Oudong is a small town in Kandal, 40 kms north of Phnom Penh. It is also called Udong or Odong.
Past rice fields and lotus flower lakes, the journey from Phnom Penh takes around one and half to two hours depending on the traffic.
Past rice fields and lotus flower lakes, the journey from Phnom Penh takes around one and half to two hours depending on the traffic.
The slow traffic when passing through crowded towns further delays the time of arrival.
View of chedi on top of Oudong mountain from road
lotus flowers by roadside
Rise and fall of Oudong:- After the decline of Angkor Kingdom and sacking by Siamese during 14th to 15th century, Longvek or Lovek became the new capital in 1528.
- It flourished from this time till it was conquered by King Naresuan of Siam in 1593.
- The city of Udong was founded in 1601 by King Srei Soryopor.
- After the Thais attacked Lovek, the capital city was again moved to Oudong or Udong in 1618 by the then ruler, King Srei Soryapor.
- It was officially called Oudong Meanchey, Oudong comes from the Sanskrit word, Uttanga (उत्तंग) which means eminent. Meanchey is formed by two words--- Chey has its root in the Sanskrit word Jaya (जय ) meaning victory and Mean is "to have". The word Oudong Meanchey means "to have eminent victory".
- Under King Ang Doung (1841-1860), many canals and pagodas were constructed here.
- In 1863, King Nordorm signed a French protectorate treaty with France, which gave France control over Cambodia's foreign relations in return for protection against their enemies. In 1866, the French Protectorate convinced the King to move the capital to Phnom Penh.
- Leaving just a few people behind, the whole of Oudong shifted to Phnom Penh. So, King Nordom was the last king to be crowned in this capital.
Connection between Oudong and Khmer Rouge:
On the grounds that Oudong represented feudalism, most of the old capital was badly destroyed during Khmer Rouge (1974- 79). Even many beautiful temples and stupas were not spared. The temple of Arthaross which had royal treasury in a cavern was badly damaged.
On the grounds that Oudong represented feudalism, most of the old capital was badly destroyed during Khmer Rouge (1974- 79). Even many beautiful temples and stupas were not spared. The temple of Arthaross which had royal treasury in a cavern was badly damaged.
memorial dedicated to the Khmer Rouge victims
The bones and remains of people were excavated from mass graves in 1982. The remains of about 1,200 bodies were found here. The memorial reminds people of the genocide and atrocities by Khmer Rouge.
relaxing in hammocks inside picnic huts on a weekend
The climb is not very challenging. One needs to climb 509 well paved steps.
Long tailed macaques (Macaca fascicularis) frolick on trees. This one decided to feast on a lotus flower. I was surprised to see that they were not at all aggressive.
palm fronds fans and drinks for sale on the way up
Preah Sakhyamuni Chedi:
The exquisite white stupa built in Khmer style also known as Sanchak Moni Chedi was completed in 2002. It is also referred to the as the Oudong temple. It houses the relic (an eyebrow hair of Buddha) which was earlier kept in a stupa outside the train station in Phnom Penh.
Phnom Penh railway station
Just in front of Phnom Penh railway is a golden stupa in which earlier were enshrined relics of Buddha.
the golden stupa opposite railway station
All around the base are relief of Buddha's life
Gautam becomes Buddha, probably King Ajatshatru on elephant
Gautam Buddha takes his first seven steps as soon as he is born
Buddha's first sermon to his five disciples
Buddha's pani nibban, his disciples sad that their master is leaving them.
King Norodom Sihanauk and Queen Norodom Monineath Sihanouk relocated them in 2002 to this place.
The ashes of King Norodom Sihanouk were interred here in 2014.
praying at the base of the temple
birds inside cages
freeing the birds to make merit
Cambodian and the Buddhist flag flutter outside the temple
seven headed naga guards the entrance on both sides
seven headed naga
seven headed naga on sides
The main door is generally kept closed
pediment showing baby Gautam Buddha taking his first seven steps as soon as he was born
snow lions, temple guardians, Thewada figures, naga guarding the temple
three headed elephant decorate sides of temple
pediment on this side shows Buddha with his disciples
view of Kompong Speu province from above
Hall of 1000 Buddhas:
Beneath the stupa, down the steps, is a hall with 1000s of Buddha images.
stairs leading to the hall
main altar
side of hall
more images
images in various postures
Bodhi tree behind the temple
Buddha feet
selling fresh fruit with spiced salt on the bridge connecting the temple to three chedis
Oudong's three prominent chedis:
Crossing a small bridge, three chedis are seen. These chedis have been built to enshrine ashes of prominent Kings, King Soriyopor, King Ang Duong and King Monivong.
