Trang An is a protected area of more than 2,1680000 square meters with ancient temples, pagodas including caves, valleys. There are said to be 49 explored caves till date. More findings are continuing.
Its amazes while taking the boat tour, how kings from earlier times came to these places.
The dangerous rocky mountains along with rivers, forests and caves became an ideal location by King Dinh Tien Hoang as a fortress in the southern part to protect his capial Hoa Lu in the 10th century against the Mongol invasions. It was later used by Tran dynasty in the Vu Lam Palace.
Many such places are seen when going on the trip.
Since, Trang An is one of the protected areas it is explored by boat. Karst is a kind of erosion of limestone mountains by water and wind resulting in the formation of caves, tunnels, waterways. This natural beauty welcomes visitors.
Trang An boat tour:
ticket office
ticket
wharf
The boats are all lined up. Everyone is supposed to put on a life jacket by law or else the boatman is penalized.
3 tours to chose from
There are 3 tours and any tour can be opted for the same price.
Boat tour route 2:
We went on the 2nd one which would take almost two and half hours. This tour covered 4 caves and 1 temple, though there were 2 more which we just saw from outside.
This is the most preferred route as it is not too long and at the same time gives tourists a taste of the flora and fauna.
From Trang An pier - Lam cave - Den Thanh Cao Son temple - Vang Cave - Thanh Truot cave - Suio Tien temple - Dai cave - Hanh Cung Vu Lam temple - King Kong village - and back to Trang An pier
the tour begins on a traditional sampan on Sao Khe river
After passing through thick foliage and Noi Lam valley, which covers an area of 9000 meters square, we reach our first post, Lam cave.
Cave # 1: Hang Lam or Lam Cave:
This is the first cave we entered. It is 60 meters long. Hang is cave in Vietnamese.
nearing the entrance of cave
Farmers brought their harvested rice through this cave. The water was very muddy so it was named Lam (muddy) cave.
The length of cave is 60 meters.
light coming through the end of cave
Den Thanh Cao Son temple:
After some time, a temple emerges with mountains and forests behind. This is an ancient three tiered pagoda located on the southern shore of Red River Delta in the province of Ninh Binh.
According to legend, when the capital of Hoa Lu was being built, Dinh Tien Hoang constructed three temples to worship the gods guarding the threee citadels. It was commonly called Hoa Lu quartet. God Thien Ton guarded the eastern citadel, Quy Minh south citadel and Cao Son guarded the west citadel.
The temple here, is dedicated to Thanh Cao Son (God of Mountain). The saint is credited with fighting against the Thuc army, teaching the local people irrigation and boosting agricultural development during the reign of the 18th Hung Kings and is given the status of god.
The temple was renovated in 2017.
Thanh Cao Son temple with karst mountains behind
passing by the temple
The water is so clear that you can see the plants beneath.
aquatic plants clearly visible
Cave # 2: Hang Vang or Cave Vang:
As the height of the cave is not much and the voice echoes a lot. It came to be known as Hang Vang (cave of echoes).
cave in front of us, still and calm waters
The cave is 250 meters in length. Many species of fish are said to dwell in the waters here. So, it is also called Hang Ca or cave of fish.
On exiting the cave, we enter Thuy Dinh.
lotus plants and flowers on side of river
Suoi Tien temple:
Going along the Sao Khe river, we see the Suoi Tien temple where Saint Quy Minh and his wife are worshipped.
Quy Minh Dai Vong was a general under the Hung kings and defended the Son Nam border and also protected the country during the reign of King Hung Due Vuong, ie the 18th Hung king.
The surrounding water is very clear. It is said that the fairies used to come to bathe here, hence the name Suoi Tien (Fairy stream)
Earlier, the area was frequented by people coming to collect firewood, and grow rice. People were afraid of wild animals but people felt protected praying to Saint Quy Minh.
In the 10th century, King Dinh Minh built this temple praying for protection to guard the south of Hoa Lu Citadel.
Every year on the 18th day of the third lunar month, Trang An festival is held here. Ethnic musical instruments and folklore are performed and tributes paid to Quy Minh Dai.
On steering ahead, a lone mountain stands which is called Dia Linh mountain, meaning the spirit of heaven and earth, the souls of mountains and rivers meet here. It is the shape of a giant pen tower.
