Boudhnatha Stupa, Nepal

In my earlier posts on Nepal, I have written about Hindu temples. Nepal has as many Bouddh temples as the Hindu ones. Yes, Buddhism came much later but its impact has been significant.

There is a complete and harmonious intermixing of the two religions in Nepal.

I visited two big temples in and near Kathmandu. One was Boudhanatha and the other Swambhunatha. Both are UNESCO heritage sites.

At the time of writing this post never in my weirdest thoughts did I think that soon I would be posting pictures of the same monument, damaged to a great extent.

Boudhnatha and Swayambhunatha stupas, which I am going to write about, are of Kadampa style. This style differs from Kalachakra (wheel of life) style. Let me briefly shed some light on the main features of Kadampa style stupa. In this style:

• The base which is usually square represents the earth or universe
• The dome represents water
• On top of dome is a square area called harmika which forms a fence around the spire. Here, the spire is represented by the thirteen steps or bhumis. So, harmika sort of forms a fence around the tree of enlightenment.
• The harmika has a pair of eyes, a nose and also a third eye.
• On top of harmika are placed 13- steps or bhumis which are symbols of fire.
• On top of bhumis is an umbrella which is a representative of Nirvana or enlightenment
• Then topmost is the pinnacle, which represents space.

Boudhnatha (बौद्धनाथ):

This stupa a little distance away from the center of Kathmandu and is among the largest stupas in Nepal. It dominates the sky line and I could see it from my hotel window too. Boudha means Buddha which means wisdom and Natha means God so, Boudhantha is God of wisdom.

The vastness of the stupa or chaitya overpowers you once you come close to it.

Entrance gate to Boudhnath taken from inside the temple

Boudhnatha Stupa with Goddess Harti Devi in front

When you look at the above picture, you see three plinths or levels which represent the earth.

The dome is a representation of water.

The 13- steps are symbols of fire, the parasol or umbrella symbolizes wisdom and the topmost pinnacle is the space.

Devotees paying respect

The base has sixteen sides and has frescos of 108 Avalokiteshwar all around in the niches with prayer wheels in between.

Prayer wheels

Om Mani Padme Hum- the sacred mantra- is inscribed at the base near the wheels. Spinning the wheel clockwise and also circumbulating the stupa in a clockwise direction gives merit.

At the four corners are the four Dyaani Buddha, the fifth one is said to be enshrined in the center (under the dome). Next is a dome which has 108 niches with Buddha placed inside.

On top of the dome, is a rectangular structure which is called harmika. Harmica is a small square platform with a fence located at the top of a stupa. It has an umbrella or a canopy on top as a symbol of honor and respect.

Above the harmika are the thirteen steps or bhumis. Here, in Bodhanatha they are square in pattern. These bhumis are the obstacles faced  in attaining enlightenment. It decreases in size as it goes up and is a representation of fire. Crossing of each step takes us closer to Nirvana. Nirvana does not mean death, it means enlightenment. Above the 13 bhumis, you see an umbrella or a canopy which signifies air and on top is space.

Prayer flags can be seen tied to the sides. The fluttering caused by air carries the mantra inscribed on the flags and purifies the places it goes through.

enlarged view of the eyes

Within the harmica, one sees the magnetic eyes of Buddha on all four corners of stupa. It means that whatever lies below the eyes is worldly. According to Nepalese beliefs, the eyes of Buddha on the four corners observe the activities of everyone. It is also believed that peace would prevail where ever the eyes would look. Look closely and you see a third eye which represents the eye of enlightenment.

Then you see a squiggly nose which looks like a question mark. It is actually the Nepali way to write number one. It signifies that there is only way to God realization.

the view in front of the entrance

Stone carved Hindu deities with offering of flowers, vermilion and rice. They are placed near the entrance at the ground level or the base. Above this level, begin the three plinths.

