Saturday, January 2, 2021

Ananda Phaya, Bagan

One of the most beautiful temple no tourist can miss to notice is the Ananda temple. With its golden shikara, it stands out amongst the Bagan temples.
It was originally white in color, but in 1990, on the occassion of 900th anniversary of temple, only the shikhara was gilded.

entrance to covered zaungdan (walkway)
History of temple:
During Kyansittha's reign, eight monks one day came to seek alms. They told the king about a legendary place, Nanda Mula caves in Himalayas which was very beautiful. The King was impressed with the description and asked them if they could design and help built a temple exactly like that. The temple is said to be built in 1091.

There are different versions regarding the name of this temple.
  • One version says that the temple was named Nandamu but over a period of time it came to be known as Ananda temple.
  • Once the temple was completed, the King fearing that it may be replicated in future, executed all eight monks, builders and craftsmen.  King Kyansittha was also known as "Sri Tribhuvanaditya Dhamma Yaza" meaning the King of Justice shining in the three worlds. He also placed his images at the feet of all Buddha images in the temple so it seems a little unacceptable that he would have executed those monks.
  • Another version says, it is named after Ananda, who was the first cousin of Gautam Buddha and one of his favorite disciple.
  • Ananda in Sanskrit means bliss, pleasure, happiness so it was named after this.
plan of temple
Architecture of temple:
The temple is a beautiful blend of Mon and Indian architecture never seen in Bagan temples. Unlike other temples in Bagan built earlier where the east side projects out, this temple is proportionately built having a cruciform layout.
The main part of temple has four standing huge Buddha images which have entrances of huge teak wood carved doors. Two circumbulatory corridor run around connecting the Buddha images. The corridors have plenty of Buddha images all over the wall.

The center part of temple is cube shaped with four standing massive Buddha statues. The shikhara topped by hti stands on this core. The four entrances are provided with teak wood carved doors in the interior.

One outstanding feature of the temple are the apertures high in the ceiling allowing light to fall directly on the faces of Buddha images. Also, on the both sides of Buddha are vents through which light falls on the images from both sides.

Inside the west portico on a pedestal are Buddha's footprints(Siripada) with offerings of cash
Mitey, one of the Deva statues on both sides of west entrance
Miteya, Dev statue, a close-up
Buddha images:
The four standing 31 feet or 9 1/2 meter tall Buddhas in four directions are made of solid teak wood covered with gold leaf. They have specific names.
Going from west in clockwise direction: Gautam Buddha (west), Kassapa (south), Konagamana (east), and Kakusanda( north).
Only images of Kakusanda and Kassapa are said to be original and date to 12th century when the temple was built. They both stand in dharamchakra mudra or setting in motion spreading Buddha'a teachings. Images of Konagamana and Gautam Buddha got destroyed in a fire and replaced in 17th century. They are much different from the original ones as they are in Mandalay style.
standing Gautama Buddha, west side
There are two statues near Buddha's feet. The one on his left side is Shin Arahan who was the Mon religious advisor to King Anawrahta and introduced him to Thervada Buddhism. 
On the other side is King Kyansittha. They have been sculpted from a single  piece of stone.
The image stands in abhaymudra, that is no fear.  The present image is a replacement to the original one and is made of bronze.
circumambulatory corridor with Buddha images
There are windows in the corridors which let in natural light and air into the temple.
Buddha images in alcoves

a small statue in an alcove on the wall
Kassapa Buddha
Moving in clockwise direction, towards south is Kassapa who is the third Buddha. He too like Kakusandha has his hands in Dharamchakra mudra, symbolic of spreading the teachings  which Buddha gave after attaining enlightenment.
The image has been carved from a single piece of pine.
Kassapa Buddha
 Konagamana Buddha
Moving on to eastern cardinal point is Konagamana, the second Buddha. The present image is comparitively new as the original got burnt down. The face and features are very different from the old construction. The hands hang on the sides. The image is made of teak.
At the feet of Konagamana again is seated King Kyansittha.
In his right hand, is seen a sort of round nut with a stem that symbolises that the dhamma or teachings can cure all miseries.

Kakusandha Buddha
On the northern direction is the first Buddha, Kakusandha.

Huge carved teak doors separate the interior hall from the passages on four sides. The doors are said to be 900 years old.
A signage informs visitors to avoid touching their heads to the door. Devotees, as a sign of respect touch their head to the door.

Sand stone sculptures in corridor:
The corridor has plenty of stone work relating to the life of Gautam Buddha. Most of them are inside at lower level are behind a glass and the reflection of light makes it impossible to take a picture. There are said to be 80 such masterpieces. Each piece has been carved out of a single block of stone.






Prince Siddhartha sees a monk and he came to know about the ultimate aim of one's life.