According to legend Saint Nguyen Minh Khong, visited during the reign of King Ly Thanh Tong. He went looking for medicinal plants in the area, was fascinated by the beauty and slid off the boat.
People since then call this cave Thanh Truot(the cave where Thanh fell off).
I see a cave far ahead
cave comes in front
Buddha fingers
Buddha fingers is a yellow colored fruit belonging to citrus family. It only has a rind and no pith. It is customary to present this fruit at the altar of deity.
Buddha fingers fruit
Since, the calcite formation resembles this fruit, it has been named "Buddha fingers"
The length of the cave is 300 meters and stalactite formation can be seen on cave roof. The above one had a shimmering hue to it.
another stalactite formation
goats grazing by river
Goat is the local dish here and it is a common sight to see whole spit-roasted goats by the roadside. I wanted to take a picture but the fast moving vehicle could not give me a steady picture.
The goat meat here is firm and low in fat. Since, the goats run and jump a lot on the mountains, their muscles are firmer.
Hang Dai:
Hang Dai is 150 meters in length and is the largest cave in Trang.
stalactite formations
Hanh Cung Vu Lam temple:
Exiting Hang Dai, is Vu Lam Royal Step
Vu Lam Royal Step
something pink on rocks!
golden apple snail eggs
On inquiring, I was told that these are the eggs of golden apple snail(Pomacea canaliculata), which live in fresh water. I had never seen them earlier. I found them quite attractive and pretty. Though pretty to look, I was told that they are not safe to touch as they contain neurotoxins.
The eggs are bright pink in color. They must remain above water or else they do not survive.
Vu Lam Palace:
On our side is a 13th century Vu Lam Palace. This was Hanh Cung, base of the Tran Dyansty to confront the Nguyen and Mongol army. Another feature is that the Tran kings were ordained as monks
to practice and expand Buddhism here.
The complex is a collection of many temples--- Temple of Tranh Kings, Temple of Hung Dao Vuong Tran Quoc Tuan, Thien Phuc Pagoda, Temple of the Three Holy Mothers and Temples of generals of Dinh dyansty.
Temple of Tranh Kings:
Temple houses images of 6 kings of the Tran Dynasty who made their mark and retired here. The kings were: King Tran Thai Tong, King Tran Thanh Tong, King Tran Nhan Tong, King Tran Anh Tong, King Tran Minh Tong and King Tran Nghe Tong.
Temple of Tranh Kings in 13th century
The temple has images of the King generation. Taking pictures inside was not permitted so I made notes of whatever I saw.
Temple of Hung Dao Vuong Tran Quoc Tuan:
Next to the Temple of Tranh Kings is the temple of Hung Dao Vuong Tran Quoc Tuan. Tran Hung Dao (1228-1300) was a famous general of the Tran Dyansty.
A white and pink wooden horses are placed on the sides of the central image. The reason being that horses were the only means of transportation for these generals. Pink color denotes yang and white stands for yin.
In addition, there are images of other generals as Pham Ngu Lao (1255-1320), Yet Kieu (1242-1301), and Truong Han Sieu.
Images of Taoism are seen in the temples in Vietnam. Here, also, on right side, that is south of the temple is the image of Quan Nam Tao or Nam Cao with a gentle face signifying birth in the world.
Quan Bac Dao with an unfriendly face is seen on the north side. He signifies death.
Both these gods record the deeds of mankind from birth to death and determine the fate of each person and the life in which they should be reincarnated as in their next birth.
Ang La Pagoda:
Next to the above temple is Ang La Pagoda.
incence burning urn outside the pagoda
An image of Amitabha Buddha inside the pagoda. The images sits in a meditative posture facing west, protecting the people.
Altar at the temple
Probably Guan Yu-- warrior god
fish near the steps
journey back to wharf
Thuy Dinh temple:
We did not stop at this temple. Just took some pictures while passing by.
passing under the bridge
Kong - Skull Island:
On the way back to wharf, is the Kong island wharf. The popular movie, Kong- Skull Island was filmed here. After the shoot was over, it became a tourist place and was thrown open to public in April 2017. There are bamboo huts and the sets are still kept intact for visitors. The locals dress up as aborigines, sometimes scaring tourists.
head of King Kong
boats getting ready at the wharf for another group of people
It was in all a very pleasant trip. Really admire the strength the women steering have and the tough life they go through.
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