Visiting Angkor complex

When I first visited Angkor complex in 2011, I had no idea that the complex was so massive. To a visitor, it seems that it can be seen in a day. Only once you enter the complex, does one realize its vastness. I thought of first writing about the facts, a little bit of history and then cover the temples. Though, in my enthusiasm, I have already added two posts.

Facts about Angkor complex:

The Angkor complex, along with its many temples, stretches around 250 miles.
The credit of establishing Khmer kingdom goes to Jayavarman II. But, the list of rulers contributing to Angkor Kindom are many. Most of them adding some thing or the other.

Before 800 A.D., there was a struggle for power and Jayavarman II took the reign in his hands.

Background and history:
The temples in the complex were built between 800 to 1300 A.D. Around 27 kings ruled during the period. Some were more important and dominant.
Indravarman III, established the irrigation system and reservoirs called baray. If you plan to visit Banteay Srie, you would see baray on to your right. Later his son, Yasovarman I started construction of temples. The kingdom spread to Bay of Bengal on one side to Vietnam and into China, on the other.

Then came King Suryavarman II, who built Angkor Wat and dedicated the temple to Lord Vishnu. A huge statue of Vishnu still stands today. Vaishavism remained the state religion till Thervada Buddhism took over in 14-15th century. The temple complex also became the state capital of Khmer Kingdom.

The Khmer kingdom fell around 15th century and became redundant till the time it was discovered in the late 80's.

The Angkor complex is a 20 minute drive from Siem Reap, the city near the Angkor complex. Since there is no place to stay at Angkor, you have to stay at Siem Reap which is very tourist friendly. Here are plenty of places to eat, both reasonable and expensive. Night market attracts a lot of tourists. Don't miss the massage after you have walked all day at Angkor complex. Fish massage is equally joyful.

The above plan gives an insight about the size of Angkor complex

Entrance ticket:
You need to get a photo pass made at the entrance and enter the complex using this. There is a double checking for passes. You are free to move out of the complex and come back again provided you retain your ticket. The ticket also becomes your souvenir with a picture of you on it!

A one-day ticket costs $20 and covers all the temples in the complex. A two day pass is $40, a three day is also $40 and a seven day pass is $60 but you have to use it on seven consecutive days.
Guide services are available in all major languages.

After one more check that the ticket has been bought, your vehicle enters the Angkor conservation area. Look to your sides, monkeys and heavy growth of trees can be seen. Soon you start seeing small temples, lots under renovation.

There are so many temples that covering them all is only possible if you have an ardent interest in archaelogy and have a lot of time. Otherwise, visiting few major temples gives an idea about the vastness of this place.

Before you venture, decide which temples you would be visiting. I can say that in my opinion, if you are very short of time you must see the three major sites-- Angkor wat, Tha Prom, Bayon. This is usually the tour guides take you to. It would also be a good idea to squeeze in Banteay Srie in your plan, and if you have time combine Kabal Spean with it. That would give you a perspective of the architecture over a period of years.


Opening hours:
The ticket office opens early at 5:00 AM. Angkor Wat and most of the temples open at that hour. If you want to see the sunrise, go early and you get a beautiful view provided there are no clouds. Angkor Wat closes at 6:00 PM after the sun sets.
Banteay Srie closes at 5:00 PM and Kbal Spean at 3:00 PM

Kep, the town for sea food

Kep, a small French colonial place is one of the ideal weekend get away in Cambodia. Situated in the Gulf of Thailand, the place is peaceful and is very welcome after the erratic traffic at Phnom Penh.

The place offers a wide choice for accomodation and is easily available. We decided to take a family room which had an open area with a comfortable couch and chairs outside our rooms.

In a corner was a seating place with pillows and mosquito netting.

shell light shade!

The verandah provided a beautiful view and also of the Gulf of Thailand.

We arrive for our breakfast here.

Rabbit island (Koh Tonsay):
Make a day trip to rabbit island. For this, you go to the ferry terminal.You can hire a shared motorboat or can hire a separate one. The charges are $25 per boat. They shall ask you for the time of return. Having done this you get into the boat and start your joourney. Depending on the weather, the water can be very rough. It was when we went and I could not even take any pictures.

