Quan Su Pagoda, Hanoi

Very close to Hoa Lo prison is the Quan Su Pagoda. It is easily recognizable with its yellow and red tiled roof. Also known as the Truc Lam Quan Su, it is one of the oldest temples in Hanoi.

History:

During the Le Dynasty in the 15th century, Champa kingdom and Laos sent their ambassadors to pay respects to Dai Viet, that is the Le Dynasty. Emperor Le Thanh Tong got the place constructed where these ambassadors could stay. The temple at this time was known by its earlier name, Truc Lam Quan Su.

A temple was also built where they could all pray during their period of stay. This pagoda is the Quan Su pagoda with Buddha as the main deity.

At the end of Le Dynasty, when many pagoda were burnt down, this pagoda somehow managed to save itself.

In the 17th century, it was converted into a military warehouse, storing ammunition and weapons. The pagoda started to be called "Quan Su" meaning the "military mandarin".

It underwent lot of renovations and was finally opened to public in 1822. It became important due to its miraculous powers of being unhurt.

In 1934, the Vietnamese Buddhist Association of Northern region was established and Quan Su Pagoda was made the headquarters.

In 1942, the pagoda had a major renovation for its designs.

 

Architecture of temple:

main gate to temple

The main entrance to temple is through a wooden triple-arched gate which is not open to visitors. In the middle is the bell floor where hangs a big bronze bell.

There is a small entrance on the side. The red roof is slanting with a red tiles. The corners arch upwards.

The architecture is a blend of Vietnamese and Chinese.

entrance to temple

With bonsai trees on sides, 11 steps lead to inside of temple

 

 sides of stairs leading to main prayer hall

praying in front of pagoda

Roof of pagoda is decorated with a moon surrounded by flaming .....

main altar

The inside of temple is painted in red and gold symbolizing prosperity, happiness and good fortune. There are large gold plated images in the altar.

There are three tiers of the placement of images in the main altar.

• Topmost tier: has images of three times Buddha, of the past, present and future represented by Dipankar (Buddha of the past), Shakyamuni (of present) and Maitreya (Buddha of future)
• The bronze image is said to date back to 17th century.
  

• Below this tier, is a huge image of Amitabha Buddha flanked by Avalokiteshwar Boddhisatva (Guanyin) and Mahasthamaprapta Boddhisattva. Mahasthamaprapta is one of the oldest boddhisattavas

• Below the central tier sits Shakyamuni Buddha flanked by Ananda and Mahakasyapa.Bell on the right of temple

On the right side of main hall, the altar has a golden image of Monk Ly Quoc Su.

He is also known as Zen Master Nguyen Minh Khong. His name was Nguyen Chi Thanh and lived in the Ly Dynasty(10th-12th century)

The right side of hall is to worship Guan Yin

offerings

In front of Guan Yin is a drum

votive paper burning furnace

inside view of main gate

bell on top of main gate

information of temple

Library, monk's quarter next to main prayer hall

The courtyard around the main hall is library, monk's quarters, a reception hall, book stall, souvenir shop

The library here is said to have largest and invaluable collection of Buddhist scriptures and documents which are used in Buddhist ceremonies and rituals.

souvenir shop

hall for holding conventions

books for sale

Annual Lantern festival:

Annual lantern festival is celebrated every year on 15th day of the Lunar New Year. The temple is decorated with plenty of lanterns.

Timings:

The pagoda opens daily from 7:30 to 11:30 AM and from 1:30 to 5:30 PM

Candi Plaosan, South temple

The first temple on right or in the east which we see is the South temple. It is so named because there is a similar temple in its north.  As I have already mentioned, southern temple was meant for bhikkhus or male monks.

South temple

8 steps lead to inside of temple

makar at the base

One  interesting feature in kaal in the temple here is that it has no lower jaw. The lintel is decorated with trailing stems and leaves

On the side above can be seen the Kinnar (arrow pointing), and down is the makar. On the side of the entrance are the images of Avalokiteshwara.

