Monday, November 12, 2018

Choeung Ek killing fields, Cambodia

In all my earlier posts, I have found great happiness in writing about the topics. But this post makes me feel depressed and I write with a heavy heart. Having lived in Cambodia for five wonderful years, I empathize with those people and also understand why they still do not want to talk about it or even now raise their voice against any thing be it political or even everyday life.

I am just going to write a little about Khmer Rouge.  Khmer Rouge, or the red Khmer which lasted from 1975-79 was led by Pol Pot and others. Pol Pot thought of making Cambodia a leading producer of rice beating China and for this he needed plenty of people to work in fields. The idea behind it may have been right but the implementation led to killings of thousands and thousands of innocent people. Anyone who had soft hands, wore spectacles, was bald was considered educated and they were the ones targeted first. It is said that the Riels (Cambodia currency) was all scattered on the streets, the government treasury all vandalized. Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia was vacated in a short time and around 2 million people were everyone asked to work on fields to produce rice. The year is rightly said to be the "year zero".

Families were separated, one in five family became a victim to one of world's worst genocide. A friend of ours said he was 9 years at that time but survived only because he lived in an isolated place and survived by eating coconuts and sea food.
Intellectuals were imprisoned in Tuol Sleng or S-21 which was originally a school, Ponyeah Yat. The name of the school was changed to Toul Svay Prey High School. From here they were transported to the killing fields as they came to be known for they were mercilessly killed here.

There are around 300 killing fields throughout Cambodia and round 2 to 2.5 million people were killed during that time, many due to starvation, illnesses.
The closest killing field near Phnom Penh is Choeung Ek, which is 12 kilometers away. Around 17,000 people were killed here.
The place was a beautiful longan orchard and you still see fruits on the trees. Around 1980, after Khmer Rouge ended, a person noticed some bones in the area and that is how the place was discovered. It was shocking to see so many human bones and skulls.



the monument for victims
On entering the site, as you have paid for the ticket, you get headphones available in language of your choice. There is choice between English, Spanish, Chinese. Moving forward, the place is marked by numbers and you play that number which gives an information regarding that spot. You put on your headphones and the audio starts.

The victims on the pretext of being released were brought at night to these killing fields. No one suspected anything.




To save on ammunition, many ways were adopted to kill the victims. One was using the stem of palm tree, Borassus flabellifer. The stem has spines on it and severing a neck like a serrated knife was easy. All were then thrown into pits.  DDT, Dicholoro diphenyl trichloride, a strong chlorine based pesticide was scattered over the bodies to get rid of the stench after bodies start rotting and also kill those who still had some life in them. I shudder to think about all this.

Loud music was played on speakers to stop the moans and screams of people from going outside.

Most of the signs are self explanatory.

one of the pits unearthed
There are plenty of such pits which were unearthed which revealed mass killings.




Mass grave of more than 100 victims of children and women. majority of them naked





Mass grave of 166 victims without heads

longan trees with fruits

One of the pits which contained the graves, arrow pointing
There are many more like this throughout the place.



heads kept inside the monument

museum
Museum gives the whole time line and history of Khmer Rouge and must be visited by every visitor.

Pictures representing the torture:

people being ushered into vans from the torture center

van on its way to killing fields

man being tortured

 bodies thrown into pits

Still every year after the area gets flooded bones surface to the top. On May 3, 2005, an agreement was signed not to disturb the remains of people still buried.

Thursday, October 25, 2018

Prasat Bayon faces, Siem Reap

I do not know if that it is there but I have seen different moods and styles of architecture in the faces at Bayon temple. Honestly, I never noticed this when I was visiting the temple but while writing for my post and going through the pictures, I saw the differences.
Do they reflect different time periods or different craftsmanship or did they signify any particular reason? I do not know.

