Thursday, December 17, 2020

Lawkananda Phayar, Bagan

Lawkananda Phayar is a golden pagoda on the banks of Irrawady river. The name Lawkananda or Lokananda which in sanskrit is Loka(world) + Ananda (joy) so meaning "joy of the world".


entrance to pagoda
History of pagoda:
The pagoda was built by King Anawrahta or Anuruddha, the founder of Bagan in 1059 to enshrine a replica of molar relic of Gautama Buddha which he recieved from Kandy in Sri Lanka. It is situated by the side of Irrawady river.
The pagoda has an octagonal base with three receding platforms on top of it.
The bell shaped stupa is decorated with flowers.  It was originally white but has been gilded recently.
The top has a hti which is adorned with jewels.
closer view of the floral design on dome of pagoda
a devotee praying
offerings by devotees
pole with hinta bird and statue of two men carrying a bell
across the river, a white structure on top of hill is Tant Kyi Taung
river view from pagoda
A new shrine to house the image of Buddha was under construction. A tv screen with image of Buddha serving as a temporary replacement to the shrine.
There are two inscribed stones pillars of the Bagan period at the back of eastern tazaung or shrine. It mentions the name " Lawka Nanta" on line 20.
temporary tattoo painting by a girl on side of pagoda
temporary tattoo using brush and acrylic colors
On the left side of pagoda are seen two identical pagodas, Ashe and Anauk Petleik pagoda. They are said to be built in the 11th century during the reign of King Anawrahta.

Saturday, October 10, 2020

Khaik Hmaw Wun Pagoda, Yangon

About 20 kms south of Yangon, in the town of Kyauktan lies Ye Le Phaya or pagoda or Khaik Hmaw Wun pagoda. So named as it lies in the middle of water.  The old Mon name of this pagoda was Khaik Hmaw Anawt but came to be known as Khaik Hmaw Wun pagoda after its location in Hmaw Wun creek, a tributary of Yangon river.

History and legend of pagoda:
Thanlyin or Syriam as it was known earlier has Myanmar's largest sea port called Thilawa. Major trade of the country is carried out from here.  About 15 minutes away from Thanlyin is a small town, Kyauktan.
The pagoda was built by King Bawgsena in the 3rd century BC to enshrine Buddha hair and sacred relics there. After that, it has been repaired and additions made by 18 successive  kings who ruled Myanamar.

entrance to pier
waiting for boat, the only way to reach the pagoda
big boat for foreigners
pagoda straight ahead
entrance of pagoda
at foot steps of entrance
Since the whole island is a temple complex, everyone is supposed to take off their footwear at entrance. You may leave it at the boat or may leave in a side corner where one pays the entrance fees.
guardians of pagoda
pagoda guardian
A chinthe guarding the pagoda.
Buddha image on top of main entrance
Pagoda is made of multi-tiered roof called pyatthat which are beautifully decorated. 

entrance to main shrine
flagstaff with hintha bird on top, ceremonial bells on the side
in front of entrance gate, richly decorated fine wood carvings

Buddha images on four corners,  manusiha below, Thagyamin on side
Manusiha is half human and half lion figure very commonly seen in buddhist pagodas. Thagyamin, is the highest ranking nat and is derived from Indra, the Hindu god of rain.
Thagyamin
Magnificent golden Buddha behind glass in an intricately decorated pagoda
close up of golden Ngasat Buddha image
another Buddha image behind glass
The glass makes it very difficutlt to get a clear picture
another Buddha in a corner
image of Buddha in a side room
It was a pretty sight to see small girls as nuns with alms bowl on their sides walking past the road

dried fish being sold in a shop
more fish
At the entrance, where passengers wait for the boats, there are small eateries.
Having a taste of palm fruit 
scooping out coconut meat
more coconut meat left inside

According to belief, 

  • despite floods the water of river never enters the pagoda.
  • the pagoda is never short of space and there is space for as many pilgrims or visitors who come there.

The pagoda has two special myths surrounding it, the water level will never rise to a level high enough to engulf the pagoda and that no matter how crowded it may be inside the pagoda, there is always room for visitors who come onto the island. At the pagoda, the visitors can set free the captive fish and feed the fish in the river.