Once at the island, the boatman might ask you for the time of return for confirmation. Take a narrow winding path to the other side of island. That is where the main activity is.

enjoying a siesta

Once there, you are greeted by white sand beach and trees under which hang hammocks. Grab a hammock and laze around. There are small eateries, order a cool drink or fresh coconut water. You get cocktails and beer at very reasonable prices.

Once back in town, try experimenting sea food by the wharf. There are plenty of restaurants serving fresh sea food.

sauteed crabs

curried prawns

These prawns have an entirely different taste. I have yet to come across a place like this in Phnom Penh which serves such tasty sea food. Added to sea food are the fresh Kampot peppercorns which lend a very typical flavor to the dish.

cockles

They were not that good and my children decided to leave half of them behind.

Returning back towards Phnom Penh, make a detour and visit a pepper farm. Most of them welcome visitors and show them around the farm.

Visit to pepper farm:
Kampot is famous for its pepper which is widely used in French cuisine. It almost vanished after Khmer Rouge. The plantations are now reviving.

pepper climbers

black, red and white peppercorns left to dry

All these peppercorns come from the same plant. First harvest is the white, they ripen a little bit and produce red and last of the crop are black peppercorns.

rambutans waiting to ripen

Phnom Chngok:

Further ahead towards Kampot a diversion towards an off beaten track leads to a network of caves. As soon as a vehicle nears the caves, children come running to be a guide for you. They are wonderful guides with torches in hand lead you to dark, narrow caves infested with mosquitoes.

a temple at entrance

The interconnecting caves, I was told was a safe haven during the Khmer Rouge days for their cadres.

entering one the caves

I was not brave enough to venture deep into any of the caves and felt happy on coming out.

The limestone hillock has subterranean water. I do not know how much is true but we were told by our child guide that earlier they could go inside but now they have snakes in water.

 entering foot of hills with stalactites of calcium carbonate deposits

Statue of Buddha under the caves

Passing through the winding path and manoeuvring through big stones I make my way outside back into the "civilization"! Or I would say to my mundane traffic packed life.

Pharping, Nepal

Pharping, a small town is just around 18 kms from Kathmandu but the traffic may take you at least one and half hour. The road is not that good either and driving up the mountain can lessen your speed.
I had heard a lot about Dakshinkaali, a goddess Kali temple and the famous monastery where you can see handprints of Guru Padmasambhava. He meditated and in the small cave and achieved salvation.

Dakshinkaali:
Nepal is flooded with temples of great sanctity. One of the temples is Dakshinkaali. Kaali. Kaali, who is the form of goddess in its anger form. According to mythology, the goddess was in a world destroying spree and where ever she put her foot that place destroyed. Shiva was approached by all beings to stop this rampage of his consort. Shiva knew that nothing could stop this force of the goddess. He lay in the path and goddess accidentally put her foot on his chest. Shiva could not be destroyed and this made the goddess look down and and when she saw, her husband beneath her foot, deep guilt and shame engulfed her. In regret and shame, her tongue came out.
When Kaali puts her right foot forward, then it is Dakshinkaali.

view of temple from above

The temple is especially busy on Saturdays and Tuesdays and only female animals as goat, chicken are sacrificed on that day.

the deity is under the red canopy on right side

temple deity under the red canopy

Ganga is the most sacred river in Hinduism. Two rivulets encircle the temple. One being Udhaarvati (उद्धारवती ), one who liberates.

