The word Temple of Literature or Van Mieu sounds very different when you hear it for the first time. After visiting this place, one realizes the importance education was given in Vietnam so many years ago. The temple was active for almost 700 years. The culture of importance and promoting education specially in science and literature is still there.
four pillars of ritual gate entrance to temple
Entrance to temple is made of four pillars, two large in the center and two small on its either side. There are two nghê or
mythological lions facing each other on top of center pillar. The side
pillars have upside down phoenixes with their tails on top.
The temple of literature was no less than a temple. 
Everyone used to come on horses. They all including the emperor had to dismount at that place before entering the compound.
Very close to Temple of Literature is this park. People come here to relax and sit under a pavilion.
architectural model of temple
map
History of temple:
The temple was built in 1070 by King Lý Thánh Tông to honor Confucius and was dedicated to science and literature. Over a period of 700 years it underwent a series of changes and extensions.
From 1070 to 1253:
From 1070 to 1076, this place functioned only as a place to worship Confucius and his disciples but in 1076, King Lý Thánh Tông's son, Lý Nhân Tông, instructed the construction of Quoc Tu Giam or Imperial Academy.
After this, it became Vietnam's first university. As the name suggests, it was dedicated only restricted to son of royal people, and nobles. The place was now a place of worship and also a place for education.
Son of King Lý Thánh Tông's grandson, Prince Lý Càn Đức, who later became King Lý Nhân Tông, then five years old was the first student of this prestigious school.
From 1070 to 1156 the place functioned well. In 1156, Lý Anh Tông,(great grandson of King Lý Thánh Tông) repaired the Temple.
From 1253 to 1484:
In 1253, King Tran Thai Tong, opened the doors of this institution to commoners with exceptional qualities. He further changed name from Quoc Tu Giam to Quoc Hoc Vien, meaning the National Academies.
During the reign of King Tran Minh Tong (1300 - 1357). Chu Van An was appointed to Quoc Tu Giam who taught the princes and also served as the principal. He passed away in 1370, and was worshipped by the KingTran Nghe Tong (1321- 1394) in the Temple of Literature, located next to Confucius.
From 1484 to 2000:
In 1460, King Le Thanh Tong ascended the throne. He was one of the greatest rulers of later Le dynasty. In 1484, he directed to erect stele for the meritorious students after 1442. Till his death in 1497, 12 examinations were held once every three years. If a student could not clear the examination, he would have to wait for another three years to compete.
In 1762, the huge Bich Ung Bell was placed by King Le Hien Tong.
Hue, under the Nguyen Dynasty was not only the political but also the cultural and religious center. So, King Gia Long (1802-1804) in 1802, shifted the training school to Hue.
Confucian examination system came to an end by early 20th century and by 1919, they were permanently stopped due to French occupation. Soon between 1945-1954, the French demolished part of the temple specially the 5th courtyard to make room for people during wartime.
The site was neglected and remained so for quite sometime.
Restoration works started in 1920, 1954 and the last one in 2000 when the authorities reconstructed the buildings in the 5th courtyard but the original design has been kept intact.
Architecture:
The Temple of Literature covers an area of 54,000 square meters, including the lake of literature and Giam garden. Brick walls surrround the temple on all sides. It has been in the North-South axis which is similar to the temple at Qufu, Shandong (China), Confucius's birthplace.
The interior area is divided into five sections. I shall be covering those areas in detail.
The entrance to temple is through four brick pillars. Two nghe face each other in the central one. On the two sides are two phoenixes on each pillar.
There are five courtyards with one thing in common, entrance to each courtyard is through three gates: big in center flanked by two smaller ones.
First two courtyards have lots of trees and ponds on either side. The third one, where the stele are has a pond in center.
The fourth courtyard has the House of Ceremonies and fifth is a museum now with a bell and drum tower on its either side.
The map below is self explanatory.
I came across this very clear map in https://www.orientalarchitecture.com
Points of interest in this temple:
- Established as a place for education, son of King Lý Thánh Tông's son, Prince Lý Càn Đức, who later became King Lý Nhân Tông, then five years old was the first student of this school.
- Khuê Văn Các is chosen as a symbol of Hanoi capital with the desire that literature shall shine like khue star and can be seen in 100,000 VND.
- The first Confucian exam was held during the reign of King Lý Nhân Tông of Ly dynasty in 1075 and Lê Văn Thinh was the winner, but unfortunately the engraving on stele had not started till 1484 during the reign of King Lê Thánh Tông.
- Confucius along with his four disciples are worshipped in the Temple of Ceremonies, the three Kings (King Lý Thánh Tông (1023-1072), who founded the temple of literature in 1070, King Lê Thánh Tông, (1442-1497), started the stone stelae of doctors laureates in 1484, and King Lê Thánh Tông, (1442-1497), who started the stone stelae of doctors laureates in 1484) are worshipped here. Also, is Chu Văn An, prominent headmaster of the school who is held at high esteem here.
entrance ticket
Văn Miểu – Quoc Tu Giam(Temple of Literature and Imperial Academy)
Văn Miểu – Quoc Tu Giam consists of two main areas: Văn Miểu (Temple of Literature), Quoc Tu Giam (Imperial Academy).
entrance to temple
central gate flanked by two smaller ones
The central large gate was used only by the Kings, the side gates for students.
