Wednesday, March 12, 2025

Huyen Khong Cave, Da Nang

Turning to a passage on the right side from Hoa Nghiem cave leads to a huge cave, the Huyen Khong Cave. It is one of the largest cave on the top of Thuong Thai mountains.
The cave during the war, served as a base for the Vietnamese army to plan strategies, train soldiers and also served as a hospital to treat injured soldiers. The sheer size of the cave makes you gasp. It is massive.
walking towards Huyen Khong cave

 passage leading to Huyen Khong cave from Hoa Nghiem cave
Past of Huyen Khong cave:
Being in a remote location, this cave has witnessed many transformations over a period of years. It functioned as an army station many times. During the French Colonial War, it served as a base for the local revolutionaries. Then, during the Second Indochina War, it was a military training ground for the American and South Vietnamese forces.
In 1968, the Viet Minh used the location as a medical unit for liberation army.
 
 view of the cave
With the cave circumference of 25 meters, it has small shrines inside its fold. The natural lights entering the cave through holes on the ceiling are enough, spotlights have been added at places for visitors to get a better view. 
Temple guardians during the Champa period on both sides of stairway have now been painted in bright colors. Similar guardians can be seen outside Tam Thanh cave in Tang Chon Cave. They used to guard the Cham temple earlier.
These guardians have been repainted in bright colors, and am sure the new look is very different from the original statues. The ones in left were said to be administrative mandarins and ones to right as military mandarins.
entering cave from Hoa Nghiem

Military mandarins in blue with sword in their hands, seated on a lion at the entrance on the right side
Administrative mandarins in red with sword sit on the left side of stairs.
 
The first thing one notices immediately after entering the cave is a 3 meter high Sakyamuni Buddha--- Phật Thích Ca in the center of cave. He is seated a little above the floor.
The image in marble was sculpted by Nguyen Chat in 1960. There are many skilled sculptors in Non Nuoc stone carving village at the base of mountain selling plenty of things. It is a good idea to explore the shops and take back home some souvenirs.
 
Buddha  sits in dyaan mudra or meditative posture.
Below Gautam Buddha, is the altar of Dia Tang Vuong Bo Tat (Khsitigarbha). He is one of the four principal Bodhisattva and is the most powerful Buddha of hell.

praying to Sakhyamuni Buddha
the vastness of the cave can be imagined by this
Openings in the roof of cave lets in sunlight inside. This lends a spectacular aura to the cave.
Like Linh Nham pagoda, this cave also has no limestone karts hanging from its ceiling.
another opening
 
Shrines in the cave:
All around the cave wall are small shrines. 
 Shrines of 'Ngoc Phi' and 'Loi Phi'
Ba Chua Tien Temple:
On the left side of the cave is a small shrine to worship Ngoc Phi, the Goddess of Wealth. People pray to goddess to grant them with lots of wealth.
 
 
 image of Ngoc Phi
 
 
Chua Thuong Ngan Temple:
Just opposite to Ba Chua Tien temple on the right side of cave is a smaller shrine, Chua Thuong Ngan temple.  'Loi Phi', the younger sister of 'Ngoc Phi' is worshiped here.

Loi Phi is Goddess of Forest and Mountains. People pray for health and happiness.
 
Nestled inside an alcove is another shrine.
 


Trang Nghiem Tu Temple:Just on the right side of entrance is a Vietnamese looking temple,  the temple of 'Trang Nghiem Tu'.
 
Built in 1825, the temple has 3 compartments
 
  
 
 images inside the temple
Images inside the temple: the middle compartment has an image of Goddess of Mercy, the left compartment worships the three saints, Quan Cong symbolizing righteousness, Quan Binh for wisdom, and Chau Xuong which symbolizes loyalty.
On the right side, Ong To and Ba Nguyet are god of matchmaking and also worshiped for long life and happiness.
Quan Cong, Quan Binh, and Chau Xuong
Guanyin, Goddess of Mercy
Ong To and Ba Nguyet
Very close to the shrine of Loi Phi is an inscription on a marble slab