The other being Purnavati Ganga(पूर्णवती गंगा), one who fulfills.

image of the Goddess

Drolma Lakhaang Monastery:
A monastery worth visiting is Drolma Lakhaang. Going back to Kathmandu as you near the bus stop, a road on the side takes you to

Drolma Lakhang

By the side of the monastery, climb up the series of steps. This takes you to the Guru Padmasambhava's cave.

keep climbing, there is a well made track

prayer flags and tsha-tsha in between

There are steps going ahead. If you plan on installing prayer flags then go further or else turn inside the gate.

tsha-tsha placed in places

Tsha-tsha  have the same purpose as chachpa in Bhutan. See the blog post Some beliefs and rituals in Bhutan

Tsha-tsha placed in corners

Guru Padmasambhava's cave

Guru Padmasambhava meditated in this cave to attain enlightenment. It is said that the cave was inhahibited by demons but the Guru's supernatural powers made them run away. Hence it is also called the asura gupha (असुर गुफा ) asura : demon and gupha: a cave.

handprint of Guru Rinpoche

A handprint has been left behind by the Guru.

It is customary to put your hand on the hand print to seek the Guru's blessings.

feet of Guru Padmasambhava

On the side, you can see people lighting butter lamps.

view from above

Trace your way back and visit the Monastery. Being pressed for time for having to return to Kathmandu, I missed seeing it from inside.

Monasteries and temples in and around Swayambhunatha

I come back home with a bounty of knowledge after I have visited any place. Learning never ceases to disinterest me and I realize everytime that I hardly know anything.
When I started writing my last post on Swayambhunatha, never did I know that it would become an unending post! There was so much to write. Every picture had so much I could write about. This post is in continuation to the last one where I just mentioned the stupa.

Apart from the main stupa, there are many monasteries and temples around the stupa. Instead of segregating them into temples and monasteries, I thought I shall proceed in the order they in which they are located. As I had already mentioned that there is a perfect fusion of Buddhism and Hinduism in Nepal so, for me to write about them separately would not be doing justice to either faith.

In addition to two major monasteries, there are small temples also. Its very easy not to notice them in front of the gigantic stupa. Once you start descending from the mount, you see another temple, Shantipur. 

Karma Raja Maha Vihar:

This is a Tibetan monastery following Kagyu tradition, one of the important Tibetan Buddhist schools, on the right side of the entrance. Devotees light yak butter lamps and the image of Sakhyamuni Buddha is stunning.

Monastery

Beautiful Sakhyamuni Buddha statue inside the Monastery

Naagpur ( नागपुर ):

Just outside the monastery, on the right is Naagpur.

Naag, is a hooded serpent. Naagpur, thus is a small pond in which there are idols of two serpents under water. These serpents are worshipped to appease other serpents in the valley.

Vasupur ( वसुपुर ):

On the left side of the main entrance is this temple which is dedicated to Devi Vasudhara or Vasundhara.

Vasupur

Goddess Vasudhara

Vasudhara, who is the consort of Kuber (the God of wealth) is  goddess of wealth and prosperity. She is the Buddhist counterpart of Lakshmi, the Hindu goddess of wealth and is worshipped mianly by the Newari community in Nepal.

a magnified view of goddess

I enlarged a portion of the goddess' photo.  The goddess holds different things in her six arms.

In the first arm on the right, goddess holds a pot of water signifying abundance of wealth. In the second arm, she holds a sheaf of grass signifying abundant harvest and is also a symbol of fertility, and the third one has a book, Prajanaparamita Sutra or the book of wisdom.

In the first left hand, the goddess is in varad mudra which is known as the charity mudra symbolizing divine blessings, second arm has jewels, a symbol of wealth,  and third has prayer beads paying homage to Buddha.

The goddess sits in an easy posture on top of a lotus with one foot towards her body and the other resting on the lotus. Since, she is the goddess of wealth and prosperity, she wears extensive jewelery.

plenty of Chaityas, White stupa and Dongak Chhlyoling Monastery (at the back)

Dongak Chhyoling Monastery:

This again is a Tibetan Monastery. Shoes need to be taken off before entering the main hall.

main hall of the monastery

woman lighting butter lamps

It is a very common practice to see people lighting butter lamps in monasteries.This has multifold purposes.

Lighting lamps gives merit to a devotee. 

It is symbolic of shedding away darkness of life leading one to enlightenment.

It is also lighted in the memory of a deceased person so that his passage after death is easy. 

It is lighted for someone who is sick so that the suffering is less and he or she may get well soon.

