One of the largest cave in Thuy Son mountain is the Am Phu caves or Hades which is exactly the opposite of Huyen Khong cave. Huyen Khong cave is huge, serene with a peaceful ambience, on the other hand Am Phu caves gives a spooky feeling at times. Since, the caves are dark and at many levels, it gave a perfect ambience to recreate hell and heaven here. "Am Phu" means "hell" in Vietnamese and the deeds good or bad after a person passes away are projected here.
The 302 meter cave has caves up to a height of 40 to 50 meters. It is impressive with stalactites and stalagmites and you need to crane your neck up to see the ceiling.
We passed by this cave while buying our ticket but thought it would be up in the hills. After finishing our tour of caves, we asked and came to know that it is very close to the ticket counter. It is a separate cave with a separate entry ticket. That is the Am Phu cave.
entrance to cave
History of caves:
Am Phu caves is witness to many events in Vietnam history.
In the 19th century:
Going back to the 19th century, King Minh Mang visited the caves in the Thuy Mountain or the Water Mountain. Since, it was dark inside, he sent his soldiers with torches but since it is so huge, they came back. Before coming back, they threw a pomelo to see if it had any end or opening. The next day, it was found on the beach nearby.
During the Vietnam War:
During the war in 1968, these caves were used as a hiding place for Vietcong communists. A field hospital was also based here to treat all those injured. With a view that the destination remains a secret, the entrance was blocked. But, the place was attacked by Americans and South Vietnamese army but faced retaliation from the communists.
Nghe guarding the entrance on either side of steps
After climbing 20 steps, two figures stand on either side-- "Khuyen Thien" and "Trung Ac" or Mr. Good and Mr. Evil. The expression on faces are self explanatory. These are the faces of each human, good and evil.
These guards control all souls getting in and out of hell once they cross the Yin Yang bridge.
The bad, evil (Trung Ac) with a scimitar or sword on and an angry expression on his face.
On the other side is good (Khuyen Thien) with a peaceful expression on his face.
Mr. Evil, Trung Ac
Mr. Good, Khuyen Thien
Crossing Yin and Yang bridge:
When a person dies, if he has done good deeds, the soul is flown directly past the river to heaven by Long Than and Ho Thap. 
Yin Yang bridge
According to Buddhist philosophy, a person after his death has to cross Yin Yang bridge or Nai Ha or Dau Thai bridge over the Vong Xuyen river or the soul crossing river.
The sides have pillars of 12 zodiac animals which symbolize that people with all zodiac signs will pass over this river.
The floor of the bridge has spider webs. This is the web of heaven which is not easy to pass for everyone. It also represents that you cannot hide your wrong doings.
On one side of the bridge is the birth side or the living side and on the other, dead side.
If a person has done bad deeds, then he is thrown in water below this bridge, the water is not clear but black with poisonous snakes. You can see hands coming out of water asking for help. This so much resembles the theme at Wat Rung Khun, or White temple, Chiang Rai, Thailand.
entrance to cave after crossing the Yin Yang bridge
After crossing the Yin Yang bridge, there are two white candles which are 2 meter high and called soul lights.
soul light
Nam Tao and Bac Dau on either side of passage
Two figures are etched on either side of the wall--- Nam Tao and Bac Dau. They are the rulers of the Book of Life and Death.
Nam Tao
Nam Tao has a book in his hand from which he checks the names and ages of dead people. Only those whose names are in the book are taken to the King of Hell.
Bac Dau
On the other side is Bac Dau. He holds a torch in his hand and leads the way to souls who do not know the way.
Nam Tao and Bac Dau after going through the checklist, take them to "Phan Quan" or the judge.
Main Hall:
The central hall is huge with a large stele standing in the center of hall.
tStele
The stele was erected to commemorate the heroes and martyrs who fought and sacrificed their lives.
It is 4 meters high and 2.2 meters wide.
Stele with words Anh Linh Dai written on it
A huge sand stone incense pot in the style of Dong Son bronze drum is kept in front of the stele. It is 1.5 meter high and has a diameter of 0.8 meter.
A narrow path on the left side goes to Heaven or Thien Gioi. Steps on right side lead to hell.
On the wall of cave on right side, is a stele to commemorate the heroes and martyrs in the war of 1968
Altar of Kshitigarbha Boddhisattva or Dia Tang Bo Tac
Behind the huge stele is the altar of Kshitigarbha Boddhisattva or Dia Tang who is the King of Hell. Behind him is the wheel of reincarnation and above him are 9 dragons which represent 9 gates of hell. Dia Tang went to hell to help people to become good people.
Guanyin:
Just behind the Anh Linh Dai altar to the right, is an image of Guanyin.
Guanyin
A stream, Giai Oan flows in the center of which Guayin stands amongst lotus. The stream is magical and is said to connect the souls of dead to their live ones in the world. It flows to a place called "Tam"-"Spirit", where the sins committed by a person are erased.
Before entering the temple of judgement is a figure with tongue coming out.
