Monday, June 13, 2016

Wat Sri Suphan, Chiang Mai

A wat which is easily missed is Wat Sri Suphon amidst the lanes of silver village off Wua lai road in Chiang Mai. That is one reason why it does not get too many tourists. Built in 1500 by Phaya Mueang Kaeo of Mengrai dynasty, very little remains of the original strucure. It has been renovated many a times during the last 500 years. It was consecrated in 1509 and holy relics of Buddha were enshrined here.

The architecture of this place is a combination of Wua lai style and Rattanakosin.
Wua Lai:
The Shan ( Tai Yai) artisans perfecting in silverwork migrated from Thai-Myanmar border and settled in Chiang Mai as that was a flourishing business center at that time. They named it Wua Lai in name of the place in Myanmar from where they came. Soon a new style emerged with the combination of Lanna and the Shan designs. The street of Wua Lai still has many silversmiths making beautiful pieces of handicraft. The artists use silver for making holy images.

Rattanakosin:
Then by 19th century the Burmese immingrants brought their own style - Rattanakosin, commonly known as the Bangkok style. This style dominated the architecture of temples built later.

As you enter nothing special meets your eye. Looking to the left is the main attraction of this place--- Silver Ubosoth!

Points of interest:
  • entry free
  • take time to appreciate the panels outside ubosoth
  • see silver workshop in progress
  • see inside of ubosoth
Viharn:
the viharn at Sri Suphan
This viharan was built 200 years ago during the reign of Pra Chao Kaviroros.
Viharn main entrance guarded by naga and dwarpala
viharn side entrance guarded by lions and Mom
I have already mentioned about MOM in my earlier post in Wat Phra That Doi Suthep .
sign board
Not to be missed and cannot go unnoticed is the silver ubosoth. Walk your way through the path.
A huge portrait of the King of Thailand, Bhumibol Adulyadejis seen next to ubosoth. The renovation started in 2004. Then in 2007 to commemorate the 80th birthday of King Bhumibol Adulyadej, the temple committee decided to renovate it further.  It was decided that the ubosoth be covered with silver and its alloys.  Silver being reserved for making only holy images.
Ganesha sits by the side of ubosoth.  Below on each side sit a golden and one silver mouse with modak in their hands. Modak  is Ganesh's favorite sweet and is offered to him by his devotees.
Another Ganesha on the right side
Buddha in bhoomisparsh mudra sits near the entrance of ubosoth
Renovation is still continuing. There was paint work going at the entrance when I visited this place in March 2016.
Women are not permitted inside the ubosoth :(
roof of ubosoth
intricately hand crafted chofah
Chofah or chofa are decorative extensions on the roof side of a wat or palace. They are supposed to represent the mythical bird Garuda, the mount of Hindu god Vishnu and can be seen in South Asian countries as Cambodia, Laos, Myanmar and Thailand.
Kinnaras welcoming at the entrance of ubosoth
Kinnar(male) and Kinnari (female) as are mythical celestial beings who have face of a human being and body of a bird. Mostly adorning the entrance to a temple, these Kinnars keep a watch on the well being of devotees.
Main deity in ubosoth which is 500 years old, is Phra Putta Pathiharn Ming Kwan Pra Mueang Kaew Nopburi Sri Chiang Mai.
It was earlier called Phra Chao Jed Tue.
Since I could not go inside the ubosoth, my husband took some pictures for me.
ornately crafted work
walls of ubosoth
a temple guardian
panels adorning the outside of ubosoth
bowls for coins to gain merits
below the bowls animals in the Chinese calendar can be seen
another intricately made panel on the other side wall

national emblem of Thailand, Phra Khrut Pha (in red and green)

On the occasion of King's 60 year rule, the Royal emblem of Thailand (Garuda) was brought and placed on the left side of ubosoth very close to viharn and near to the chedi.

The big one shows Garuda holding two serpents in two hands and head under his talons.


Chedi being renovated


There is also a workshop where students learn and continue the ancient art of silver work with the help of Lanna School of Ancient Arts. This is helping in keeping the tradition of silversmiths alive.

collapsed chedi
relics found inside
The chedi which was taller than a three-storey building began leaning to one side. Soon cracks appeared at the base of the structure. The place had heavy rains and on September 29, 2022, the chedi collapsed.
Many Buddha statues made from glass and carved stone were found in the rubble. Other antiques were also found.



3 comments:

  1. Its great that you could show the art work,its really intricate.

    ReplyDelete
  2. What a different view from the white male bloggers normal (or biased) perspective of thailand. Thanks

    ReplyDelete
  3. Well thats a healthy perspective f r om the normal nonsense written by some bloggers about my country

    ReplyDelete

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