Friday, April 8, 2016

Some terminology associated with Buddhist wats in Thailand

Since I am going to write about my visit to some Chiang mai and Bangkok wats, I thought it would be a good idea to explain the terms I would be frequently be using in my upcoming posts. I am not an authority and there might be so much more to what I write but it made me understand a little about the temple layout and the terms used.

Before I start briefly explaing there are certain rules to be followed while visiting wats that are good to know. Keep in mind that wats are not tourist destinations but are holy places. You would see such signs outside wats. It is our duty to follow them.




Wat:

Angkor Wat, Cambodia

 Wat Phra Kaew, Bangkok

Wat Pho in Bangkok

This is the term used for a temple in Buddhist countries as Thailand, Cambodia and Laos.

Inside a wat complex:

Apart from the prayer building or hall, there are monks quarters, assembly halls, ordination hall, dining hall, library, sometimes a school. There might also be a bodhi tree or a sala tree, all associated with the life of Buddha.
Let me try to explain each term.

Viharn or Vihan or Wiharan (Assembly hall):



Viharn or Wiharn is an assembly hall. It comes from the word vihara and always faces east as this was the direction Buddha faced at the time of enlightenment. This hall has images of Buddha and is used for meditation purposes, prayers and preaching services. A wat may have more than one viharn.
One important feature of a vihan is that it has entrances on the four cardinal directions.

Ubosoth:



Ubosoth or bot is the ordination hall for the monks and is one of the most important part of the temple. This means that the new monks take vows or get indoctrined here to enter the life of a monk.
It looks very similar to a viharn but this is mainly used for ceremonies or rituals associated with monk's lives. Another differntiating feature from a vihan is that it has only one entrance.

If the ubosoth does not have a Buddha image, it may be closed for public entry.

Sign outside ubosot in Wat Sri Suphon

Some wats do not permit the entry of women into their ubosoth as you can see above.

Sema stones:



a sema stone at Wat Yaichai Mongkhon, Ayutthya

Sema or Sima taken from Sanskrit word which means a boundary. There are eight such stones around an ubosoth. This is bht boundary of ubosoth and mark the sanctity of this place. A ninth one however is put under the main Buddha image at the time of construction.

Chedi:


Chedi or stupa comes from the word Chaitya. It is a reliquary tower and represents Mount Meru, the sacred mythical mountain which in Hinduism, Buddhism and also Jainism is the center of all worlds, may it be physical or spiritual. A chedi contains a holy relic, or ashes of a king or monks or even images of Buddha enshrined inside.

The name of the wat  gets linked to the relic which is enshrined there. It is common to hear Phra or Sri precede the name of a wat.

Phra: means holy or sacred, a title befor a monk or a wat. So any place or person which is holy has Phra before the name. Examples: Wat Phra Singh

Sri or Si: Majesty as Wat Sri Suphon

Phra That: When this is added to a wat, then that place has a holy relic, ie associated with Buddha. It may be a tooth, hair, bone. Example: Wat Phra That Doi Suthep

Mahathat (or Mahat in Sanskri) : maha: Great. So a wat containing a great holy relic has sthis preceding its name . Example: Wat Mahathat Yuwaratrangsarit.

Prang:


Prang in Wat Chaiwatthanaram, Ayutthya

Prang is a central tower with a soft tapering top. It was influenced by Khmer architecture and you come across many wats with a prang in Ayutthya. Wat Arun in Bangkok also displays a prang.
Prang has an entrance on one side.

Hor Rakhang:

Rakhang or bell tower has a huge bell inside. The clang of this bell summons the monks to their daily activities.

Sala tree:



One of the addition to a wat is Sala tree. Also known as canon ball tree, this tree is important as Lord Buddha was born under a Sala tree in Lumbini on a full moon day in the month of Vishakha. A Ashoka pillar (circa 300 BC) stands today at the place of his birth in Lumbini.

Bodhi tree or Bo tree:


This tree is held in high esteem in Buddhism. Lord Buddha attained enlightenment or Nirvana meditating under this tree in Bodh Gaya.
The tree in a wat will have a platform on which is a seated Buddha. There may be monks also near it.

