Tuesday, January 22, 2019

Prasat Ta Prohm, Siem Reap

Ta Prohm is very different from other temples and has largely been left as it was found. Probably the moat surrounding Angkor Wat was one of the main reasons for trees not invading that area.  But here, in Ta Prom the tree roots are so deeply implanted in the structure that any maneuvering will bring the entire structure down. Scaffolding has been put at most places to hold the stones and structure from falling down. It was added to UNESCO World Heritage list in 1992.

The extensive damage to temple has been caused by roots of vegetation especially strangler fig tree and  silk cotton tree. The roots disturbed the foundation by dislodging the stone of temple thus unbalancing the temple walls. Since, no mortar was used in placing the stones, the arch of temple caved in.

Few facts about the temple:

  • Built by King Jayavarman VII in the 12th century, the temple is built flat unlike other temple which are on an elevated ground. That means that the central sanctuary is raised higher than the enclosures surrounding it. But, here all enclosures are at the same level.
  • It housed a number of monks and was used as a Mahayana Buddhist monastery. It was known as Rajavihara or the  monastery of Kings when built in 1186.
  • The temple for most of us is commonly known as the jungle temple or the Tomb Raider temple after Anjelina Jolie's movie, Ta Prohm means ancestral Brahma. Ta is old or ancestral in Khmer. Prohm originates from Brahma, the Hindu god of creation.
  • The central sanctuary had an image of Prajnaparamita or Pragnya Paramita, the goddess of wisdom, Jayavarman dedicated the temple to his mother, Jayarajachudamani, as the goddess in central sanctuary was his mother's image.
  • A stele mentioning the year 1186 reveals that it was a 600 roomed monastery and housed around 80,000 people. It was home to not only the monks but also to priests, dancers and laborers to maintain it.
  • It also mentions the temple to be one of the very wealthy temples with lot of gold, jewels, gems, diamonds, pearls, silk etc. which it had amassed. In fact, excavation is still unearthing a lot of these objects. It also mentions the huge amount of daily offerings such as butter, milk, oil etc.
  • Built within an area of 700 meters by 1000 meters, there were 39 towers for 39 stages of nirvana which were connected by galleries. Most of the towers are in a state of repair today and need a lot of time and money.
  • The temple had five rectangular enclosures and had four entrances in each cardinal direction complying to "Sarvato bhadra" style of architecture, where the access to temple is from all four directions.
  • It was destroyed by Thai army in 1431 and after the fall of Khmer empire, like other temples in Angkor, Ta Prohm too was abandoned in the 15th century.
  • It was discovered in the 19th century and was decided to leave it as such, the structures being cradled by trees and its roots.
  • There were earlier 4 entrances or gopuras in the four cardinal directions but now only the east and west are operational.
  • Sandstone and laterite have been used in the construction of this temple. Sandstone is a medium to hard stone so carving is not that difficult. Moreover, it does not weather off easily. The stone was brought from nearby Kulen mountains and was the main stone used for building temples. The ongoing restoration work is still using the stone quarried from Kulen mountains.


Layout of temple:
Like most Khmer temples rectangular walls enclose the central sanctuary. There are five enclosures in contrast to most Khmer temples which have only three. There are entrances on all four cardinal directions. But the structures between the third and fifth enclosures which were mainly wooden structures collapsed.

There is a moat surrounding enclosure IV and another one between the third and fourth enclosure. Moats supplied water to the inhabitants of the city.

The third, second and the one surrounding the central tower are all galleried with wall on one side and a row of pillars on the other side.

The main temple has four rectangular wall enclosures, within a large area of 600 meters by 1000 meters.

west gate
The outermost enclosure through which we enter is 1000 meters by 650 meters. The gopura when built did not have faces on them. The famous Jayavarman faces were later added on the style of Prasat Bayon. All the four gopuras in four directions had such faces of Avilokiteshwar.

trail from east side
You may come across a group of people playing instruments on the side.

 At the end of path from the east entrance, a Naga balustrade is seen

broken part of naga balustrade
 also mythical guardian snow lions
snow lion
House of Fire or the fire shrine:
On the side of eastern gopura of fourth enclosure is the House of Fire or the fire shrine. The purpose of this existence is not certain. It either served as a resting place, Dharmasala for pilgrims with fire inside or had an eternal sacred flame for ceremonies.

The fire shrine is characterized by its typical column on windows. What purpose they served is unclear.