Prince Siddharta summons his charioteer Channa, tells him to saddle his horse, Kanthaka for his departure. Channa is seen kneeling on his right. Kanthaka is seen on left side.
Sculpture depicts Prince Sidharta taking a last look at his wife, Yasodhara and sleeping son, Rahul before leaving the palace.

work on ceiling
 chinthe or guardian lion
plaster moulding chinthe, side view
Glazed tiles:
There are around 554 glazed tiles all around the base of temple on outside.  The terra-cotta tiles depict Jataka tales.
glazed tiles all around near the base of temple


Mara's army
The green color is still intact. The plaques have Mon writing under them describing each event
Mara's army
bells and arch ways
a baby elephant near the bell post
I was unable to find the purpose of this black stone
Manusiha (a combination of man and lion) on terrace
 A plaster moulding of dwarpala, guardian at eastern entrance of temple
 external side view
the shikhara and hti
The shikhara contains five niches on top of each other on all sides. Each niche contains an image of Buddha. On top of it is the hti, an ornament in the shape of umbrella. All around the shikhara are chinthes, Burmese mythological lions.
On four sides is a square box with a smaller version of shikhara on top of it.
shikhara with stones statues
stone statues at rooftop
All around the outer temple walls are around 1500 stone images carved from a single rock. Plaster moulding of flowers decorate the spire. Also, in the corner, below the chinthe is makara, the mythological animal.

tree whose bark is used to dye monk's robes
place for pouring water over images according to your day of birth
The temple suffered extensive damage in 1975 and 2016 earthquake. The Archaeological Survey of India is helping in restoration. A lot of time will be needed to regain its past glory.


Thursday, December 17, 2020

Lawkananda Phayar, Bagan

Lawkananda Phayar is a golden pagoda on the banks of Irrawady river. The name Lawkananda or Lokananda which in sanskrit is Loka(world) + Ananda (joy) so meaning "joy of the world".


entrance to pagoda
History of pagoda:
The pagoda was built by King Anawrahta or Anuruddha, the founder of Bagan in 1059 to enshrine a replica of molar relic of Gautama Buddha which he recieved from Kandy in Sri Lanka. It is situated by the side of Irrawady river.
The pagoda has an octagonal base with three receding platforms on top of it.
The bell shaped stupa is decorated with flowers.  It was originally white but has been gilded recently.
The top has a hti which is adorned with jewels.
closer view of the floral design on dome of pagoda
a devotee praying
offerings by devotees
pole with hinta bird and statue of two men carrying a bell
across the river, a white structure on top of hill is Tant Kyi Taung
river view from pagoda
A new shrine to house the image of Buddha was under construction. A tv screen with image of Buddha serving as a temporary replacement to the shrine.
There are two inscribed stones pillars of the Bagan period at the back of eastern tazaung or shrine. It mentions the name " Lawka Nanta" on line 20.
temporary tattoo painting by a girl on side of pagoda
temporary tattoo using brush and acrylic colors
On the left side of pagoda are seen two identical pagodas, Ashe and Anauk Petleik pagoda. They are said to be built in the 11th century during the reign of King Anawrahta.

Saturday, October 10, 2020

Khaik Hmaw Wun Pagoda, Yangon

About 20 kms south of Yangon, in the town of Kyauktan lies Ye Le Phaya or pagoda or Khaik Hmaw Wun pagoda. So named as it lies in the middle of water.  The old Mon name of this pagoda was Khaik Hmaw Anawt but came to be known as Khaik Hmaw Wun pagoda after its location in Hmaw Wun creek, a tributary of Yangon river.

History and legend of pagoda:
Thanlyin or Syriam as it was known earlier has Myanmar's largest sea port called Thilawa. Major trade of the country is carried out from here.  About 15 minutes away from Thanlyin is a small town, Kyauktan.
The pagoda was built by King Bawgsena in the 3rd century BC to enshrine Buddha hair and sacred relics there. After that, it has been repaired and additions made by 18 successive  kings who ruled Myanamar.

entrance to pier
waiting for boat, the only way to reach the pagoda
big boat for foreigners
pagoda straight ahead
entrance of pagoda
at foot steps of entrance
Since the whole island is a temple complex, everyone is supposed to take off their footwear at entrance. You may leave it at the boat or may leave in a side corner where one pays the entrance fees.
guardians of pagoda
pagoda guardian
A chinthe guarding the pagoda.
Buddha image on top of main entrance
Pagoda is made of multi-tiered roof called pyatthat which are beautifully decorated. 

entrance to main shrine
flagstaff with hintha bird on top, ceremonial bells on the side
in front of entrance gate, richly decorated fine wood carvings

Buddha images on four corners,  manusiha below, Thagyamin on side
Manusiha is half human and half lion figure very commonly seen in buddhist pagodas. Thagyamin, is the highest ranking nat and is derived from Indra, the Hindu god of rain.
Thagyamin
Magnificent golden Buddha behind glass in an intricately decorated pagoda
close up of golden Ngasat Buddha image
another Buddha image behind glass
The glass makes it very difficutlt to get a clear picture
another Buddha in a corner
image of Buddha in a side room
It was a pretty sight to see small girls as nuns with alms bowl on their sides walking past the road

dried fish being sold in a shop
more fish
At the entrance, where passengers wait for the boats, there are small eateries.
Having a taste of palm fruit 
scooping out coconut meat
more coconut meat left inside

According to belief, 

  • despite floods the water of river never enters the pagoda.
  • the pagoda is never short of space and there is space for as many pilgrims or visitors who come there.

The pagoda has two special myths surrounding it, the water level will never rise to a level high enough to engulf the pagoda and that no matter how crowded it may be inside the pagoda, there is always room for visitors who come onto the island. At the pagoda, the visitors can set free the captive fish and feed the fish in the river.