The lamps are also lighted for the long and good life on a person's birthday.

A black chaitya over a yoni- a perfect example of intermingling of Buddhisma and Hinduism, just 

outside the Monastery.

Ajima temple (अजिमा):

Ajima or Harati Devi is the goddess for children. She is also known as Sheetla Devi. She wards off small pox and other children diseases.

a monk pays respect at temple

Photography of the deity is strictly prohibited so I couldn't take a picture. The deity is revered both by Hindus and the Buddhists.

The original one was destroyed by King Bahadur Shah. It is said that his wife contacted small pox which disfigured her. In depression, she ended her life. The King got very angry and destroyed the temple deity. The present idol of goddess is said to be relatively new.

snow lion guarding the temple

a prayer ceremony in progress

worship of mother on Mother's Day

The Mother and Father's Day is different from the ones celebrated in other parts of the world. The date follows a lunar calendar and comes some time in April and Father's day in August. I have mentioned about father's day in my earlier post Nepal.

Behind Ajima temple is a collection of Chaityas in Northwest corner

Anantpur tower, Swayambhunatha stupa, Harati Devi temple ( two tiered pagoda style) and collection collection of Chaityas.

Swayambhunatha stupa, Ajima temple (with pagoda style roof) and Chaityas

This is a 7th century Dipankar Buddha in Northwest part of the temple. A statue of Hanuman under an umbrella sits beside Buddha.

Feeding pigeons

Feeding birds is considered an activity by which one gains merits and can be seen in all stupas.

 Buddha in Abhaya mudra

Abhay or 'no fear'. This mudra or gesture of fearlessness symbolizes peace, protection and harmony.

Agnipur (अग्निपुर ):
A rather neglected temple, Agnipur ( Agni , fire) definitely means the temple of fire.

This temple is of the God of Fire. It is situated in the North-west side of the stupa.

shops lineed up all around the stupa

There are plenty of shops to lure the tourists. It for sure makes you stop to look at the array of jewellery, nepali music cds, strings of beads, conches, masks, prayer bells etc.

Shantipur temple (शान्तिपुर):

Shantipur which actually means the place of peace is a small temple but it is named after a tantric yogi by the name of Shantikar. There is said to be a locked secret door which no one dares to enter. It is also said that the tantric is still alive and meditating.

sign showing way to temple

the temple

The temple was locked so I had to wriggle my camera in between the grid to take pictures.

inside the temple

fresco on wall

The tantric has mystical powers and when Kathmandu valley faces drought, the ruling King must enter the chamber,  meet Shantikar. Only after that is he blessed, the valley gets rain. This is shown in the fresco on walls. 

I trace my way out of the temple and move towards the exit / entrance on the south side where the car park is.

Plenty of prayer flags can be seen fluttering from above

I had in detail mentioned about prayer flags in my post on Bhutan, Some beliefs and rituals in Bhutan where they are called lungdhar. Here in Nepal they are called lungta. Their significance and purpose is the same.

It is considered to bring good fortune to tie prayer flags.

Since monkeys occupy a special place in this temple, on the right side is a swimming pool solely for monkeys!

time for a splash

meeting place !

World Peace Pond

This pond has a statue of Lord Buddha standing on a lotus. It is said that if a person's coin lands on Buddha's feet, good luck comes to him. You see lots of people aiming for Buddha feet and making a wish.

View from the car parking entrance

the other entrance, ticket counter on left side of picture

Bijeshwari ( बिजेश्वरी ):

On way back to Kathmandu from Swayambhunatha, we stopped at this temple. Bijeshwari is a beautiful small temple. Not many tourists visit it.

entrance to temple guarded by snow lions on either side

temple courtyard

view of courtyard from other side

temple, not the main deity

When you enter this temple, there is a door which leads to the main deity. Photography is not permitted there.

the main deity is behind the golden mesh window

Notice the beautiful lattice work.

another goddess temple, it was closed

torana over the temple

That finished my incredible trip to Swayambhunatha and Bijeshwari temples.