Hor trai:
This is the library in a wat complex where Buddhist scriptures are kept.

Mondop or Mandapa:


It is a square pavilion with a spired and tapering roof. It is intricately carved and contains a Buddhist script or an image of Buddha.

Chofah:



Chofah are spiral tapering structures on the roof. They signify the head of Garuda, the mount of Lord Vishnu. They are very typical of a Thai and Cambodian wat and lend a aritistic beauty to the wat. I have made arrows to show them clearly. 

Another important feature is that the tail of chofah is said to symbolise serpent or naag. In mythological terms, Garuda amd serpent cannot stay together and are enemies of each other, but only in a wat can they exist in complete harmony with each other.

Naga or Naag:



Naga in Wat Oomong

On either side of a steps leading to chedi or entrance to a viharna are mystical beings referred to as naag.
Buddha after enlightenment, sat under a tree. It started pouring so Muchalinda, the serpent spread out its hood to form an umbrella over Gautam Buddha.

The pit at Wat Jed Yod

The pit above signifies the pond where the serpent lived.

Naag or naga at entrance to Wat Doi Suthep

Sometimes the naag has mirrors and shiny stones- the purpose is to shoo away the evil spirits who may come to disturb devotees during meditation. They would look at themselves on the shiny surface, get scared and go away.

Dharma (Dhamma) chakra:



Dharma chakra in Wat Doi Suthep

Dharma chakra or the wheel of law is one of Buddha's symbols. The eight spokes signify following the "eight fold path".
It may stand by itself or sometimes is flanked by two deers on either side, a very common site in wats in Nepal. In the above picture it has chofah on either side.

There is definitley much more than what I cover here but even the knowledge about these terms helped me understand a little about the wats I visited.


Chinese fan napkin folding

Another napkin folding which I liked was at the Chinese restaurant again at Conrad, Bangkok. It was the Chinese fan. Looking at my intrigued expression and unfolding the napkin, the girl brought a fresh napkin and demonstrated the folding to me.

I hope I am able to properly and clearly put in the steps.


You need a well starched full sized cotton napkin.


Fold the napkin in half, put a crease there so that the demarcation is clear. It helps to press the crease with a hot iron.


Bring the two sides to meet at the center crease. You should be having three folds now.


Fold the napkin in half and divide each side into three parts. You should now be having six parts.


Start folding in a fan manner till you finish.


Hold one end and you should see something like the picture on top.


Now, you need to hold the side where you can see two flaps.


Pull the flap on your side towards you like in the above picture.


Do the same on reverse side. I have put arrows to indicate the directions of pull.


Press the sides together and you have something like this.


You have two flaps in the form of triangle on either side, tuck them inside.


Lay your napkin on top of a plate and it will spread by itself.


Monday, April 4, 2016

Wat Chedi Luang, Chiang Mai

Wat Chedi Luang Wora Viharn translates to "large chedi" and was built by King Saen Muang Ma to enshrine the relics of his father Ku Na. The chedi which started in 1385 finished by 1402, work being carried on after his death by later kings.

The chedi when completed was the largest chedi in Chiang Mai measuring 85 meters in height and 44 meters at its base. There are four niches at the top and in each sits an image of Buddha. In 1468, the famous emerald Buddha was installed in the eastern side and remained there for almost 100 years. An earthquake hit the spire of this chedi in 1545, severely damaging and reducing the height to present 60 meters.

A brief history about Emerald Buddha:
I would be mentioning emerald Buddha many times so I thought why not give a little history of its origin and its long journey.

The Emerald Buddha made of jade is just 1 foot and 7 inches. Green in Thai is emerald hence the name "Emerald Buddha" commonly known as Phra Kaeo Morakot.

It was made in 43 B.C. in Pataliputra (now Patna) which was the  capital of Magadh kingdom in India. Nagasena made the image in jade and it remained there for almost 300 years. To protect it from a civil war, it was sent to Ceylon ( Sri Lanka). Being there for 200 years, a request was sent by the King of Pukam (now Bagan in Myanmar) granting the permission to give it to them with the purpose of spreading Buddhism there.