Lord Ganesha at entrance

Giant prayer wheel on the side of entrance

prayer wheels on the side of entrance

Harati Devi or Ajima Devi temple

In between the entry and exit doors is the Hindu Goddess Harati Devi temple. She is also known as Goddess Ajima and also Sheetla Devi.

The Goddess Harati Devi

The Goddess has long been revered as the protector of children as she removes all small children's diseases, especially small pox and other communicable diseases in children. Mothers come with their small children to seek her blessings.

On top of the Goddess's pinnacle is a lotus on top of which a double sided Vajra. The Dharma Chakra and the golden deer can also  clearly be seen.

Incense burning urn

Entry beyond level one is prohibited. On either side on this level are two people mounted on elephants. The features look very close to Mongol features. I don't have the correct answer but since the monastery opposite the stupa is a Tamang Monastery, probably it also has a Mongolian influence.

Tamang Gompa or Guru Lhakhang Monastery:

Commonly also known as Boudhanatha Monastery, it lies just opposite the Stupa.  This two storey monastery is beautiful and a must see. Gompa is monastery in Newar.

Monastery

Tamangs are a very small Tibetan community in Nepal and follow Tibetan Buddhism. This gompa or monastery has mainly Tamangs as their followers, in addition to others.

There are three schools in Buddhism- Hinayaana, Mahayaana and Vajrayana, which is said to be an off shoot of Mahayana which soon became an independent school. Vajrayana is more popular in Mongolia, Bhutan, Nepal, Tibet, India (Ladakh and Sikkhim), with very few followers in China, Korea, Japan. 

Since, Tamangs are Tibetian descendants, they practice Vajrayaana.

Let me write few lines on Vajrayana.

It is called Vajrayana (Vajra is thunderbolt or Dorji (Tibet) and Yana is vehicle) because of the use of Vajra in their spiritual practice.  I have mentioned about Vajra in my earlier post Some beliefs and rituals in Bhutan

Also, important are the bell which is used in conjunction with vajra, prayer beads and prayer wheel.

It is also known as Mantrayan (because of the Mantra they recite, Om Mani Padme Hum),

It's also referred as Tantric Buddhism because a lot of fresco or images or paintings are shown with angry, fierce forms. The wrathful expression shows the protection of dharma teachings.

The role of Lama (Tibet) or Guru (India) is very important.

Huge bell at entrance of Monastery

Tibetan golden deer with Dharam Chakra on top of Monastery

Why are deer on sides of Dharmchakra? Honestly speaking, I was intrigued by this for I had seen this only in Nepal.  I researched a lot and finally I was able to piece my puzzle together. The reason is when Lord Buddha gave his first sermon at Deer Park at Sarnath, called the Dharmachakra Parivartan,  it was so powerful that even all the birds and animals came to listen to it. The deer was also in the audience. According to Tibetan tradition, any monastery which has both the direct teachings of Buddha (Kanyur) and commentaries (Tengyur) will have this symbol of golden deer on both sides of Dharma Chakra (Dharma wheel) on top. The Dharam Chakra has eight spokes which refer to the Noble Eight fold Path.

Fresco on wall

Painting on roof

Entrance to prayer room

Fresco representing the wheel of life

the other side of entrance to prayer room

The above frescos show the influence of tantric tradition in Buddhism.

Vajrasatva 

The prayer hall has many golden idols along its wall. I have taken and pasted some pictures.

          Sakhyamuni Buddha                  Shanta Rakshita                                   Dharma King                                                                   

     Amitabha Buddha                         Maha Guru                             Singhmukhi Dakini

taking blessings from monk

view of Boudhnatha from my hotel room

All around the stupa, there are shops which sell prayer wheels, beads, thankha paintings etc. Its exciting to see all the stuff. Further ahead, there are shops selling grains, pulses, spices.

It saddens me that portion of this magnificent stupa were damaged during the recent earthquake on 25th April. I have posted some pictures on the damage to this stupa in my earlier post on Recent loss of cultural heritage of Nepal