Trace of ancient temple:
The cave once housed temples of Cham people who used to worship Hindu gods during the 10th century. Traces of some can still be seen-- the temple guardians and a stone slab.
a stone slab by the side of Vietnamese temple

a sandstone sculpture, a testimony of existence of a Cham temple


Sandstone sculpture dating back to late 10th century
 
Very close to Trang Nghiem Tu, is a stalactite formation of women breasts with water dripping from it. Many believe the water has miraculous powers. The water drops into the Cam Lo pool.
Local women believe that touching the stalactite blesses the person on becoming a mother.
water dropping into Cam Lo pool
water collecting in Cam Lo pool and many drink the water flowing down.

exiting Hoa Nghiem cave
Con Nghê guarding the entrance to cave temple. Nghê is a mythological animal-- a Vietnamese unicorn.
moss covered pillar with inscriptions on it
We come back to refreshment area.  Studying the map, we find we have almost finished our tour. Only Ling Unh and Tang Chon are left. We start our descent to those pagodas.

Tuesday, January 28, 2025

Hoa Nghiem Cave, Da Nang

From the relaxation area, we walk towards Hoa Nghiem Cave which is located in Thuong Thai and is the highest peak of Thuy Son. A path goes to the highest peak, Vong Giang Dai.
Very close in the same area is Tam Thai and Huyen Khong Cave which is next to this cave.


entrance to Hoa Nghiem cave
Nghe guarding the entrance
The arched gate to cave is called Huyen Khong Quan. "Huyen" means magnificent, "Khong" is space and "Quan" is a gate. So the name means "gate to magnificent space" inside Hoa Nghiem cave.
A smaller version of Guanyin which is at the main altar inside, stands on top of gate
She holds a pot in her left hand and her right hand is raised to bless everyone


cave entrance
altar of Guanyin
The image of Boddhisattva was added to the cave in 1960. With time, it has become moss laden due to water dropping leading to humidity. She has a gentle expression and stands on clouds. It is supposed to be built by craftsmen of Non Nuoc village. This village is at the base of marble mountains. Most of the marble images have been made in this village.

Ancient stele:
There are many stele and inscriptions around the image.


inscriptions in Chinese and Vietnamese
 
On the right side of Guanyin, is an ancient stone stele, "Pho Da Son Linh Trung Phat". It is oldest stele built in 1640 by Hue Dao Minh Monk and is decorated with lotus flowers with a sun at top. The script is Chinese and mentions the names of people who donated to build Hoa Nghiem Cave.

Behind the image, can be seen more inscription on stone which is partially visible
stalactite on the wall
Moving ahead on the left side is a passage to Huyen Khong Cave.

Monday, January 27, 2025

Dragon Bridge, Da Nang, Vietnam

 Visiting Da Nang? Everyone will advice you to see the dragon bridge at night on Saturday or Sunday. To be honest, it is a fascinating moment when the dragon breathes fire. 
dragon bridge over river Han at day viewed from a distance
The Dragon bridge has a six lanes for traffic. Its construction began on 19th July 2009 and was open to public on 29th March 2013.
It cost a whopping sum of around $88 million.
 
Features of the bridge: It is an excellent example of modern architecture and attracts a lot of tourism in Da Nang.
Material used: steel
Total length: 666 meters
Width: 37.5 meters
The side of bridge is dragon shaped which breathes fire and water every Saturday and Sunday at 9 PM.

There are places from which you can enjoy the view but Tran Hung Dao street is the best place to enjoy the performance.
Before the show commences, dragon changes its color from orange to green to blue.
green hue to dragon


There are plenty of river cruises with viewing of fire breathing dragon show and also dinner. Few minutes before the show starts, all boats line up in the Han river.
The dragon breathes fire nine times with pauses.  It breathes fire thrice, stops, again breathes fire or 3 more times, pauses and again 3 more times. That makes 9 times in total.
breathing fire

smoke coming out after the fire
The sidewalks beside the river has many drink stalls with chairs. You may grab a chair and enjoy the performance enjoying the drinks.


Like fire breathing, it gushes out water 3 times, gives a pause, and then again 3 more times, another pause and again 3 times more which is final. This makes 9 times in all.
The show last for about 15 minutes which is breathtaking.
water spouting
The show is not long but is indeed spectacular and a must-see in Da Nang.