Wat Arun, Bangkok

One of the most important landmarks of Bangkok is Wat Arun with its shimmering prangs is something no one can miss on the west bank of Chao Phraya river.

The wat seems more beautiful at dusk when sunlight falls on its glass pieces and the wat glitters.

History of the temple:

• Wat Arunratchawararam Ratchawormahawihan commonly known as Wat Arun is a first class royal temple which stands majestically on the west banks of Chao Phraya river.
• There is no evidence when the temple was built but it existed as Wat Makok during the Ayutthaya period. Its name was changed to Wat Makok Nok as there was a new temple with the name of Wat Makok Nai in the same area.
• When King Naresuan reached the temple at early dawn, he decided to renovate it and named it Wat Chaeng.
• It was home to the Emerald Buddha for five years (1779-1784) which was brought by King Rama I from Laos and later shifted to Wat Phra Kaew in 1784.
• In 1784, new royal temple was constructed so the Emerald Buddha was moved from Wat Arun to the ordination hall of new temple.
• Construction of 234 meters high central prang and the surrounding four prangs started during the reign of King Rama II and the restoration of Wat Cheang known at that time continued.
• The temple was named Wat Arun Ratchatharam.
• It was again changed to Wat Arun Ratchawararam by King Rama IV, the name which continues till date.
• During King Rama V's rule, the whole temple was restored.
• During King VI, VII, VIII, the temple did not need any major restoration works.
• King Rama IX made major restorations to temple. Since, it is a royal temple, the Thai kings played a very important role in its conservation.
• The last restoration took place in 2013 and it was reopened in 2018.

entrance ticket

Royal seal of King Rama I at the entrance

guardian figures

two Chinese statues which guard the entrance

There are plenty of Chinese figures not only in Wat Arun, I saw them in Wat Suthat also.  Thailand had heavy trade with China exporting rice. The empty ships needed something heavy. So, these human and animal figures, rockeries were loaded on the ship as ballast.

King Rama III decorated the wats witth these beautiful statues.

Prang:

The central prang is the most beautiful part of temple. The existing one is not original, as the one which was made earlier was only 16 meters high. The present one was renovated during King Rama III and continued being repaired till the reign of King Rama V. The last restoration started in 2013 and the temple was reopened in 2018.

The central prang is surrounded by four satellite prangs.

central prang with satellite prangs

Satellite prang or Prang Thit:

On the corner of the first level surrounding the principal prang, stand four stucco prangs decorated with colored porcelain.

corner prang

Each prang is divided into 3 parts: a base, center and the top.

base of prang

kinnar and kinnari in south-west chedi

Throughout the base are kinnar(male) and kinnari(female). They have head and body of human but have a tail and wings of a bird.

Above the alcoves are alternating 27 demons

God of Vayu:

On four sides inside an alcove, is God of the wind, Vayu or Phra Pai on a white horse. He serves God Indra so is placed below in height. Incidentally, Lord Vayu is the father of Hindu god, Hanuman.

Above Phra Pai's arch, there are figures of Narasingha (in maroon). Narasingha is half lion and half human and is the incarnation of Vishnu. He took this form to protect his devotee, Prahlada and killed Hiranyakashypu (his father) who had a boon not to be killed by any man, animal or god.

Above Narasingha, are Deva Phanom figures with their hands folded in wai position

The top of prang has Shiva's trident which is gilded. Below, Deva Phanom with folded hands.

Central prang:

The main or central prang is 67 meters high.

central prang

Garuda supporting the prang

Yakshas supporting the prang

plaques at the base of chedi

The prang is decorated with colored porcelain. Some are pieces of famous Benjarong pottery.

The central and the surrounding prangs are decorated with sea shells, porcelain plates and glass pieces. These materials which came as a ballast by Chinese ships.

The prang is decorated with flowers, leaves which represent the Himvant forest located at the base of Sumeru.

This level has total of 64 demons (Mara) or Marn Bak. They are decorated with pieces of porcelain.

There are steep stairs which lead to the top, but they are not accessible now, as it is too risky and liable to injuries. Earlier, visitors were permitted to go up.

Mondop:

There are four mondop at the four directions and are on the second level.

mondop

The base of mondop like the corner prangs has kinnar and kinnari in small alcove. Above the niches, are demons supporting the mondop.

mondop in front of stairs

Opposite to these stairs, on the north mondop is Queen Mahamaya(mother of Gautam Buddha) standing under a tree. Two gods on either side hold Lord Buddha as soon as he is born and takes three steps.