Inside the temple:

Once inside the temple, there are three rooms and it takes some time to get used to the dark. It is not easy to take pictures there.

There are six chambers in the temple, three in this level and three on the top level. But the above level is not accessible now. Two Bodhisattava on each side of an empty pedestal are in all rooms. An image of Buddha is said to be in the center but it not seen now.

In spite of being a Buddhist temple, its architecture reflects a perfect blend of Hinduism and Buddhism.

The upper level is without any images and was supposed to be sleeping chambers for monks.

Images of Bodhisattva Vajrapani and Padmapani greet you in the central shrine. The central image which is said to be of bronze is missing. All chambers have central images missing.

images in the central chamber

Bodhisattava Wajrapani or Vajrapani

Bodhisattava Padmapani in padmasana or lotus position

Chamber on the west:

Images of Bodhisatva Manjusri and Sarwaniwaranawiskambhin in the cell on left side of main chamber

Bodhisattava Manjusri

Throughout the temple, images exhibit the same sitting style. The right leg is placed over a lotus pedestal. Right hand in dyaanmudra (ध्यानमुद्रा) rests on the right knee. The left leg is bent at the knee on which rests on the left hand holding an utpala flower, a sort of water lily. Utpala is a symbol of purity.

foot on lotus pedestal

image of  Bodhisattava Sarwaniwarnanawiskambhin on right side

image of Bodhisatva Manjusri on the left

 Sarwaniwarnanawiskambhin on the right side

Relief inside the temple:

Kuwera

On right side of  Bodhisatva Manjusri, near the niche is Kuwera. Kuwera and Hariti are Buddhist tutelary couple. Kuwera is also known by the name of Yaksha Avataka or Panchika. He is god of wealth and good fortune.

Khmer king,

On the left side of room, opposite to the above relief, near Bodhisattva Sarwaniwarnanawiskambhin, are seen a couple standing, samabhanga (समभंग) pose under an umbrella.

The headdress hints at them being from Cambodia.
It is not clear which King it might represent but it is confirmed that Jayavarman II, the first King of Cambodia visited at the time when Borobudur and Prambanan were under construction. So it is quite possible that the relief depicts him.

On entering the left room, a relief depicting a King and queen in anjalimaudra facing the images is seen. The king and queen seem to sitting under a Kalpataru. Two children hold an umbrella on the sides. It is not clear which King it might represent but since the temple was built by Rikai Pikatan and Queen Sri Kahulunan, it might be them.

An empty niche with kaalmukh above and makar below on sides. Kinnars are seen on the top.
The place was for putting lamps.

Hariti

The relief just near the niche for putting lamps is of Hariti with children around her. Her hands were probably in Varamudra or blessing posture. It is said that Hariti used to eat children and was a terror but after meeting Buddha, she changed herself and became a protector of children.

Hariti is a symbol of fertility and good fortune.

In the east chamber:
Two images of Bodhisattava are seen in almost good condition.

 images of Bodhisattava Samatabhadra and Maitreya in the right chamber

Kuwera on left side of Maitreya

In this chamber also, we see Kuwera by the side of Bodhisattva Maitreya.

Bodhisattava Samatabhadra

On the right side near Bodhisattva Samatabhadra is a relief of couple with two children. Since, there is no information on relief throughout the temple, it probably depicts Hariti and Kuwera or represents queen and king under an umbrella.

Boddhisattava Samatabhadra on left side of chamber

image  of Bodhisattva Maitreya on the right side

feet rest on a lotus etched stone pedestal

The temple is built on two levels so there should be an entrance to second level. There is only one opening to the second level which is in this chamber. It is supposed that were wooden stairs leading to that level but with time they have have been damaged. Probably this is the entrance to upper level. It is said that there are no images. They were either sleeping rooms for the monks or the space was used to keep Buddhists texts.