.
The panels at this , the first, level show the everyday living.

Rupadhaatu:
This sphere represents a transition from wordly concerns. Being still in the bodyily form but away from worldly concerns. Here the panels are on both sides.

Arupdhaatu:
This is the topmost sphere which is a formless world and is the sphere of enlightenment.

It is extremely difficult for a lay person like me to decipher the panels. It needs a thorough understanding and time to analyse each panel.
I tried finding details about few pictures I had taken.

Reliefs from Mahakarmavibhanga representing Kamadhaatu:
Mahakarmavibhanga or Karmavibhanga is the manuscript based on the philosophy of Karma where one has to reap the fruits of one's actions, good or bad.

Number of people treating a sick person. They bring ointments and medicines.

This is one of  Borobudur's favorite panels. Minister Hiru is arriving at his home. The ship's passengers are greeted by men and women.

Royal couple on the right side of the panel are attended by guards, servants. Also seen is an advisor in moustache.

Rupadhaatu:

This level has reliefs from Lalitvistara, which is a text on Gautam Buddha's life. It has 5 terraces.

There were 504 Buddha statues, out of which 300 have been damaged and 43 are missing. It is a pity that most of the Buddha are headless. Since the discovery and renovation, many have been stolen.

In the above panel, Sakhyamuni bathes in the Nairajana river. Gods are sprinkling him with perfume and flowers.

Sakyamuni practiced very severe penance and he was in danger of starving. The spirit of his mother came to stop him but he refused. Next, gods came to stay with him with their magical power so he would not have to eat, but he refused. The above panel shows Sakyamuni making a gesture of refusal to the deities.

Throughout, Buddha statues are seen in different meditative poses in alcoves.

Buddha in Dhyaani mudra under Kaalmukh 

Dhyaani mudra:  

Dhyaan: meditation,  the meditative posture, right palm rests on top of the left palm both facing upwards.

Bhumisparsh mudra

Bhumisparsh mudra: 

Bhumi: earth, sparsh: touch, earth touching posture. The posture when Buddha invited the earth to witness his enlightenment.

Vitarka mudra

As we keep climbing, the Buddha is dhayaani mudra is replaced by one in Vitarka mudra.

Vitarka mudra: 

Vitarka: debate, discussion. This mudra practiced mainly during preachings. 

different types of spouts

With such a massive structure, proper drainage was a priority. There are about 100 spouts with diffrently shaped gargoyles and makars.

a cool sip under a gargoyle

The excellent drainage has helped in stopping flooding of the monument.
Gateways:

As we climb up the terraces, we pass through archways or gates.

a complete gate with Kaalmukh at the top and makars on the sides below

As we ascend, the gates carvings change from parrots to kinnars to Rishis on the side of Kaalmukh. I do not know the reason for this transition.

this gate is decorated with parrots on the side, beneath the Kaalmukh

 climbing up, this gate has Kinnars perched on sides

As we near the top most gallery and are about to enter the circular terrace, that is move from Rupadhaatu to Arupdhaatu, we pass through a double gate between the third and fourth terrace which is called the Gate of Nirvikal (निर्विकल)
Vikal means intense desire, restless and nirvikal means where there is no desire, calm and peace prevails. Once you cross this Gate of Nirvikal, a calmness overpowers you.

In the above picture, which is the last gateway to Arupdhaatu, parrots and kinnars are replaced by Rishis or wise men ( on the sides with beard) showering flowers onto those who have been able to pass through this final gate into the world of immortality which one is entering.

Arupdhaatu:
Our body, after passing the last gate, has left its corporeal form and entered a world of formless.

view of dagobas in three circular levels

This level is represented by 3 circular terraces with 72 bell shaped dagobas or stupas all around the main round stupa. Unlike the lower levels, this level is devoid of any reliefs. Also, a sense of openness prevails on entering this level.

Interesting feature about these dagobas is that the measurement of the base of each stupa is equal to the height of each stupa!

