Saturday, September 3, 2016

Flavors of Cambodia

"What? In Cambodia for five years?" "How did you survive there?" " Is'nt that a war torn country?" These are such questions which are bombarded on us when we mention that it was our home for five years. A peace loving country which smiling faces Cambodia still bears the scars of the wounds inflicted during the Khmer Rouge from 1975-79 and effects continuing till late 90s.

But, as I leave Cambodia, which has been my home for the past five years, I travel down memory lane.
There is so much to see and learn here.
The country with a glorious past, followed by a gory one has come a long way with people determined to overcome all the hurdles and come neck to neck with its neighbouring countries.

I have witnessed a lot of change specially in Phnom Penh, the capital city. The sky line used to be clear a few years ago and I enjoyed viewing Mekong in the distance from my 8th floor apartment. It was fun to see fireworks lite up the sky for 20 minutes from 7 pm to 7.20 pm on important events such as the King's or Queen's birthday, Independence day, water festival and so on. But with the economic boom, its a sad reality that the old beautiful villas which were an important part of Cambodia's character are being razed to ground to make place for boxy high rise buildings.

view from our balcony 5 years earlier

the present view with 4 multistoried buildings from one side of our balcony

the skyline has completely changed

One thing I really appreciate and like is the Cambodians preserving their culture so well.

the place of ancestors


It is common to see the place for ancestors in every house. Every morning food is offered to them.

morning alms time

Monks can be seen early mornings with umbrella over their head to beat the heat and going from one place to another for  alms.

Market place:
Most of the Cambodia cuisine consists of plenty of vegetables along with some meat. Fresh produce is still preferred, with maret places opening early in the mornings. People throng such places taking back lots of greens. The meal is healthy with a soup consisting of bean sprouts, plenty of flavored greens, pieces of meat, noodles. It is a common sight to see people by the street having a bowl of it for breakfast or lunch.

fresh chicken in market

sea food

Most of the fish comes from river, Mekong being its major source.

greens ready to be picked

some imported fruits


A typical market place will  not only have food but also have lanes for clothes, shoes, cosmetics, groceries.

The economic boom:
If you thought this is Cambodia with small shops then it also has another side. With lots of money, people seem to be drifting from their tradidional healthy food to pizzas, burgers etc.
When I moved to my present country in Barbados, some one was surprised as to how we lived there for 5 years. People still think it to be a war torn country. But, a visit to that place will change your opinion very quickly. On the roads are expensive cars like Hummer, Rolls Royce, Lamborgini, Ferrari apart from Mercedes and BMWs.

 beautiful villa converted into a restaurant

Chatime makes way into Phnom Penh

the biggest chain of coffee shops in Cambodia. It is not surprising, you see Brown in every street. A hot popular place for people of all ages.
With development came the opening of Aeon mall and everyone thronged to that place. There is local cuisine on the ground level and world dining on the upper floor. Apart from that you have shops for everything from perfumes to clothes....

Aeon mall, favorite for people specially on weekends

imported fruits make an entry

sour sop and dragonfruit



 inside the mall



The food court on the ground floor is an excellent place to sample local food. It is hygienically prepared and at a very resonable price.




So much has changed in Phnom Penh and the city is fast developing like its neighboring  capital, Bangkok, fast leaving behind its charm of traditional values.


Monday, August 29, 2016

Wat Mahathat, Ayutthya

Wat Mahathat, meaning the "wat of great" was built around  1374 by King Borommarachathirat of Suphannaphum dynasty during the early Ayutthya rule. It was an important wat for the holy relics enshrined and as a religious center but also as a royal monastery and seat of Thai Buddhist monks.
Since it was close to the royal palace, it was also a center for royal ceremonies and celebrations.
King Ramesuan, son of U Thong expanded the wat in 1384 when he was not the king and was a monk here.

model of the wat

one such existing chedi
This is one of the most photographed picture. The head of Buddha made of sandstone must have fallen accidentally on the sacred fig ( peepal) tree by plunderers. The branches and roots over a period of years grew around the head enfolding it.

Royal Vihar or Sermon hall:
The royal vihar is located in the east and just has a platform now.

signs of columns which once stood there
viharn platform with south wall
south wall from the other side
This is a square balustrade or square flower- shaped balustrade. It has rectangular holes which run perpendicular to the wall. This style was often in practice in early-middle Ayutthya period.
There are many  vihars in the complex. Above, a satellite vihar with a sitting Buddha.
Many other images have been severed 

Main pagoda or prang or central tower:
The main prang was said to be 47 meters high and made of brick and mortar. From the 16th century till early 19th century, the prang fell and restored off and on. By 1911, it had come to its present state.

There are four towers in the inter-cardinal directions around the main prang. This architecture in Ayutthya was influenced by the Khmer architecture where the main prang is surrounded by four towers (quincux). The central main prang represents Mount Meru. Khmer architecture was influenced by Hindu beliefs.
In 1956, the Fine Arts Department found lots of treasure under the prang. This can be seen at Chao Sam Phrya Museum at Ayutthya.
base of main prang
The main prang has entrance in the four cardinal directions. Again, here it followed the religious beliefs of directions. Entrance to a Hindu temple faces east as sun rises in that direction and is said to be an auspicious direction. West is the direction of death, whereas, North is good and South is neutral.
There are stairs leading up on four sides of the prang in the four cardinal directions. This is all that remains today.