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The two-tiered temple gate has the words Văn Miểu Môn (gate of Temple of Literature) written in Chinese characters just above the bronze bell which could be touched only by a monk. It was rung when an important person entered the temple.
On either side of first entrance is a lion and a dragon.
"Mang Tiger Ha Son" or Lower Mountain Mang Tiger, can be seen coming down the mountain with a heroic expression, the quality which the energetic intellectuals entering the life to help the people and country should possess.
Dragon symbolizes power, strength and success of students.
mandarins on top of gate face the inside of temple
stone dragons of the Nguyen Dynasty towards inside of entrance gate
view of entrance gate from inside the compound
mandarins on top of gate face the inside of temple
There are dragons on outside belonging to Le Dyansty.
The first courtyard begins now.
First Courtyard:
The first courtyard or Khu Nhập Đạo is an introductory or initiation area. It means preparing yourself on the road of Confucianism.
this banyan tree is said to be 300 years old!
fish in the pond
an old sluice gate
another pond
Apart from introspection, this area also provided a place to relax from the outside world.
Đại Trung Môn or Đại Trung Gate with small gates at sides
Entrance to Second Courtyard:
The entrance from Khu Nhập Đạo to second compound is through Đại Trung Môn. On the sides are two smaller gates. On the right is Dai Tai Môn or attained talent gate and on the left is Thanh Duc Môn or accomplished virtue gate, implying that the successful candidate needs to have both virtue and talent.
Like in the earlier courtyard, this area too has two ponds on either side.
Đại Trung Gate
This gate has three compartments in the central gate.
On the roof are two carps flanking a gourd shaped vase. The carp and vase are decorated with glazed porcelain and terracotta pieces.
Carp on top of the roof relates to a Chinese story in which it mentions that only few fish can swim upstream against the water current and from that very few can leap over a waterfall. The successful carp who can jump, turns into a powerful dragon.
This means that a lot of hardship and determination has to be overcome by a student. Only the successful candidates have the capacity to help people of the country.
Entrance to third compound:
Entrance to third compound is through Khuê Văn Các
Khuê Văn Các
Pavilion of Constellation or Khuê Văn Các as it is called was built in 1805 during the reign of King Gia Long of the Nguyen Dynasty. Khue is the name of the brightest star in constellation of 28 stars.
image at the same angle as the currency note below
Khuê Văn Các is chosen as a symbol of Hanoi capital with the desire that literature shall shine like khue star.
the gate has two floors with four circular windows on all sides. Wooden railings surround the upper floor.
In the center hangs a plate with 3 Chinese characters:" Khuê Văn Các" written on it.
Names of selected candidates who had passed Confucian examinations were read out from here.
In the center of compound is 30 meter x 30 meter pond, Thiên Quang Tỉnh .
The square pond represents the earth, and circular windows represent
the sky, a balance of heaven and earth, promoting Confucianism.
On either side of the Thien Quang well, are two sheltered halls with tortoise and bluestone stele on top of it.
sheltered hall in two rows
On either side of the Thien Quang well, are two sheltered halls with tortoise and bluestone stele on top of it.
In total there are 82 steles divided into 2 rows on each side, 41 stele on each side of pond.
The stele was decorated with flowers, leaves, dragons, moon. The style of stele was specific to a particular period.
A knowledgeable person can know the period by looking at these decorations.
A total of 1,307 graduate candidates names and their details are displayed here from 82 Royal examinations (81 during Le dynasty and 1 during Mac dynasty) held between 1484-1780. Originally, there were 91 steles but due to wars, only 82 have been traced.
During the reign of King Lý Thánh Tông(1460-1497), 12 examinations were held every three years.
Each stele rests on the back of a tortoise signifying wisdom and longevity.
When I visited, a group of school children had come to learn about the Doctorate Laureate's Stele.
Across the pond are two such shelters in the middle with only one blank stele inside. The sides are open and there is a pedestal in the center. These were the communal houses where one could go and worship the stele.
Teaching students about the Doctoral Laureate's Stele
Vietnamese believe that touching the head of these turtles before exams would bring good luck. Most of the turtles have rubbed in surfaces on their head. A fence has been put around to prohibit students from doing that.
shelter with a blank stele inside
stele in the west side
The first Confucian exam was held during the reign of King Lý Nhân Tông of Ly dynasty in 1075 and Le Van Thinh was the winner, but unfortunately the engraving on stele had not started. It started under the reign of King Lý Thánh Tông in 1484.
Well of Heavenly Clarity (Thien Quang Tỉnh)
The pond, Thien Quang means "light of the sky" and reflected the sky. It must have been clear at that time. It acted like a mirror helping the students to look at their reflection and dress up before entering the Hall of Ceremonies further ahead.
The pond is now green and murky.