The above image is enshrined in east mondop. Here, Lord Buddha is sitting under an umbrella of Muchilinda.

Here, also there are figures of Garuda and above them are 52 porcelain Deva Phanom

On four corners, in an alcove is seated Indra on his three-headed Airawat. On top of which on four corners is a replica of prang.

The peak of central prang is decorated with a golden crown or monkut (mukut) which is 1.20 meters high and 52 cms in width.

Devas or Deva Phanom supporting the prang

side view of mondop

Surrounding the base of prangs are plenty of more Chinese figures.

Viharn Noi or the old Chapel:

Very close to the cafe' area is theold Viharn which has Phrajulamanee chedi.

The chedi enshrines Lord Buddha's hair and relics. A copy of emerald Buddha sits in front of Phrajulamanee chedi.

Old Ordiantion Hall or Bot Noi:

The old ordination hall is quite old and is said to be built during Ayutthaya reign.

Statue of King Taksin

Taksin's bed

King Taksin is said to be ordinated and lived in this hall before he died.

Just behind King Taksin's statue separated by a wooden screen are 29 images of Buddha

Inforamtion on King Taksin

Monument of King Rama II:

Overlooking the banks of Chao Phraya is the statue of King Rama II.

King Rama II

He was instrumental in constructing Phra Ubosoth and Phra Viharn. King Rama II devoted most of his life restoring the wat.

Garuda stands near a pier

way to pier

kinnar on side

Entrance to Ordination Hall:

Entrance to ubosot is guarded by two giant figures.Thotsakun and Sahatsadecha

The green figure is called "Thotsakun"(Ravana) and the one in white is "Sahatsadecha". These figures are based on Ramakien but the design is Chinese stuccowork. They are decorated with coloured porcelain and hold a big club in their hands.

They stand to protect the sacred ubosot behind.

In Ramayana, the character of Sahatsadecha does not exist.

Chinese animal figures in front of Thotsakun

Thotsakun

Sahatsadecha

entrance to ubosot

work on gable

Chinese figure by the side of entrance

Gateway and totems, entrance to viharn khot

Garuda with Vishnu on his shoulders, not a good picture

Ubosot or Ordination Hall:

ubosot or ordination hall

This ordination hall was built during the reign of King Rama II.

dancing Vishnu on the gable of ubosot

sema stone outside the ubosot

Eight sema stones stand around the ubosot hall. They are entirely made from marble. The top part is intricately carved.

inside the sema arch

Foo dog statues outside the hall

Beautiful image of Phra Puttanarumit between the entrance to hall.

The royal Buddha image stands on a raised platform. The exquisite walls and pillars are decorated with golden floral and glass patterns.

Phraputtanarumit

The wall was restored in the reign of King Rama IV.  The Niramitr Buddha image is in Abhay mudra, gesture of fearlessness or blessing.

a ritual ceremony in progress

principal image, Phra Puttatummisorrajlokkatattdilok 

It is in Bhumisparsh mudra. The walls all around are decorated with murals and date to the reign of King Rama V. They illustrate the story of last ten incarnations of Lord Buddha.

It is said to be designed by King Rama II who was a great patron of art and poetry. He crafted Buddha's face out of wood and then covered it with gold leaf.

On King Rama IV's command, ashes of King Rama II were buried under the pedestal.

Sitting below, in front of the image are Buddha's two main disciples.

King Nemirat Chadok, one of Buddha's ten Boddhisattaa

Mahosat, another Boddhisatta

more foo dogs in the courtyard

Phra Viharn Khot:

The ubosot or ordination hall is surrounded by a green and red tiles covered corridor with four entrances in four cardinal directions.

There are 120 images of Buddha in this cloister. The roof of the cloister was made during King Rama II's time.  Each image sits in bhumisparsha mudra, in front of blue and yellow mural wall which was made during the reign King Rama III.

Outside viharn khot are Chinese statues of animals, human figures which came from China.

At the four corners of Viharn khot are 4 Chinese pagodas.

8 metal elephants, two metal elephants stand by the side of each entrance along with Chinese figures.

octagonal marble Chinese pagoda

In each corner of courtyard, there are octagonal Chinese pagodas.

Inside each pagoda there are eight granite statues of Chinese saints, called "poy-sien"

Two Chinese statues sitting on a chair outside the ordination hall

Viharn:

Just next to ordination hall, is viharn

gable on viharn

Lord Buddha sits in abhay-vitarka mudra

Opening hours: 8:30 AM - 6:00 PM

entrance fees: 100 Thai Baht