Sunday, June 5, 2016

Pharping, Nepal

Pharping, a small town is just around 18 kms from Kathmandu but the traffic may take you at least one and half hour. The road is not that good either and driving up the mountain can lessen your speed.
I had heard a lot about Dakshinkaali, a goddess Kali temple and the famous monastery where you can see handprints of Guru Padmasambhava. He meditated and in the small cave and achieved salvation.

Dakshinkaali:
Nepal is flooded with temples of great sanctity. One of the temples is Dakshinkaali. Kaali. Kaali, who is the form of goddess in its anger form. According to mythology, the goddess was in a world destroying spree and where ever she put her foot that place destroyed. Shiva was approached by all beings to stop this rampage of his consort. Shiva knew that nothing could stop this force of the goddess. He lay in the path and goddess accidentally put her foot on his chest. Shiva could not be destroyed and this made the goddess look down and and when she saw, her husband beneath her foot, deep guilt and shame engulfed her. In regret and shame, her tongue came out.
When Kaali puts her right foot forward, then it is Dakshinkaali.

view of temple from above

The temple is especially busy on Saturdays and Tuesdays and only female animals as goat, chicken are sacrificed on that day.

the deity is under the red canopy on right side

temple deity under the red canopy
Ganga is the most sacred river in Hinduism. Two rivulets encircle the temple. One being Udhaarvati (उद्धारवती ), one who liberates.


The other being Purnavati Ganga(पूर्णवती गंगा), one who fulfills.

image of the Goddess

Drolma Lakhaang Monastery:
A monastery worth visiting is Drolma Lakhaang. Going back to Kathmandu as you near the bus stop, a road on the side takes you to


Drolma Lakhang


By the side of the monastery, climb up the series of steps. This takes you to the Guru Padmasambhava's cave.

keep climbing, there is a well made track

prayer flags and tsha-tsha in between

There are steps going ahead. If you plan on installing prayer flags then go further or else turn inside the gate.

tsha-tsha placed in places

Tsha-tsha  have the same purpose as chachpa in Bhutan. See the blog post Some beliefs and rituals in Bhutan

Tsha-tsha placed in corners

Guru Padmasambhava's cave

Guru Padmasambhava meditated in this cave to attain enlightenment. It is said that the cave was inhahibited by demons but the Guru's supernatural powers made them run away. Hence it is also called the asura gupha (असुर गुफा ) asura : demon and gupha: a cave.

handprint of Guru Rinpoche
A handprint has been left behind by the Guru.


It is customary to put your hand on the hand print to seek the Guru's blessings.

feet of Guru Padmasambhava
On the side, you can see people lighting butter lamps.

view from above

Trace your way back and visit the Monastery. Being pressed for time for having to return to Kathmandu, I missed seeing it from inside.


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