Different faces and expressions:
 serene expression, peaceful smile
 peaceful smile, eyes slanting going upwards and half open
In the upper level of temple, expressions and features on face are different. The face tower stand side by side but the features are different.
On the right hand side, the eyes are closed and lips are different, whereas the face on the left has slanting eyes half open and a broad smile. Both faces have ornaments on their head and ears and a broad nose.

closed eyes, broad nose, lips curving upwards
broad nose, curve of lips and facial expression different
broad nose, curve of lips and facial expression different
eyes looking downwards, chiseled nose, heavy ornaments of head
face here is so different, broad nose, straight lips, lacks the serenity on face
slanting closed eyes, ornate jewelry, peaceful smile
Again in the above pictures both have ornaments but the smile is different and the one on right has a raised structure on its forehead where the arrow points. The structure of the face too is different. The left picture has elongated face while the picture on right has more rounded face.

the smile is different, curves downwards, forehead has a raised structure where the arrow points. The face is round and has a broad nose, half closed eyes.
The oval structure on forehead, does it depict the third eye or is supposed to be an ornament?

The above face is very different having the absence of any ornaments, lacking the typical Khmer smile. The face has a square jaw and seems to be unfinished
faces stand adjacent to each other but the features are different. I have put a bigger picture of the two
below
eyes half open slanting upwards, beautiful smile, round face
round face, closed eyes, broad nose,
very different style of lips, broad nose, half closed eyes,  head jewelry is less
broad smile and open eyes, beautiful ornaments on ears and headgear
eyes open, round face, not much head jewelry visible
eyes closed, broad nose, upwards curving smile

closed eyes, smile on lips, broad nose
Sometimes, I think it may be the angle of picture taken or is it really so? If, I go to Bayon again maybe then I shall spend more time and minutely absorb all details.

Thursday, October 4, 2018

Prasat Bayon, Siem Reap

One of the irresistible and unique temple in the Angkor area is Bayon. 1500 meters away from the South gate stands this extraordinary temple. The smiling faces give an ethereal aura to the whole place. After seeing Ta Prohm, we headed towards Bayon. One could imagine how beautiful it must have looked so many years back. The monument now with fallen stones and towers with still stand majestically with smiling faces . It is the main temple in Angkor Thom.

Some history and facts of the temple:
  • After the Cham army attacked Cambodia and destroyed Yashodharapur in 1177, Jayavarman VII ousted the Chams in 1178 and proclaimed himself as the ruler of the Khmer empire.
  • He was the last great King of Angkor who ascended the throne of Angkor in 1181. He was a strong profounder of Mahayana Buddhism and also got a huge 3.6 meter tall of Buddha erected in the central tower. His wives were a big source of encouragement to him who themselves were devout Buddhists.
  • He made Angkor Thom (great city) his capital and enclosed the city with a wall.
  • Bayon was built almost in the center of city of Angor Thom.
  • The temple was originally named Jayagiri (जयगिरि) or the "mountain of victory". After French colonized the country they started calling it Banyan temple under the assumption that Buddha attained Nirvana under that tree! Though it is the Bodhi tree or Peepal tree under which he attained enlightenment.
  • The word banyan got distorted to Bayon by the locals and that name continued.
  • Most of the temples are surrounded by walls or enclosure but Bayon does not have a moat or any outer wall.  It is situated exactly in center of the city of Angor Thom which is protected by an outer wall. It was thus built as a state temple.
  • It was built almost 100 years after Angkor Wat.
  • After his death in 1219, Indravarman II ascended the throne, he continued being a follower of Mahayana.
  • In 1243, Jayavaraman VIII became the king. He was a strong Shaivite (follower of Shiva) and the state religion shifted to Hinduism.
  • He was succeeded by his son-in-law, Sri Indravarman who was a follower of Thervada Buddhism. The temple practice thus shifted to Thervada from Hindu religious practices.
  • Many Buddha statues along with the huge 3.60 meter Buddha statue were destroyed. It was later restored and is now enshrined in Vihear Prapil Loveng in Angkor Thom.
  • The temple had 54 towers each with four faces in the cardinal directions totally to 216 faces. This is double of 108, a number considered sacred to Buddhism because he attained nirvana or enlightenment in 108th life.
  • After so many years there are just 49 towers, very few of them complete.
  • The towers are 45 meters away from each other and are 5 meters high.
  • The smile on each face with half closed eyes and a peaceful smile is compared to Mona Lisa smile and referred to as the "smile of Khmer".
South gate entrance to Angkor Thom
Angkor Thom was the city in the center of which stands Bayon.