Entrance to fourth compound:
Passing through Đại Thánh Môn or the Gate of Great Success leads to the fourth compound, Đại Bái Dường.
Đại Thánh Môn or Gate of Great Success
As with earlier gates, there are two small gates on either side of the main gate. Kim Thanh referring to gold and and Ngoc Chan to jade.
A huge incense burning urn stands in the center of Dai Bai courtyard. It was a practice for students to burn incense sticks to saints praying for success in exams.
beautiful incense burning urn with dragons on each side
nghe on either side of incense burning urn
There are 9 compartments beneath it.
dragons facing each other
Two buildings flank Đại Bái Dường. They were living quarters or hostel for the disciples of Confucius. Huge bonsai decorate the compound now.
This area has been made into a museum where old pictures are displayed.
picture showing One pillar pagoda between 1009-1225
ink slab
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Temple of Literature with Van Chuong Lake in front of it. The lake was earlier called Thai Ho
place as it looks now
enter Đại Bái Dường or the Great Hall of Ceremonies
Đại Bái Dường or the Great Hall of Ceremonies
The kings made offerings to Confucius here as he too was not permitted to go inside the High sanctuary. A small portion of cranes seems to be polished which is the result of people touching the cranes as it brings in good luck.
Two bronze crane on turtle symbolizing the harmony of yin and yang stand very close to entrance.
They were donated in 1946 by Quynh Loi village where they were worshiped earlier. Turtle and crane together also symbolize harmony between earth and sky.
students doing a project work
A paper was kept on a stencil. Children brushed black ink to transfer the pattern.
incense burning urn at entrance to Điện Đài Thành or High Sanctuary
The palace dedicated to Confucius is located parallel to Đại Bái building. It is connected by a communal house in the center.
It also has 9 compartments with an image of Confucius facing south in center.
famous Buddha fingers fruit as an offering
On either side of Confucius are four images on throne, two on either side. These were Confucius's disciples.
On the left are Tăng Tử and Mencius while on the right are Nhan Tử and Tử Tư.
Gold plated ceramic tortoise
The grounds of Imperial academy or Quốc Tử Giám:
Behind Đại Bái Dường or the Temple of Literature is the place where the actual university was once located. When training school shifted to Hue, it became Khai Thanh Shrine, a place for honoring Confucius' parents.
In 1946, it was completely destroyed by French during the Indochina war.
Thai Hoc was completed on the old foundation of old Imperial Academy on the 990th anniversary of Thang Long, Hanoi in 2000.
temple guardian at entrance
Quốc Tử Giám on either side of Thai Hoc house
The two buildings flanking the central buildings were the classrooms. Several exhibitions now take place here along with many cultural events. The front part of serves as an exhibition house and the rear part is a museum now.
It covers an area of 1530 square meters which includes the front house, rear house, bell house, drum house.
calligraphy by an artist
In one of the rooms on the side, I saw a writing names. I admired fascinated by how smoothly he made his brush strokes. It looked so simple, but am sure is very difficult to perfect this art.
Quốc Tử Giám or School for the sons of the Nation
This, fifth courtyard was formerly the Quốc Tử Giám, which was founded by King Lý Nhân Tông in 1076. It was a school for the children of the royal family and senior officials. Students lived here and were taught from books made using wooden blocks. This is of course a new construction built on old architecture and style.
another building opposite
entrance to rear house
Chu Văn An (1292-1370), a well known Principal of the school
model of temple
uniform of students of the Imperial Academy
original wood building
On the first floor, are images of 3 kings who contributed a lot to the development of this school.
King Lý Thánh Tông (1023-1072), founded the temple of literature in 1070
Incidentally, King Lý Thánh Tông, was the son of King Lý Thái Tông, who prayed to Goddess of Mercy, Quan Am goddess to give him an heir. King Lý Thái Tông later built One Pillar Pagoda.
King Lý Nhân Tông, (1066-1127), founded the first National Academy in 1076
King Lê Thánh Tông, (1442-1497), started the stone stelae of doctors laureates in 1484
Bell tower:
bell tower
The Bich Ung, Great Bell and the brick wall of temple
The bell was cast in 2000 and is 6.11 feet by 3.3 feet.
Thunder drum:
Thunder drum or trong sam so named as on hitting gives the sound of thunder. It is the biggest drum in Vietnam.
Thunder drum
Built in 2000, the drum took three months to make. Body of the drum is made with 50 pieces of jackfruit wood. The tree is said to be 300 years old. This wood is light, does not shrink, is termite proof and keeps the "sound".
Buffalo skin is stretched over the drum.
the head looks very new
Back of teacher house from road.
view of both levels of Imperial academy or Quốc Tử Giám
I decided to walk further ahead and came across a new stele, which was either in its final stage of completion or in the process of being cleaned.
a wooden horse stands in the garden of temple
place for burning votive paper
We exited through side door to the main road.
paper craft cards
Temple of Literature is a place which is a must see in Hanoi.
Entrance ticket: 30,000 VND
Timings: 8;00 A.M. to 5:00 P.M.