Fourth enclosure:
This enclosure is around is 250 meters x 220 meters. Entrance to temple is through this enclosure.

entrance to temple

guardian snow lion at entrance

entrance gopuram of enclosure IV, east

Tall double pillars welcome to inside of temple through a gopura.


east gopura of the fourth enclosure
The gopura on the east side has bas-reliefs on Buddha's life.

 bas relief on the gopura in the fourth enclosure on the east



a close-up
The above bas relief showing Bhumidevi, the earth goddess standing on a lotus.

lintel on the same gopura showing Prajnaparamita, the goddess of wisdom

gopura from the other side of enclosure IV
Avalokiteshwar missing from the bas relief on side of gopura
 meditating figures with probably apsaras on side
meditating ascetics
east gopura IV
a silk cotton tree on hall of dancers near the east gopura of enclosure IV

Hall of dancers:
One of the sites to see is the "Hall of dancers" between the fourth and third eastern gopuras. Restoration work was going on this temple so nothing much could be seen. The hall lies between the third and fourth eastern gopuras and is 20 meters x 30 meters.

Hall of dancers under renovation

 hall of dancers
The hall gets its name by the number of dancing Apsaras that decorate the hall. Some archaeologists feel that the King was fond of dancing and hence the name, but the subject is debatable as another view is of the opinion that it was a place for the monks to sit and meditate or a place for ritual dances.

Enclosure III:
This enclosure measures 112 meters x 108 meters. It contains within its enclosure two satellite temples, one in the north and other in the south, two libraries and other small shrines.

third enclosure gallery before and after restoration
east side south wing after restoration

These two enclosures have galleries. The roof of the galleries are supported by wall on one side and pillars on the other side.

part of gallery in third enclosure

The roof throughout the galleries in temple is made by corbelling large sandstone into an arch and does not use any mortar. One can now imagine that a little shifting of stones caused by the web of roots is enough to dismantle the whole roof.
It depends on the perception, one can also say that the roots and trees have held the stones in their places!

pillars in the gallery of third enclosure wall behind the hall of dancers

In this enclosure, rows of pillars face outwards with wall facing inside towards the central sanctuary.
Sandstone is mostly used in the construction of this enclosure.

sprawling roots of tree in enclosure III


tree supported on scaffolding
eastern gopura of enclosure III


bas-relief at entrance showing intense meditating figures
apsara and flowers around
collapsed third enclosure gallery on North East

Satellite temples:
There are two satellite temples on north and south of the third enclosure.

North satellite temple

Temple in North is dedicated to Jayakirtideva, the elder brother of Jayavarman VII

A similar temple to the south housed an image of Jayamangalartha Deva, the guru of the King.

North satellite temple

Pragnaparamita on lintel

Libraries:
On the south in enclosure III are two buildings standing side by side. They were the libraries. Libraries in fact have always been an integral part of any Khmer temple.




Second enclosure:
In the second enclosure as opposed to third enclosure, rows of pillars in two rows face towards central sanctuary with wall outside.  Laterite is mostly used in construction. It is a 50 meter square enclosure.

west gopura entrance to enclosure II


The second enclosure with wall on inner side and gallery with pillars facing towards central sanctuary.




huge silk cotton tree roots on the west gallery of second enclosure

gallery in second enclosure
roots snaking their way inside the gallery
view of one corner tower of central sanctuary from enclosure II
Trees engulfing the walls of south-west side gallery of second enclosure surrounding central sanctuary

a temple in south-west of enclosure II
gopura and surrounding gallery
There are walls which have evenly spaced holes probably suggesting that they were covered with metal or wood or stucco.

shrines in enclosure II
 a shrine
a 5-headed naga on side
work on lintel and pediment

Central Sanctuary:
Central enclosure comprises of a single 65 meters high single central tower surrounded by a gallery which has four towers in its four corners. The enclosure is 30 meters x 30 meters. The central tower along with the four towers represent the peaks of Mount Meru. There are four entrances in between each corner tower.

 entrance to central sanctuary through the gopura
gopura to central sanctuary
a gopura and central sanctuary
strangler fig tree almost engulfing the structure within the central sanctuary on west side
cordoned entrance to gallery in central sanctuary covered by strangler fig
inner wall adorned with apsaras

corner tower


Restoration work in progress in partnership of Archaeological Survey of India and APSARA (Authority for the Protection and Management of Angkor and the Region of Siem Reap). Many such areas have been cordoned off.

one of the four corner tower
a corner tower
gallery surrounding central sanctuary

a shrine inside the gallery
a bas relief lies on ground
gallery around central tower
a lintel from the above picture
an etched sculptor of Avalokiteshwar
beautiful image of Avalokiteshwar
a pediment lies on the ground, roots trying to enter the gallery around central sanctuary
a tree grows on top of gallery

gopura towards central sanctuary
 ornate pediment
tree around a gopura near the central tower
gopura of central sanctuary
an image missing
gopura


Laterite wall along with West fifth enclosure
Laterite wall along with West fifth enclosure

Ta Prohm was a location of Anjelina Jolie's movie, Tomb Raider and is commonly called as the Tomb Raider temple!