Tuesday, January 18, 2022

Nathlaung Kyanung temple, Bagan

Nathlaung Kyanung, west of Thatbyinnyu is the only surviving Hindu temple dedicated to Vishnu in Bagan.

History of temple:
The time of its construction is debatable as after King Anawrahta ascended the throne in 1044, he started spreading Thervada Buddhism. So, it must have been constructed during the reign of King Nyaung-U- Sawrahan, known as Taungthugyi around 961, a century before Thervada Buddhism was introduced.
Another theory says that it was built by King Anawrahta as a place to keep all non-Buddhists religious images as he wanted to strengthen Thervada Buddhism. This temple became a place to where Hindus devas and Burmese nats were kept. The temple therefore for Burmese meant "shrine confining nats".
For Hindus, it was Nath-daw-Kyaung meaning the "Shrine of the Sacred Devas" or Nat-hl-khaung translating to "Shrine of the reclining Deva" because of the reclining Vishnu inside the shrine. The temple is said to be constructed between 1044 to 1077.

What's special about this place?
This is the only surviving Hindu temple in Bagan.
Look for good images of Vishnu which are quite well maintained.
very faint, hardly inlegible tablet on the side of temple
There is a mandapa, a porch, outside the temple. It was originally covered by a wooden canopy. The shikhara is almost damaged. On its side, Ngakywenadaung Pagoda which is a 10th century pagoda. It is 13 meter bulbous Pyu style pagoda.
There is an image of reclining Vishnu in an alcove on entering the main hall.
On top are two images of Goddess Brahmani.
Goddess Brahmani is considered as the Shakti of Brahma and sits on a swan.
reclining Vishnu
Brahma is said to have come out of the navel of Lord Vishnu, so he is sitting in the center above Vishnu. Since, Brahma is the creator, he has Yama, the god of death on one side and Chitragupta, who keeps record of our deeds on the other side.

Vishnu image mounted on wall
Vishnu image
Vishnu image, frescos on wall which is very faint. Must have been covered all over earlier.
a small part of fresco, but impossible to decipher
Mahazedi pagoda as viewed from a window inside the temple
There were statues of 10 incarnations of Vishnu on its outer wall, just a few remain. Some of them have been stolen away as in picture above. A German engineer smuggled a large Vishnu image seated on Garuda. It is now in a museum in Berlin.
There must have been reliefs in the empty spaces but that is all gone.
image behind grills
some of them are damaged. It is impossible to figure out what they are.

The temple was badly damaged in the 1975 earthquake, but at least only the main hall and a part of shikhara remain.

Saturday, December 25, 2021

Khao Yai National Park, Thailand

Khao Yai National Park became Thailand's first national park in 1962 and UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2005. It is around 2 and half hour drive from Bangkok and makes an ideal weekend getaways from the busy life of Bangkok.

There is no shortage of hotels in this area which suit to everyone's budget. We went during the covid time so there were very few people visiting the area.

entrance to park
cars line up to buy entrance ticket
Entrance ticket needs to be bought by everyone. For local Thais the amount is very reasonable.
entrance ticket

The Shrine of Palad-Jang:

On side of the entrance to park is a shrine guarded by plenty of stone animals, elephants, zebra, hens macaques... probably symbolizing animals inside the national park.
It is customary not only in Thailand but in almost all places in South-east Asia to pay homage to deity before embarking on journey specially up the hills or near a country border.
It is said the deity protects you from all dangers. Built in 1962, this temple is visited by all Thais to pay homage and seek their blessings.
You cannot not stop yourself from looking to the right side as soon as you enter the national park.

Chao Por Khao Yai came from China as an immigrant to Cha-am, a district in the southern part of western Thailand. He had a very good knowledge about traditional medicine, known as the medicine man, he gradually over a period of time was elevated to the status of spiritual father.
People stop, make offerings, pray for the wishes to come to fulfilment and proceed.

on the side of temple
The collection of animals probably symolize the  animals inside the national park, though I doubt if one can get to see zebras there :)

garlands on trunks
garland on tusks
Like all temples, wats in Asian countries, you need to take off foot wear before entering.

Inside the shrine, Chao Por Khao
The image of Chao Por Khao is flanked by two golden lion statues. Below, on the sides are two golden and green colored dragons. Dragon, a mythical animal is a symbol of power and grandeur.
more animals, this time, small ones on side
more animals on side
a small shrine beside the main one
burning lamp
pouring oil to lamp
a bucket is placed at the bottom which collects extra oil after the lamp bowl gets overfilled
buying flowers and bottle of oil for lamp
praying in front of temple

a small shrine in a corner
animals under a tree
After paying visit to the shrine, we proceed to drive up the mountains.
Driving further up the mountains, surrounded by thick vegetation.
A stone tablet on side of the road catches our attention
The park was made an ASEAN Hertitage Park in 1984 and in 2005, with other parks around Dong phaya Yen mountains, it was proclaimed a UNESCO World Heritage Site under the name " Dong Phaya Yen-Khao Yai Forest Compex"
information of vegetation
forest trees
another view of forest below
Sai Sorn reservoir
a male sambhar deer by the side of reservoir
sambhar deer in close up
a female sambhar deer or Indian munjtac? Could not clearly see from road.
Tourist information center
After a short break here, stretching our legs, we proceed to Haew Suwat waterfall.