Shwe San Daw Pagoda, Bagan

With a height of 328 feet, Shwe San Daw is one of the highest pagoda in Bagan. It used to be a favorite spot for viewing sunrise and sunset. Many factors as aging building, earthquake in 2017 has restricted tourists from going to terraces. It is not only this pagoda, there are many temples in Bagan where the visitors are forbidden to go up.

History and facts about the pagoda:

• The pagoda was built in 1057 by King Anawrahta
• King Anawrahta is said to be the founder of Bagan kingdom as only after he came to power did Bagan become a prosperous empire
• The king  converted to Thervada Buddhism and wanted to spread the religion. He requested the Mon King of Thaton, Makuta (later renamed Manuha) for a copy of Tripitaka. When the later refused, King Anawrahta invaded, defeated and captured Manuha. He brought him to Bagan and kept him in captivity.
• King Anawrahta constructed plenty of pagodas to gain merits
• Shwe San Daw was built outside the city walls of Bagan to provide divine protection to the city.
• the pagoda was one of the first of its kind to have steps on all four sides going up to the round base of stupa
• the stupa was built to enshrine a sacred hair of Gautam Buddha which King Anawrahta got from Manuha after he defeated and conquered the Mon Kingdom of Thaton
• since, it enshrines a hair relic, the pagoda is named as Shwe San Daw, meaning "golden holy hair"
• All the four corners on all five terraces have images of Ganesha, known as Maha Peinhne in Burmese.
• Hinduism was the religion before the arrival of Buddhism

skyline in the evening, Thatbyinnyu temple can be seen straight ahead

a small stupa nearby

A flight of steps lead to the base of round stupa on all the four sides. The purpose of steps on all four sides is not understood. Maybe, it was to give a symmetry to pagoda.

The entry is now prohibited. The upper terraces provided a very good view of sunset and attracted a lot to tourists at that time.

The Pagoda is made of red bricks and that was its original color till 1957 when the temple was renovated and in order to preserve the brickwork, it was plastered and colored white.

Again in 1990, when the temple was restored, it was simply white washed.

 part of damaged chinthe in one corner of pagoda

The pagoda has five terraces in receding order. A stupa tops the terraces with a jewelled hti, umbrella.
The hti now is not the original, as it toppled during 1975 earthquake.
The terraces had terra-cotta plaques with Jataka tales, which depicted incidences about the previous lives of Buddha. Time has washed everything away and only the bricks and empty spaces can now be seen.

The corners in all the five terraces have statues of Ganesh or "Mahapeinne" as many Hindu deities were worshipped before Thervada Buddhism arrived. The pagoda is also known as Maha Peinhne or Ganesha pagoda.

On the eastern side of temple is a small temple with a bronze Buddha image. There is a screen in front of the image so had problem getting a good image.

Lawkahteikpan Pahto:

On the southern side of pagoda is the Lawkahteikpan Pahto.

The temple has a Mandalay style bronze Buddha image. It is said to be 100 years old. 

Shinbinthalyaung temple:

On the west of Shwesandaw Pagoda is a rectangular building which houses a 70-feet long reclining Buddha with his head towards the south. The inside of building is dark with small windows.

rectangular building housing reclining Buddha

reclining Buddha, image is said to date 11th century

fresco still intact

 a devotee touches the feet of Buddha

 the fresco work is said to be original Bagan work and are in quite a good condition

 Buddha image in niche opposite reclining Buddha

Ganesha or Maha Peinhne image in a corner near the exit

pagoda at dusk

With five receding terraces and tallest pagoda, it is a must see place.

Shwezigon Pagoda, Bagan

One of the very important pagoda to visit in Bagan is the Shwezigon. It is not only beautiful but is also one of the oldest. It holds a lot of religious significance as it enshrines a replica of tooth relic of Buddha. It has many temples and shrine in its precinct.

The pagoda stands between the village of Wetkyi-in and Nyaung U.

History of pagoda:

The pagoda was built by King Anawrahta, who founded the Kingdom of Bagan in 1044. He embraced Buddhism and began constructing temples in Bagan.

He had recieved replica of four Buddha relics which he wanted to enshrine in Bagan. The tooth relic which he got from Kandy in Sri Lanka is said to be in this pagoda.

The other three relics, molar, an emerald image of Buddha which he received from China and collar bone were enshrined at Lawkananda, Tan Kyi Taung and Tu Yin Taung.

The construction of pagoda was started by King Anawrahta in 1059 but it was completed by his son, King Kyansittha at the end of 11th century.

The shape of this pagoda later became a model for pagodas around Myanmar.

There are four entrances to the temple which are guarded by huge monolith lion. Now, only the north- east and north-west corner ones are accessible.

entrance with dwarpala on one side

Dwarpala on other side of gate

flagstaff with hintha bird on top

An octagonal platform forms the base of the golden stupa with three receding terraces. The body of bell shaped dome is made of stone bricks which were brought from Tu Yin Taung quarries. A human chain made seven mile long transported bricks hand to hand to the construction site.

The pagoda has a hti, (umbrella) on top of the dome.

It is covered by more than 30,000 copper plates. At the corners of topmost terrace small replica of pagoda are made.

replica of pagoda at corners

The base of the pagoda has fitted golden kalashas or vases with gilded bronze castings of flowers. Huge fitted stone carved alms bowls are set near them.

Each terrace has green glazed plaques of Jataka tales which relate to the life of Buddha. 

vase with golden gilt flowers

golden chinthe stand on four sides of stupa

close-up chinthe

a twin bodied golden chinthe at base of stupa

There are lotus motifs on dome and a small monk is seen where the arrow points. There are kaalmukha(ogres) all around with garland of flowers.

guardians at stair entrance

 stair going up to zedi

There are large alms bowls in one side of pagoda. Devotees put rice inside.

Like other monuments in Bagan, this pagoda too suffered severe damage in the earthquake in 1975.

There are surrounding structures around the pagoda, I shall be writing about them in my next post.