Two styles of chedis can be seen here, "Chedi Trong Kreoung" multi-level with a square base and
"Chedi Moul" or bell-shaped.
Chedi Damrei Sam Poan and Aung Daun fall in the first category of multi-level chedis with a square base. It has decorations on every level starting from bottom to top.
Chedi Mukh Prom has a bell shaped form on the top.
Chedi Damrei Sam Poan:
The chedi on northwestern side, the first if one enters from Preah Sakhyamuni chedi, was built by King Chey Chetha II(1618-1626), and enshrines the ashes of his father, King Srei Soriyopor, the king who moved the capital from Longvek to Oudong in 1601.
The chedi stands on a three-tiered platform
Emerging elephants come from the base, small pillars on top seem to be holding the structure. This is a very unlike Cambodia architecture. I have seen elephants emerging from the base of a stupa in Wat Klang Wiang, Chiang Rai.
This architecture is very specific to Sri Lanka and must have been inspired from there.
emerging elephants at the base of chedi
inscription stone
a girl making an offering at a small shrine
elephants at the base of chedi
Chedi Trai Traing:
The central dagoba or chedi was built by King Nordom in 1891 to enshrine the remains of his father King Aung Daung, (1845-1859) who died when Oudong was still the capital.
King Ang Doung did a lot for the development of his capital. He constructed canals, bridges and many pagodas.
a small shrine at its base
inscription stone
The chedi is in Trong Kreoung style. It is decorated with colored green, white and orange tiles from bottom to top. Not sure if the niche was supposed to have anything inside
beautiful flower motifs adorn the sides of chedi
flower patterns in colorful tiles on a pillar
Chedi Mukh Prohm:
From Ang Duong's chedi, a series of uneven steps take you to the last of three chedis, Mukh Prom located on the south eastern side of the three chedis.
Mukh (मुख) is from the Sanskrit word meaning face. It derived its name from the four faces of Brahma facing four cardinal directions.
It is the funeral chedi of King Sisowith Monivong who ruled from (1927- 1941).
it is painful to walk barefoot on uneven steps going towards the chedi
The chedi comes under Chedi Moul style, where the stupa is bell shaped
The faces are decorated with a 7-tiered lotus head gear and sit on a bell-shaped chedi.
Since, the name of chedi is Chedi Mukh Prohm or Prom, the faces are that of Brahma which look in all directions of the province.
The exquisite lattice work gives an impression of the King wearing a robe with a necklace. Here, this part of structure looks very similar to the silver pagoda in Phnom Penh.
close up of a very Bayon like Prom or Brahma face
Garuda form the base of this chedi
patterned border
Garuda holding naga at the base of chedi
line of ascetics form a fringe on top
beautiful carvings at the base
The chedi can be said to be three tiered as in niches all around are seen Indra, seated on three headed Airawat or Erawan. On top, sits Vishnu on his mount Garuda.
Dancing apsaras flank the carvings. The niche is guarded by seven headed naga.
Thuk kok chooh is a Cambodian shaved iced dessert. Soaked basil seeds, red beans, are added to shaved ice. A drizzle of palm sugar along with a red and green syrup is poured. Condensed milk on top enhances the flavor of this iced dessert.
Vishnu seated on his mount, Garuda
Below Vishnu, Indra sits on Airawat or Erawan
Vishnu on top of inscription stone
path taken earlier by people
Taking a break:
It was a very hot and humid day, totally dehydrated, we decide to take a break.
a family enjoying an outing
shops at the base
munchies made of bean paste and rice batter
shopping time :)
family time under picnic huts strewn all over the place
Sumptuous spread of lunch
Vipassana Dhura Buddhist Center:
A side road from the temple leads to Vipassana center. We had visited it some time back but never got an opportunity to put up the pictures.
It is a beautiful monastery that is home to both nuns and monks.
Meditation center
golden snow lions and naga guard the entrance, stupas at the back on hill
massive structure at center
Later visited a temple with Jade Buddha inside.
Jade Buddha in a temple
interior of temple with tall pillars and murals
murals on ceiling
sides of the temple
mural reflecting day today life
daily chores of people
There still must be many things I have missed out. Maybe, I might visit this place once again.
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