The image was sent by sea and on way was hit by a storm. The wreckage landed in Kampuchea (Cambodia) where because of a flood, the jade statue was sent to a town in Angkor Kingdom. Thais attacked Angkor in 1432 and took the Emerald Buddha away to Ayyuthya, capital of Thai Kingdom then.

From Ayyuthya, it reached Chiang Rai by 1391 after being at Wachira Prakan Kingdom ( Kamphaeng Phet in central Thailand). The ruling king plastered and hid it in a stupa.  A lightening struck Chiang Rai and the image was exposed. Since it was covered in plaster, everyone mistook it for any Buddha image and kept it in a vihara. Sometime later a part of the plaster fell off the nose of Buddha revealing a green stone inside. It remained in Chiang Rai for 32 years after which it reached Chiang Mai.

In Chiang Mai, the ruling king had given his daughter in marriage to the king of Laos. He died in 1551 without an heir so the crown prince of Laos, Prince Chaiyachetta was called to sit on the throne. An year after the King of Laos died and there was a struggle for throne. Prince Chaiyachetta had to return to Laos so he took the Emerald Buddha along with him on the pretext of providing his people a chance to worship him.  The King returned to Luang Prabang which was the capital of Laos and could not come back to Chiang Mai after that since he was replaced by some another person.
The Emerald Buddha remained in Luang Prabang for 12 years.

Burmese came to power and it was a threat to Luang Prabang so the capital was shifted to Vientiane, the present capital of Laos. It remained here till 1779 when Thailand attacked and brought the Emerald Buddha to Thailand.

Bangkok became the capital in 1782 and Buddha (Phra Kaeo Morakot) was housed and continues to be in Wat Phra Kaeo which is in the compound of royal palace.

On the left of entrance is a huge gum tree and a small building which houses the city pillar or "spirit of the city" (Sao Inthakin)
building housing the city pillar
very close to this monument are three gum trees (one in the picture above) which supports the city pillar to protect the city and till the time the tree is not cut, the city shall remain safe.
Sao Inthakin or city pillar
The city pillar (Lak Meuang) of Chiang Mai is known as Sao Inthakin. Every year in May a festival is held to honor the pillar which is inside. It is the home of city's guardian spirits.
The entrance to the shrine is flanked by yaksha or dwaarpala( temple guardians).
Wat Chedi Luang
On the right side of this monument, is the viharna which was built in 1928.
The tall black with silver pillar over which is red and gold roof gives this viharan a very royal look. A row of chandeliers hang from the roof. Straight ahead is standing Buddha (Phra Chao Attarot)
Phra Chao Attarot
Buddha stands in Abhay mudra, with one hand raised in blessing and dispelling all fear. Bhay: fear, abhay: no fear
The image made of brass and mortar is said to date 14th century. The inside has been renovated in 2007.

Chedi Luang:
Behind the impressive viharana is the huge chedi.
Elephants surround the middle platform all around. One can imagine how majestic it must have looked with elephants standing midway on the platform.
Now, just few stand, their impression showing their existence. Also notice the temple bells or hor rakhang.
The chedi has niches in all four cardinal directions with an image of Buddha placed inside each. A ramp with beautiful pair of nagas sit on either side.
intricately crafted nagas
side view
Niche on the eastern side has a replica of Emerald Buddha. It used to occupy this place before it was moved to Luang Prabang.
replica of emerald Buddha
Lanna style ornately detailed viharn

Keep walking around the chedi. Different postures of Buddha are seen on the side. One of being the famous Buddha in reclining posture.
reclining Buddha
 Buddha in "bhumisparsh mudra"
Buddha under a canopy of Muchalinda

Sala tree
Points of interest:
  • Buddha in four niches on the chedi
  • replica of Emerald Buddha in the eastern niche
  • beautiful nagas
  • reclining Buddha
  • city pillar
  • free entry