Hoan Kiem Lake and Ngoc Son temple, Hanoi

Anyone visiting old quarters in Hanoi, cannot miss seeing the lake with green shimmering water. Its an ideal evening stroll and on weekends, the whole area is a walking place.

In the center of lake is the Turtle tower, a significant landmark in the center of Hoan Kiem lake. It probably was the place for the King to rest when out fishing.

During the French occupation, the revolutionary flag of Vietnam was hoisted on top of this tower which reminded people to fight against the French inspiring unity and patriotism in them.

turtle island in the memory of the Divine turtle

History of turtle island:

• During the 15th century Vietnam was under threat of Ming invaders from North. To face them, the Golden Turtle God, Kim Qui, gave a sword to King Le Loi. The King fought the battle and chase away the invaders.
• After sometime, the King was boating in the lake when suddenly the Turtle God surfaced asking the King to return the sword.
• The lake which was earlier called Luc Thuy lake (green water lake) was renamed Hoan Kiem lake or the "lake of the returned sword".
• "Rua" or turtle island is associated with sword lake. Situated just 0.6 meters above the lake level it was called "Quy Son" or Turtle mountain. It is a very simple structure with three floors.

History of Ngoc Son temple:

The Ngoc Son temple is located on a mound on the Hoan Kiem Lake or the Sword Lake. It was built at the same time as Bao An pagoda. It underwent many changes in its name and more additions.

• When King Lý Thái Tổ (his statue stands in front of Hoa Phong tower) moved the capital to Thang Long to Hoa Lư in 1010-1225, he named it Ngoc Tuong.
• During the Tran Dynasty ( 1225-1400), the temple worshiped heroic figures who sacrificed their lives to fight against the Mongols. The name of temple was changed to Ngoc Son.
  
• In 1428-1789, during Le Dynasty, Lord Trinh Giang, who was the ruler at that time, constructed Thuy Khanh Palace on the temple grounds. The palace was destroyed by the end of century.
• Mr. Tin Trai who was a philanthropist, using part of old foundation of Thuy Khanh Palace, constructed the Ngoc Son pagoda. Soon, the temple collapsed and the pagoda was given over to a charity association by Mr. Tin Trai's son.
• the charity association removed the bell tower, placed the statue of Văn Xương Đế or Wenchang Dijun who is the god of literature, fame and fortuneand changed the name to Ngoc Son temple.
• In 1865, scholar Nguyen Van Sieu repaired the temple, built the Huc bridge (red colored bridge), Dai Nghien (ink bowl)
• the temple now worships Van Xuong De Quan who is the God of prosperity, and hero Tran Hung Dao who led the army to victory against the Mongols.

temple from a distance, red Huc bridge

The three passage gates (Tam Quan):

To enter the temple, people have to cross three gates or passages.

First gate:

The first gate which we pass has Chinese inscriptions on either side. The letters in red on the right side (Phuc) means happiness and (Loc) on the left meaning prosperity.

entrance to temple

(Phuc), on right side means happiness and (Loc) on the left means prosperity.

entrance ticket

Thap but or the pen tower:

As soon as you enter the temple, on your left is the pen tower. It was built by Nguyen Van Sieu (1854-1872) who was a Vietnamese teacher and cultural researcher in the 19th century. He renovated the Ngoc Son temple, bridged Huc to temple and also built Pen tower and the ink bowl.

Pen tower or Thap But and a nearby temple

Pen tower( Thap But) stands on a pile of stones of Doc Ton Mountain which is 4 meters high and is 12 meters in diameter.

The 28 meter high tower is five storeys. On the first three storeys, red engraving saying "Ta Thanh Thien" is written in red which means "writing in the blue sky".

The 0.9 meter nib along with the handle of the pen is upside down, that is pointing towards the sky. Since the tower is dedicated to literature and poetry, children visit and pray before sitting for exams.

Very close to Pen Tower is a small shrine, "Son than", temple of mountain god. It may amuse anyone as to how a mound of stones be a mountain!

But, according to Feng Shui a high land is a mountain, be it small or big.

offerings at the base of temple

 

At the foot of this temple is a small stone stele with five characters, "Thai son thach cam duong" written on them. It keeps ghosts and evil spirits away so they do not enter the temple.