There are also four towers in the inter-cardinal directions around the main prang. This architecture in Ayutthya was also influenced by the Khmer architecture where the main prang is surrounded by four towers. The central main prang represents Mount Meru.
seated Buddha in front of one of the entrance to the main prang

Ubosoth or the Ordination hall:
Just next to viharn is ubosoth.The sema stones can still be seen surrounding the hall.

part of the ubosoth
satellite chedis
another chedi
gallery of headless Buddha or Rabieng Khot
It was a part of architecture during the Ayutthya period, where there was a gallery of Buddha statues or Rabieng Khot facing the main chedi or pagoda. Here, most of them have been dismembered.
Such images of Buddha are a common sight :(
carvings on column which once stood there

In 1767, the wat was completely destroyed by the invasion of Burmese army and till  restoration started it was prone to immense looting.

Entrance fee:
50 Baht
timings: 8:30 am to 5:00 pm

Decorum board:

This board is seen but not observed by tourists in all the sites we visited. It is sad that inspite of this people climb up the walls and places which should be preserved.

You might be interested in Wat Sri Sanphet, AyutthyaWat Yaichai Mongkol, AyutthyaWat Chaiwatthanaram, AyutthyaWat Rachaburana, Ayutthya

Monday, August 22, 2016

Wat Sri Sanphet,Ayutthya

Wat Phra Sri or Si Sanphet is one of the most beautiful in Ayutthya. Most of the structures around it have been destroyed but the three chedis still stand majestically.
view of the three chedis from the northeast end

Historical background:
In 1350, King U Thong, who also built the Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon built the royal palace where the wat stands now. This had three wooden buildings. He made Ayutthya his capital and was bestowed with the title of Ramathibodhi I.

In 1448, King Borom Trailokanath who was the eighth king of Ayutthya period and one of the greatest kings credited to bringing a lot of reforms to Thai bureaucracy, built a new royal palace and converted the existing one into a religious site to be used solely by kings or royalty. No monks resided there. They were invited only on special occassions.

Chaiyachettha, later known as Ramathibodhi II, son of Borom Trailoknath, built two chedis in 1492 to enshrine the ashes of his father and his elder brother King Borommaracha III.

In 1530, King Borommaracha IV built the third chedi to enshrine the ashes of his father, King Ramathibodhi II.

Special features of the chedis:
There are some features which are different and deviate from the normal chedi architecture during that time.
  • The three chedis are identical and stand on a platform.
  • They are built in Sukhothai style which was very deeply influenced by Sri Lankan bell shaped style of architecture.
  • Each has a mondop on its east side. They probably had Buddha feet in them once but are just a empty mound now.
  • The chedis have entrance at each of their four directions. If you look at the picture above, you would see porches jutting out on four sides. Each has a small replica of chedi on its top.
  • A small Buddha image is placed in three side in the porches.
  • There is a set of pillars above the harmika (square structure above the dome) supporting the pinnacle on top.
  • Usually there is a gallery which surrounds the chedis which has images of Buddha facing the chedis but here, the images face outside, away from chedis.
In 1499, King Ramatibodhi II built a viharn called Viharn Luang meaning royal. The next year he ordered a huge image of Buddha to be built which took three years to finish. The 16 meter bonze image was gilded with 343 kgs of gold. It is said to be one of the most beautiful images in the world. The image was called Phra Si Sanphetdayan, meaning "Sacred majesty all seeing or knowing".
Over a period of years smaller chedis were made to house the ashes of royal family.
more chedis

an image of Buddha facing Viharn Luang
remains of viharn
a lone chedi
back view of chedis
Impressions showing the positions of images of Buddha.
Viharn Prasat Phra Narai
In mid 1600, King Narai built a viharn on the west side, in the opposite direction of Viharn Luang. It was named Prasat Phra Narai after the king,
dismembered images in front of a chedi
 ubosoth with sema stones still there
an image of Buddha faces the chedi
In 1767 Burma attacked Ayutthya, the place was ransacked. Buddha images in wats were dismembered. Viharn Luang was burnt thus melting the gold from the image of Buddha, Phra Si Sanpetdayan. Gold was looted and taken away leaving behind pieces of bronze.

In the late 18th century, King Rama I of Rattanakosin period enshrined the damaged image at Chedi Sampetdayan in Wat Pho in Bangkok.
Inspite of these instructions for visitors throughout, it is a shame that we do not protect the heritage of any country.
Taking a picture of themselves is more important!
Entrance ticket:

Since the wat is a part of Ayutthaya Historical Park, there is an entrance fee of 50 Baht

Timing:
0800 hours to 1700 hours

You might be interested in Wat Mahathat, Ayutthya where I proceed next.