Prasat Banteay Srei 1, Siem Reap

One of the most beautiful temples in Angkor is Banteay Srei. It is 25 kms off track from the line of main temples in Angkor but it is definitely worth a visit.

Built in Angkor, Banteay Srei is a Shiva temple but surprisingly has been named Banteay Srei which means "Citadel of women". Srei is girl or women in Khmer so it is the temple of lady. It was built to honor female deities. But it is primarily a Shiva temple.

I fail to understand why a Shiv temple would be named so. Many interpretations have been considered since ages. Some saying that the work is so delicate that it could have been done only by female hands. I have seen very fine work done by men. 

Another theory suggests the standing devkanyas being the reason. Apart from these there are consorts of Shiva and Vishnu, maybe that was the reason. Whatever may be the reason for naming the temple, it has one of the most beautiful and intricate carvings on sandstone in Cambodia.

Some features of the temple:

• Most of the temples in Angkor have been built by ruling kings. Banteay Srei is the only temple which was not built by any king. It was built in 967 A.D. during the rule of King Rajendravarman II by his advisors Yajnavaraha and Vishnukumara. That means the construction of temple took place at least 150 years before Angor Wat!
• The temple was originally named Trilokbhuvaneshwara (त्रिलोकभुवनेश्वर), meaning the God of the three worlds( heaven, earth and hell) and in midst of a city called Ishvarpur(ईश्वरपुर) meaning the city of gods.
• It was primarily a Shiva temple facing south . Vishnu occupies the northern side.
• It seems to have been revered till 1303A.D., after which for reasons not clear it was abandoned.
• It was rediscovered in 1914 but the restoration started very late in 1930s.
• It is said to be the first temple in Angkor to have used anastylosis, which is a restoration technique used in archeology.
• One important feature of this temple is that complete scene from Ramanyana and Puranas have been depicted on pediments, which are triangular arches over a door.
• Made in red sandstone, the material is soft to etch but can withstand weathering for a long period. No doubt the temple still stands majestically .

Time line of various monuments throughout the world

red sandstone temple stands on the same color ground

rear view of temple surrounded by moat

After passing by a lotus pond and walking over red colored path we reach the eastern entrance of the temple. This is the main entrance. Just few interesting facts about the temple architecture.

• The temple has a main entrance to the east which leads to an enclosure surrounded by a moat. This entrance leads to another enclosure which further leads to the innermost or the sanctum santorum.
• Each entrance has a gopuram (which in simple term can be said to be a gateway which has either a tower or structure on top of it).
• Though the temple of Banteay Srie is not big as compared to the other temples of Angkor but the intricate etching on sandstone obtained from nearby Kulen mountains is one of the finest and a marvel to behold. A typical gopuram has a colonette which are the columns on either side. Then there are lintels which are horizontal beams on top of the gate. On top of the lintel is pediment which are usually triangular. The etching on a pediment is called a tympanum. I shall be mentioning these terms often in my post. Banteay Srie has the finest work on its pediments. 
• All of gopurams have a pediment which depicts a scene either from Ramayana or Mahabharata,  the two great epics in Hinduism.

Entering the temple:
We now move towards the temple. There are four enclosures and we enter through the outermost or the fourth enclosure.

Laterite and brick wall enclosing the temple with moat surrounding the temple. The picture shows the innermost or the third enclosure.

Eastern gopuram IV:

As is clear the temple entrance faces east. I have marked the points of interest in this enclosure.

map made not to scale

east side entrance

The pediment (#1) shows Indra on three headed Airawat or Erawan, his mount.

pediment on eastern gopura or entrance

Indra on three headed Airawat

how beautiful the carving is, naag with makar on side

close up, Indra on Airawat at the entrance pediment

a view of all enclosures

A causeway(#2) leads to eastern gopura III, straight ahead in the above picture. On the sides are rudiments of columns which once stood.

These columns enclosed the corridor leading to the temple. The columns probably got damaged by elephants roaming in that area.

On the right side (southern gallery) of causeway, the pediment shows Shiva and Uma on Nandi(#3).

Probably Nandi sat at the entrance

bas-relief on a tympanum called Uma-Maheshwar, showing Lord Shiva on Nandi with his consort, Parvati

a close up of Uma-Maheshwar

The face of Parvati or Uma has been damaged.

On to the left of causeway (northern gallery) is a scene of Narsimha, an avatar of Vishnu who is half lion and half man slaying the demon Harinyakashyapu, the father of Prahlad, a great devotee of Vishnu, (#4)

According to Vishnu Purana, one of the Hindu religious texts, Prahalada was a great devotee of Lord Vishnu. His father Hiranyakashyapu wanted to avenge the death of his brother, Hiranyaksh who was killed by Varahavatar, the third incarnation of Vishnu.

Hiranyakashyapu pleased Lord Brahma by his penance. When asked for a boon, Hiranyakashyapu asks for being immortal, which is not possible, so he asks he not be killed by any animal, human, inside or outside his house, during the day or night, neither on land or in sky, nor by any weapon. Brahma agrees to this. Fully assured that no one can kill him now as his conditions are impossible to fulfil, Hiranyakashyapu now forbids everyone in his kingdom to stop worshipping God and accept him as the Supreme.

His son, Prahlada is a great devotee of Lord Vishnu which is not tolerated by the father. When inspite of making him understand, Prahlad cotinues to worship Vishnu, he tries to kill his son in various ways by poisoning him, throwing him from mountain top, being trampled by elephants. When nothing worked, he asked his sister Holika to help him. Holika had recived a boon that she would not to be burnt by fire. So, Prahalada reciting his Lord's name sat on his aunt's lap on the burning pyre. To  great surprise, Holika got burnt and Prahalada is saved by the grace of his Lord. That day when Holika was burnt is celebrated as Holi amongst Hindus. It signifies the power of God's name and victory of good over evil.

Prahalada refused to accept Hiranyakashyapu as Supreme and kept on chanting the Lord's name. Tired one day of his son, Hiranyakashyapu asked his son, "Where does your Lord live?"  Everywhere, the son answered. "Does he live in this pillar?" and the son replied in affirmative.

Angered by now, Hiranyakashyapu strikes the pillar with his mace. With a huge roar, out comes Narsimha, the fourth incarnation of Vishnu.
Narsimha avatar is a form with the body of a human and face of a lion so is neither a human nor an animal. The pillar is in the courtyard which is neither inside or outside the house. The time is twilight which is neither day or night.
He takes Hiranyakashyapu on his lap which is neither land nor sky. With long claws which is no weapon, he tears his chest and slays him. Strange are the ways of God and whatever we may do, He finds a way to do his will.

damaged part of tympanum with Lakshmi

A lintel with Varun, son of sage Kashyap and God of ocean /water lies on the ground

a tympanum being assembled, makar on the side

Walking the rest of causeway leads to east gopura III. A boundary from this enclosure surrounds the moat and inner enclosures.

contd. to Prasat Banteay Srie 2, Siem Reap