Second gate:

The second gate is colorfully decorated by dragon on one side and a tiger on the other. Both these animals are a sign of stability.

the dragon on the other side of second gate

On the other side are two cranes on one side and a carp on the other one looking at moon's reflection. Both animals are symbols of longevity.

nghê

The mythological animal, nghe sits on top of pillars.

Third gate:

Looking up on the third gateway, is a white scroll with a quote in Chinese by Nguyen Van Sieu, person who renovated the temple in 1864.

The scroll with 64 words is flanked by orange colored bats. Bats symbolize happiness. One bat is seen below the scroll.

ink bowl(Dai Nghien)

If a pen is in the temple, an ink bowl has to be somewhere.  So, on top of the third gate, is the ink bowl in the shape of half a peach, cut horizontally.  The length of ink bowl is 0.97 meter, 0.8 meter wide and 0.3 meter high.  It has a circumference of 2 meters.  It is supported on 3 toads, something like resting on a tripod. It is said that on 5th day of lunar calendar in May, the shadow of pen tower falls on the ink bowl so that the pen takes in the ink!

view from other side of gate

Huc bridge or the Morning Sunlight Bridge:

Soon after the third gate is a red colored wooden Huc bridge connects the mainland and temple.

Huc bridge

As already mentioned, it was built by Nguyen Van Sieu.  The red painted wooden bridge is 15 spans or 3.42 meters and has 32 pillars.

 

Fourth gate:

After crossing the Huc Bridge is the last gate before entering temple. This is Dac Nguyet Lau or the

Moon Gazing Pavilion. It is the gate which leads to Ngoc Son temple. On left side of the gate is a turtle and right side has a dragon horse.

Dac Nguyet pavilion or the Moon Contemplation pavilion

Both symbols, the dragon-horse and turtle stand for protection.

horse on the right side

The dragon-horse (Long Mã Hà Đồ ) is a mythical winged horse with a dragon head. Also known as Qilin in Chinese mythology.

 

Symbolism of Long Ma: Long Ma carries the eight symbols for protection, guidance, strength, movement, abundance, good luck, freedom, and power.

It brings prosperity and good fortune for owners, removes hurdles in careers, so people keep it homes, offices.

In the center of dragon-horse, are the eight symbols for yin yang repel evil spirits.

 

Kim Quy or the mythical golden turtle who rose from the waters of Hoan Kiem lake to take back the golden sword from King Le.

Turtle represents longevity and sustainability. Here, it carries a book and a sword.

gate from the temple side

joss paper burning furnace

the temple and incense burner

The temple is built according to Chinese character with three sections.

outside room

The outermost section is kowtowing that is for paying respect.

Van Xuong altar  with bronze statues

The next inside section worships Van Xuong.The temple is decorated with colorful decorations.

The next inner room(pictures not permitted) in the temple is dedicated to King Tran Hung Dao who is placed on a pedestal, and the innermost room has a statue of Amitabha, the holy Buddha.

Tran Ba pavilion or communal house

This pavilion was built at the same time (1865-1866) with the But tower and the ink stand monument.

Tran Ba means against waves and storms. It has two-tiered roof and stands on eight supporting pillars.

turtle room

 

information board

 

 information on stone stele

The first turtle in the glass cabinet is the "old turtle" who died in 1967. It is 2.1 meters long, 1.2 meters wide and is 250 kgs. Found in 1968, the turtle was said to be 500 years old. This gives some credence to the legend about the turtle and the sword of King Le Thai To in the 15th century.

 

 

The golden turtle who lend his sword to King Le Loi is in the second glass cabinet, died on 19th January, 2016. It weighed 169 kgs.

 

 To preserve the turtles, they are kept in an air conditioned room.

 

huge bonsai trees in front of temple

 

drinks on sale while exiting the temple

 

 koi pond

a baby turtle under the Huc bridge, a descendant of the golden turtle!

It is a common sight to see paper craft in Vietnam. After visit to the temple, go around the lake, relax on a bench enjoying their local ice creams in different flavors. It is temple worth a visit.

 

Timings: 8 AM to 6 PM

entrance fee: 30,000 VND