Monday, September 28, 2020

Prasat Phnom Chiso, Cambodia

The ancient, 11th century temple of Chiso or Chisor is about 42 kms from Phnom Penh and is on 133 meter high mountain.
entrance to temple flanked by white elephants on either side
golden lions
ancestral shrine at the base of mountain

The west entrance near the car park has around to 390 steps
path lined with arjuna trees. Arjuna terminalia is used as a medicine throughout south-east Asia.
guardians outside entrance to temple complex


covered area for people to rest
walls covered with events in Buddha's life
small eateries
King Suryavaraman
Khmer empire was ruled by King Suryavarman in the 11th century. He practiced Brahmanism and constructed this temple. It was dedicated to Hindu divinities, Shiva and Vishnu.
Its original name was Sri Suryaparvata, Surya: sun, parvata: mountain, or the Mountain of the Sun.
 cannon ball or Sala tree
an image of Buddha under Bodhi tree
Mucilanda forms an umbrella over Buddha
the main entrance as was when the temple was built and active
The temple is east facing and there are steps the main entrance
main entrance facing east
 
Shiva dancing on pedimant, Indra on three-headed Airawat on top of Kaal on lintel

"Kaliya Mardan", young Krishna fighting the serpent Kaliya on west entrance
Kaliya was a very poisonous snake who used to live with his family in the waters of Yamuna. He spewed so much poison that the whole of river became poisonous and no one dared going near it. Krishna, on the pretext of entering the waters, threw a ball into it. He entered the waters, fought with the serpent and when the later asked for forgiveness, Krishna asked him to leave the waters and go away.
a monk poses for a picture, monastery on background
either a sema stone or base for a pillar
Shivyonis in a corner
 almost collapsing walls

the lacey work of stone almost resembles that of Banteay Srei


Shiva and Parvati(Uma) on Nandi on pediment
Still functioning temple of bricks and laterite
priest standing at entrance to temple sanctuary
Shivalinga in temple
The central Prasat or the sanctum santorum once had a Shivlinga called Suryavameshwara, ( Surya + Maheshwara) combining the name of King and Maheshwara or Shiva. 

image of Vishnu, Shiva-Uma, also image of King Suryavarman 
broken pieces of pediment
On either side of main shrine are two small identical shrines, vahnigriha or fire shrines. The purpose of these shrines was to provide travellers rest and fire to prepare food. These probably could have been libraries also.
North-east shrine
the lintel shows Krishna lifting mount Govardhana on his finger
According to Bhagwat and Puranas, Krishna saw people of Braj, near Mathura making arrangements to please Indra, the god of rain. He asked people not to do so by which Indra got angry and started heavy rains. The heavy down pour continued and people had no where to go.  Krishna lifted Mount Govardhana on his pinky finger to shelter the people.
Indra, later realised his mistake and asked for forgiveness.
shrine in south-east

Makar or gargoyle, acting as a spout for water to drain from temple sanctuary
reclining Vishnu under the canopy of Ananta, the celestial snake
a piece of pediment of reclining Vishnu
pediment on north-west

Vishnu on Garuda's shoulder
churning of the sea of milk
three strides of Vishnu

According to Rigveda, King Bali ruled the entire universe, he became very egoistic. Vishnu, in his dwarf form (Vamana) came to the king and asked him for land whihc he could cover in just three strides. Bali, laughingly agreed. Vishnu then showed his gigantic form. In one stride, he covered the whole universe, in second he took the earth and heaven. He had nowhere to put his third stride, the king asked Vamana to place his foot on his head. Vamana was pleased, he placed his foot over Bali's head and sent him to rule the netherworld or Patala which is different than hell or Naraka.


inscription stone
View from above
Two gopurams, Sen Nimol and Sen Roveang had to be crossed before climbing the steep stairs to temple. The gopurams were just like independent temples. Further ahead, Tonle' Om, a baray or lake was considered sacred. Brahmins used to bathe to wash away their sins. So, after taking a dip in baray, one would cross the two gopurams, climb up the stairs and enter the temple.
grass grown steps

entrance to temple seen from below, there are said to be 400 steps, 412
Sen Nimol:
Sen Nimol is now in ruins and heavily overgrown place.


view of temple above from Sen Nimol

Sen Roveang:
This part of temple is still intact and is now used as a Buddhist sanctuary.




inside the sanctuary
Incidents of Buddha's life are painted on walls

Large parts of the temple were badly destroyed as a result of bombing by US forces in 1973 during Vietnam War, the results of which are still visible.