Durbar square continued, Basantpur

As I enter the Hanuman Dhoka area complex, another group of temples welcome me.

Hanuman Dhoka:
This is one of the most important section in durbar square. It was originally the royal home for the ruling kings.

The name comes from the statue of Hanumaan which is placed on the left side of the entrance. Hanuman is said to be an ardent devotee of Lord Rama. Dhoka means a gate in Newar. The statue was put to protect the palace.

The statue is made of stone and is covered in red clothes with face which is painted red. A golden umbrella is placed over the statue.

The main entrance to the golden gates is protected by two stone snow lions on either side.

Observe closely and you see Goddess Parvati or Shakti sitting on a lioness on the left side and Shiv sits on a lion on the left side.

Above the golden gate, some interesting figures can be seen.  On to the left side can be seen Lord Krishna with his two consorts Rukmani and Satyabhama. According to some, they are the gopis or the milk girls. In the centre, is seen Krishna in his tantric avatar. On the extreme right, are said to be Pratap Malla and his wife.

Degutaleju temple:
There are two Taleju temples here. I shall be writing about the bigger one later on. Degutaleju temple houses Mallas personal goddess Taleju. It was built by Shiv Singh Malla and is a part of the palace.

Devi Taleju temple

Pratap Malla column

 Pratap Malla can be seen with folded hands facing the three tiered Degutaleju temple.

I have mentioned Taleju bell in my earlier posts on Patan and Bhaktapur also. Here also the big bell is rung only at the time of worship at Degutaleju temple.

Setu Bhairav:
Adjacent to Degutaleju temple is the temple of Setu (white) Bhairav.  Infact, it is not white but golden. When you look at the picture below, you would see an area covered by a wooden mesh. This is the temple of Setu Bhairav. It remains closed behind a wooden lattice and is open to public only during the Indra Jatra festival in September.

The wooden grid behind which is the mask of Setu Bhairav.

I saw the mask at one shop and liked it very much.

Jaganath temple:
Just in front of Hanuman Dhoka is the temple of Jaganath or Krishna. The two tiered temple was initially a Vishnu temple but was dedicated as a Krishna temple later on.

The intricate wooden carving on the struts is a marvel.

On observing carefully, you see erotic carvings in those struts which are very subtly incorporated and are easily ignored.

Kaal Bhairav:
Kaal Bhairav (काल भैरव ) is black in color and one cannot miss noticing it. Bhairav is the fierce manifestation of Shiv. Bhairav temples can be ubiquitously seen in Nepal as he is considered as the protector.

The 12 foot high black stone relic is said to be sculpted in the 5th or 6th century. King Pratap Malla positioned it in durbar square after it was found in a paddy field. It is said one has to speak only truth here. If, anyone defies, he starts bleeding and dies.

Taleju Bhawani temple:
Taleju Bhawani was originally the revered goddess of South India but soon became the royal goddess of Malla dyansty. She is goddess Durga who is refered as Taleju in Newar. As you already know from my earlier posts, Taleju Bhawani is the most powerful goddess having ten arms and four heads.
The temple is situated in Trishul Chowk in Durbar Square and was built by King Mahendra Malla.

The entrance is guarded by two lions so the gate is called Simha Dhoka (सिंह ढोका ) or the lion gate.

On the sides of gate, you see beautiful and elaborate art work.
It was the first temple to be built in Durbar square with more than two tiers. The temple remains closed the whole year. The ninth day of the dasain or dussehra festival is called navmi and that is the only day the temple opens. Huge crowds gather then to pay respect to the goddess.

Kakeshwar temple:
This temple was built in 1681 but got badly damaged in 1934 earthquake. One can see a marked difference in the architecture of this temple which does not look old.

The base looks old however the pinnacle does not lookas if it is built in the Newar style. The temple is dedicated to a goddess.  Not much is known about this temple.

Kotilingeshwar:
This temple with a dome at top is dedicated to Lord Shiva.

Nandi, Lord Shiv's mount sits outside facing the temple.

Mahavishnu temple:
This temple is situated just adjacent to Kotilingeshwar temple.

The temple was badly damaged during the earthquake.

Mahendreshwar temple:
Just outside the Durbar square entering the Indra Chowk, one sees this temple.

The temple was built by Mahendra Malla and is dedicated to Lord Shiva.

Akaash Bhairav:
This temple in Indra Chowk is one of the important temples in Kathmandu.

He is known as the "god of sky". His face is turned towards the sky. He is taken out on a procession during the Indra Jatra festival and at that time, Kumari, the living goddess blesses him.

Jan Bahal or Setu Macchendranath temple :
Setu or white Macchendranath is worshipped by Hindus of Nepal as the god of rain and by the Buddists as Avalokiteshwar.

Macchendranath

This gilded archway over the door of main temple

Prayer wheels go around the outer edge of temple.

Very intricate gilded work can be seen on walls all around.

In March-April, before the arrival of rains, Seto Macchendranath's idol is taken out in a procession. This festival celebrates to please the god of rain. Macchendranath as you know is considered as the god of rain in Nepal.
Recent earthquake in April 2015, damaged its outer wall and entrance.

as it stands now in 2017

Annapoorna temple:
Annapoorna (अन्न्पूर्णा), Anna means food and poorna is fulfilling. So, this is food giving goddess.

Surrounded by busy shops in Ason, this temple attracts many devotees.

The idol is a silver vessel symbolising plenty of food in it.

I plan to visit Pashupatinath and Buddhaneelkanth tomorrow. I am sure they are going to fascinate me even more. Pashupatinath does not permit any pictures to be taken inside the complex. I shall post some pictures from outside.