Manuha Temple, Bagan

Manuha temple is one of the oldest temple in Bagan. Situated on the main road in Myinkaba village it houses four huge images of Buddha.

inscription stone at entrance

History of temple:
King Anawrahta wanted to spread Buddhism and requested a copy of Tripitaka from the Mon King, Makuta. Makuta refused and King Anawrahta invaded Thaton in 1057, defeated and captured the king. Makuta was thus the last king to rule Thaton.
He was taken to Bagan and imprisoned. Manuha was the name given to king Makuta after this.

Being in captivity was very depressing for the king and he wanted to gain Nirvana to get rid of all pains. He requested King Anawrahta if he could construct a temple as it was a normal practice for the kings to build a pagoda or temple at that time.
King Manuha had no money with him so he sold a precious jewel to a rich merchant in Myinkaba. With that money he constructed the temple in 1059.
The temple is named after him.
The east facing temple has three huge gold painted images of Buddha cramped in small rooms probably portraying the anguish, discomfort and agony the King underwent during his days of captivity.

The building of temple is rectangular and is white in color. The first floor is a square structure on top. The edges of both floors are adorned with several small hti's all around.

At the top, there is a huge hti.

alms bowl with a ladder (see the man climbing it on the far side of the bowl)

This huge alms bowl can accomodate forty bags of rice. People offer rice and money into this bowl.

map taken from orientalarchitecture.com

central statue flanked by two other images on either side, "C" in the map above

This is the central image and  measures 46 feet high. The image is seen sitting in "Bhumisparsh mudra" with right hand touching the earth. All the images in this temple are too large for their rooms. The head almost touches the ceiling and there is hardly any space in front.

There is hardly any room to take full length picture.

entrance to chamber, notice the small aperture on top to let the light in

image on the south side, a small window or better to an aperture to let in some light

image on north side

The above two images flank the central one and are each 33 feet high. These two also sit in cramped room with only a small window near the head to let in some light.

 ceremonial bell

pillar on the south-east side with men carrying the ceremonial bell

Pillar on the south-east side with images and animals for paying homage to the eight days of Buddhist week. It is a very common sight to see this in most temples and pagodas. Water is poured on the image coinciding with your day of birth.
Wednesday is split into two, from morning to 12 pm and the second part from 12 onwards.

ceremonial bell

 King Manuha and his wife, Queen Ningala Devi

entrance to reclining Buddha chamber (yellow arrow), "B" on the map

This single, cramped room("A" on the map), has a 90 feet long reclining Buddha image. The head is towards north symbolising a stage of entering parinibbana, or the final passing away, releasing oneself from the sufferings and torture of life.

There are steps which lead to the upper floor from where one could view the images from above but unfortunately, they have closed it.

The face has a peaceful and serene expression

feet of reclining Buddha

souvenir shops outside the temple

There were girls with thanakha jars in hand, Bagan is famous for this leaf styled pattern. I got a pattern made on my cheeks.

Manuha temple is an active place and still worshipped to this date.

Shwe San Daw Pagoda, Bagan

With a height of 328 feet, Shwe San Daw is one of the highest pagoda in Bagan. It used to be a favorite spot for viewing sunrise and sunset. Many factors as aging building, earthquake in 2017 has restricted tourists from going to terraces. It is not only this pagoda, there are many temples in Bagan where the visitors are forbidden to go up.

History and facts about the pagoda:

• The pagoda was built in 1057 by King Anawrahta
• King Anawrahta is said to be the founder of Bagan kingdom as only after he came to power did Bagan become a prosperous empire
• The king  converted to Thervada Buddhism and wanted to spread the religion. He requested the Mon King of Thaton, Makuta (later renamed Manuha) for a copy of Tripitaka. When the later refused, King Anawrahta invaded, defeated and captured Manuha. He brought him to Bagan and kept him in captivity.
• King Anawrahta constructed plenty of pagodas to gain merits
• Shwe San Daw was built outside the city walls of Bagan to provide divine protection to the city.
• the pagoda was one of the first of its kind to have steps on all four sides going up to the round base of stupa
• the stupa was built to enshrine a sacred hair of Gautam Buddha which King Anawrahta got from Manuha after he defeated and conquered the Mon Kingdom of Thaton
• since, it enshrines a hair relic, the pagoda is named as Shwe San Daw, meaning "golden holy hair"
• All the four corners on all five terraces have images of Ganesha, known as Maha Peinhne in Burmese.
• Hinduism was the religion before the arrival of Buddhism

skyline in the evening, Thatbyinnyu temple can be seen straight ahead

a small stupa nearby

A flight of steps lead to the base of round stupa on all the four sides. The purpose of steps on all four sides is not understood. Maybe, it was to give a symmetry to pagoda.

The entry is now prohibited. The upper terraces provided a very good view of sunset and attracted a lot to tourists at that time.

The Pagoda is made of red bricks and that was its original color till 1957 when the temple was renovated and in order to preserve the brickwork, it was plastered and colored white.

Again in 1990, when the temple was restored, it was simply white washed.

 part of damaged chinthe in one corner of pagoda

The pagoda has five terraces in receding order. A stupa tops the terraces with a jewelled hti, umbrella.
The hti now is not the original, as it toppled during 1975 earthquake.
The terraces had terra-cotta plaques with Jataka tales, which depicted incidences about the previous lives of Buddha. Time has washed everything away and only the bricks and empty spaces can now be seen.

The corners in all the five terraces have statues of Ganesh or "Mahapeinne" as many Hindu deities were worshipped before Thervada Buddhism arrived. The pagoda is also known as Maha Peinhne or Ganesha pagoda.

On the eastern side of temple is a small temple with a bronze Buddha image. There is a screen in front of the image so had problem getting a good image.

Lawkahteikpan Pahto:

On the southern side of pagoda is the Lawkahteikpan Pahto.

The temple has a Mandalay style bronze Buddha image. It is said to be 100 years old. 

Shinbinthalyaung temple:

On the west of Shwesandaw Pagoda is a rectangular building which houses a 70-feet long reclining Buddha with his head towards the south. The inside of building is dark with small windows.

rectangular building housing reclining Buddha

reclining Buddha, image is said to date 11th century

fresco still intact

 a devotee touches the feet of Buddha

 the fresco work is said to be original Bagan work and are in quite a good condition

 Buddha image in niche opposite reclining Buddha

Ganesha or Maha Peinhne image in a corner near the exit

pagoda at dusk

With five receding terraces and tallest pagoda, it is a must see place.