Saturday, August 19, 2017

Candi Pawon, Yogakarta, Indonesia

A very small but impressive temple is Candi Pawon between Borobudur and Candi Mendut. Some may not find it worth visiting as well.  The temple originally was not this small, it was damaged badly in an earthquake and was renovated finally in 1904.

Built during the 8th-9th century during the reign of Sailendra dyansty, the temple is located in Bajranalan village in Central Java Province.

Etymology of the temple name:
Pawon came from Per-awu-an, meaning a place where dust or ash is kept. It generally means kitchen which comes from the word awu or dust in Javanese so a place where dust or ash was kept. It also points to a place which served as a tomb or mortuary where the ashes of cremated king were kept. I might not be right but maybe that is the reason it faces west direction.


The temple base is square and has eight corners.

source: Wikipedia
The three Buddhist temples, Borobudur, Mendut and Pawon are all in a straight line. This temple is in the center with Borobudur in the east and Mendut on its west.

Candi Mendut
I passed through this temple while going to Borobudur and thought of doing it while coming back but got delayed and hence missed the chance of seeing Mendut from inside :(

The fact that these three Buddhist temples are aligned in a straight line suggests that it was supposedly a holy route with a pilgrim starting his journey towards Borobudur from west would first visit Mendut then Pawon and then pay visit to Borobudur.

 sign board outside the temple

The information board mentions that a statue of Bodhisattva was placed inside the central cell of the temple for honoring King Indra of Sailendra dynasty. Based on Karangtengah (a district) inscription of 824 AD, the statue emitted "vajra" or light so it is presumed that it was made of bronze.
According to Poerbatjaraka who was a Javanese philogist, Pawon is a part of Borobudur as there is a lot of similarity between Pawon, Mendut and Borobudur scriptures.

 west facing entrance of temple

Kaal and makar above the entrance
The kaalmukh is without any jaws.

The stairs on either side again have a kaalmukh on either side and makar in the bottom. There must have been one more makar on the other side but that too seems to have been damaged.

kaalmukh with jaws just near the entrance to temple room

makar, close up

Kubera

Kubera( God of wealth) stands in a niche on the north of entrance. There must have been one on the south of entrance which probably got damaged.

The temple walls on outside have bas reliefs.

bas relief on south of temple

bas relief on the north side of temple

back of temple


The bas reliefs are the same all around with a Kalpavriksh or Kalpataru (कल्पतरु), (wish yielding tree) flanked by Kinnar and Kinnaris (half bird and half human). Near the tree are two flying celestial beings.

On top of the tree is a pitcher containing the elixir of life with supposedly green leaves in it.
On the sides are Boddhisattava and Tara.

There are two vents above the bas relief, probably meant for ventilation of inner chamber.
The inner chamber contains absolutely nothing so can it also be hypothesized that the central chamber served as a place for exhuming of the King and the vents served as an outlet for smoke?

The roof of the temple has five dagobas or stupas. A large dagoba with four small ones around. As with other temples of the area, this temple too is made with the black volcanic rocks.

The temple does not attract a lot of tourists but if you have time, it is worth a visit.

Entrance ticket:
3,500 IDR (Indonesian Rupiah)


2 comments:

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  2. the structures that have been standing for such a long time makes the man look significant

    ReplyDelete

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