Evaluation of deeds:
The soul is presented for sins they have committed in their life.
Court of Justice:
On the right of Kshitigarbha Buddha is Phan Quan Dien or the Court of Judgement with scales in front of him.
Phan Quan, the judgement deity
The deeds, good or bad are weighed on a spiritual scale (Thien Ly) and accordingly
one is sent to the level of hell.
This is parallel to the philosophy of
death in Hinduism, where Chitragupta (चित्रगुप्त ) checks the names of those dead, keeps an account of every person's
deeds in a register.
He also weighs the good and bad deeds (Karma) of the person in his worldly life. On the basis of those, he is sent to heaven or hell and also the life he is going to lead in his next life.
Ox-headed man
Horse-faced man
After the judgement has been made, the ox-headed man and horse-faced man escort the souls to Court of Hell Kings. In Vietnamese mythology, the ox-head and Horse-headed man are called Đầu Trâu or Mặt Ngựa or Ngưu Đầu and Mã Diện. They are the first beings a dead soul meets after entering the underworld.
The Courts of Hell Kings:
Opposite to Phan Quan Dien or the Court of Judgement is the Courts of Hell Kings or Minh Vuong Dien or Thap Dien Minh Vuong.
10 Kings of Hell who are in charge of controlling ten stages of punishment, take turns to question every soul of the wrong doings they have committed in earth according to the Court of Justice they visited earlier.
There is a mirror, "Nghiet Kinh Dai"in front of the Kings. Those souls who deny or complain against any sin are shown the mirror. If, a person has shown good deed, he is shown the way to Heaven or Thien Gioi. Sometimes, they are made to work for Kshitigarbha Boddhisattva.
If, the sin is very serious, they are sent to 9 levels of hell. A Pi Prison is said to be the deepest and harshest.
Out of the 10 Kings, 9 kings are in charge of prisons. One god, Chuyen Luan Vuong tries to convert souls and reincarnate after having suffered enough punishment in hell.
asking for forgiveness
On the side, you get last chance for asking forgiveness for any sins committed. Before being reincarnated, souls receive a bowl of rice porridge from Manh Ba, Goddess of Forgetfulness to forget all sins of previous life.
Two sets of stairs:
There are two sets of stairs in the cave-- one on the right side which goes up to Heaven or "Thien Thai Gioi"on right side of Kshitgarbha Boddhisattva and another on the left side which go down 10 levels of hell, worst being "Nguc A Ty".
Going down the steps to hell:
The stairs to Hell or the underworld are steep and narrow. There are no natural lights but artificial lights make going down easier. Owing to water dropping from sides, the stairs tend to become slippery.
Thich Hue Hung was a Buddhist monk who monitored the restoration of caves between 2003 to 2006. He explained that those who have wronged in life go 10 levels down to hell.
The depictions of what a soul undergoes in hell soon begin on going down the stairs.
crocodiles and alligators eating man
man being devoured by a snake
being chained and beaten up
torture
Muc Kien Lien finds his mother
In the deepest level of A Pi Prison is a scene from the legend of Maudgalyaya, known as Muc Kien Lien in Vietnam. Muc Kien Lien is considered the second of the Buddha's two foremost male disciples.
Rescuing his mother from hell:
The above scene portrays Muc Kien Lien rescuing his mother. Muc Kien Lien using his psychic powers wanted to know in which world his parents have been born. He found his father in heaven but could not find his mother. He went to Buddha asking to help him. Buddha leads him to his mother who is in hell. Muc Kien Lien finds it impossible to help her.
Buddha advices him to make merits on his mother's behalf which would help her to be reborn in a better place.
Muc Kien Lien meets Yama, the ruler of underworld but finds no one. Yama tells him that on the full moon day of the ninth lunar month, he permits everyone to go out for a day. On this day, they can receive the merits from their well beings and be liberated from hell.
To this day, Vu Lan Festival is observed every year when dear ones hand over their merits to their ancestors and showing gratefulness to parents.
In another adaptation, Muc Kien Lien finds his mother has been born as a ghost or preta. When she is offered a bowl of rice, she is unable to eat it and is turned into a burning coal. Muc Kien Lien asks Buddha to help him. Buddha tells him that he can help his deceased parents and ancestors by offering food to Sangha, on the 15th day of the seventh month. This way the monastic community would transfer the merits to the deceased.
place for repentance
You may get another chance to repent for your bad deeds if you go and ask forgiveness.
Way to Heaven:
To the right of Anh Linh Dai is the way to heaven, Thien Thai Gioi.
going up the stairs
view of Anh Linh Dai from above
a long path going up to heaven
Metaphorically speaking, way to heaven is very difficult. The steps are small, irregular and narrow.
The way up is lined with images of Buddha and angels on the walls, birds, clouds.
Guanyin with many arms
many images surrounding a big one
We come down the steps without going up to the top.
Overall, it was a good experience. My only regret is not climbing up to heaven. May be one day I might gather spirits to go to heaven!
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