Inside each dagoba is a statue of Buddha, but most of them were damaged. My husband managed to squeeze his phone inside to click a picture and he did a great job :)

Buddha inside a dagoba

Open stupa with Gautam Buddha inside in a Dharmachakra mudra

Dharmachakra mudra: 

Chakra: wheel, so the "wheel of Dharma". This is associated with Buddha's first sermon at Sarnath.

The first two terraces in the circular levels have dagobas with diamond shaped openings, each with a statue of Buddha inside.

Square shaped perforations in the uppermost terrace

In the last terraces just below the main stupa, the perforations are replaced by square ones. The reason for the change in the shape or even the presence of these openings is not clearly understood. But perhaps the diamond shaped ones point to unbalanced life and the square ones symbolise that a balance has been reached but I may not be correct.

Main stupa

This gate with lions who act as guards, makars above on the gate while going down from circular terrace.

unclassified stones

As you are exiting, try to avoid getting into the lanes of shops there. If you want to take any souvenirs then you might get a variety of things on display.

Also, there are people who would literally mob you with aritfacts. As you refuse, they keep reducing the price. That might be the perfect time to buy something but be careful that they actually pack what you want to buy!

Threats to Borobudur:

• Borobudur was abandoned in the 15th century. The reason being possibly the arrival of Islam in the 13th or 14th century. 
• After this a massive volcanic eruption of Mount Merapi deposited a thick layer of ash over the monument and this led to its being totally forgotten.
• It was "discovered" in the early 19th century. The rehabilation undertook cleaning of ash, installing proper drainage system to prevent soil erosion and preventing further crumbling of the monument.
• The steps leading from one level to another already seem to showing signs of abrasion. Infact, one has to be very careful while climbing and more so while coming down. They seem to be usnstable and broken at places.
• The place is frequented by earthquakes and this poses a threat. It might destroy the structure or even shift the earth which will prove disastrous.
•  Mount Merapi, which is an active volcano is also a major threat. The last time the volcano spurt ashes on the monument was in 2010 which not only covered the monument but also destroyed surrounding vegetation.
• another factor, which is affecting not only this monument but all throughout the world, is climate change. The water trapped and the rise in temperature will finally prove fatal.
• It pained me to see people climbing on top of a lion or a stupa to take pictures. This will obviously have a toll soon.

How to get to Borobudur:

• Borobudur is some distance from the city. It might be a good idea to witness the sunrise, provided the sky is clear.
• Book taxi a day before and go early so as to avoid the traffic.
• Hotels usually have an arrangement with some tour agency and they handle everything for you. They do take money in advance.
• 
  
• The staff in the international counter is very courteous. Do avail the free coffee, tea or water which is served. The coffee was hot, so we emptied ours in a bottle and enjoyed sipping it later
• A clean rest room is also there. You might have problem finding one after this.
• Do not skip sun screen, it is a must. The burn is so bad that it remains even after a week.
• Carry a cap and an umbrella.
• Finally, respect the monument.

Can Borobudur and Prambanan be done in a day?

Both Borobudur and Prambanan can be done in a day but if you do it over two days it will be more relaxed. Keep certain things in mind. You need an early start. Just to give an idea I am writing a schedule which we followed.

Plan on visiting Borobudur and Prambanan within the same ticket. Combined ticket is cheaper. Single entry to Borobudur is $20 and that of Prambanan is $18 but one ticket applicable to both is $30. With this ticket, you can visit Borobudur on one day and Prambanan the next day.

combined ticket for both Candis

8:00 am                                  leave hotel after a good breakfast (because you will need all the energy                                                  during the day!)
9:00                                       reach Borobudur
9:00 - 11:30 am                    see Borobudur and back at parking lot  (if you don't mandear amongst the                                                shops)
11.30 am - 2:00 pm               proceed to Prambanan, have a quick lunch enroute
2:00 pm                                 reach Prambanan (go around and see as much as you can, take advantage                                                of the train that plies in the temple compound).
4:00 or 4:30                           finish and return to your hotel.

Most of the cars are hired for 8 hours, so if you have that constraint then leave Prambanan by 3:30 pm so you are just in time to reach the hotel.

Maybe, in my next visit, I might to go some other exotic places which I have missed.