Thatbyinnyu Phaya, Bagan

Thatbyinnyu was built by Sithu I (Alaungsithu), grandson of Kyansittha, so it must be between 1113 and 1167. This was the first time an attempt to make a floor above was made which reflects the architectural and artistic creativity at that time.
Thatbyinnyu translates to "omnescience of Buddha" which means knowing and seeing thoroughly.

The white colored temple is situated very close to Ananda and Gawdawpalin and is Bagan's tallest temple with a height of 200 feet. We can see the structural similarities and multi-storey construction in Sulamani (1183), Htilominlo (1211) and Gawdawpalin (early thirteenth century) which were built much later.

temple as seen from west direction

south-eastern part of old city wall

southern face of temple

Thatbyinnyu is located just inside the south-eastern corner of the old city wall. The crumbled wall can still be seen.
Almost a square structure, the portico on the east side protrudes a little outside. It is also the main entrance. Again a similarity with temples constructed later in which the eastern portico juts out a little. as can be clearly seen on the right of picture above.

shops and eatries on the way

walking towards the main entrance from east.

entrance from eastern side

Special features about this temple:

• Thatbyinnyu is the talllest temple in Bagan.
• It was the first attempt on making more than one floor
• the temple was used not only as a place of worship but also served as a monastery and library.
• the main image is on the above floor which has huge east facing seated Buddha on lotus
• during the 1975 earthquake, Buddha's head was badly damaged and inside it, was found a dolomite Buddha, which is kept now in the Bagan museum
• it is said that the temple was never consecrated
• the terraces have empty indentations for Jataka tales

 entrance to temple

Flame-like arched doors and windows give an ethereal effect to temple. Both storeys have receding terraces with stupas on corners. The stupa on top has a hti.

In the center of flamed pediments are seated on a pedestal image of Buddha.

seated Buddha on a pedestal on pediment

The corners of pediments are decorated with makars.

door guardians at entrance

The main entrance from eastern portico has a stairway guarded by guardians on its either side going up to the storey above.

A small image of sitting Buddha has been kept in front of the staircase as no one is permitted to go up after the 1975 earthquake.

The stairs from grilled gate goes to the floor above where a golden image of Buddha seated on lotus is kept.

donation box

corridor with Buddha images, straight ahead is the north entrance

A circumambulatory corridor runs with four entrances in four directions. Each entrance has image of seated Buddha.

image facing north direction

The temple looks quite bare in contrast to Sulamani and Htilominnlo which have murals on walls.

On carefully looking at the pictures after I returned home and started writing this post, did I see some traces of inscription (like in the picture above).

Similarly, I thought the temple was bare and did not have any fresco which was a part of temple architecture at that time, but on observation, I see some fresco work above an image of Buddha. Probably, during the restoration work, the work got unknowlingly white washed :(

image facing west entrance

a serene image of Buddha in Bhumisparsh mudra

another passage with Buddha images going towards south

image in corridor walking towards south direction

south facing image

seated Buddha images in alcoves in three directions

"Wish fulfill Buddha" inside glass

 side view of temple

The side view gives the height of temple. There are stupas on all corners.

The temple was constructed in such a way that it has windows on both levels. This permits enough natural light to enter the temple. Surprisingly, my camera did not need any artificial light.

  a girl making a sand painting, covered her head with a hat to prevent hot sun

It is a common sight to see young boys and girls making and selling sand paintings.

Guyojo or Tally Pagoda, on the side

Ananda Phaya's shikhar is seen between the trees. The small structure on the side is Guyojo or tally Pagoda as it was used as away to tally of how many bricks were used in the construction of temple. For every 10,000 bricks used, one brick was used in making this small structure.

The temple was badly damaged in the 1975 earthquake and also again in 2016.