Friday, May 23, 2014

Some beliefs and rituals in Bhutan

Along with being a beautiful country, Bhutan has continued to preserve its culture and rituals over a period of many years. It also makes a conscious effort to maintain it.
Combining this post with the one on the places I saw in Bhutan would not have done justice to the cuturally rich country.
It is not easy to get understand the culture or rituals of a place in such a short time. I have written what I understood from talking to people.

Dilbu dorje:

dilbu with dorje

In Buddhist rituals, both the dilbu or tilbu (prayer bell or ghanta in devnagari) and dorje ( vajra) are used together.
The dorje symbolises thunderbolt or lightening and represents enlightenment and truth.
The bell is used to invoke the presence of Buddha and the deities. It also symbolizes compassion and wisdom.
Together they form the symbol of purity which no force can destroy during the ritual prayer. Notice the bell in picture carefully and you see dorjis all around near the rim. 
I found an interesting feature in dilbu. If you rub its rim in a clockwise manner with a wooden handle, it starts vibrating to produce a resonating sound like a singing bowl !

Prayer wheel:
Very synonymous to any Buddhistic country is the prayer wheel. This along with prayer beads help in concentrating during meditation. A prayer wheel is a cylindrical oblong structure made of metal, stone or wood. They are either hand held like the picture below or are giant prayer wheels. Both serve the same purpose as they have a mantra inscribed ( Aum Mani Padme Hum). So, the more one turns the wheel, the more merits one accumulates. It should always be turned in a clockwise direction as the mantra is written in that direction and that is also the direction of the movement of sun across the sky.

hand held prayer wheel
Prayer wheel and prayer beads in hand 
giant prayer wheels
Sometimes, bells are attached to a wheel, so everytime the wheel spins, the bell rings.
In fact, I saw solar powered prayer wheels too. They are usually put on the dashboard of car.

solar powered prayer wheel 

Prayer flags:
These form a very important ritual in Bhutan and gives the country an ethereal character. One sees them everywhere, outside homes, on top of hills, bridges. They are hoisted to bring happiness, prosperity, long life not only to the planter but also to everyone around. It also helps in gaining merits for this and next birth.


Prayer flags on a hill 
I noticed different types of prayer flags. One running in horizontal direction and the other planted on a pole vertically. The horizontal flags or lungdhar are a series of rectangular pieces of cloth inscribed with auspicious mantra, symbols strung together at the top to a string.

            mantra incription                             so many flags!!                              getting ready to tie the flag

The flag has 5 colors representing Panchmahabhoot or the 5 elements from which the earth is made. It is strung in the same order of:
 blue representing space, white representing air, red which denotes fire, green standing for water and yellow meaning the earth.

There are certain conditions to this ritual :

  • It is mandatory for the day to be auspicious, not all days are good. The good days are even forecasted by local newspaper. If, the day tis not auspicious then, the purpose is defeated.
  • It needs to be blessed by a Lama.
  • It should be hung high, the reason being that the strong winds carry the good vibrations across and takes away all the sufferings and misfortunes with it.
  • They are also hung at the beginning of a long journey or starting a new venture or even by students for getting good grades in examinations.

We got a very good opportunity to partake in this ceremony. After the flag has been tied to a suitable place, Lama blesses the people wishing for the fulfilment of purpose. He sprinkles some rice symbolising flowers from sky.


Because of the strong wind, I had a hard time taking picture of one part of the flag. Each flag has certain symbols on it.
Garuda eating a snake ( top left corner) means to frighten all evils
Dragon (top right corner ) removing all dangers which fall from sky as lightening.
Tiger ( below left corner ) success in life without any hurdles or obstacles.
Lion (below right corner) to be ahead in each step of life.

Apart from these symbols, Buddha and a chorten can be seen. A flying horse in the center symbolizes achievement of all good work. The flags represent wishes made to God for fulfillment.

There are vertical flags also called darchor. Some are the same colors as lungdhar. They serve the same purpose as the lungdhar.


white flags on top of a hill
Then, there are manidhar or gurudhar prayer flags which are erected in memory of the deceased and help in smooth transition between heaven or next birth. If, possible 108 manidhars should be erected. These have inscriptions to Avalokiteshwar. The number 108 is concerned lucky by Buddhists. The reason being that Buddha attained enlightenment after 108 incarnations.

As with all things associated with prayers and beliefs, these flags need to be respected. They should not be placed on the ground or torn. They should not be removed once erected.

Chachapaa:

Prayer flags and chachapaas
Once, outside the takin reserve, we went up the road towards Bhutan Broadcasting Tower. On the way, we saw plenty of chachpaa in nooks, corners, everywhere.

Chachapaa placed along the mountain wall 
Chachapaa are usually made of clay and have a grain of rice, wheat and a statue of Buddha inside. These sealed structures are blessed by Lama and put in a place from its being under anyone's feet.
They are put for the prosperity and also for recovery of an ailing member in a family.

Torma:
I happened to see these on a roadside while walking one day. On asking, I was told that these are called tormas which are made either of clay or dough. A butter lamp is also put along with many things.

Torma on a roadside
close-up of torma
Tormas are put in many places and for various reasons. It might be put to remove any ill luck on a person or a family. It is also put to free a possessed person from di (male) or deem (female). An effigy made out of dough or a picture is put on torma so that di or deem gets tricked into believing that this is the person. The spirit or di or deem follows the effigy leaving the real person!
The tormas are then either put on a roadside or put in river so that the flow carries it away. The direction they face are specific for the purpose they have been made for.
This also forms a part of annual pooja, where 8-10 Lamas bless the household to remove any evil eye on the family.

Blessings by Lama:
Every guest who checks-in at the hotel is blessed by Lama so that their stay is pleasant and fruitful.




Doma and Paney:


Fresh paney leaves and doma                                                                    sold this way 

Doma is the areca nut (supari) and paney is betel leaf (paan).
This is loved by people here and they love to chew it. Unlike, in India where catechu ( katha) and generally dry areca nut is added, here only slaked lime (chuna) and fresh areca nuts are added.

I read a very interesting article on flight which mentioned that doma paney was introduced by Guru Rinpoche as a substitute for cannibalism that was prevalent during that time. Slaked lime and areca nuts imparts a red color to sputum and that gave an illusion of blood.
Apart from chewing, this also forms an important thing during prayer ceremonies.

So much more exist in Bhutan, but I witnessed just few of these things.
Hope in my next visit, I am able to understand more of Bhutan.

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