Bayon, full view
lions guard the west entrance

east entrance to temple

dancing figures on lintel 
dancing figures
east entrance
Earlier there were 54 towers with smiling faces on all sides mounting to 200 but now only 37 remain.

South inner enclosure
There are sitting figures with folded hands under the face.
figures with folded hands under the face
The layout of Bayon is simple and consists of two square galleries which contain bas-reliefs and the central tower or sanctuary at the top which is circular. The circular central part has narrow alleys and is quite confusing. The steep stairs make it all the more difficult.
In contrast to Angkor Wat which has broad corridors, this temple has very narrow ones.

The outer gallery which is 140 meters x 160 meters has bas-reliefs from scenes portraying everyday life, battle scenes.

bas-reliefs on the outer wall of  first level
this is a scene on the eastern gallery
 bas relief showing marching Khmer army in battle between the Khmers and Chams on the eastern gallery
war scene
war procession
war procession
war procession
war procession
Dancing Apsaras:
Apsaras have always been an important part in any Khmer temple. The style and architecture differs with different periods.

This is a very typical Bayon architecture showing three apsaras dancing on top of lotus. The formation is almost triangular with central figure being bigger than the two on its sides.
the style is same but hand movements are different

all three apsaras dancing on lotus
The corridors are open and do not have any roof on them. This gives a perfect opportunity to see and photograph them clearly.
Here, on a column, the apsaras are dancing side by side beside lotus buds.
columns lie on ground

 two apsaras dance side by side on lotus

different style of apsara form
apsara figures on doorway
Third or the topmost level:
This level brings one very close to the smiling faces of Avalokiteshwara. and is one of the most attractive feature in this temple.  It is slightly cramped and gives an impression of its being added as an after thought so as to fit in a limited space.

topmost level or the central sanctuary
The passage has a seven hooded naag balustrade.
All towers have a full bloomed lotus on top and below are four faces in four cardinal directions. 
The temple's condition makes it difficult to assess the original number of faces on towers. But it is thought to have total of 200 faces. Most of the towers have four faces on all four sides, some have three and one tower which has only one face for reasons unknown.
Looking closely one might see different expressions on the face.

broad smile and open eyes, beautiful ornaments and headgear

The four faces depict the omnipresent Avalokiteshwar or Avalokiteshvara. Infact, it has been a matter of debate where the faces represent Avalokiteshwar or Lokeshwar meaning "God of the world".

It is also said to represent Jayavarman VII himself.  Jayavarman VII considered himself as Devaraja (देवराजा ), meaning the "God-King". Here, a king is not only the head of state but is also considered an embodiment of God. In that case, the faces may represent either of the two or may also mean Bodhisatva Avalokiteshwar and Jayavarman together as one.
There was another theory in which the faces on four sides represented Brahma but that was soon ruled out.


close up of the tower with a peaceful smile
The air is magical standing in front of the smiling tower with half closed eyes and a peaceful smile. The smile is often said to be the " Smile of Khmer".
The nose is broad reflecting Khmer features and the head sports a head gear.




Indra on three-headed Airawata
In the center is the central sanctuary
The central tower is surrounded by a ring of towers. The layout is such that the central tower is the highest and the height of towers decrease as they move outwards towards the peripheral towers. It rises 45 meters above ground.
the central tower
The central tower is surrounded by 12 towers. These towers are further surrounded by 21 towers. The towers in both enclosures have four faces on each cardinal direction.

in front of central sanctuary

There are small rooms with small windows in the center. Below the windows one can see dancing apsaras.

dancing apsaras
On the sides stand alone apsaras can be seen.
a shiva yoni in inner gallery
view from the north side
north side of north library
The libraries which are always built in pairs contain religious scriptures or are a place for monks to assemble is not clear.

ruins of Bayon
Lots of work remains to be done for full restoration of temple.

Buddha image facing the temple

Small temple in front of Bayon

With a contented smile we move to another temple.