One of the most beautiful temple no tourist can miss to notice is the Ananda temple. With its golden shikara, it stands out amongst the Bagan temples.
It was originally white in color, but in 1990, on the occassion of 900th anniversary of temple, only the shikhara was gilded.
entrance to covered zaungdan (walkway)
History of temple:
During Kyansittha's reign, eight monks one day came to seek alms. They told the king about a legendary place, Nanda Mula caves in Himalayas which was very beautiful. The King was impressed with the description and asked them if they could design and help built a temple exactly like that. The temple is said to be built in 1091.
There are different versions regarding the name of this temple.
- One version says that the temple was named Nandamu but over a period of time it came to be known as Ananda temple.
- Once the temple was completed, the King fearing that it may be replicated in future, executed all eight monks, builders and craftsmen. King Kyansittha was also known as "Sri Tribhuvanaditya Dhamma Yaza" meaning the King of Justice shining in the three worlds. He also placed his images at the feet of all Buddha images in the temple so it seems a little unacceptable that he would have executed those monks.
- Another version says, it is named after Ananda, who was the first cousin of Gautam Buddha and one of his favorite disciple.
- Ananda in Sanskrit means bliss, pleasure, happiness so it was named after this.
plan of temple
Architecture of temple:
The temple is a beautiful blend of Mon and Indian architecture never seen in Bagan temples. Unlike other temples in Bagan built earlier where the east side projects out, this temple is proportionately built having a cruciform layout.
The main part of temple has four standing huge Buddha images which have entrances of huge teak wood carved doors. Two circumbulatory corridor run around connecting the Buddha images. The corridors have plenty of Buddha images all over the wall.
The center part of temple is cube shaped with four standing massive Buddha statues. The shikhara topped by hti stands on this core. The four entrances are provided with teak wood carved doors in the interior.
One outstanding feature of the temple are the apertures high in the ceiling allowing light to fall directly on the faces of Buddha images. Also, on the both sides of Buddha are vents through which light falls on the images from both sides.
Inside the west portico on a pedestal are Buddha's footprints(Siripada) with offerings of cash
Mitey, one of the Deva statues on both sides of west entrance
Miteya, Dev statue, a close-up
Buddha images:
The four standing 31 feet or 9 1/2 meter tall Buddhas in four directions are made of solid teak wood covered with gold leaf. They have specific names.
Going from west in clockwise direction: Gautam Buddha (west), Kassapa (south), Konagamana (east), and Kakusanda( north).
Only images of Kakusanda and Kassapa are said to be original and date to 12th century when the temple was built. They both stand in dharamchakra mudra or setting in motion spreading Buddha'a teachings. Images of Konagamana and Gautam Buddha got destroyed in a fire and replaced in 17th century. They are much different from the original ones as they are in Mandalay style.
standing Gautama Buddha, west side
There are two statues near Buddha's feet. The one on his left side is Shin Arahan who was the Mon religious advisor to King Anawrahta and introduced him to Thervada Buddhism.
On the other side is King Kyansittha. They have been sculpted from a single piece of stone.
The image stands in abhaymudra, that is no fear. The present image is a replacement to the original one and is made of bronze.
circumambulatory corridor with Buddha images
There are windows in the corridors which let in natural light and air into the temple.
Buddha images in alcoves
a small statue in an alcove on the wall
Kassapa Buddha
Moving in clockwise direction, towards south is Kassapa who is the third Buddha. He too like Kakusandha has his hands in Dharamchakra mudra, symbolic of spreading the teachings which Buddha gave after attaining enlightenment.
The image has been carved from a single piece of pine.
Kassapa Buddha
Konagamana Buddha
Moving on to eastern cardinal point is Konagamana, the second Buddha. The present image is comparitively new as the original got burnt down. The face and features are very different from the old construction. The hands hang on the sides. The image is made of teak.
At the feet of Konagamana again is seated King Kyansittha.
In his right hand, is seen a sort of round nut with a stem that symbolises that the dhamma or teachings can cure all miseries.
Kakusandha Buddha
On the northern direction is the first Buddha, Kakusandha.
Huge carved teak doors separate the interior hall from the passages on four sides. The doors are said to be 900 years old.
A signage informs visitors to avoid touching their heads to the door. Devotees, as a sign of respect touch their head to the door.
Sand stone sculptures in corridor:
The corridor has plenty of stone work relating to the life of Gautam Buddha. Most of them are inside at lower level are behind a glass and the reflection of light makes it impossible to take a picture. There are said to be 80 such masterpieces. Each piece has been carved out of a single block of stone.
Prince Siddhartha sees a monk and he came to know about the ultimate aim of one's life.
Prince Siddharta summons his charioteer Channa, tells him to saddle his horse, Kanthaka for his departure. Channa is seen kneeling on his right. Kanthaka is seen on left side.
Sculpture depicts Prince Sidharta taking a last look at his wife, Yasodhara and sleeping son, Rahul before leaving the palace.
work on ceiling
chinthe or guardian lion
plaster moulding chinthe, side view
Glazed tiles:
There are around 554 glazed tiles all around the base of temple on outside. The terra-cotta tiles depict Jataka tales.
glazed tiles all around near the base of temple
Mara's army
The green color is still intact. T
he plaques have Mon writing under them describing each event
Mara's army
bells and arch ways
a baby elephant near the bell post
I was unable to find the purpose of this black stone
Manusiha (a combination of man and lion) on terrace
A plaster moulding of dwarpala, guardian at eastern entrance of temple
external side view
the shikhara and hti
The shikhara contains five niches on top of each other on all sides. Each niche contains an image of Buddha. On top of it is the hti, an ornament in the shape of umbrella. All around the shikhara are chinthes, Burmese mythological lions.
On four sides is a square box with a smaller version of shikhara on top of it.
shikhara with stones statues
stone statues at rooftop
All around the outer temple walls are around 1500 stone images carved from a single rock. Plaster moulding of flowers decorate the spire. Also, in the corner, below the chinthe is makara, the mythological animal.
tree whose bark is used to dye monk's robes
place for pouring water over images according to your day of birth
The temple suffered extensive damage in 1975 and 2016 earthquake. The Archaeological Survey of India is helping in restoration. A lot of time will be needed to regain its past glory.
The receding terraces have golden stupas on its corners.
The gilded stupa has concentric rings. There are kaal mukha(ogre heads) connected by a garland. On top of it is the bell shaped dome with a beautiful decorated belt, lotus buds on top of it. The hti or the umbrella was missing when I visited the place.
The base of stupa is decorated with Jataka terra-cotta plaques. Many of them have been damaged.
I was not able to find the reason for so many pairs of shoes in a corner of the shrine.
