Kbal Spean, Siem Reap, Cambodia

On top of Kulen mountains, some distance away from Banteay Srie is Kbal Spean, Kbal taken from the word Kapaal meaning head in Sanskrit and Spean means a bridge so, it means "head bridge".

The fairly tough climb, finding your way through big boulders for a non atheletic climber like me, and some easy walk, takes you to this wonderful place. But, once you reach the top, the first word which comes out from your mouth is Wow!

The series of spectacularly carved Shivlinga on sandstone makes you wonder. How was it possible to carve such a thing under water? The waters of river Kbal Spean flow over these formations.
Said to be built around the 11th and 12th century during the reign of King Udayadityavarman II, it seems a wonder that on top of Phnom Kulen something like this exists. Phnom means a hill in Khmer and Kulen is a mountain range.

There are Sahasralingas (1000 lingas)in India in Orissa and Hampi in Karnataka. But, thousands of Shivlingas on rocks and river bed can be seen when the water recedes on river Shalmala near Sirsi in the Uttara Kannada region in the state of Karnataka in India. They were built by the King of Sirsi, Sadashiva Raya in 1678-1718.

 picture courtesy: daily.bhaskar.com

 picture courtesy: ramanan50.wordpress.com

Hope as you keep reading the following post, you shall see the similarity between the two places and also understand how Hinduism was transported to far off places in South-east Asia.

A tough exercise for me!

Passing through thick growth on either side

walk and walk!

strange looking crawlies on a tree!

Etched Shivalings on the river bed

The area has been cordoned off to protect the carvings which have, over a period weathered or vandalized. The rope which you see in the above picture is over a natural bridge under which the water runs below dropping into a water fall.

A close up of reclining Vishnu on Anant-Shesha, King of  Nagas

enlarged portion, Goddess Lakshmi near his feet

The above etching on the rock shows Lord Vishnu in a reclining position in the eternal ocean or the ananta saagar. Sheshnaag or  Anant- Shesha or Anantnaag's head forms an umbrella over his head.  His feet are on the lap of a woman (face has apparently broken) who should be no other than Goddess Lakshmi, the consort of Lord Vishnu. She is flanked by lotus on either side.

On top of Vishnu is Brahma, the creator who is connected by a cord to Vishnu's navel. On extreme right, again seems to be Brahma sitting on a lotus.

Another carving of Vishnu

the carving seen from another angle

Keep on looking everywhere and you see some etching on a rock.

Water flowing over Shivlingas

There are 1000 Shivlingas etched in this area. The water, after flowing over them, is said to become sanctified.

Shiv-Parvati on Nandi

I took a closer look at the above picture, the etchings have no doubt corroded but it is clearly shows Shiv and Parvati on Nandi, the mount of Lord Shiv. On the side seems like Lord Rama with a bow and Sita, his consort by his side.

From the bridge- Shiva lingas and Yoni

After crossing the bridge, you descend to the lower level where the water falls. From the bridge under the clear waters is visible the Yoni with Shivlingas.

a picture of my family

From the waterfall you take the winding path and trace your way back downhill.

It is amazing to think that this was carved hundreds of years ago on a hill top. Imagine the effort and dedication of the people who did all this wonderful work.